@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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Johnny Two Tone
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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UTC quote
simple check hang a wrench from each flywheel magnet (just one wrench, move it around). 17mm i think, but you get the idea, it has to hold up the wrench or it's not strong enough.
⚠️ Last edited by sdjohn on UTC; edited 1 time
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
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Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
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255 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
try hanging a 19mm wrench off the flywheel to check the magnetism.
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
try hanging a 19mm wrench off the flywheel to check the magnetism.
Just on the outside?
@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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Johnny Two Tone
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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UTC quote
on each magnet on the inside, like in this photo (thanks scooterwest):

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
@socalguy avatar
UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
@socalguy avatar
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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UTC quote
Check the gap between the cam and black pickup. Needs to be 0.25mm - 0.30mm.
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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UTC quote
Ah. I guess I need to pull the flywheel.

I hope it doesn't need to be replaced. Those are not easy to find. And I had it vapor blasted.

I guess I'll get the rest of the bike together.

I also need to rebuild the shifter box, or replace it. It shifts, but has a lot of play in the box itself, so it's a little squishy.

I guess that can be a project at any point, though.
Got the speedo cable to work. That was not easy. But it's very pretty. This was BGM version. Amazing to see it attach to the 50 year old brass thing.
Got the speedo cable to work. That was not easy. But it's very pretty. This was BGM version. Amazing to see it attach to the 50 year old brass thing.
This choke clip thing. How does it attach? It's asymmetrical, and there's a slot, and kind of a sheet metal fin thing close to it.
This choke clip thing. How does it attach? It's asymmetrical, and there's a slot, and kind of a sheet metal fin thing close to it.
Some shots in almost done shape.
Some shots in almost done shape.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
⚠️ Last edited by hjo on UTC; edited 1 time
@brok3nr0b0t avatar
UTC

Hooked
'71 Sprint Veloce
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Posts: 285
Location: SoCal
 
Hooked
@brok3nr0b0t avatar
'71 Sprint Veloce
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UTC quote
You should be able to get the flywheel re-magnetized if that ends up being the issue. I know scooter west has a machine to do it but there might be someone closer to you that can do it also
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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UTC quote
brok3nr0b0t wrote:
You should be able to get the flywheel re-magnetized if that ends up being the issue. I know scooter west has a machine to do it but there might be someone closer to you that can do it also
I love Scooterwest. They rebuilt my stator. And most of the parts are from there.
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1979 P200, 1960 Lambretta s2, 1975 Rally 200
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Posts: 580
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1979 P200, 1960 Lambretta s2, 1975 Rally 200
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Posts: 580
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
Looks great! that clip is a pain but it slides over the tube where the opening is, you just gotta finagle/ wrastle it. When it finds the right spot it clicks into place.
Choke Lever clip
https://www.scooterhelp.com/genmaintain/vespa.choke.cable.html
@rallygeek avatar
UTC

Hooked
Polaris Grey Rally 200, Blue Marine Primavera ET3, Coral Red 50 Special
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Location: Melbourne
 
Hooked
@rallygeek avatar
Polaris Grey Rally 200, Blue Marine Primavera ET3, Coral Red 50 Special
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UTC quote
hjo wrote:
Spark. No spark.

I disconnected the junction box, tried my spare Femsa. Tried the green/blue/red in forward and reverse order. Checked the ground on the Femsa (it goes to a bare frame post).

Nothing.

Not sure what's going on.

I had the stator checked and rewired by Robot. I'm sure that''s good.

I don't know if I put the stator the right way. But it only seems to fit one way.

And if it was the wrong way, it would probably spark, just at the wrong time, since it's all a circle.

Hm. I guess I could have damaged a wire pulling it through. The grommet was hard to get through. But seemed fine.
The bike is looking great.


Are you sure that the femsa boxes you have are all ok? A check would be to use a Ducati Cdi if you have one lying about and use the conversion method to test if it's the box. FEMSA's can be frustrating.

http://www.vespa-klub.dk/Rally_CDI.HTM I think there were some recent posts on this forum about using the Ducati Cdi.
@orwell84 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
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Location: northern New York
 
Ossessionato
@orwell84 avatar
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UTC quote
Hang in there, you will get it. What a beauty.
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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UTC quote
Rallygeek wrote:
Are you sure that the femsa boxes you have are all ok? A check would be to use a Ducati Cdi if you have one lying about and use the conversion method to test if it's the box. FEMSA's can be frustrating.

http://www.vespa-klub.dk/Rally_CDI.HTM I think there were some recent posts on this forum about using the Ducati Cdi.
Thanks. This looks complicated. But I'll try it. I have a Ducati cdi, and a third femsa box I can try.

