Sat May 22, 2021 6:05 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Sat May 22, 2021 6:05 pm linkquote
I was trying to start it and after many kicks something happened to the clutch I guess. I am no mechanic and this makes no sense to me, but now it won't get out of gear and has no neutral. It was fine before. Any ideas? Do I need a new clutch? I probably should take out the engine again and try to rebuild it. Wish I'd never gotten it now.
Sat May 22, 2021 7:12 pm

Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 86 & 96 Elite 80s, 2015 HD Road Glide Special, 2011 Ural Tourist
Joined: 18 Jan 2012
Posts: 3995
Location: Oceanside, CA
 
Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 86 & 96 Elite 80s, 2015 HD Road Glide Special, 2011 Ural Tourist
Joined: 18 Jan 2012
Posts: 3995
Location: Oceanside, CA
Sat May 22, 2021 7:12 pm linkquote
For starters, Iíd look down at the batwing gear where the gear cables get secured. Thereís 5 little notches. If your shift tube is in neutral, it should be in the second notch. If its not there, try to get it to that second notch.

After that, pop the clutch cover and see if it blew apart/ came loose. If no, then something internal is jamming the kickstart lever.



Sun May 23, 2021 5:43 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Sun May 23, 2021 5:43 pm linkquote
the batwing works fine, it just doesn't hit neutral anymore for some reason. It goes to each notch no problem. The clutch arm underneath seems much tighter than it was before. I think I'll have to take the engine out for further investigation since there seems to be no other way to reach the clutch cover.

Something internal jamming the kickstart lever? That would prevent it from going into neutral? I could check that without removing the motor. I actually can move the kicstarter, it just propels the wheels.

One thing I noticed when I got it to fire up briefly earlier was I hadn't fully tightened the flywheel nut. I wonder if that shook something loose.

Last edited by nickton on Sun May 23, 2021 5:51 pm; edited 1 time in total
Sun May 23, 2021 5:46 pm

Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 86 & 96 Elite 80s, 2015 HD Road Glide Special, 2011 Ural Tourist
Joined: 18 Jan 2012
Posts: 3995
Location: Oceanside, CA
 
Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 86 & 96 Elite 80s, 2015 HD Road Glide Special, 2011 Ural Tourist
Joined: 18 Jan 2012
Posts: 3995
Location: Oceanside, CA
Sun May 23, 2021 5:46 pm linkquote
Iím not familiar with GSís, but on every other Vespa you can remove the rear tire and get access to the 3 bolts holding the cover on. Do you have a workbench or something you can lean the scooter up against to give you good access?
Sun May 23, 2021 5:51 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Sun May 23, 2021 5:51 pm linkquote
Yea I guess I could do that.
Sun May 23, 2021 6:33 pm

Molto Verboso
Vespa
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 1298
Location: California
 
Molto Verboso
Vespa
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 1298
Location: California
Sun May 23, 2021 6:33 pm linkquote
sometimes the gear cross slots don't line up which makes shifting with the engine not running difficult. Can you get the trans and shifter to move by pulling the clutch lever and using the kick start pedal? If everything is working properly the clutch should slip when pulled and kicked. Sometimes this will help line up the gear slots. You can also try pulling the clutch and rolling the scooter rotating the gear selector. Any trouble with the kick start pedal returning?
Sun May 23, 2021 7:58 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Sun May 23, 2021 7:58 pm linkquote
Right now I have the clutch cable disconnected and I don't need it to change gears. Maybe I'll hook it up again and try what you suggested tomorrow after work.
The kick start returns fine I think.
Thank you.
Sun May 23, 2021 9:42 pm

Molto Verboso
Vespa
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 1298
Location: California
 
Molto Verboso
Vespa
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 1298
Location: California
Sun May 23, 2021 9:42 pm linkquote
The kicker will rotate the gears so the slots can align with the cross and the slipping clutch will allow this. Sounds like the cross isnít able to move due to the sitting gear arrangement
Mon May 24, 2021 6:35 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Mon May 24, 2021 6:35 pm linkquote
I managed to get it lined up I guess. But now it doesn't go into gear. Every gear is like it's in neutral, but no problem with kicking it. I am also very confused about which spark plug to use. I have three types of NGK's: B7HS, BR6HS, and the longer B6ES. The B7HS was in there when I first got the scooter.

