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UTC quote
your will likely fit better than my originals do.
OP
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
FINYoshi wrote:
It's no surprise that the floor rails did not fit out of the box.

In my GL build I had the holes lined up on two out of six rails. Others had to be cut and re-drilled to make them fit. Of course the shape was also just a starting point.

Good job!
This is the hardest part so far! Rebuilding the engine is nothing!
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UTC quote
This might be the hardest, but the most annoying part is to join the cases. At least on a early engine with those skinny ball bearings on both sides of the crankshaft. Heating up the other half, another in the freezer. Join the cases - something binds. Rinse and repeat, does not go all the way in. Rinse and repeat, notice that the kickstarter small gear is still on the table. Rinse and repeat...

Learned the hard way
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76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
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UTC quote
What's funny is that having just split cases on a Sprint (old-style bearings) and LML/PX (two-piece fly side bearing), after warming the bearing race with a heat gun the Sprint motor basically fell back together like it was the easiest thing in the world. I was ready for all manner of wrestling and crank pulling and didn't need to do a bit of it.

The LML/PX motor, on the other hand, was a freakin' nightmare to get back together. Something just didn't want to seat right every time. The big difference, I think, is that the SprintV motor was on the bench so I could turn it on its side, so no lateral forces (gravity) on the shafts, whereas the LML was still in the bike.

At least I didn't leave my kickstarter gear on the bench and not notice until after I'd completed re-assembly and pressure tested the motor...this time...
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@hjo avatar
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
I am so close. Time to finish this thing.

Finally got the rails, which were really frustrating.

Dry fitting the glovebox, there's a bit of a gap there. The shape of the legshield now has changed a little. The legshield comes in a bit more at the bottom, which is not noticeable, bit it is when you mount the glovebox.

I am not sure how to approach this. I can either belt sand off a bit of material on the glove box to match the legshield, or try to pound out the legshield, maybe with a rubber mallet.
ok. Rails. This works.
ok. Rails. This works.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
I think I can fix this with a foam spacer inside, or tweaking the shape a little.
I think I can fix this with a foam spacer inside, or tweaking the shape a little.
This is bad.
This is bad.
Yikes.
Yikes.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@rallygeek avatar
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Polaris Grey Rally 200, Blue Marine Primavera ET3, Coral Red 50 Special
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UTC quote
There is some forgiveness in the rubber trim. Try dry fitting it too to see if it helps with the gap.
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UTC quote
Agree, the rubber trim will help!
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1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
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UTC quote
When I first installed an sip glove box on my ss frame that had a rough life, I had about the margins you are showing. I thought no way could this work but that rubber trim covered all the gaps !
@orwell84 avatar
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I think the rubber is made to take up that space. It does on my p bikes. You are well into that phase where things all tend to look like potential flaws. Just keep going. That bike's gonna all come together and look really sweet.
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UTC quote
orwell84 wrote:
I think the rubber is made to take up that space. It does on my p bikes. You are well into that phase where things all tend to look like potential flaws. Just keep going. That bike's gonna all come together and look really sweet.
My Rally was like that from the factory, once the rubber trim was on, it looked good enough. Also works to keep the rattling down.
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UTC quote
I need to pull the glovebox off my rally today anyhow. I'll snap a shot of how it lines up without the rubber trim.
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Ok. Thanks! I'll order the rubber trim. Hopefully it's forgiving.
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79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62), 63 VBB (Storm)
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UTC quote
hjo wrote:
Ok. Thanks! I'll order the rubber trim. Hopefully it's forgiving.
You don't have the rubber trim yet?? Razz emoticon

You're gonna have a super sweet ride here shortly! Keep up the good work...
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
I just ordered the rubber trim from Scooterwest. Should get it wednesday.

Super excited that the German shops have these things. Repro screws for the bottom of the glovebox. Mine were destroyed.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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UTC quote
And that too…I think it will fit better when it bolted on. The bolts probably take up some flex. it the glovebox.
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Look at that. With the rubber and mounting hardware, it's fine.

ok!

