Sat Oct 02, 2021 10:31 pm

Jet Eye Master
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Jet Eye Master
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Sat Oct 02, 2021 10:31 pm linkquote
Not sure whats wrong with the idle. Mixture screw maybe out too far. The 55/100 will usually end up under 2 turns. Not ticking over is often too lean though.
When held at WOT it sounded rich. When you tried the 128 this was worse?
Guess you still have the stock filter on?
Sun Oct 03, 2021 12:49 am

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Sun Oct 03, 2021 12:49 am linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Not sure whats wrong with the idle. Mixture screw maybe out too far. The 55/100 will usually end up under 2 turns. Not ticking over is often too lean though.
When held at WOT it sounded rich. When you tried the 128 this was worse?
Guess you still have the stock filter on?
I have the mixture screw 2.5 turns. I'll bring it in half a turn and see how it sounds. Like I mentioned earlier, I have the starter motor in the way so it's a pain.

The 128 was definitely worse. I do have a 52/100. Would it be worth a shot?

And yes I still have the stock filter. I want to get it dialed in the best I can and then check out either vortex or T5 filter. Do you recommend one over the other? They do not have either in Japan so I have to order of Ebay to shave on shipping. There is also a 3d printed vortex that someone prints out on here which is less than $10 that maybe worth trying out.
Sun Oct 03, 2021 1:16 am

Jet Eye Master
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Jet Eye Master
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Sun Oct 03, 2021 1:16 am linkquote
Ok now the idle makes sense. Have to adjust the mixture screw when any change is done. Everything affects it.
I have a starter motor on my 200. Cut the end of the mixture screw off, about 8mm. And cut a screwdriver slot in the now shortened mixture screw. Really easy to adjust after that.

I have a Pinasco vortex on my 200. The 3d printed one is probably similar in performance. If you just remove your filter and ride with nothing until the vortex arrives it will be similar jetting. They barely filter out anything anyway. Put the 128 in with no filter.
Sun Oct 03, 2021 1:24 am

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Sun Oct 03, 2021 1:24 am linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Ok now the idle makes sense. Have to adjust the mixture screw when any change is done. Everything affects it.
I have a starter motor on my 200. Cut the end of the mixture screw off, about 8mm. And cut a screwdriver slot in the now shortened mixture screw. Really easy to adjust after that.

I have a Pinasco vortex on my 200. The 3d printed one is probably similar in performance. If you just remove your filter and ride with nothing until the vortex arrives it will be similar jetting. They barely filter out anything anyway. Put the 128 in with no filter.
I seen the mod to the mixture screw, but I still don't see how a screw driver can get into it. I use a 7mm bendable ratchet wrench, but that barley fits between the starter motor and the screw.
Sun Oct 03, 2021 2:06 am

Jet Eye Master
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Sun Oct 03, 2021 2:06 am linkquote
It fits well enough if you shorten the screw
Wed Oct 06, 2021 7:19 pm

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Wed Oct 06, 2021 7:19 pm linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
It fits well enough if you shorten the screw
So I adjusted the air mixture. It's at about 1 to 1.5 turns out right now and I feel it can come in some more. I didn't take any audio this time around, but 2nd gear WOT still sounds a little rich. maybe drop down to 52/100?

I still haven't tried it with the air filter off, but I did order the 3D printed venturi and it should come some time next week. I know you said to try 128 with the filter off, but with the venturi I should go larger correct? Maybe start with a 138 MJ?
Fri Oct 08, 2021 8:48 pm

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Fri Oct 08, 2021 8:48 pm linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
It fits well enough if you shorten the screw
For reference, I tried the 52/100.
https://soundcloud.com/phangtonpower/my-recording-31?si=f87059fae172452c903ef52c9f300bce
Fri Oct 08, 2021 9:03 pm

Jet Eye Master
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Fri Oct 08, 2021 9:03 pm linkquote
Still rich on the main jet and rich on the pilot even with the 52/100. If smaller on either it could go lean when really hot. Can't do anything more until that filter is off.
Up the main to 128 and ride with no filter. Just go round the block and you'll see what I'm talking about.
Sun Oct 10, 2021 7:39 am

