Modern Vespa

I've run the clutch on the right sometimes, but I think stock is on the left. Taking a look at my GS and from a flashlight between the headset and frame on my Rally:

I adhere to the same map of shift shift clutch because that's how I've always seen them. on drop headsets or some other such nonsense I'll run the clutch from the RH side.

Thanks for the diagram!

I need to move things.

I put the main harness and throttle cable on the other side of the lock.

I wonder if the harness is ok. it's not going to be easy to change that.

And the clutch on the wrong side.

The choke has an old cable end stuck in it. Is there a trick to that?

IMHO a Rally looks great with a Madrid rack…

Although I don't know if it would work with the US taillight…

I don't think it would. The US rack is the only one that does.

On the other rally I have, I think I'll use the euro taillight and bar end indicators.

This one seemed appropriate to do all us spec, bc it had all the parts, and they are so rare.

More!

Taking shape

You continue to do great work. Keep it up. You're in the home stretch

Looking great!!!


And very sorry for the bad 411 on the the throttle cable routing. Mine on the SS must have been wrong. 😬

I doubt I've ever done it right.

I think on the PX, the openings are bigger though. Those American Rally headsets cram so much into a tiny space, and the openings are so small.

I feel like all the bikes that were first made in the 60's have the tiny openings because they had so much less wiring up to the headset. I just open 'em up before I paint now. It makes a world of difference.

Rounding third base, headed for home! That thing is so gorgeous in white and you'll soon be riding with a huge grin all over your face.

GOGOGOGOGO!

You got this.

Need help

Sunday

Yellow, speedo cable. Red, brake cable (comes out from the end of the fork tube)…

Thanks! I had it reversed!

Clock the screws on the fender, I normally go horizontal for lower drag.

They're in down draft mode

Looking PHENOMENAL hjo!!!!

Figured out the wiring on the battery side. It's so hacky.

They had to add all these things like turn signals and a key switch, so they just have multiple color wires and splitters at the same terminals.

Almost there. But I know where everything goes, thanks to photos from a friend with a 1974.

Hopefully the rectifier works. I know the femsa box does.

Why do so many people convert to other electronic ignition? Is the femsa bad?

I had the stator rebuilt by Scooterwest, so hopefully with all the electrical refreshed and LED lights, it works.

I only converted mine vespatronic because I could not get the femsa to be reliable. Would have converted it to points from a Rally 180 if that was available.

What was it doing that wasn't reliable? Like spark?

no spark, then fine, then none... rewired, new pick up, replaced coil, tried the ducati coil fix...

In the end I just wanted to ride it. But I did make sure it was fully reversible.

I hope mine works!

Original FEMSA was pretty ugly. Perhaps 3d print a cover to make it more like original shape.

just looked back at the picture of your femsa coil, looks like the plug lead has been cut off. they are cast in / not replaceable.

Yep. There's about 3/4 of an inch there. I got a new lead wire, and am hoping it's enough to splice. The plan is to thread a screw, similar to the NGK plug cap into both sides, and put heat shrink on the outside.

I have another Femsa, but I haven't tested it, and it got all bleached out in the sun.

This one kept the original color so well. I want to try to save it.

How about soldering new lead to old, then some liquid electrical tape in that repair area, then heat shrink tubing with adhesive. If you keep liquid tape in repair area should keep bulk down.

I like using marine grade when I have it. Seals up repair and provides a little mechanical bonding between parts.

https://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12169054043&campaignid=12169054043&utm_content=125548918308&adsetid=125548918308&product=67598&store=359&gclid=CjwKCAjwm8WZBhBUEiwA178UnMOuACDmtpTnrvRmTUSE-MF1PQ5LrNs3yLrG8_GKN5-D0ZO4bxJBXxoC-QkQAvD_BwE

I know somebody sells a sleeve that's not much larger diameter than the plug wire and it's got the male/screw in on both sides. I've used one of those with some heatshrink and it worked a treat.

I've also used this style with some shrink and got acceptable results as well

Yes! Something like this!

I was hoping someone makes something like this, but with a plate in the center. I pictured that being what a plug wire splice would be. But haven't seen one.

I had never heard of liquid electrical tape! I think it's too delicate to solder. It would melt the lead wire insulation.

Greasy. I can't find anything like the one you posted, even with image search. Do you know where to buy one of those?

fleabay has you covered

And, yeah, I love liquid electrical tape. I've seen it (and plasti-dip) in the paint section at Home Depot if you're having trouble finding it anywhere you'd expect. i.e. with the electrical tools.

I'll order it.

It's such a strange design. Very lumpy.

I don't know why they make the center part so long and wider dimension. I gues so that it's knurled to screw it on?

LED bulbs.

Going to try them.

Does my Vespa have a positive ground or a negative ground?

I'm guessing negative.

negative ground

Thank you!!

Those bulbs look so weird!

But the incandescent ones barely work, so hopefully these prevent the battery from draining.

Negative ground means negative battery post is connected, positive ground positive battery post is connected to frame.

I don't think I've ever seen positive ground!

Me neither - what tech uses positive ground?