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Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
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Ossessionato
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UTC quote
dsnyder586 wrote:
Dont forget to run tap and die through all studs and bolt holes.
This is a must. Paint seems harmless enough, but it can cause problems. I had some overspray on the bearing cup holes on the swing arm on my SS. I figured it wasn't a big deal. The bearing cups would absolutely not go in at all until I removed the overspray.
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
I had to remove a lot of paint for the bearing races in the fork. Even after taping them up.

I'll definitely tap and die everything. It's just the seat bolts, spare tire, and femsa box posts. Two sizes.
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UTC quote
hjo wrote:
I had to remove a lot of paint for the bearing races in the fork. Even after taping them up.

I'll definitely tap and die everything. It's just the seat bolts, spare tire, and femsa box posts. Two sizes.
Femsa posts: M6 (I think)
seat: M7
spare tire M8
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
Femsa posts: M6 (I think)
seat: M7
spare tire M8
Thanks!! i can get by with one tap and two dies. Not bad!
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
This is fun now.
Think that's in right. My rough repair to the fork stop made seating it harder. But at least the fork stops now.
Think that's in right. My rough repair to the fork stop made seating it harder. But at least the fork stops now.
This thing I powder coated with a texture, bc I remember these having a slight texture. And almost black but like dark gray.
This thing I powder coated with a texture, bc I remember these having a slight texture. And almost black but like dark gray.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Going to put the stripes on after the bike is assembled. 

Those seem like a challenge. They are almost always at weird angles.
Going to put the stripes on after the bike is assembled. Those seem like a challenge. They are almost always at weird angles.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Almost have these. After like 10 attempts, I seem to have found a technique – Paint, then rub the paint smooth. It's the only way to not have brush strokes or puddle-looking areas.
Almost have these. After like 10 attempts, I seem to have found a technique – Paint, then rub the paint smooth. It's the only way to not have brush strokes or puddle-looking areas.
I think that works. It has a slight bit of a texture. but not in a bad way.
I think that works. It has a slight bit of a texture. but not in a bad way.
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Ossessionato
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UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
It's true. I did this when I clamped the camera to my VBB's legshield, despite putting protection on the clamp. I'll fix it at some point and after a little color sanding it'll be good-as-new, but it still sucks.

Side note: I'm still not sure why the paint was that soft after three months. I got something wrong in the mix, I guess.
I have this shitty old-school Oscar the Grouch metal trash can that I use to set up my paint gun. The paint on it is perfect and indestructible. Much better than the paint on anything I have shot on purpose. Go figure.
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UTC quote
hjo wrote:
This is fun now.
Can we get some people to chime in on restoring those badges? I know that you can also put grease or jelly on and wipe it where you want the paint to stick.. I do like this look though.
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
I find the center mat often has to be pulled into place. I coat it with grip glue and let it get tacky. then place it and put the rails and screws on, not tight, it will be pulling on the loops in the mat. then work pulling it to one side and tight the screw some, then the other side...
I use a 1" putty knife with a good, grippable handle to push the mat down so the bar will hold it, then screw it down. No adhesive, but no issues, either.

And *please* put some masking tape under that brake pedal before you accidentally scrape the paint on the floorboard with it!
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
I use a 1" putty knife with a good, grippable handle to push the mat down so the bar will hold it, then screw it down. No adhesive, but no issues, either.

And *please* put some masking tape under that brake pedal before you accidentally scrape the paint on the floorboard with it!
Yes! I will do that!

The putty knife is a really good idea.

Those screws are treacherous. They are flat head, and slightly rounded in the slot. Basically designed to make the screwdriver slip and gouge the paint.

Luckily, I did that when I was dry building it, and gouged the primer. So knew to use a mat to cover the paint this time.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
The badges are closer, but still need more smoothing. :) every time I do that, I have to reapply paint, but gets closer each time.
The badges are closer, but still need more smoothing. :) every time I do that, I have to reapply paint, but gets closer each time.
Still kind of amazing how these cleaned up.
Still kind of amazing how these cleaned up.
⚠️ Last edited by hjo on UTC; edited 1 time
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Ossessionato
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UTC quote
I think the badges came out great. All of it, really superb work.