So I just have to fill four holes where I put the end caps wrong, and do a final wet sand!
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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UTC quote
looking great man!
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1974 Rally (3), 1971 Rally 180, 1960 Li 125
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UTC quote
Go man, go!
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UTC quote
*wolf eyes*
*Sound of antique horn*

Get that thing to paint!
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UTC quote
Dry fitting all your trim and glove box etc BEFORE paint, now that's smart.
Also makes your bike look like a million bucks! Clap emoticon
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@hjo avatar
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
V oodoo wrote:
Dry fitting all your trim and glove box etc BEFORE paint, now that's smart.
Also makes your bike look like a million bucks! Clap emoticon
I was worried it wouldn't fit after replacing all that metal!
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
ok.. Coming along.
Six floor rails!
Six floor rails!
They're all there. And look right. It's so much easier when the holes are there. Placing them was scary.
They're all there. And look right. It's so much easier when the holes are there. Placing them was scary.
I has this powder coated with a batch. It was super rusty.
I has this powder coated with a batch. It was super rusty.
I wonder if I should save it. Those springs on the top are probably worn out?
I wonder if I should save it. Those springs on the top are probably worn out?
This repro seat looks pretty nice, but doesn't show the frame.
This repro seat looks pretty nice, but doesn't show the frame.
There's also the cover. This one doesn't have the white stiching, but does have the rivet, and really dark blue instead of black.
There's also the cover. This one doesn't have the white stiching, but does have the rivet, and really dark blue instead of black.
They also sell the foam. There's a piece of rubber between the springs and foam I am missing.
They also sell the foam. There's a piece of rubber between the springs and foam I am missing.
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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UTC quote
Looking real good!! Clap emoticon Chipping away
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Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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UTC quote
I think you can source springs if any fail. I'm always for saving OG parts if they look usable, and that one certainly does.
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
I'll try to save it. Much cheaper, too.

The german shops have all the parts – the clips and rubber buffers.

The only things they don't have are this black rubber mat that goes above the springs and a thin piece of foam that goes above the seat padding.

I'm sure the rubber mat is something I could buy on Amazon, but don't know what it's called.
This mat under the seat.
This mat under the seat.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Johnny Two Tone
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UTC quote
craft store or sewing store might be the easiest
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UTC quote
sdjohn wrote:
craft store or sewing store might be the easiest
Agreed. They'll have the foam you need.
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Johnny Two Tone
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UTC quote
probably a scrap of vinyl would do over the springs, and they will have that also
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UTC quote
measured the rubber sheet on Rally seat, it's 3mm thick. The GS is 5mm thick and has a waffle texture.
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Johnny Two Tone
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UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
measured the rubber sheet on Rally seat, it's 3mm thick. The GS is 5mm thick and has a waffle texture.
you can get rubber sheeting thick like that at home depot
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
measured the rubber sheet on Rally seat, it's 3mm thick. The GS is 5mm thick and has a waffle texture.
Thank you!

I'll save the seat frame. Might as well, I had it powder coated.
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UTC quote
McMaster has it too. one example: https://www.mcmaster.com/8634K318/
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2007 Stella 225
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UTC quote
That plastic or rubber, looks like it's purpose is to ride on top of springs and protect foam from springs. Just needs to be stiff enough to not get torn up by springs.
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UTC quote
Just out of curiosity. How do a Rally and a VBB compare in terms of size of the frame? Compared to a P series?
OP
@hjo avatar
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
orwell84 wrote:
Just out of curiosity. How do a Rally and a VBB compare in terms of size of the frame? Compared to a P series?
They're all the same size, as far as I know. The older ones are a bit bigger (if you're trying to fit in a car) bc the tail and horncast extend out longer.
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@hjo avatar
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
ok.

Since I'm ordering from Germany, want to make sure I have all these parts.

I think I have all these correct. Lots of grommets for wires, and then there are four styles for battery buffers, and not sure which are used.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
All for of these are different, but all called battery buffer for a rally. ???? Not sure which, or if there are multiple.
All for of these are different, but all called battery buffer for a rally. ???? Not sure which, or if there are multiple.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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UTC quote
The hole behind the battery is a tall buffer (top left in your picture).
the 3 holes in the base of the battery tray are the bottom left buffer in your picture.
The hole above the flasher is nothing that I know of.

The hole in the bottom left side of the battery tray is not present on mine. you should weld it up before someone knocks points off for an incorrect restoration.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@hjo avatar
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
The hole behind the battery is a tall buffer (top left in your picture).
the 3 holes in the base of the battery tray are the bottom left buffer in your picture.
The hole above the flasher is nothing that I know of.

The hole in the bottom left side of the battery tray is not present on mine. you should weld it up before someone knocks points off for an incorrect restoration.
Thank you so much!!!
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UTC quote
the bottom bolt on the regulator also has a rubber lined metal clamp that holds the wires going to the battery and flasher.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@hjo avatar
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
This is so helpful! Thank you!

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