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Sun Oct 10, 2021 7:39 am linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Still rich on the main jet and rich on the pilot even with the 52/100. If smaller on either it could go lean when really hot. Can't do anything more until that filter is off.
Up the main to 128 and ride with no filter. Just go round the block and you'll see what I'm talking about.
I tried it with the filter off today and slipped the 55/100 back in. Wow! It feels a lot better. I still think the 55/100 is a little rich? I have the mixture screw and idle screw in by a lot.
https://soundcloud.com/phangtonpower/my-recording-41?si=ee0edb9255ab4a90b90a12e478d22cf3
Mon Oct 11, 2021 3:08 am

Jet Eye Master
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Mon Oct 11, 2021 3:08 am linkquote
Sounds better. Main jet is still too big. What size is it? 128? Could drop straight to 122 if it is.
Mon Oct 11, 2021 8:39 pm

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Mon Oct 11, 2021 8:39 pm linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Sounds better. Main jet is still too big. What size is it? 128? Could drop straight to 122 if it is.
I won't have time before the weekend to stick a 122 on. The bell mouth should come by then. Should I try the 122 with it? Most reading I have done has gone up a lot on the main when using one.

Edit: I ended up having sometime today to try out the 122 MJ. The mix and idle screws are almost all the way in.

https://soundcloud.com/phangtonpower/carb-5?si=78352f3327c44d5db895a539ef4917eb

When I got home, the bell mouth had come. I threw it on and gave a quick test. It was rush hour, so I didn't really have time. One issue is that the idle screw holds it in place. With it all the way in, it now idles around 1000 to 900 rpm.

Last edited by Phangtonpower on Tue Oct 12, 2021 12:36 am; edited 1 time in total
Mon Oct 11, 2021 11:48 pm

Jet Eye Master
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Mon Oct 11, 2021 11:48 pm linkquote
I would start the bell mouth on 135. And do WOT runs in 2nd, reducing a jet at a time until it runs clean and swiftly to max rpm (8500rpm?). It may well end up at 122 but at least there will be no damage to anything.
Fri Oct 15, 2021 7:46 pm

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Fri Oct 15, 2021 7:46 pm linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
I would start the bell mouth on 135. And do WOT runs in 2nd, reducing a jet at a time until it runs clean and swiftly to max rpm (8500rpm?). It may well end up at 122 but at least there will be no damage to anything.
Ok so started with a 135, I felt it was a little rich, but it felt better than when I had the 128 and air filter. Went down to a 132 and finally settled with a 130. I feel it might be slightly rich, but so far I'm happy with how it's going. Max RPM with the polini is at about 7500.

https://soundcloud.com/phangtonpower/carb-6?si=3c0c5a038bfe40808f9e85b00f7976d2
Sun Oct 24, 2021 10:12 pm

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Sun Oct 24, 2021 10:12 pm linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
I would start the bell mouth on 135. And do WOT runs in 2nd, reducing a jet at a time until it runs clean and swiftly to max rpm (8500rpm?). It may well end up at 122 but at least there will be no damage to anything.
So I'm still having issues with the bike stalling after long runs. It feels great, but I'm thinking if I should drop the pilot jet. I have the idle screw and and air mixture screw almost all the way in.
Mon Oct 25, 2021 12:40 am

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Mon Oct 25, 2021 12:40 am linkquote
Are you finished with the main jet? Where did it end up?

On this carb, fine tuning the pilot before the main jet is a waste of time.

Leave the mix screw at never less than 1.5 turns, or it doesn't work and you can't tell what it needs.
Mon Oct 25, 2021 7:50 am

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Mon Oct 25, 2021 7:50 am linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Are you finished with the main jet? Where did it end up?

On this carb, fine tuning the pilot before the main jet is a waste of time.

Leave the mix screw at never less than 1.5 turns, or it doesn't work and you can't tell what it needs.
I thought I had mentioned that my mix screw was pretty far in with the 55/100. One turn out for the mix screw and with the idle all the way in drops to about 900rpm.