This is the fun part for sure.
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1979 P200, 1960 Lambretta s2, 1975 Rally 200
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UTC quote
the badges look great. A labor of love! That said I also love the history in the wear marks on the the originals. The fact that the the way you made them (your process) had a history of building up texture and marks slowly (instead of just slapping on paint) is a testament to the flavor of the originals and the reason conceptually as well as actually that they look so great, they incorporate the old history into their renewed state. Clap emoticon
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
The badges were definitely a learning experience.

I sent them to a shop to be re-anodized, which was WAY more expensive than I had expected. I didn't ask upfront, bc I just thought "what could two small pieces of aluminum be?"

But they look nice. The anodizing came out beautiful.
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Molto Verboso
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This is as good as I can get these.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
One center mat attached.
One center mat attached.
Not attached yet, but the polished ones. I guess they all come polished. I don't think they were originally. They were just cast aluminum.

I damaged the paint with the dolly, peening the rivets. Should touch up, though.
Not attached yet, but the polished ones. I guess they all come polished. I don't think they were originally. They were just cast aluminum. I damaged the paint with the dolly, peening the rivets. Should touch up, though.
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UTC quote
hjo wrote:
This is as good as I can get these.
Blue tape over the rivet
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
dsnyder586 wrote:
Blue tape over the rivet
That's a good idea. The rivet heads got kind of dented.

These rivets suck! They're from Pascoli. They're the right size, but the material is harder than the aluminum ones, and peening them is much harder.

I can get them to peen, but I don't want to fully round them, bc I know I'll hit the paint. And it's too late to replace them.
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Little things.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
I'm not sure if these look right. This seems big. But the diameter of the opening is right.
I'm not sure if these look right. This seems big. But the diameter of the opening is right.
This is the one for the rear brake cable and clutch. If I remember the points in. This was another opening I had to recreate after welding. And the grommet fits.
This is the one for the rear brake cable and clutch. If I remember the points in. This was another opening I had to recreate after welding. And the grommet fits.
The big one is fuel, It's not seated quite right. But these are right, I think.

Smaller pointy one is throttle/choke and wires? And the flat one is oil.
The big one is fuel, It's not seated quite right. But these are right, I think. Smaller pointy one is throttle/choke and wires? And the flat one is oil.
Piaggio.
Piaggio.
Piaggio & C.
Piaggio & C.
I didn't see a grommet for this one. It's the main harness. And the smaller one is just American 1974 turn signals. A hole they drilled after the bike was made. Might have to get these from somewhere else.
I didn't see a grommet for this one. It's the main harness. And the smaller one is just American 1974 turn signals. A hole they drilled after the bike was made. Might have to get these from somewhere else.
This is the wires for the taillight. This must be one shops have.
This is the wires for the taillight. This must be one shops have.
This rubber thing is great, but it didn't come with adhesive. It's just cut out. Not sure what to use here.
This rubber thing is great, but it didn't come with adhesive. It's just cut out. Not sure what to use here.
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UTC quote
the one that the harness, throttle, and choke pass through should be pointed up as they all have to pass up and over the cylinder cowl.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
This could use type 1 McMaster grommet
This could use type 1 McMaster grommet
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Thanks! The cables one is easy. It's very pliable. The fuel line one is almost like plastic. The quality of rubber varies so much.

I'll try McMaster.
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UTC quote
hjo wrote:
I'll try McMaster.
Cole hardware likely has one that will work too.
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
Cole hardware likely has one that will work too.
The Ace Hardware locations on Clement and Laurel Heights are surprisingly good for hardware.

I'm amazed they stock that stuff. Or maybe it's been sitting there for decades.