I appear to have lost some gear oil too--the bottom is a bit oily from some leaking. Since I can't find my supply I'll need to get some more gear oil. I aslo need new gas, and the petcock leaks, but that shouldn't prevent starting.
Mon May 24, 2021 7:38 pm

Banned
2:6
Joined: 11 Jan 2007
Posts: 7777
Location: San Francisco
 
Banned
2:6
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Posts: 7777
Location: San Francisco
Mon May 24, 2021 7:38 pm linkquote
Want to trade it for something a bit more normal?
Mon May 24, 2021 7:55 pm

Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 86 & 96 Elite 80s, 2015 HD Road Glide Special, 2011 Ural Tourist
Joined: 18 Jan 2012
Posts: 3995
Location: Oceanside, CA
 
Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 86 & 96 Elite 80s, 2015 HD Road Glide Special, 2011 Ural Tourist
Joined: 18 Jan 2012
Posts: 3995
Location: Oceanside, CA
Mon May 24, 2021 7:55 pm linkquote
Iím confused by what you mean ďevery gear is like its in neutral, but no problem kicking it.Ē

Do you mean you can spin the handle into every gear easily with the engine turned off? If thats the case, your selector box is probably broken.

Or do you mean you no resistance is given at the back wheel with the normal handle resistance?

Or do you mean the kickstart lever is free?

Or do you mean the kickstart lever still has normal resistance and engine compression?
Tue May 25, 2021 7:40 am

Hooked
various, but less than I used to have
Joined: 20 Aug 2012
Posts: 107
Location: San Anselmo
 
Hooked
various, but less than I used to have
Joined: 20 Aug 2012
Posts: 107
Location: San Anselmo
Tue May 25, 2021 7:40 am linkquote
I could probably swing by on my home from work and give you a few minutes. I've had more than my share of GSs. Give me a call at Oakland area code 681 6997.
Tue May 25, 2021 12:23 pm

Ossessionato
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 3319
Location: Nashville
 
Ossessionato
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 3319
Location: Nashville
Tue May 25, 2021 12:23 pm linkquote
If it's started leaking oil at the same time as the gearing issues began, check for a crack in the cases.
Wed May 26, 2021 4:36 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Wed May 26, 2021 4:36 pm linkquote
What I meant about the gears is, when I change them using the handle, the selector goes into each notch fine, but the back wheel spins free on all of them, so I assume it's not actually going into those gears, which makes each gear seem like a neutral.
If it went into gear with each turn to a new notch, I would think the back wheel would not spin free for 4 out of 5 notches.

the kickstart lever seems to work fine, but I don't know what "normal resistance" is.

I'm not sure about how the compression should feel either

By the way maybe I shouldn't have said this gs 150 sucks. I was just feeling frustrated at the time.
Thu May 27, 2021 1:41 am

Molto Verboso
Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Posts: 1251
Location: Racing Capital of the World
 
Molto Verboso
Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Posts: 1251
Location: Racing Capital of the World
Thu May 27, 2021 1:41 am linkquote
nickton wrote:
What I meant about the gears is, when I change them using the handle, the selector goes into each notch fine, but the back wheel spins free on all of them, so I assume it's not actually going into those gears, which makes each gear seem like a neutral.
If it went into gear with each turn to a new notch, I would think the back wheel would not spin free for 4 out of 5 notches.

the kickstart lever seems to work fine, but I don't know what "normal resistance" is.