Anyway settled with a 130 MJ audio above. The 135 and 132 felt a little rich. I went down to 127, but there wasn't much difference with the 130, so I went back.
Mon Oct 25, 2021 8:40 am

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Mon Oct 25, 2021 8:40 am linkquote
55/100 definitely too rich then. Think you said you have a 52/100, how is it with that?
Tue Oct 26, 2021 12:29 am

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Tue Oct 26, 2021 12:29 am linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
55/100 definitely too rich then. Think you said you have a 52/100, how is it with that?
I had time to try the 52/100. I kept the MJ at 130. Way too rich. The air mixture screw is turned out 1.5 turns out and the idle screw all the way in, it idles at about 1200rpm. With the idle screwed all the way in, maybe I need to go back to the 50/100?

https://soundcloud.com/phangtonpower/carb?si=f896148501914deda02d6432752f52d6
Tue Oct 26, 2021 7:00 am

Jet Eye Master
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Tue Oct 26, 2021 7:00 am linkquote
Are you sure about the 130MJ. It does seem a little big. I have had similar end up on 125.

Try it with a 125MJ but don't do any WOT runs. Just see how it is at low rpm with the 52/100 pilot.
Sat Oct 30, 2021 1:24 am

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Sat Oct 30, 2021 1:24 am linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Are you sure about the 130MJ. It does seem a little big. I have had similar end up on 125.

Try it with a 125MJ but don't do any WOT runs. Just see how it is at low rpm with the 52/100 pilot.
I wasn't sure about the 130MJ. I'm not sure about any of this. I just kept it on because I didn't have much time and wanted to try the 52/100. I really do appreciate you holding my hand through out all this.

So today I had time to try a 125MJ. It feels better, but it may still be rich. I left the air mixture at 1 1/2 turns out. I was able to have a little more adjustability with the idle screw, but it's probably a little over a 1/4 turn out. The flat spot/stutter that feels like fuel starvation at about 4000rpm is a lot more noticeable with these settings. That wasn't so bad with the 130MJ and 55/100 pilot jet.
Sun Oct 31, 2021 11:14 am

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Sun Oct 31, 2021 11:14 am linkquote
Ok, first job is to stabilise this 4000 rpm issue. Keep going bigger on the main jet unti 4000 rpm is perfect. If bigger doesn't make it better, the 4000 rpm is lean and needs a smaller MJ. Running the AC120 and BE4 these are already rich enough.
Mon Nov 01, 2021 7:05 am

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Mon Nov 01, 2021 7:05 am linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Ok, first job is to stabilise this 4000 rpm issue. Keep going bigger on the main jet unti 4000 rpm is perfect. If bigger doesn't make it better, the 4000 rpm is lean and needs a smaller MJ. Running the AC120 and BE4 these are already rich enough.
It was still there when I had the 130MJ in it, but it was less noticeable. Maybe because it was rich through out the rave range? I'll try a 132MJ this weekend.

Mean while I stuck a 122MJ in it last weekend. Definitely a lot better, but it does run about 20F hotter compared to the 125 and up. Cruising between 60 and 70km, it would go up to about 260F. On a some what long incline it reached 280F going between 50 and 60km. I haven't done WOT yet as you said. What should I be looking for before I do WOT?

Also earlier on you mentioned that some motors run leaner. Could this because of an underlying issue? Is there anything I should check?
Mon Nov 01, 2021 11:34 pm

Jet Eye Master
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Mon Nov 01, 2021 11:34 pm linkquote
Sounds like 130MJ is way over. Do some new plug WOT plug chops in 2nd gear to check. Doing WOT acceleration tests will help too, from a start point to a lamp post. The correct jetting will be the fastest but this is not as easy when compared to a plug chop.

Squish clearance and timing affect the temperature too. Never go over 300F and it's likely to be fine (very weak jetting seizes before the CHT even gets hot).
Wed Nov 03, 2021 3:05 am

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Wed Nov 03, 2021 3:05 am linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Sounds like 130MJ is way over. Do some new plug WOT plug chops in 2nd gear to check. Doing WOT acceleration tests will help too, from a start point to a lamp post. The correct jetting will be the fastest but this is not as easy when compared to a plug chop.

Squish clearance and timing affect the temperature too. Never go over 300F and it's likely to be fine (very weak jetting seizes before the CHT even gets hot).
Couple questions. If I were to do a second gear plug chop, how long would I keep it at WOT before shutting the bike off? I trying think of places where I would have space to do this.