I have one of the blue switches, and one turn signal connecter without the pin.

I think I can modify a brake switch to work, though. Just replace the peg with a metal one, and faux-lathe it on a drill.

I'm hoping. Those are the rarest parts.

Shame no one makes blue switches. They're all gray or black.
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Might try to save this.

The kickstart lever was really pitted and scratched. But I like it has the Piaggio badge.

Cleaning it up to see if it's usable.
Still pitted, but shiny. I could probably get a lot of these out.
Still pitted, but shiny. I could probably get a lot of these out.
Love the stamp.
Love the stamp.
The part where it's touching the ground is flat. Is that from wear, or the shape of it?
The part where it's touching the ground is flat. Is that from wear, or the shape of it?
This is the worst part. some road rash.
This is the worst part. some road rash.
The texture of the paint is growing on me. I saw it as a defect, but can see why the painter called it "character" now. It's very uniform everywhere.

I am so scared to put on the Ulma trim. It's this sharp edge that digs in to the paint
The texture of the paint is growing on me. I saw it as a defect, but can see why the painter called it "character" now. It's very uniform everywhere. I am so scared to put on the Ulma trim. It's this sharp edge that digs in to the paint
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bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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bodgemaster
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UTC quote
How many coats did the painter end up getting on there?
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
How many coats did the painter end up getting on there?
Two. And he said he did a block sand between coats.
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bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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bodgemaster
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UTC quote
Color sanding and buffing will make a huge difference in the appearance. If there were three coats on there I'd say go for it, but with two best to leave it. The last thing you want to do is blow through the finish. The texture may flatten down some over time.
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UTC quote
Was thinking about how I would protect the paint from the trim...

tape on the edges of the trim would allow it slip without scratching the paint. clear packing? blue?

when doing the aluminum roll on trim large rubber bands made from inner tubes are normally used to hold it in place while rolling. could keep it in place while removing the tape and screwing it down.
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
Was thinking about how I would protect the paint from the trim...

tape on the edges of the trim would allow it slip without scratching the paint. clear packing? blue?

when doing the aluminum roll on trim large rubber bands made from inner tubes are normally used to hold it in place while rolling. could keep it in place while removing the tape and screwing it down.
When I fitted it with the primer on, it went on ok, but when I took it off, there were spots where it scraped away the paint.

I moved it around a lot to position the floor rails, and reshape it a bit, though.

The design of it is like that. It holds on in the front with a sharp edge, and in the rear with screws. It's treacherous for paint.
It went on well
It went on well
after removing
after removing
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UTC quote
I used construction paper and purple painters tape on the Ss180. I still scratched a few small bits spots, but it worked well overall.

FWIW
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Slow. But progress.
OMG. This thing is amazing. I borrowed from Geeklion. <3
OMG. This thing is amazing. I borrowed from Geeklion. <3
I hadn't actually looked under the bike. It looks good!
I hadn't actually looked under the bike. It looks good!
One rail. It looks so nice! 

Dry fitting the rails was really hard! But now they fit perfect, and go right on.
One rail. It looks so nice! Dry fitting the rails was really hard! But now they fit perfect, and go right on.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
I countersunk the rivets in the dry fit, and that working well.
I countersunk the rivets in the dry fit, and that working well.
So they fit right into place. This set is all domed ones.
So they fit right into place. This set is all domed ones.
A before shot.
A before shot.
And after! You can't tell the metal has been replaced.
And after! You can't tell the metal has been replaced.
There's a slight bit of seam visible here, but subtle. This must have happened when the paint shop fixed the top rail holes I drilled wrong.

I love the waffle things!!
There's a slight bit of seam visible here, but subtle. This must have happened when the paint shop fixed the top rail holes I drilled wrong. I love the waffle things!!
I'll do the rest over the weekend.

