⚠️ Last edited by sdjohn on UTC; edited 1 time
Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8986 Location: San Diego, CA |
UTC
Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10815 Location: Nashville 255 Days Since Last Explosion |
|
Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10815 Location: Nashville 255 Days Since Last Explosion |
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
chandlerman wrote: try hanging a 19mm wrench off the flywheel to check the magnetism. |
Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8986 Location: San Diego, CA |
bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7215 Location: So Cal |
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
Ah. I guess I need to pull the flywheel.
I hope it doesn't need to be replaced. Those are not easy to find. And I had it vapor blasted. I guess I'll get the rest of the bike together. I also need to rebuild the shifter box, or replace it. It shifts, but has a lot of play in the box itself, so it's a little squishy. I guess that can be a project at any point, though. Got the speedo cable to work. That was not easy. But it's very pretty. This was BGM version. Amazing to see it attach to the 50 year old brass thing.
This choke clip thing. How does it attach? It's asymmetrical, and there's a slot, and kind of a sheet metal fin thing close to it.
Some shots in almost done shape.
⚠️ Last edited by hjo on UTC; edited 1 time
|
|
UTC
quote
You should be able to get the flywheel re-magnetized if that ends up being the issue. I know scooter west has a machine to do it but there might be someone closer to you that can do it also
|
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
brok3nr0b0t wrote: You should be able to get the flywheel re-magnetized if that ends up being the issue. I know scooter west has a machine to do it but there might be someone closer to you that can do it also
Positive
|
UTC
Addicted
1979 P200, 1960 Lambretta s2, 1975 Rally 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 580 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
Addicted
1979 P200, 1960 Lambretta s2, 1975 Rally 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 580 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
UTC
quote
Looks great! that clip is a pain but it slides over the tube where the opening is, you just gotta finagle/ wrastle it. When it finds the right spot it clicks into place.
Choke Lever clip https://www.scooterhelp.com/genmaintain/vespa.choke.cable.html |
Hooked
Polaris Grey Rally 200, Blue Marine Primavera ET3, Coral Red 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 462 Location: Melbourne |
UTC
quote
hjo wrote: Spark. No spark. I disconnected the junction box, tried my spare Femsa. Tried the green/blue/red in forward and reverse order. Checked the ground on the Femsa (it goes to a bare frame post). Nothing. Not sure what's going on. I had the stator checked and rewired by Robot. I'm sure that''s good. I don't know if I put the stator the right way. But it only seems to fit one way. And if it was the wrong way, it would probably spark, just at the wrong time, since it's all a circle. Hm. I guess I could have damaged a wire pulling it through. The grommet was hard to get through. But seemed fine. Are you sure that the femsa boxes you have are all ok? A check would be to use a Ducati Cdi if you have one lying about and use the conversion method to test if it's the box. FEMSA's can be frustrating. http://www.vespa-klub.dk/Rally_CDI.HTM I think there were some recent posts on this forum about using the Ducati Cdi. |
|
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
Rallygeek wrote: Are you sure that the femsa boxes you have are all ok? A check would be to use a Ducati Cdi if you have one lying about and use the conversion method to test if it's the box. FEMSA's can be frustrating. http://www.vespa-klub.dk/Rally_CDI.HTM I think there were some recent posts on this forum about using the Ducati Cdi. It's possible that my others are dead. Seems most likely since the stator was all checked and rewired. |
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
Rallygeek wrote: Are you sure that the femsa boxes you have are all ok? A check would be to use a Ducati Cdi if you have one lying about and use the conversion method to test if it's the box. FEMSA's can be frustrating. http://www.vespa-klub.dk/Rally_CDI.HTM I think there were some recent posts on this forum about using the Ducati Cdi. It's possible that my others are dead. Seems most likely since the stator was all checked and rewired. Got this wired.
This worked well!
|
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
I spoke to Scooterwest, who rebuilt the flywheel, and they thought it was probably the gap with the cam/pickup.
That would be really the best case. |
bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7215 Location: So Cal |
UTC
quote
SoCalGuy wrote: Check the gap between the cam and black pickup. Needs to be 0.25mm - 0.30mm. |
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
|
UTC
quote
Given your concours level restoration, have you considered sourcing mudguard reflectors?
Looks like you filled the holes... But if so, I might have a NOS reflector hack. $50 total, including Claus Studios gaskets. |
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
Yes! Also the stripes.
The silver stripes are only made by Scooterwest, and they're ordering new ones. The reflectors are impossible to find. I did find these ones. They're the same reflectors, but don't have the aluminum frame. I have to drill holes for them. Is there a better fix? I haven't touched the bike this week. Life things. |
Not So Moderator
VNB VSC VMA VSX - o9c vmb vse
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8791 Location: Hustletown, TX |
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
Birdsnest wrote: Mark (Poi Dog) may have one. I think he'd sell it… Would get you half way there. This was very last step. |
|
UTC
quote
hjo wrote: I did find these ones. They're the same reflectors, but don't have the aluminum frame. Same number lens. Screw holes match. I see now that the original frame is also wider than these Frame covers the lens edge
|
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
Does the aluminum frame wrap around the whole thing? Or just cover the front?
I might be ok with the plastic reflectors. They are so close. The reflector even has the same part number. It has a plastic back with posts that are melted around the bracket, but in the same place. I thought I might be able to file those down and thread them with a die, and use a nylon nut. It's funny. The rarest part of the Rally is little plastic reflectors that cost like 50 cents to make. |
|
UTC
quote
Those plastic nubs dremel off in seconds. Bracket lifts right off.