I'm not sure about how the compression should feel either

By the way maybe I shouldn't have said this gs 150 sucks. I was just feeling frustrated at the time.
You most likely have an issue with the selector and selector Rod. I will not begin to walk you through checking this as itís way more complicated then a largeframe-the removal and installation. Where are you located as I recommend a widebody specialist in your area.
Thu May 27, 2021 6:16 am

Hooked
various, but less than I used to have
Joined: 20 Aug 2012
Posts: 107
Location: San Anselmo
 
Hooked
various, but less than I used to have
Joined: 20 Aug 2012
Posts: 107
Location: San Anselmo
Thu May 27, 2021 6:16 am linkquote
Three things could be happening that you could test easily.

1. Clutch is engaged so it feels like the rear wheel is in perpetual 'Neutral'. release the cable and see if there is any difference. If not, take the clutch cover off as the geometry of the plunger might be keeping the clutch open.
This is unlikely as you would feel the difference in the kick start, but you stated you have no idea what the kickstart should feel like or what compression feels like.

2. The shifting cables are so tight that they are overriding the indexing mechanism of the shift box. Loosen the cable and see if you can shift by manually moving the indexing wheel.

3. The most likely scenario is that the arm of the shifting index arm is not in the groove of the shifting cross extension. On assembly it takes quite the effort to get this in the right position. put the shifting mech all the way into first gear (and beyond if it will) and tip the bike over toward the engine side. If the cross (and extension) are not engaged properly it will slip into random gears.
Thu May 27, 2021 6:24 am

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Thu May 27, 2021 6:24 am linkquote
I am located in the san francisco bay area. I've tried to do get this going on my own since I have no car and not much money. This is obviously not the best scooter for someone in my situation but I will forge on and try to fix it. I'm in no rush really. I just got excited because it seemed to be ready to start.

The previous owner of the bike said he had the engine re built so I didn't take apart the motor, I only removed and cleaned it. I did however take out the flywheel, kick start, and gear selector. I do remember wondering how exactly to install the selector so that's probably it.

Thanks for all the help.

Last edited by nickton on Thu May 27, 2021 6:43 am; edited 1 time in total
Thu May 27, 2021 6:43 am

Molto Verboso
Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Posts: 1251
Location: Racing Capital of the World
 
Molto Verboso
Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Posts: 1251
Location: Racing Capital of the World
Thu May 27, 2021 6:43 am linkquote
nickton wrote:
I am located in the san francisco bay area. I've tried to do get this going on my own since I have no car and not much money. This is obviously not the best scooter for someone in my situation but I will forge on and try to fix it. I'm in no rush really. I just got excited because it seemed to be ready to start.

It does sound like the shifting arm problem is what's happening. I probably did not re-assemble that properly.
I will PM you the contact of a mobile vintage vespa guy that knows his way around Widebody engines. I respect his work, so that is good for something.
Fri May 28, 2021 9:53 am

Member
1962 Vespa GS160, 1967 Vespa SS180, 1966 Vespa SS90, 1985 Vespa electric start T5, 1965 Lambretta TV200, 1966 Lambretta SX200
Joined: 30 Oct 2019
Posts: 43
Location: Seattle
 
Member
1962 Vespa GS160, 1967 Vespa SS180, 1966 Vespa SS90, 1985 Vespa electric start T5, 1965 Lambretta TV200, 1966 Lambretta SX200
Joined: 30 Oct 2019
Posts: 43
Location: Seattle
Fri May 28, 2021 9:53 am linkquote
nickton wrote:
I managed to get it lined up I guess. But now it doesn't go into gear. Every gear is like it's in neutral, but no problem with kicking it. I am also very confused about which spark plug to use. I have three types of NGK's: B7HS, BR6HS, and the longer B6ES. The B7HS was in there when I first got the scooter.