It's possible that my others are dead.

Seems most likely since the stator was all checked and rewired.
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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UTC quote
Rallygeek wrote:
Are you sure that the femsa boxes you have are all ok? A check would be to use a Ducati Cdi if you have one lying about and use the conversion method to test if it's the box. FEMSA's can be frustrating.

http://www.vespa-klub.dk/Rally_CDI.HTM I think there were some recent posts on this forum about using the Ducati Cdi.
Thanks. This looks complicated. But I'll try it. I have a Ducati cdi, and a third femsa box I can try.

It's possible that my others are dead.

Seems most likely since the stator was all checked and rewired.
Got this wired.
Got this wired.
This worked well!
This worked well!
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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UTC quote
I spoke to Scooterwest, who rebuilt the flywheel, and they thought it was probably the gap with the cam/pickup.

That would be really the best case.
@socalguy avatar
UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
@socalguy avatar
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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UTC quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
Check the gap between the cam and black pickup. Needs to be 0.25mm - 0.30mm.
Ahem ... ^
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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UTC quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
Ahem ... ^
You called it!!
@ray8 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
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Location: Los Angeles
 
Ossessionato
@ray8 avatar
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UTC quote
Given your concours level restoration, have you considered sourcing mudguard reflectors?
Looks like you filled the holes...

But if so, I might have a NOS reflector hack.
$50 total, including Claus Studios gaskets.
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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UTC quote
Yes! Also the stripes.

The silver stripes are only made by Scooterwest, and they're ordering new ones.

The reflectors are impossible to find.

I did find these ones. They're the same reflectors, but don't have the aluminum frame.

I have to drill holes for them.

Is there a better fix?

I haven't touched the bike this week. Life things.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@birdsnest avatar
UTC

Not So Moderator
VNB VSC VMA VSX - o9c vmb vse
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Not So Moderator
@birdsnest avatar
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UTC quote
Mark (Poi Dog) may have one.
I think he'd sell it…
Would get you half way there.
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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UTC quote
Birdsnest wrote:
Mark (Poi Dog) may have one.
I think he'd sell it…
Would get you half way there.
I have a friend who may have a set. I'll ask him.

This was very last step.
@ray8 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
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Location: Los Angeles
 
Ossessionato
@ray8 avatar
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UTC quote
hjo wrote:
I did find these ones. They're the same reflectors, but don't have the aluminum frame.

That's the very same hack.
Same number lens. Screw holes match.

I see now that the original frame is also wider than these
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Frame covers the lens edge
Frame covers the lens edge
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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UTC quote
Does the aluminum frame wrap around the whole thing? Or just cover the front?

I might be ok with the plastic reflectors. They are so close. The reflector even has the same part number.

It has a plastic back with posts that are melted around the bracket, but in the same place.

I thought I might be able to file those down and thread them with a die, and use a nylon nut.

It's funny. The rarest part of the Rally is little plastic reflectors that cost like 50 cents to make.
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@ray8 avatar
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Ossessionato
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UTC quote
Those plastic nubs dremel off in seconds. Bracket lifts right off.

I drilled plastic epoxy wells in a drill press and used #4 screws.
Considered using zinc came (used to wrap stained glass), rolling one side of the U flat and wrapping it. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Zinc-6ft-Came-Into-Pieces/dp/B00LLVORLU/ref=sr_1_16?crid=7XF446GKDEKM&keywords=5%2F16+round+u+came&qid=1667158377&sprefix=5%2F16+round+u+came%2Caps%2C264&sr=8-16

But the plastic is good enough for my hole covering project.

And yeah, it is funny. Saw a pair on FB for $200+ that sold right away
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@oopsclunkthud avatar
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UTC quote
if you don't have holes in the fender I'd use 3M double sided tape.
@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8986
Location: San Diego, CA
 
Johnny Two Tone
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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UTC quote
there's always shoe goo....
@christopher_55934 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
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Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Ossessionato
@christopher_55934 avatar
2007 Stella 225
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UTC quote
Ray8 wrote:
Those plastic nubs dremel off in seconds. