Modern Vespa

To demonstrate the difference, I just connected my argon tank.

100% argon is a brittle, ugly weld. Mainly, it's unsuitable for plug welds.

Out of curiosity, hjo.... what welder are you using and where do you have it set ? Also what size wire are you feeding it ?

Oh wow. That's so different with co2 mix.

I think it's a Lincoln electric. Not a very expensive one. But seems to work. I don't have any frame of reference.

This is so much work!

Looks like the edges line up and your out of the woods. You can always work out the small dent later or even a swipe of filler.

I think the hardest part is over!!

I can hit the seam from the inside, and make sure it's all sealed up, and really carefully blend it. It's kind of my own variety of bodge now.

the corner needs a little cut and fix, but I think it shouldn't be too hard.

Then just fixing the tail and attaching the floorboard!

Thay probably means 30 more hours of work, but it seems like the frame is saved.

Looks great!

What grit blending disks are you using? Looks too smooth at this point.

Get some quality 40's and you can totally sculp those welds, then move up to higher grits if you want and get close to glass.

Don't chase every pinhole with your welder. Leave those for filler.

so, uhhh... like, not king cobra?



asking for a friend

St. Ides!

The flap discs I got were 80 grit, I believe.

Duke Ellington on the earbuds and these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FT47NWN/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?psc=1p13NParams&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNlFFUUtCVzdMUDYwJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjU2MjY1M0RJTjE1Vko5SExMUSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTcxNTkxM1ZTQVkzRkhSSElMOCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbDImYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Thanks! I'll get some!

King Cobra's, Colt 45's, and throw in Some Mickey's grenades and you'll be done in no time

Big Mouths! That's all I drank for many-a-year...

Ugh...That brings back memories.

Heck of a job! Looking good man.

The dremel really your friend for grinding down welds. I use Rolac disks to get the heavy stuff off, but they are quite aggressive and can easily slip and gouge. Remember that the weld seam always makes a ditch so you will never get it flat by grinding without thinking the adjoining metal a lot. I wouldn't bother hammer and dollying to get it flat. A thin swipe of filler will make it go away.

I end up chasing every pinhole after grinding since I already have everything out and it doesn't take that much longer.

You're doing a super job. It takes a lot of time, but it's well worth it and you did it yourself. Restoring any sheet metal vehicle is pretty much the same deal, though every job is a little different with at least one thing that needs some extra figuring and fettling.

It's probably been my favorite part of working on my bus. I can build an engine, but sheet metal is really my thing.

Thanks!

All that other stuff is so easy! But it's really muscle memory. I know so well.

It's been fun learning to work with metal. That's become the major hurdle with these bikes as they reach this age.

Cutting a v really worked!

It's a little bit frankensein, but got the bridge piece to work. I pictured it being perfect and needing no body filler, but I guess this is as good as I can do.

At least the metal is strong (I hope).

I got it so that that no light shines through.

The most difficult part done!

Nice! You got it!

I took the week off from the shop, but back this week!

Patch looks great.

The back end- It looks like it has to be hammered and dollied out from the inside where it is pushed in. Move it back out. Then you can straighten the sides.

It's hard to tell what going on with the bottom part. If possible leave the seam in place and patch around it. I would remove as little as possible.

Now is the time to fix the fork stop. Dry fit the fork, see if it doesn't hit the stop cleanly, and adjust with a pair of vice grips until it does.

Doing it with the fork in the bike is considerably less fun.

And that dent on the back is so clean, it almost looks deliberate. Or maybe someone had a rack on there with a support bar that sat at that point. Either way, as Orwell said, hammer it out from the inside.

Project is looking great. It's going to be awesome.

As for the horn casting; one side is more curved along the bottom and one side more straight. I'm not sure which side is more correct. The crease across the front…I'm not sure if that's how it was made.

It could also be that the metal behind it is pushed in somewhat. I would start by getting some photos of a pristine example to figure out what shape it actually should be. The adjustments should be minor.

My VBB has the same kind of deal going on with that area. It might even need some frame straightening. But mine definitely took a hit up front.

Here's a shot of my SS which looks the same. The left side is slightly out but the right is good. Also note that on this bike the stops are even. Yours looks like it might have been re-formed at some point.

Thank you! This is a perfect shot of the horn cast.

The fork stop was completely pushed out. I tried to re-form with a vise grip, but it's very hard to get in there. I made it look kind of chewed.

I will try the trick with cutting a slot in a metal bar. I have a metal shop I can use.

On my P, it was so easy. I just chiseled back in, but horn cast here is in the way.

At the bottom, it looks weird. It's because I didn't blend it all the way. I am going to use the 2" sanding disc on a die grinder. The flap wheel was too imprecise, and was afraid of taking off too much.

I think that should work!

There are still some unfilled spots, but I don't think along the top seam. No light shines through. The ones that were plug welds were hard to fill. I think the 7.5mm drill bit was too big. I might just leave and use filler with some.

It's less finished than I was thinking. But just one more round!

My Ameribodge.

Coming along.

Looking good !

Excellent work! You should be really pleased with that.

This thing is becoming my life's work.

The shame of it is that when you are done no one will see it.
What have you found works best for grinding ?

Great progress !

You're a natural! Your bike is coming along nicely. You will find that the quality of your welds get better and better.

Welding the legshield seam might get interest. Probably some hammer and dolly work as you go but I think you're up to it.

The quality of your work is outstanding!

I love riding along via your posts and seeing the progress. It's going to look amazing when you're finished, and the best part will be when you explain to people what you've done and they almost can't believe it.

Keep at it and you'll be painting, then building, then riding in no time!

I hope no one notices when it's done!

I want it to look like the factory.

Think I might recreate the spot weld marks with a punch, or maybe dremel.

Yes. The legshield seam will be the most visible and important.

outstanding work. I know it's exhausting, but great job and your skills are improving quickly!

The original tail is definitely smoother with more radiused curves. Yours is probably a generic panel made for a p series. There are also some other details. Not sure how much you want to get into this. It's not hard to make a radiused curve and you seem to have figured out the seam part.

Here is a photo from SIP with the cowl on.

Thanks so much!

Everyone here has been so helpful.

I am looking forward to doing the second Rally. It will be much easier. The metal work part is fun!

That SIP photo helps.

The rail on mine had some collision damage, and was all crunched and semi-straightened out. There are several tears along the bottom, and the shape is lost. And metal is very degraded, but just the part below the brace.

I'm surprised there is no reproduction part for this. It's common on all square tails, and they always have damage.

Original bbq rack hardware cleans up.

Another day.

I used a whole tank of gas! Have to get another.