I appear to have lost some gear oil too--the bottom is a bit oily from some leaking. Since I can't find my supply I'll need to get some more gear oil. I aslo need new gas, and the petcock leaks, but that shouldn't prevent starting.
I have owned over 30 GS 150's and 160's. The GS160 is by far the easier to work on and more reliable machine, but as you have a VS4 (great choice by the way/super classic lines) I will stick to your machine. For around town you will want an NGK B7ES but once you get it running really well (yes, this is possible) and want to take it on the freeway (done this many times when I still lived in San Francisco/ great city) you will most certainly want a B8ES. The HS plugs are for VBB's and the like. They may fit, but that is not the right plug.

Here is the tricky part. NGK stopped making these plugs in a non resistor type (you don't want a resistor plug for your Vespa) so either you try to sourcing these plugs from someone like me (not selling/ just saying) or use a comparable plug made by another manufacturer.

The gear oil replacement is easy (SAE 30). Every auto parts store carries this stuff, and it's cheap.

The gear selector set up does take some finesse. it was the first major service problem I had on my first Vespa (a Cushman model VS5). You have received some great advice on this already. I must say, you will need to have everything hooked up (all your cables and adjusters) to get this done properly. Once all your cables (clutch included) are hooked up, first begin by setting the gear selector box in neutral. Kick the kickstart lever while trying to move the gears if this is difficult. Sometimes rocking the scooter (while you are sitting on it) back and forth can help as well. When you are in neutral, take a look at the gear indicator notches on the left side of your headset. You probably are not line up well. Don't worry.

Next loosen your gear cables on the gear selector box. Make sure your gear indicator on the headset is still lined up on the neutral slot and then tighten both gear cables. Do your best to get each cable as tight as possible without moving the position of your gear selector on the headset. Additionally, you will need to make sure the adjuster nuts at the front of the gear selector box, where the cables attach, are screwed all the way in (flush with the gear selector box). You will unscrew these nuts to tighten the gear selection from here so that slight movement of your gear selector lever on the headset is possible, without being so tight that you have a hard time moving the gears at all. Part of the problem you are most likely noticing is that the GS150 gears are very hard to move through while the motor is not running and the scooter is not in motion. Just moving from neutral to first, and back, can be a real chore. Your GS is not broken. It just needs to be understood.

Practice makes perfect, and the more you play with this stuff, the more what I am stating will make sense, and then, of course, the more you will enjoy your GS.

I hope this helps.
Fri May 28, 2021 5:07 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Fri May 28, 2021 5:07 pm linkquote
It definitely helps. Thank you.

So how can I find the right spark plug? I'll have to look for a cross reference for compatible plugs I guess.

Another issue I have is not knowing how much to tighten my clutch cable. I could have it loose, or tighten it considerably more, but I'm not sure what is right. It feels like the tighter option is better, but how do I know if I went too far or need to go tighter? I wouldn't want to "ride the clutch" of course.
Fri May 28, 2021 5:25 pm

Member
1962 Vespa GS160, 1967 Vespa SS180, 1966 Vespa SS90, 1985 Vespa electric start T5, 1965 Lambretta TV200, 1966 Lambretta SX200
Joined: 30 Oct 2019
Posts: 43
Location: Seattle
 
Member
1962 Vespa GS160, 1967 Vespa SS180, 1966 Vespa SS90, 1985 Vespa electric start T5, 1965 Lambretta TV200, 1966 Lambretta SX200
Joined: 30 Oct 2019
Posts: 43
Location: Seattle
Fri May 28, 2021 5:25 pm linkquote
nickton wrote:
It definitely helps. Thank you.

So how can I find the right spark plug? I'll have to look for a cross reference for compatible plugs I guess.

Another issue I have is not knowing how much to tighten my clutch cable. I could have it loose, or tighten it considerably more, but I'm not sure what is right. It feels like the tighter option is better, but how do I know if I went too far or need to go tighter? I wouldn't want to "ride the clutch" of course.
Tighten the clutch cable as tight as you can but leave just about a quarter inch of movement in the clutch lever before the cable begins to move the clutch arm at the base of the motor. If you have the cable too tight, you will know when you kickstart the scooter and the lever goes straight to the ground with little or no resistance. If it is too loose the motor won't die when you pull in the clutch lever and the scooter is in gear. The easiest way to tell is the amount of slack on the clutch lever though, and this test does not require a running motor.