The white paint really looks nice with all the silver and black trim. Happy I kept it the original color. It's just an elaborate bath.
I'll do the rest over the weekend. The white paint really looks nice with all the silver and black trim. Happy I kept it the original color. It's just an elaborate bath.
How beautiful is this? omg.
How beautiful is this? omg.
⚠️ Last edited by hjo on UTC; edited 1 time
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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UTC quote
Looks great! Prefitting the rails was worth all the effort and more. Nice n easy now. I'm glad the tool is working out. IMHO, it is the only way to do this job properly
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
GeekLion wrote:
Looks great! Prefitting the rails was worth all the effort and more. Nice n easy now. I'm glad the tool is working out. IMHO, it is the only way to do this job properly
It's amazing. I love it.

On my P, I just used a ball peen hammer. And it turned out ok, but the waffle pattern and pinch is one of those original details that always gets lost.

Being able to recreate it really makes me happy.

And the tool is very easy to use.

I guess the waffle is there not for style, but to grip on the rivet. and works much easier than pressing with one hand and hammering with the other.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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Lucky
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UTC quote
This thing is coming together so nicely! I love it!

And the before n' after of the tunnel repair is an excellent reminder of how far you've come.

Keep up the amazing work.
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Looks ace!
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Molto Verboso
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Oh wow. The rails took me a whole day.

Why are floor rails harder than rebuilding an engine?

But It turned out ok.

I obsess over it. Then come back, and things look nice to me.

This was a real challenge, bc the new floor panel had none of the holes for the rails. And the rails needed a lot of modification to fit.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
This side is almost perfect. The replacement floorboard is a different shape, and had to bend more.
This side is almost perfect. The replacement floorboard is a different shape, and had to bend more.
Inside curve. The rivet heads didn't get damaged at all.

There is a slight gap on the outer two. I could not figure out how to bend them so they were perfectly flush.
Inside curve. The rivet heads didn't get damaged at all. There is a slight gap on the outer two. I could not figure out how to bend them so they were perfectly flush.
Six.
Six.
This side isn't as perfect. And the rail came this way. It was the better of the two sets I got. 

I destroyed a couple, and had to get a second set.
This side isn't as perfect. And the rail came this way. It was the better of the two sets I got. I destroyed a couple, and had to get a second set.
There's a little warp on the inside, too.

But the rivets look nice. I honestly don't know how perfect these were from the factory.
There's a little warp on the inside, too. But the rivets look nice. I honestly don't know how perfect these were from the factory.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
I hope that's ok. Are they even? Argh. I think the middle ones are too long.
I hope that's ok. Are they even? Argh. I think the middle ones are too long.
I love the waffles.
I love the waffles.
The length is really important. Some I made too long, and they bent over. But they still work.
The length is really important. Some I made too long, and they bent over. But they still work.
This is the only damage from installing them. Slight scratch here.
This is the only damage from installing them. Slight scratch here.
ok. stand.
ok. stand.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Is this sacrilege?

Originally, there are no washers, but It freaks me out to not have them. I'll think about it before tightening them down.
Is this sacrilege? Originally, there are no washers, but It freaks me out to not have them. I'll think about it before tightening them down.
It has legs.
It has legs.
The seam is more noticeable than it was, which I guess I can live with. 

I had it almost perfect, but drilled holes in the wrong place. When the paint shop fixed the holes, they didn't skim coat it as seamlessly as it was. 

But it's not too bad.
The seam is more noticeable than it was, which I guess I can live with. I had it almost perfect, but drilled holes in the wrong place. When the paint shop fixed the holes, they didn't skim coat it as seamlessly as it was. But it's not too bad.
It looks nice in sunlight. and lol. I just noticed a little dent in the legshield I hadn't caught. :)
It looks nice in sunlight. and lol. I just noticed a little dent in the legshield I hadn't caught. :)
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Parmakit Primavera -74, Polini Primavera -68, VR-One 228 150 Touring -59, VMC 177 Bajaj Chetak 125 -95
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@finyoshi avatar
Parmakit Primavera -74, Polini Primavera -68, VR-One 228 150 Touring -59, VMC 177 Bajaj Chetak 125 -95
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UTC quote
I really doubt the rails were even near that perfect from the factory
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@birdsnest avatar
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Looks amaze!!!!
Really great. Love watching it come together.

