Modern Vespa

You might want to re-think replicating the spot welds. The original dimple is made by softening and compressing the material under very high heat. Unless you could get a heavy anvil behind the panel and compress the metal directly under the punch, you will, most likely, just deform and damage the beautiful work you have done.
If you're planning on at least a thin skim of filler to level it all out, and you are way better than I am if you can pull it off without, you are probably going to fill the spots anyway.

If you are going to cut both overlapping layers of the leg shield together, you're going to end up with a gap the width of the disk. Or more... I saw a guy cut an overlap with the disk at a 45 degree angle and the two layers came together on the bevels.

You've come a long way with your welding and that gas mix makes a world of difference.

Thank you so much!

I'm going to try the 45 degree angle.

Hm. Maybe the punch is a bad idea. I could also use a Dremel and grinder, or leave it.

Almost done with welding!

Fitting that legshield was a LOT of work! It had to be reshaped a lot at the top.

But all done except for fixing the tail part.

That's a challenge, too!

Amazing work.

It's looking phenomenal and, yes, the trim will cover up any rough edges. I took advantage of that fact with my VBB legshield repairs, too. It's all good!

Wiring.

I spoke to Bar Italia, and Kristian suggested I make a new wiring harness. Apparently, the one on Scooterhelp isn't correct for 1974, so I need to copy this one.

Since I have two 1974 Rallys, I can do both. The other didn't have any wiring except inside the headset.

So question:
1. What is the gauge?
2. Are there good sources for wiring/parts?

I want all the colors to be right, so there are some weird ones. Two-colored wires. The main ones seem to come in kits with white/black/yellow/red pretty inexpensively.

I have to find all the right connectors and plastic covers, shrink wrap, but hopefully it's not too hard with this one to use for reference.

First off, make sure that any wire you buy is tinned copper, not copper-plated aluminum.

I think you want 16ga, and I'd suggest getting it from a marine supplier, someone like Defender or West Marine, who will probably have all you want and then some, albeit possibly in larger spools than you're really looking for (but not necessarily).

This might be a good time to invest in some cheap automatic wire strippers, too. I picked some up and for doing anything more than one or two ends, I don't know how I ever lived without them.

Thanks! I'll check them out!

I saw tinned copper, and thought it was wrong, bc the old wires are just plain copper.

Yeah, tinned copper is corrosion-resistant. You can also look for "Marine Grade" or "ABYC" and they should be the same thing.

Crimp pliers and crimp connectors if you don't have them. They are referred to as open barrel connectors. They are way better than the hardware store type. There are 2 basic sizes, male and female. I haven't found ring terminals like that, so I solder those.

+1 on the wire stripper…

I thought I'd be ok with a cutter/twisting type of stripper, oh I was so wrong.

Can't remember life before the auto stripper…

Check this:

Custom harness building....

Why not a 12v conversion harness, battery, static stator, 12v regulator, and some new switches. The sip 12v conv wiring harness has wires for an extra kill switch that can be used for the key switch under the seat. I used those kill wires on a switch in the GL tool box. Also, the conversion wiring harness for the German rally with handlebar turn signals has the wires for a flasher and turn signals switch but need to add wires for US rear turn signals. May need to add a wire for high beam light above speedo…if you have that light.

It's just me but I'd rather fight a mountain lion then build a reliable wiring harness. I hear converting the euro rally harness to fit US switches and that fesma ignition is harder then building a new harness.

Rowdy is right on this one.

Having just done my second install of the BGM conversion harness, it's dead easy.

I was hooking it up as a DC setup with the SIP Vape for an added difficulty factor, but it was *still* dead easy. Sure, I had to run the wires for the front and rear turn signals, but that took almost no time at all since I was doing it all on a bare frame and the harness has the spot for the relay connector and power to the switch pre-built for you.

Thanks for all the tips!

I thought about this!

On that other Rally, I think I will do this. Just make it German spec with the handlebar lights, and prob 12v.

I saw the thread about trying to convert the german one to a US 1974, and it sounded like a nightmare.

I have all the original US market 1974 parts, and want to keep this one original.

I know the 1974s has a lot of electrical problems, though. The headlight runs off the battery. It's unique just one year, just US.

I got the stator rewired, and have the Femsa stuff.

The wiring is probably the hardest part.

I love the wiring harnesses that you can just buy. I put one in my P200 and it was so easy.

More of this. Getting close.

Domo arigato, mr. fabricato.

really impressive, seeing where you started from and how far it has come now, inspirational!

Thanks! This has taken a year! But it's getting close! Almost ready for paint!

+1

Truly.

The metal work is the fun part. Are you going to the prep and painting yourself ?

This is some outstanding and looking great!