When you say not to go above 300f, is that at the speeds I'm cruising at (60-70kph), or for any speed? I understand that the CHT is slower than what it actually can be, but through reading I thought 375F is when things start to get sketchy?
Wed Nov 03, 2021 2:30 pm

Jet Eye Master
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Wed Nov 03, 2021 2:30 pm linkquote
How hot you can run a 2 stroke is virtually written on the side of your 2 stroke oil bottle. CHT about 50% higher than the flash point.
A max CHT of about 300F is the most powerful for an air cooled head.

Hold 2nd gear for 30seconds and switch off at WOT.
Thu Nov 04, 2021 6:17 pm

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Thu Nov 04, 2021 6:17 pm linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
How hot you can run a 2 stroke is virtually written on the side of your 2 stroke oil bottle. CHT about 50% higher than the flash point.
A max CHT of about 300F is the most powerful for an air cooled head.

Hold 2nd gear for 30seconds and switch off at WOT.
Not on this can. I admit my Japanese skills aren't that great, but I know what 148c looks like.


300F seems a little low since I've read others have gone up to 400f, which does seem scary, and because I'm reaching 280F going up hills going between 50 and 60 km. Not much head room.





Last edited by Phangtonpower on Thu Nov 04, 2021 7:31 pm; edited 2 times in total
Thu Nov 04, 2021 7:29 pm

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Thu Nov 04, 2021 7:29 pm linkquote
Greetings:

I don't have a CHT gauge on either of my Vespas, but I can say for sure that 300 F. is pretty conservative for a maximal temperature on an air-cooled engine. The pic is from my 2001 Honda SA50 with a Polini "Contesta" iron 72cc cylinder. It routinely runs in the mid-300s and on long stretches at WOT has been known to top 400. Never once has it seized or stuttered. Same goes for my experience with Polini Corsa and Fabrizi cylinders - both aluminum bores. It once had a Nicasil 78cc bore that occasionally nudged 500F. again without seizing, although it did cause a certain degree of "puckering" and I chickened out and backed off.



Thu Nov 04, 2021 7:32 pm

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Thu Nov 04, 2021 7:32 pm linkquote
Wheelman-111 wrote:
Greetings:

I don't have a CHT gauge on either of my Vespas, but I can say for sure that 300 F. is pretty conservative for a maximal temperature on an air-cooled engine. The pic is from my 2001 Honda SA50 with a Polini "Contesta" iron 72cc cylinder. It routinely runs in the mid-300s and on long stretches at WOT has been known to top 400. Never once has it seized or stuttered. Same goes for my experience with Polini Corsa and Fabrizi cylinders - both aluminum bores. It once had a Nicasil 78cc bore that occasionally nudged 500F. again without seizing, although it did cause a certain degree of "puckering" and I chickened out and backed off.
All so confusing.
Thu Nov 04, 2021 11:20 pm

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Thu Nov 04, 2021 11:20 pm linkquote
Ok here's what I didn't say; 300F is not the maximum temperature before seize up. This is much higher.

On your Japanese oil, which is very good btw, 148C gives seize risk at 430F , might go 500F or more before actual seize up. However, even if it doesn't try to kill you the heat will damage/wear components way quicker than desirable.

The 300F is where the most power is. The hotter 2 strokes get the slower they go. 4 strokes are pretty much the opposite.
Sat Nov 13, 2021 7:14 pm

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Sat Nov 13, 2021 7:14 pm linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Ok here's what I didn't say; 300F is not the maximum temperature before seize up. This is much higher.

On your Japanese oil, which is very good btw, 148C gives seize risk at 430F , might go 500F or more before actual seize up. However, even if it doesn't try to kill you the heat will damage/wear components way quicker than desirable.

The 300F is where the most power is. The hotter 2 strokes get the slower they go. 4 strokes are pretty much the opposite.
I finally found a place that I Maybe able to do some WOT plug chops. The weather was pretty shitty recently, so didn't have time until this morning. Drove an hour away stuck a new plug in and went off doing my WOT. About 10 seconds in the engine just stops accelerating. Great! Pulled over and discovered the throttle rod disconnected from the oil metering device. Stuck it back on. I only brought one plug, so decided to go home. Happened again at about 3/4 throttle. Had to go home 1/4 throttle.