(Now get rid of the washers.)
@chandlerman avatar
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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@chandlerman avatar
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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49 Days Since Last Explosion
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It just keeps looking better and better.

Plus, you now know why we all bitch so much about floor rails! Razz emoticon
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UTC quote
FINYoshi wrote:
I really doubt the rails were even near that perfect from the factory
Yup, total giveaway, they never shipped that nice.

On the center stand there should be some spring steel tabs that go between the stand and the frame, keeps it from rattling and wearing on the paint.
edit: part number is 174880, it shows up in the P parts manual but not earlier, But I seem to be sure I've seen it on older bikes.

For the bolts I use stainless and spin the face of it in the lathe with a bit of a chamfer top and bottom, then install with no washer. Do the same for the front fender nuts even though no one can see them (but I have had one person notice).

Be happy to turn some for you.
OP
@hjo avatar
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
Yup, total giveaway, they never shipped that nice.

On the center stand there should be some spring steel tabs that go between the stand and the frame, keeps it from rattling and wearing on the paint.
edit: part number is 174880
ooh. Thanks! I'll order that. It's good to have something as a friction surface on the stand that isn't paint, too.

I think the bolts I have are ok.

I was thinking of throwing in the engine and fork today, but I guess I'll wait.

I should probably make the wiring harness before putting in the fork and engine. It doesn't really get in the way of the engine, but the fork, for sure.
Looking at Bar Italia for reference, they say the hardware is made by Lobo, which is actually still around.
Looking at Bar Italia for reference, they say the hardware is made by Lobo, which is actually still around.
I can't even read the bolts from the before photo.
I can't even read the bolts from the before photo.
I think these are the hardware from the stand and fender. 

They say "3F 8.8" and JH 8.8"
I think these are the hardware from the stand and fender. They say "3F 8.8" and JH 8.8"
The ones I got say "YL M 8.8."

They're pretty nice. Zinc plated. And identical except for the brand mark. I guess you lose points for that.
The ones I got say "YL M 8.8." They're pretty nice. Zinc plated. And identical except for the brand mark. I guess you lose points for that.
The bolt has a rounded, raised area, as a contact surface. I guess better this digging in to the paint than the sharp edges of the hex bolt.
The bolt has a rounded, raised area, as a contact surface. I guess better this digging in to the paint than the sharp edges of the hex bolt.
Are these decals from Scooterwest good quality?

The German shops don't even sell the silver ones.
Are these decals from Scooterwest good quality? The German shops don't even sell the silver ones.
I'm guessing the Scooterwest ones are what Bar Italia used for this one. When I searched for the stickers, I saw a post with Bar Italia recommending them.
I'm guessing the Scooterwest ones are what Bar Italia used for this one. When I searched for the stickers, I saw a post with Bar Italia recommending them.
Does this look wrong? There's a P and pre-P version of this bracket. They're the same, but the P version is a bit less curved.
Does this look wrong? There's a P and pre-P version of this bracket. They're the same, but the P version is a bit less curved.
I might try mounting the rack to see if it sits right with this one.
I might try mounting the rack to see if it sits right with this one.
I love it.
I love it.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
<3 <3 <3
<3 <3 <3
@oopsclunkthud avatar
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UTC quote
The lobo ones are "correct"

Here's the modified stainless
2 min of work, now that I think of it I should put them on my Rally
2 min of work, now that I think of it I should put them on my Rally
@cdevillasante avatar
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1979 P200, 1960 Lambretta s2, 1975 Rally 200
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@cdevillasante avatar
1979 P200, 1960 Lambretta s2, 1975 Rally 200
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UTC quote
so cool looking tight!
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