Fuse blows on gs150
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Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Tue Apr 27, 2021 5:12 pm quote
I finally charged up the battery and put some fuel in, but when I turn the key to the second position the 10 amp fuse blows. Any ideas? I must have hooked up something wrong. But where to look?

Oh yes. It is a version 4 and I rewired it following the chart from scooterhelp.
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Tue Apr 27, 2021 8:19 pm quote
I think I will have to double check all my connections. I just noticed that when I print out the diagram on my black and white printer, the yellow wire lines are not visible.
Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1683
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Wed Apr 28, 2021 2:54 am quote
I like to remove everything connected to the circuit in the easiest spot possible. Then start hooking things back up one at a time and testing. With it being a fresh rewire and not being there to help you trace wires it's really hard to give any real troubleshooting help.

If you have a multimeter, disconnect the batteries positive lead make sure the wire is isolated and can't touch the frame. Turn the switch to the offending position and check continuity to ground. Start at the fuse that is blowing. Guessing you'll find a short to ground you need to track down.
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Wed Apr 28, 2021 10:56 am quote
Well that helps a bit. Unfortunately my multimeter needs a new 9v battery, which I don't have yet. I started checking out the horn, head light, and switch. I have the switch now taken apart after unhooking it, thinking I may not have re assembled it correctly. A bit of a can of worms.

So a short to ground would blow a fuse then? I am electrically challenged I am afraid, even though I've done a bit of electric guitar and house wiring. I even hand wound a pickup for a telecaster. I should be able to solve this (I hope).

I'm afraid I may have to open that flywheel area again to check my stator, which had some issues that I repaired (or not). I hate dealing with that flywheel pulling washer.
Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1683
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Wed Apr 28, 2021 1:31 pm quote
nickton wrote:
Well that helps a bit. Unfortunately my multimeter needs a new 9v battery, which I don't have yet. I started checking out the horn, head light, and switch. I have the switch now taken apart after unhooking it, thinking I may not have re assembled it correctly. A bit of a can of worms.

So a short to ground would blow a fuse then? I am electrically challenged I am afraid, even though I've done a bit of electric guitar and house wiring. I even hand wound a pickup for a telecaster. I should be able to solve this (I hope).

I'm afraid I may have to open that flywheel area again to check my stator, which had some issues that I repaired (or not). I hate dealing with that flywheel pulling washer.
A short to ground would blow a fuse. I wouldn't pull the flywheel until you've established its a problem.
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Wed Apr 28, 2021 1:59 pm quote
That certainly sounds like good advice. I'm wondering if I have the right selector switch now. The bike came with two of them, and I'm not sure which would be best to use on a version 4.



Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Wed Apr 28, 2021 5:10 pm quote
I tried the other selector switch (left one in picture) and the same thing happened: fuse blows at second position. I have a radio shack recitfier setup onto which I soldered the wires. Maybe solder heat did something to the rectifier. I didn't have any spade connectors to use.

I also took apart the tail light, which is a plastic bosatta version, and it seems good, with correct bulbs and everything.

On the HT coil there are two poles. Which one goes to the points and which is for the red wire? Or does it even matter? I am guessing it doesn't.

The short finding process doesn't quite make sense to me yet but I will have to learn.

Last edited by nickton on Thu Apr 29, 2021 7:38 pm; edited 1 time in total
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Thu Apr 29, 2021 9:50 am quote
I think I'll try disconnecting wires one at a time from the switch and see if a fuse blows. Looks like I may need quite a few more fuses unfortunately. Back to ebay.
Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1683
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Thu Apr 29, 2021 10:49 am quote
nickton wrote:
I think I'll try disconnecting wires one at a time from the switch and see if a fuse blows. Looks like I may need quite a few more fuses unfortunately. Back to ebay.
You could disconnect everything, then hook wires back up until the fuse blows. If you only have a single short, you'll only blow one fuse.
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Thu Apr 29, 2021 7:19 pm quote
Yea. I'm just considering where the best place to do that is. Probably at the switch then. Funny thing happened today though, after I removed the speedo light connection, which I admittedly had jerry rigged: No fuse blew. But wait--I plugged everything back up and turned the key and still no blown fuse-- but no lights either. I think the battery was drained, so I put it back on the trickle charger for a bit and will go back to it tomorrow.

