Fri May 13, 2022 10:23 am

Ossessionato
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 3539

 
Ossessionato
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 3539

Fri May 13, 2022 10:23 am linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Finished the panel dent too. General shape is ok enough. Gave it a quick thin coat of primer to see how the filling was looking and this is what happened. Looks like a world map. Why is this? Seems smooth. Been sanded with 180 grit and appears like a skating rink to me.

Finer paper and plenty more coats of primer?
A primer surfacer must be painted over body filler to prevent that from happening!
Fri May 13, 2022 2:28 pm

Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX172 Quattrini and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 3227
Location: London UK
 
Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX172 Quattrini and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 3227
Location: London UK
Fri May 13, 2022 2:28 pm linkquote
chandlerman wrote:
You probably want to re-skim it, as thinly as you can, then sand it with 320 before you prime again. Final prep sanding with 600 grit

What kind of block are you using when you sand? I use a 1/4" thin foam block on rounded panels.

Also, are you using guide coat to help you find low spots?

Even with all that, I still miss spots...
Sanding wet by hand. I'll try it again. Refill, 320 grit, spray it again. This was my guide coat wanted to see if it covered ok and it didn't.

WDC , using this primer. Is this a surfacer too?
https://www.optimasolution.co.uk/aerosols-and-coatings/primer/high-build-primer/
Fri May 13, 2022 5:28 pm

Addicted
Joined: 29 Nov 2020
Posts: 826
Location: Los Angeles
 
Addicted
Joined: 29 Nov 2020
Posts: 826
Location: Los Angeles
Fri May 13, 2022 5:28 pm linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Looks great, Jack!

It is.

But if you can source glaze (aka glaze putty/aka glaze compound) you'll have a much easier job of it. Keep in mind that your high gloss clear-coat will highlight every, little, thing.

Glaze is a little spendy! But in terms of time and effort saved it's worth it, vs multiple coats of sandable primer/surfacer, sanding, re-coating.

And btw, sorry if I came off as an arse in my earlier reply...
"I'll use a filler of my choosing."

This a decent part of my day-job. I've got quite a few fillers to choose from here, depending on what I can get away with in the shortest time possible.

Technique here at 3:00. Adheres to bare metal as well.

Fri May 13, 2022 6:00 pm

Addicted
PX 200
Joined: 25 May 2016
Posts: 672

 
Addicted
PX 200
Joined: 25 May 2016
Posts: 672

Fri May 13, 2022 6:00 pm linkquote
The solvent is getting absorbed differently by the different surfaces. The bare metal vs filler/primer vs existing paint, hence the world map.

This will happen with epoxy primer as well, but a filler primer would level out the finish for a base colour coat to sit perfectly on.

If you aim for a cleaner finish, like CM mentioned you'll aim to finish on at least 320 grit… if not you'll always have scratch marks
Fri May 13, 2022 6:52 pm

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 08 Stella (for now)
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 5656
Location: Nashville
 
Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 08 Stella (for now)
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 5656
Location: Nashville
Fri May 13, 2022 6:52 pm linkquote
I use 320 to get the filler smooth, then 600 after high-build primer.

And if you really want the clear coat to shine, you'll want to do a wet sand with 600 before you lay down the final coat. It'll be a royal PITA, but the difference will be significant.

When I fixed my GL, the parts I'd sanded with 600 grit before clearcoat were so much glossier than the rest that I had to go back and do the other panels because they looked dull--and I'd though they looked shiny before the comparison!
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