As for the spark plug, there are plenty of cross reference guides available online. Some are better than others but you do have choices.

Hope this bit helps as well. Did I mention I love GS's? Well, I do.
Sat May 29, 2021 2:57 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Sat May 29, 2021 2:57 pm linkquote
So far I haven't encountered much to love beyond the way it looks. I've been going back and forth with the wiring and finally got it to where the lights worked the other day and came back to it today and I get nothing. Not even the tail light. I've taken it apart so many times I'm begining to fantasize about that scene in Quadrophenia where the kid sends his gs over the white cliffs of Dover.

I can't afford to take it to someone and I have no car or trailer anyway. Everytime I get near it now I get in a sour mood. I've put a lot of painstaking work into it and still it just doesn't seem to like me. So much for the concept of a fun and relaxing hobby.

Oh yes. About the spark plug: I ordered an NGKB7ES from scooter works on line. I don't think it has a resistor, but it didn't say. It appears to be pretty widely available too.

Last edited by nickton on Mon May 31, 2021 12:47 pm; edited 3 times in total
Sun May 30, 2021 8:50 am

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Sun May 30, 2021 8:50 am linkquote
The problem is probably with the user rather than the scooter I must admit. I knew these were expensive to restore from the start.
Mon May 31, 2021 8:37 am

Member
1962 Vespa GS160, 1967 Vespa SS180, 1966 Vespa SS90, 1985 Vespa electric start T5, 1965 Lambretta TV200, 1966 Lambretta SX200
Joined: 30 Oct 2019
Posts: 43
Location: Seattle
 
Member
1962 Vespa GS160, 1967 Vespa SS180, 1966 Vespa SS90, 1985 Vespa electric start T5, 1965 Lambretta TV200, 1966 Lambretta SX200
Joined: 30 Oct 2019
Posts: 43
Location: Seattle
Mon May 31, 2021 8:37 am linkquote
nickton wrote:
So far I haven't encountered much to love beyond the way it looks. I've been going back and forth with the wiring and finally got it to where the lights worked the other day and came back to it today and I get nothing. Not even the tail light. I've taken it apart so many times I'm begining to fantasize about that scene in Quadrophenia where the kid sends his gs over the white cliffs of Dover.

I can't afford to take it to someone and I have no car or trailer anyway. Everytime I get near it now I get in a sour mood. I've put a lot of painstaking work into it and still it just doesn't seem to like me. So much for the concept of a fun and relaxing hobby.

Oh yes. About the spark plug: I ordered an NGKB7ES from the scooter center on line. I don't think it has a resistor, but it didn't say. It appears to be pretty widely available too,
Yes, these spark plugs appear to be widely available. Most are fakes or resistor plug not listed as resistor plugs. I had a hard time finding some that were real, they are out there, and then, of course, there are the comparable plugs.

As for the pain you are experiencing, welcome to the club. Vintage scooters, as fantastic as they are, do need specialized skill/ knowledge, much of which has not been handed down, and then there is the fact that you chose a GS150 to start with. These are notoriously hard to work on for the uninitiated. It is a spark assist motor in the design of a performance model of the Vespa made up until that time. The GS160 is a vast improvement over the GS150 for ease of use and maintenance.

Without working on your scooter myself, I would have no way of knowing what all is needed, but some basic steps will help, provided your motor has good compression, turns over, and generates spark. You just have to run things down by the numbers.
Mon May 31, 2021 12:57 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Mon May 31, 2021 12:57 pm linkquote
It's dawning on me that I've come across the rude awakening of my own unrealistic expectations. This is a test of patience and persistance and I shouldn't get too bent out of shape about growing pains that occur with each detail.