Sure would be nice if it were just the speedo light, which according to the vs4 diagram is wired with one end to ground. I made a festoon lamp holder out of a salvaged fuse rig, soldered on one end to the speedo body for that ground and the other to the wire that connects to the switch.

I wonder what drained the battery too if that is indeed what happened.
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Thu Apr 29, 2021 7:58 pm quote
The battery was indeed drained. I recharched it, hooked it up and tried the switch again. Sure enough, the fuse burned out when I turned the key.

A short to ground must drain the battery too.
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Sat May 01, 2021 4:27 pm quote
I got around to testing wires today and found the culprit: I need a new horn. The red wire coming from the old one I had attempted to jerry rig after the connections had broken off was shorting out, so I replaced the two wires going to the horn for good measure, and have a new one ordered. But it doesn't come in till June.

After plugging in everything else there was no blown fuse, and the rear drive light actually works! The brake light worked briefly but stopped after I screwed the foot switch back in. What the...

At least there is some progress. I don't think I blew the brake bulb, but it is pretty loose in the old socket. Took apart the rear light twice, chipping off paint on one screw hole so there'd be a good ground...I'd like to get a whole new rear light unit again but am tapped out. Patience patience.
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Tue May 04, 2021 7:01 pm quote
I got batteries for my multi meter and did some continuity testing, then figured out why the brake light was not working. The old light bulb socket was not getting a good connection. I had to push down on it to get the light to glow. I tried all sorts of ways to get the curved copper contact piece to hold the bulb in tighter, but nothing ever worked, so I soldered it in, making it more difficult to change bulbs later, but at least it works now. I can't afford a new quality acorn assembly yet--which would be the best solution of course.

I now am sure every wire connection has continuity, but I can't get the head light to work. I wonder if the horn switch is good, and whether I need the horn connected to power on the head light. I tested the bulb and it is good too.

Now another problem raised it's ugly head: The foot brake never springs back enough to turn off the brake light. I am afraid to tighten the cable too much because I read a post where someone burned out the shoes.
Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1683
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Wed May 05, 2021 3:02 am quote
nickton wrote:
I got batteries for my multi meter and did some continuity testing, then figured out why the brake light was not working. The old light bulb socket was not getting a good connection. I had to push down on it to get the light to glow. I tried all sorts of ways to get the curved copper contact piece to hold the bulb in tighter, but nothing ever worked, so I soldered it in, making it more difficult to change bulbs later, but at least it works now. I can't afford a new quality acorn assembly yet--which would be the best solution of course.

I now am sure every wire connection has continuity, but I can't get the head light to work. I wonder if the horn switch is good, and whether I need the horn connected to power on the head light. I tested the bulb and it is good too.

Now another problem raised it's ugly head: The foot brake never springs back enough to turn off the brake light. I am afraid to tighten the cable too much because I read a post where someone burned out the shoes.
It looks like the horn is 6 volts DC according to this diagram, is that correct?

It also looks like switch position three supplies power to the horn and headlight and that a screw on the switch holds two wires one to headlight and one to horn. Is that correct?

If it is where did you disconnect the horn? Looks like you need that pink wire at the switch connected. Maybe hook it all back up except at the horn tape it off there?

Check the pink wire at the switch for the lights, does it have 6 volts DC? If it does what's on pins 3 and 2?

Is the white wire a ground? If it is do you have a goid ground at the headlight?

https://www.scooterhelp.com/electrics/pages/VS5.GS150.html
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Wed May 05, 2021 9:42 am quote
The horn is 6V,

Position 3 has two pinks, one going to the horn switch, the other to the horn itself.