Got home and took the carb off to bend the rod a little to fit better. Discovered that my base gasket was torn I wonder if this is why I was running lean?

I'm also not sure if the gasket I got was for autolube or premix. Japan doesn't like to label things. Guess I should have asked. The gasket I got looks like the gasket on sip for pre mix.
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/gasket-carburettor-casing-engine_92201000?q=carburetor%20gasket%20casing

If the gasket is the reason for my settings running lean, should I start over with my jetting?


Base gasket

Sun Nov 14, 2021 2:17 am

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Sun Nov 14, 2021 2:17 am linkquote
Unfortunate events but at least you found 2 issues. If the carb gasket wasn't in line it could have been letting air in or oil out but looks like it was lined up fine.

Plug chops still to do then. Always a good idea to do a few times and once at mid throttle too, if you feel the jetting is good enough and happy to spend 3 plugs.

What was the cruising temperature on the ride?
Sun Nov 14, 2021 2:29 am

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Location: Veria, Greece
Sun Nov 14, 2021 2:48 am

Hooked
Owned Vespa Rally 200, V90, Li150 series II...now a PX200
Joined: 26 Jun 2018
Posts: 191
Location: Fukui, Japan From San Diego
 
Hooked
Owned Vespa Rally 200, V90, Li150 series II...now a PX200
Joined: 26 Jun 2018
Posts: 191
Location: Fukui, Japan From San Diego
Sun Nov 14, 2021 2:48 am linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Unfortunate events but at least you found 2 issues. If the carb gasket wasn't in line it could have been letting air in or oil out but looks like it was lined up fine.

Plug chops still to do then. Always a good idea to do a few times and once at mid throttle too, if you feel the jetting is good enough and happy to spend 3 plugs.

What was the cruising temperature on the ride?
I'm happy with the jetting, but 122MJ seems really small to me. I really don't do much WOT though. When I took the old plug out today it was a nice chocolate color. It was running between 240 and 250F cruising at 60km.
I may have to wait until spring to do plug chops. It's getting cold and snow is supposed to hit hard this year. I still try to go for rides at least once a week though if the roads are clear.
Also any tips on the throttle rod? I have no idea why it's popping out. I had no issues doing WOT runs before.

Last edited by Phangtonpower on Sun Nov 14, 2021 2:53 am; edited 1 time in total
Sun Nov 14, 2021 2:51 am

Hooked
Owned Vespa Rally 200, V90, Li150 series II...now a PX200
Joined: 26 Jun 2018
Posts: 191
Location: Fukui, Japan From San Diego
 
Hooked
Owned Vespa Rally 200, V90, Li150 series II...now a PX200
Joined: 26 Jun 2018
Posts: 191
Location: Fukui, Japan From San Diego
Sun Nov 14, 2021 2:51 am linkquote
Thanks for the pic! I found this picture snooping around. Looks like the one I had was for oil injection as it doesn't cover the hole.

Sun Nov 14, 2021 2:55 am

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, Stella 150, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3476
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, Stella 150, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3476
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun Nov 14, 2021 2:55 am linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Ok here's what I didn't say; 300F is not the maximum temperature before seize up. This is much higher.

On your Japanese oil, which is very good btw, 148C gives seize risk at 430F , might go 500F or more before actual seize up. However, even if it doesn't try to kill you the heat will damage/wear components way quicker than desirable.

The 300F is where the most power is. The hotter 2 strokes get the slower they go. 4 strokes are pretty much the opposite.
Well this is useful information! Here I am worrying about seizing when my temps peak up to 375F. Motul 710 flash point 308F. Or about 100f of leeway to catastrophe (460f)
Wed Nov 17, 2021 11:24 pm

Hooked
Owned Vespa Rally 200, V90, Li150 series II...now a PX200
Joined: 26 Jun 2018
Posts: 191
Location: Fukui, Japan From San Diego
 
Hooked
Owned Vespa Rally 200, V90, Li150 series II...now a PX200
Joined: 26 Jun 2018
Posts: 191
Location: Fukui, Japan From San Diego
Wed Nov 17, 2021 11:24 pm linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Unfortunate events but at least you found 2 issues. If the carb gasket wasn't in line it could have been letting air in or oil out but looks like it was lined up fine.