I drilled plastic epoxy wells in a drill press and used #4 screws. Considered using zinc came (used to wrap stained glass), rolling one side of the U flat and wrapping it. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Zinc-6ft-Came-Into-Pieces/dp/B00LLVORLU/ref=sr_1_16?crid=7XF446GKDEKM&keywords=5%2F16+round+u+came&qid=1667158377&sprefix=5%2F16+round+u+came%2Caps%2C264&sr=8-16 But the plastic is good enough for my hole covering project. And yeah, it is funny. Saw a pair on FB for $200+ that sold right away |
|
Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8986 Location: San Diego, CA |
UTC
Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547 Location: Rochester, Minnesota |
|
|
UTC
quote
Ray8 wrote: Those plastic nubs dremel off in seconds. Bracket lifts right off. I drilled plastic epoxy wells in a drill press and used #4 screws. Considered using zinc came (used to wrap stained glass), rolling one side of the U flat and wrapping it. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Zinc-6ft-Came-Into-Pieces/dp/B00LLVORLU/ref=sr_1_16?crid=7XF446GKDEKM&keywords=5%2F16+round+u+came&qid=1667158377&sprefix=5%2F16+round+u+came%2Caps%2C264&sr=8-16 But the plastic is good enough for my hole covering project. And yeah, it is funny. Saw a pair on FB for $200+ that sold right away |
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
Life has been a little chaotic, and left this.
The wires appear to be working. Attached the switches and the tail and brake lights work. The LEDs are not very bright! The material on this doesn't tap. It's not dense enough. Stripped out. Can I epoxy or super glue this maybe?
|
The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2221 Location: PNW from LBC |
UTC
quote
I did 2 of those levers to fit the brake switch post. One of them tapped ok, the other barely held the threads; same as you. So this is one rare instance where I would use...JBWeld. Pack some in, thread it and go. Held up fine for the one of mine.
|
|
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
oopsclunkthud wrote: Where did you get the reflectors from? think I may need to add them back on mine. |
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
I got some of this stuff. There store also had JB Weld, but I think this might be less messy.
The tap just stripped the metal right out. But it's super soft aluminum. It was very easy to drill. The post is such a hack thing. It's just a screw with a piece of tubing over it. |
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
The harness appears to work.
Though the LED flasher doesn't. It emits a loud tone, and the lights stay on. In the reverse position with the wires, the lights flash once, and stop. I'm not sure how the electrical works. There are three positions for the lights. One turns on the tail light. The brake works in all three. And the high beam indicator does too, so I might have put a wire in the wrong place on the switch. Switches. Working even.
The horn isn't. But I think it might need to be adjusted.
But the lights are connected.
Everything but the speedo wire, which was upstairs.
The high beam indicator is red, for some reason. It's so funny how this works. It's a bulb that lights up the whole inside of the headset.
ok. the switch just pushed the post out. This did not work. But the epoxy takes a day to set, so hopefully it's better tomorrow.
The switch cover is the only thing with original patina.
|
UTC
Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547 Location: Rochester, Minnesota |
|
|
UTC
quote
hjo wrote: Life has been a little chaotic, and left this. The wires appear to be working. Attached the switches and the tail and brake lights work. The LEDs are not very bright! |
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
Christopher_55934 wrote: Is there enough material to insert a helicoil or thread repair kit? I've done that previously in aluminum when I had this issue. My tap set didn't seem to work, partly because the taper before it threads is too deep, but also the material is so soft, when it got to the threads, it just stripped right away. It might work better to make like a dowel in a lathe that is the same shape. This is such a hacky thing. Just a screw tapped in. |
|
UTC
quote
Pretty sure you'd have better luck with this setup.
With epoxy thread repair and some under the plate it'll outlast us all. Works
|
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
All the lights work.
I must have wired the switch wrong. The taillight comes on in one position, but the headlight is on when the key is on. I think the headlight should only come on when the taillight is on. But I am not sure what the three switch positions are. 0 miles. I hope this isn't a problem registering it.
|
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
This thing is such an ordeal. It will eventually get there.
Something seemed strange about my back wheel, and it looks like it is warped, somehow. It's an original Piaggio rim, but a vintage one. Also, I tried to bold down the exhaust, and the caged nut is stripped. It's like every single thing. :: |
UTC
Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10815 Location: Nashville 255 Days Since Last Explosion |
|
Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10815 Location: Nashville 255 Days Since Last Explosion |
UTC
quote
It could be worse. It could be the axle.
Frustrating, I know, but comes with the territory. Replacing the caged nut isn't a big deal. It's a great concept when it works, but that's a maddeningly low percentage of the time. |
Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, PX200 O tuned, PX181 M1XL, PX125 O tuned and some motorbikes
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4801 Location: London UK |
UTC
quote
hjo wrote: This thing is such an ordeal. It will eventually get there. Something seemed strange about my back wheel, and it looks like it is warped, somehow. It's an original Piaggio rim, but a vintage one. Also, I tried to bold down the exhaust, and the caged nut is stripped. It's like every single thing. :: |
OP
Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
Jack221 wrote: Not much to worry about on a stock build. However, that clicking sounds like gear misalignment. If it is, extra gaskets under the selector box usually fix it. |
Modern Vespa is the premier site for modern Vespa and Piaggio scooters. Vespa GTS300, GTS250, GTV, GT200, LX150, LXS, ET4, ET2, MP3, Fuoco, Elettrica and more.