I completely disconnected the horn and replaced the wires. All that's left now are the two wires one red and one pink. I will hook them up and tape off the ends, but I think they would need a connection to the horn, or possibly to each other with a temporary resistor (instead of horn), for testing in order to complete continuity. (???)..

I will check the pink wire for 6v.

The. white is ground, and there is a ground from coming from one end of the headlight driving festoon lite.

An interesting thing I noticed when checking continuity was when I verified it between switch and engine terminal, both yellow and red wires also had continuity to white ground. I assume that's normal, or is it?
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Wed May 05, 2021 10:06 am quote
I must say that the wiring for the headlamp is a bit confusing on the diagram, but I think I got it right. Perhaps the neutral should be on the headlight socket instead, and the blue going to the switch should be from the headlight too, instead of from the drive lamp.

As it is, I determined Ab and An to be headlight terminals, which connect via purple and red wires to the horn switch, which would mean head light is manually turned on and off there. The drive lamp goes on automatically from ignition switch, connecting to ground.

I am interested to check for voltage at the horn switch terminals now.
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Wed May 05, 2021 12:25 pm quote
okay. I just spent an hour or so at the bike and figurued out why the headlight does not fire up, but it is strange that I cannot seem to fix it. When hooking everything up and turning the horn switch to headlight on, nothing happens. But when I run a wire from the headlight ground to the horn ground terminal, the headlight comes on.

After perusing the diagram I figured out that ground to headlight comes throught the body all the way from engine terminal ground to stator plate. So for headlight to come on, it's ground goes from hornswitch to main switch, but from main switch to where? Maybe I need the speedo ground connected...

But I checked for ground continuity and got beeps all around, including from horn to headlamp. It seems that this would mean everything is properly grounded. But the light only goes on when I directly connect (again) headlight ground (which is in fact "drive light" ground). to horn switch ground.

Also: I disconnected horn switch terminals and cleaned the brass a bit with 500 grit sandpaper and needle files to insure good contacts, and even soldered in the wires in their screw terminals, but this did not help.

I think there is some reason the horn switch ground terminal is not getting a good connection in spite of my efforts, and even though there is continuity between it and the main switch terminal. I don't have the speedo hooked up now since I'm awaiting a new cable for it, but I will try connecting it's lamp , which goes to ground on one end, to the main switch terminal 8.
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Wed May 05, 2021 8:32 pm quote
Nope. That didn't do it.

I got the speedo cable in from Sooters Originale, and it's the wrong size. Nothing on it works for mine. Wrong top thread, wrong bottom thread, different sized inner cable. It is a CIP made in italy version that is nice quality, and listed as correct for gs150 vs1-5, but it has the smaller 1.8mm or 2mm inner and I have the 2.7 inner. I was hoping at least the outer would work but no such luck. This one must work for a clamshell speedo.



Does anyone know where to get the right one? I don't trust any vendors now since they all seem to say the inner should be the smaller 1.8mm size. I measured the bottom thread diameter at 11.5 and the top one at 10.75.
SIP has a pascoli version listed for the gs150 with diameters of 1102 and 1078, which I think is right, given the suspect accuracy of my harbor freight digital verneer calipers.