Plug chops still to do then. Always a good idea to do a few times and once at mid throttle too, if you feel the jetting is good enough and happy to spend 3 plugs.

What was the cruising temperature on the ride?
Installed a new throttle rod and gasket. Definitely why it was running lean. I have no idea why the gasket was torn like that. I installed it so knew it was fine when I put it on and don't think my mechanic would have done it. There was no gasket residue any where, so it didn't tear out when I removed the carb.

Didn't really have a chance to give it a good run, but did put the 50/100 pilot back in. The idol is still pretty low between 900-1100 rpm with the idol screw all the way in and the air mix screw at about 1 1/2 turns out. Still running a 122 MJ.

Tomorrow I'm going to put the be5 back in as it feels really rich 1/4th throttle and work my way down again with main jets.
Thu Nov 18, 2021 7:24 am

Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 3050
Location: London UK
 
Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 3050
Location: London UK
Thu Nov 18, 2021 7:24 am linkquote
Try something else first. Keep the AC120/BE4/122MJ but try a 55/160 pilot and see if there are signs of being lean. Work at it from the other way.
Thu Nov 18, 2021 5:52 pm

Hooked
Owned Vespa Rally 200, V90, Li150 series II...now a PX200
Joined: 26 Jun 2018
Posts: 191
Location: Fukui, Japan From San Diego
 
Hooked
Owned Vespa Rally 200, V90, Li150 series II...now a PX200
Joined: 26 Jun 2018
Posts: 191
Location: Fukui, Japan From San Diego
Thu Nov 18, 2021 5:52 pm linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Try something else first. Keep the AC120/BE4/122MJ but try a 55/160 pilot and see if there are signs of being lean. Work at it from the other way.
I didn't see this until now. I tried going back to the BE5. Went to kick it over, but now the kick start is stuck in the down position.
Looks like I may have to open it up? Sucks I don't have a garage to work on it and it's getting cold

Edit...Few, it just needs a new kickstart. Thank god for the in the way electric start. I'll give the 55/160 piolet a try. Besides it hanging up and having it turned in too much, what other things do I need to listen/look for if it's running lean.

Also I have a set 0f 45-55/100 pilot jets. Would starting with a 45/100 be better than a 55/160 even though it would be richer?
Fri Nov 19, 2021 12:23 pm

Enthusiast
2005 Star Dlx - VMC 187ccm
Joined: 19 Nov 2019
Posts: 56
Location: Venezuela
 
Enthusiast
2005 Star Dlx - VMC 187ccm
Joined: 19 Nov 2019
Posts: 56
Location: Venezuela
Fri Nov 19, 2021 12:23 pm linkquote
Hello friends. Im having a weird issue. Im feeling my setup its on the rich side. On normal city driving i never get over 270*F in the CHT Gauge. Yesterday i did a ride of 100km, and being on 1/4 throttle, 4th gear, and 6000rpm the temperature start to raise over 320*F. So, i shift down to 3rd, same at 1/4 throtle and 6000rpm and the temperature starts to go down.

Why , at the same RPM range, same throttle open but different gear gave me that temp condition ?

Thanks in advance
Fri Nov 19, 2021 11:18 pm

Hooked
Owned Vespa Rally 200, V90, Li150 series II...now a PX200
Joined: 26 Jun 2018
Posts: 191
Location: Fukui, Japan From San Diego
 
Hooked
Owned Vespa Rally 200, V90, Li150 series II...now a PX200
Joined: 26 Jun 2018
Posts: 191
Location: Fukui, Japan From San Diego
Fri Nov 19, 2021 11:18 pm linkquote
Jack221 wrote:
Try something else first. Keep the AC120/BE4/122MJ but try a 55/160 pilot and see if there are signs of being lean. Work at it from the other way.
Ok tried the 55/160. Can't comment on it being lean or not, but I was able to adjust my idle with a lot more room. Not completely tuned, but I have the mixer at I think at a bout 1 3/4 out and can probably go a little richer.

In normal riding, it is definitely running a lot cooler maybe by 20F less, but that is probably because of the carb gasket fixed. It doesn't feel as peppy as before, but it doesn't feel as boggy as it did with the 52/100 pilot jet.
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