I just took out the speedo again and noticed the front brake cable pinching a red wire. I think I cut the brake outer too short and should also re rout it. Order a new cable I guess... Maybe this has to do wtih my electrical problems too...

Just one question I may answer myself when I get to it: Does the front brake cable rout through those side slots or down the middle of the fork tube? I have it down the middle but it seems too crowded by the speedo and its cable.
Mon May 31, 2021 3:40 pm

Banned
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Posts: 7777
Location: San Francisco
 
Banned
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Location: San Francisco
Mon May 31, 2021 3:40 pm linkquote
down the middle of the fork tube, it's crowded but it works
Mon May 31, 2021 6:43 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Mon May 31, 2021 6:43 pm linkquote
Yea I figured that out today. The problem was I needed the brake line re routed so it came out the bottom of the fork. I had it going out a hole somewhere behind the fender, which was not right. The pinched red wire I mentioned was actually the horn wires shrink wrapped together, that were pinched by the clutch cable. I fixed it too.

Unfortunately I still don't understand why the lights quit working. I went through every wire and re attached them and checked for continuity but can't find anything. Also trickled charged the battery yesterday so it's fully charged... Very strange.

I guess I'll try again tomorrow.


view of the rat's nest. Some wire painted since I didn't have the right color.


speedo out


taped up better after triple checking wires and re doing some just in case their connections weren't good enough.

Wed Jun 02, 2021 4:02 am

Ossessionato
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 3319
Location: Nashville
 
Ossessionato
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 3319
Location: Nashville
Wed Jun 02, 2021 4:02 am linkquote
Did you check for shorts to ground while you were checking continuity?

A short should blow the fuse, assuming both that you have one and that the headlight is on a fused circuit, but given the state of electrical in there, I'd say assumption is not a good plan.
Fri Jun 04, 2021 5:01 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Fri Jun 04, 2021 5:01 pm linkquote
It's not blowing fuses anymore. The lights just don't work at all. I think I found all ground faults and solved them. First it was the bad horn, then the speedo light--for which I used electrical tape to prevent any contact of it's wire with metal. I had also gotten the rear lights to work when I discovered they needed a better ground connection. I documented some of this on another thread called "fuse blows on gs 150".

The electrical problems are a mystery to me at this point. I must have absent mindedly done something I am not yet aware of to cause them.

Right now I'm just taking a break from it.
Sun Jun 06, 2021 11:41 am

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Sun Jun 06, 2021 11:41 am linkquote
I fiddled with it again today and got all lights to work, but only when I added a grounding wire to the headlight ground, that connects to a metal part inside the head. Then I tried to put it all back and blew a fuse. So I removed that grounding wire and tried it again with a new fuse, which blew as I hooked the chrome headlight ring onto its top hole in the headset.

There appears to be a ground fault in the headlight harness, which only occurs when I mount it back on the head.

Part of the problem may be my use of the original lamp harness in an aftermarket light assembly (if that makes sense)... the original had no more reflective coating and was really banged up, but it's lamp connection area looked fine, and I couldn't bring myself to use the new cheap Indian one.







Last edited by nickton on Tue Jun 08, 2021 7:25 pm; edited 1 time in total
Tue Jun 08, 2021 7:16 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Tue Jun 08, 2021 7:16 pm linkquote
I figured out that the connection on one side of the drive light has a small fiber or rubber washer, which means the blue wire hooks into it instead of the ground. Now it doesn't blow fuses, and the drive light, speedo and rear lights work as they should, but the headlight no longer goes on. I feel close.

My re pop horn should be coming in soon. Maybe hooking it up will make the headlight come on...