Fabricating random sections of scooter is definitely next-level work.

I'm going to do the prep. I found a place to paint it. I don't have anywhere to do this myself.

I need to do the prep, I think, just to know where to use filler and not, seal all the seams, etc.

But the place seems great. They do lowriders and classic American cars. They quoted me $1500 if I get the paint. I guess the paint is expensive, too. The shop guy said a gallon of PPG is around $1200. But there's another brand called Essential (I think) that is much cheaper and good quality.

I think I'll do single stage paint. Though I'm not sure if you can tell the difference. But the original paint was single stage.

Still have to decide on color, but I feel like I should keep the original white, bc it survived so original so long.

The wiring. So frustrating.

You can get high quality looms for $100, but they're really different.

The German ones have a battery and indicators, and the same switches.

BUT: there's no rectifier. There's only one yellow wire. The wires are all different colors. And the switch is on the headset, so would need to run wires for the rear indicators, and back down through the body to the ignition switch.

After seeing this thread, it seems like I need to just make one.
Replacing Rally 200 wiring loom

Though might still be easier to modify one than do it all from scratch.

We'll look at you go!

Don't do that shit…

With the lines.

I've been there. Welded this big heavy deformation panel that ran the width of my bus and snapped a photo. Weird angle. Took a whole bunch more and it looked off in the other direction. The more you do that the more fucked up it will look.

Trust me.

Yer doin' good.

making a wiring harness from scratch is not hard and is the only way I'll go at this point.

I've got the diagram for the stock US harness someplace, but if you make it yourself you can have it function exactly how you want.

Example:
https://modernvespa.com/forum/post1753169#1753169

It was very crooked! I had to remove the tack welds and fill the seam with strips of metal. I added a LOT of metal, which is kind of sculpting back.

The outside will look good, but the inside is a bit ugly! And there's a brace in the way of grinding.

Ran out of time grinding. But it's getting there! One more day to clean it up and fix pinholes.

This has been so much work!!

That looks great!

If you run across it! I have the old harness, but some of the wires have been changed out. I think it's probably similar to the later American Rally, except for the location of the ignition?

Kristian at Bar Italia said that 1974 was the only year the headlight runs off the battery, but that's a bad design! He said it's fine, though. and LED lights help bc they don't drain as much.

in the past i used shrink wrap for the housing, but have since ordered from here and it's way nicer.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/sleeve-tubing.html

I use unwaxed dental floss to bundle the wires and keep them in place.

Lol…I was looking in the wrong place. Good save. Carry on.

I put the t square on the bottom edge, and lined up with the center seam, and was so far off.

It looks a bit rough, but should grind smooth. This was a challenge! I'm surprised no one makes a patch panel.

You have certainly come a long way.
Once you figure out how to build with the wire, you can sculpt things out of solid metal. Your corners could be ground round and then filled and built and ground again. Copper sheet behind it limits the build up. Aluminum also works as the steel weld won't stick to either.
Or kerf them and roll them together.
Speaking of grinding... keep in mind that the highest points will determine the thickness of the filler.

There are still some high spots I need to grind.

It's amazing! Once you get the hang of welding, it's more precise than it looks at first!

Here are some shots in better light.

I think I just need to round the corners more, and grind/straighten just a little.

I kerfed the tail to shape it. That's why there's so much metal. I think I can grind flat.

Got the tail shaped pretty well.

With the tail square, the cowls fit perfect, they were sitting at kind of weird angles at the back, but the whole tail was crunched.

Just have to fix the fork stop, and touch up a couple of holes, and it's ready for filler.

It's impossible to find a photo of a square tail in perfect shape. Even the high quality restorations are all repaired and look different.

I managed to weld in missing nuts for the seat and seat post. And they work! small victory.

That tail looks absolutely amazing!

You sure you've never done this before?

Never have fabricated anything!

But it's not as hard as I thought. You can keep working with it until it's right.

The tail on my other Rally frame is even worse than this was, so I guess I'll have a second shot at it.

I used the legsheild forming vice grips on the tail and they are very good for getting the lip right FYI

Seriously good outcome - though if totally honest - this flat is my least favorite feature of Vespas after 1961. Just kills me that they added that rather than keeping it round.
Your repair however, is excellent.
Very nice job.

Looks great. You've come a long way.

for reference:

Unsmashed '74 US OG paint Rally 200, with some non-stock holes.

That's really helpful!

mine's not quite right. But I think is maybe close enough.

That's really interesting. In other photos I saw, there was similar. There's a slight crease on the bead on the left side, but not the right. Must have been the way they were pressed.

Your cowls meet perfectly at the bottom edge, too. But mine wasn't like that even before. The tail is a bit lower.

The cowls seem to fit so different, but they are original.