OP
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Lurker
1970 VBB
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Location: Texas
 
Lurker
1970 VBB
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Hello and thanks in advance. I am trying to remove the throttle switch support as it has a broken support for the front brake. I have removed the throttle tube quite easily, but the switch support is another matter. It appears to be pressed onto a tube that is pressed into the head. I have tried a moderate amount of heat and a rubber mallet. Any ideas?
Throttle tube coming out
Throttle tube coming out
Switch support
Switch support
Switch support
Switch support
@charlieman22 avatar
UTC

Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Nedminder
@charlieman22 avatar
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Location: california
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I've only successfully removed by cutting a slit - then prying open so it will come off. It's pressed on. Heat is likely the right approach - with a puller of some sort.

But gotta ask - why are you trying to remove it?
If you plan to have it welded up - that can be done with it still on the headset.
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Molto Verboso
bare metal cafe racer
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Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
 
Molto Verboso
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bare metal cafe racer
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I had to cut mine off as well. Prick to get off. I was replacing with the MMW hydraulic brake version (as I'm guessing CM22 was) and broke it trying to remove with heat and percussive persuasion anyway.
@resistor avatar
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Member
2013 S150; 1961 VBB
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Posts: 47
Location: Dallas
 
Member
@resistor avatar
2013 S150; 1961 VBB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 47
Location: Dallas
UTC quote
I removed mine with a propane torch. After trying the "put it in the freezer" approach, and various solvents to remove, I used my propane torch that I normally use for plumbing projects. After a few minutes of heat (and being careful not to set the PB Blaster on fire), I was able to easily remove with a pair of channel locks.

You can occasionally find replacements on ebay, but they are Indian reproductions. So you might have to find another from a damaged headset.
OP
UTC

Lurker
1970 VBB
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Location: Texas
 
Lurker
1970 VBB
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Thanks for the ideas
charlieman22:
I am trying to remove it as it is broken. I do not have the broken piece to weld back on, plus no tig welder. I guess I could use that magical aluminum brazing rods I see on amazon and fill with some scrap..

resistor: I do not think I applied heat for a couple of minutes. I think I had the heat on max for 60 seconds, so maybe I should go a little longer. This is an Indian part on there anyway and I have found one on ebay - although these guys always say contact for fit and then cannot ever answer if it will fit....
OP
UTC

Lurker
1970 VBB
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Location: Texas
 
Lurker
1970 VBB
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Gave me the confidence
resistor wrote:
I removed mine with a propane torch. After trying the "put it in the freezer" approach, and various solvents to remove, I used my propane torch that I normally use for plumbing projects. After a few minutes of heat (and being careful not to set the PB Blaster on fire), I was able to easily remove with a pair of channel locks.

You can occasionally find replacements on ebay, but they are Indian reproductions. So you might have to find another from a damaged headset.
After knowing you were successful with this procedure, I heated it a bit longer until there was a good amount of smoke from the grease cooking. This was about 1 minute (I counted this time). Then I stick it in a vice and twisted back and forth while pulling the head up. Perfecto!
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@resistor avatar
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Member
2013 S150; 1961 VBB
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Posts: 47
Location: Dallas
 
Member
@resistor avatar
2013 S150; 1961 VBB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 47
Location: Dallas
UTC quote
Good to see you were succesful! Once you see it apart, it becomes more obvious that the press on fitting, combined with 50+ years of grease and gunk, make for a difficult separation. I forgot to mention that even though this fitting is aluminum, it doesn't cool very quickly, so you should wear thick gloves. Don't ask me how I know...
@charlieman22 avatar
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Nedminder
@charlieman22 avatar
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4106
Location: california
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Quote:
I am trying to remove it as it is broken. I do not have the broken piece to weld back on, plus no tig welder. I guess I could use that magical aluminum brazing rods I see on amazon and fill with some scrap..
I probably wasn't as clear as I could have been.
The fix for something like that is not to weld the broken piece back on.
Instead - a welder could/would just build up the broken area with new materials - and then you or he would grind it back to the proper shape.
That part can be done by hand with a rotary tool.
It sounds daunting - but its actually a pretty common repair for all sorts of motor bikes that have a break there.

Good info about removal from Resistor tho!
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