Then I'll have to work on the gear selector. Or find someone to help.
Tue Jun 08, 2021 7:26 pm

Ossessionato
2015 GTS300, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 4646
Location: San Diego, CA
 
Ossessionato
2015 GTS300, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 4646
Location: San Diego, CA
Tue Jun 08, 2021 7:26 pm linkquote
Best advice is to meet some local scooterists, is a huge help for stuff like this when you get stuck.
Wed Jun 09, 2021 5:19 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Wed Jun 09, 2021 5:19 pm linkquote
I got the ngk b7es spark plug, but it has an R on it. This must mean it has a resistor. Or not? It cost me over $9 after shipping from Scooter Works. Bummer.
Wed Jun 09, 2021 7:20 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Wed Jun 09, 2021 7:20 pm linkquote
I just took apart the gear selector a bit and noticed I had forgotten to put in the taper pin (!). So I managed to get that in back together after some struggle, and also tightened the wires a bit. Now it appears I'm stuck in a gear again. I'll get back to it tomorrow after work. It's getting dark now.
Fri Jun 11, 2021 1:33 pm

Ossessionato
2015 GTS300, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 4646
Location: San Diego, CA
 
Ossessionato
2015 GTS300, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 4646
Location: San Diego, CA
Fri Jun 11, 2021 1:33 pm linkquote
just get the plug from any auto parts store (Napa, O'Reilly, Autozone). Then you can look at it right away and see if it is correct and avoid shipping. when they ask what year, blah blah blah just tell them you want an ngk b7es plug and they will find it. or use the cross reference



Fri Jun 11, 2021 2:14 pm

Ossessionato
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 3319
Location: Nashville
 
Ossessionato
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 3319
Location: Nashville
Fri Jun 11, 2021 2:14 pm linkquote
For an even easier experience, I look up the part in the web site and give them their internal part number. Saves them mucking around trying to figure out which one it is and instead, they can just go pull it for you.

It seems trivial, but the workers always seem to appreciate it when I do that.
Fri Jun 11, 2021 4:13 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Fri Jun 11, 2021 4:13 pm linkquote
So far I had a bit of trouble finding the right cross reference plug. There seems to be about 600 options to replace a b7es. Maybe I did it rong.

The Lambretta site says a Champion N3C is the correct non resistor one to get. But I'm not sure if I trust that now.

Also there are a few specifically listed on FleaBay as non resistor, but when you read the description it says they have one for EMI and RFI suppression.

Here is an example:

"Champion 801C Copper Plus Non-Resistor Spark Plug - N3C

Spark Plug Code: N3C


Copper Plus spark plug has a copper core center electrode that allows for accurate control of heat range, optimizing performance, and longevity of the spark plug.
Patented SAC-9 semi-conductor resistor for maximum EMI and RFI suppression.
Patented Ultraseal coated shell for rust prevention.
Thread 14mm"
Fri Jun 11, 2021 5:50 pm

Ossessionato
2015 GTS300, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 4646
Location: San Diego, CA
 
Ossessionato
2015 GTS300, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 4646
Location: San Diego, CA
Fri Jun 11, 2021 5:50 pm linkquote
the chart i used was from the Lambretta Sticky's manual, it agrees, N3 or N3C.

just go get one from the auto parts store, stop looking at ebay.
Sat Jun 12, 2021 9:01 am

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Sat Jun 12, 2021 9:01 am linkquote
That sounds like sound advice. I just can't tell whether that particular plug has a resistor or not.

I'm going try setting up the gear selector today.
Sat Jun 12, 2021 10:43 pm

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
GS-150 VS4
Joined: 04 Feb 2020
Posts: 141
Location: Vallejo, CA
Sat Jun 12, 2021 10:43 pm linkquote
Well I set up the gear selector today. I had the wires in backwards after figuring out which second notch was neutral and corresponding to the handle twist direction. It was easy enough to get it into neutral, and I took out the tapered pin again to see if I could align it differently to get it to work as I originally thought was right. But no. It had to be the other way, with neutral towards the outside, and not near the imprinted "SF"...

I can shift to every gear now but 4th. I'm not sure if that is a problem.
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