...the struggle continues.
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Thu May 06, 2021 10:02 pm quote
I know this speedo cable problem is digressing from the topic here, but since it also ends up in the headlight area, I am dealing with it now. Scooters Originale was very good at getting back to me about it. They say over the years someone may have changed to a 2.7mm inner since the 1.8mm. ones were no longer available. If so then someone installed a different speedo worm gear with it's housing at the wheel (I checked to make sure the cable fit the worm gear). But why then would the inner still work with my rectangular speedo? Baah... Probably more information than anyone needs. I will just have to deal with it somehow. I need an outer that will screw on to what I have, which I measured at 1150/1075 (probably a little off). As it is I can't connect onto the speedo at all because there is no more nut thingy.
Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1683
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Fri May 07, 2021 4:10 am quote
nickton wrote:
I know this speedo cable problem is digressing from the topic here, but since it also ends up in the headlight area, I am dealing with it now. Scooters Originale was very good at getting back to me about it. They say over the years someone may have changed to a 2.7mm inner since the 1.8mm. ones were no longer available. If so then someone installed a different speedo worm gear with it's housing at the wheel (I checked to make sure the cable fit the worm gear). But why then would the inner still work with my rectangular speedo? Baah... Probably more information than anyone needs. I will just have to deal with it somehow. I need an outer that will screw on to what I have, which I measured at 1150/1075 (probably a little off). As it is I can't connect onto the speedo at all because there is no more nut thingy.
I need to rebuild what I think is the OEM speedometer on my allstate, my plan is to get it fixed and working. That being said while looking for parts I came across an aftermarket speedometer, I don't plan on using it, it uses a larger cable. Then you have to change out the outer and gear at the wheel to match. Guessing your running into the same issue and parts aren't factory and trying to figure it out can be interesting.

Kind of like the next poor bastard who gets my Stella, SIP speedometer with the cable completely gone and replaced with an electric sensor and wire.
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Fri May 07, 2021 12:25 pm quote
Yea. At this point I'm going to take it out and see what I can do to hook it up again. I'm also dealing with a leaky petcock.

I'd like to get the speedo light to work too, but so far no luck there either.

Here's a picture of the rear tail light I soldered in too:


speedo hook up area.


soldered in brake bulb.


Italian plastic was better than indian aluminum. needs more paint.

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Fri May 07, 2021 3:46 pm quote
I tried to remove the cable and it got stuck so I pulled it back up and lo and behold: the upper nut was stuck in the duct tape I used to attach a wire to the cable so I could install a new one. Now I can attach to the speedo again and don't even need a new cable. Headache averted.

I took apart the whole speedo though and broke the festoon bulb, so I'll need another before any installing.
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Fri May 07, 2021 8:39 pm quote
I got the headlight to work, but it doesn't turn off at the switch. It has a ground problem I guess. I simply ran a wire from the horn switch ground, to its screw connection.

It turns off at certain ignition switch positions, but both horn switch positions just keep it on.

Now the brake light doesn't work again. Must've done something to disturb it's bulb connection when I removed it to take pictures. I knew it... back and forth back and forth...Lord let me have a new acorn light... I'm gonna try rewiring it again...

What I now don't uinderstand is why I get no pilot light power from the blue wire. Both horn wires are connected now too. Just waiting for the horn to come in so the ends are taped off.
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 116
Location: Vallejo, CA
Sun May 09, 2021 8:42 pm quote
Okay I'm done with the tail light. I added another ground wire to the other bolt for redundancy. I noticed part of the problem was my screw holes had somehow been worn to at least twice their size over the years, and when I painted I used some body filler, not knowing yet which holes were for tail light mounting. As a result the bolt sometimes doesn't contact the frame metal (if that makes sense), even though I use washers that should provide good contact to the chipped off paint area. This whole grounding thing with the lights is very touchy I'm learning.
Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1683
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Mon May 10, 2021 2:42 am quote
nickton wrote:
Okay I'm done with the tail light. I added another ground wire to the other bolt for redundancy. I noticed part of the problem was my screw holes had somehow been worn to at least twice their size over the years, and when I painted I used some body filler, not knowing yet which holes were for tail light mounting. As a result the bolt sometimes doesn't contact the frame metal (if that makes sense), even though I use washers that should provide good contact to the chipped off paint area. This whole grounding thing with the lights is very touchy I'm learning.
An external took lock washer does a good job of making contact.

https://www.google.com/search?q=external+tooth+lock+washer&oq=external+tooth+lock+washer&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l4.12028j1j8&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
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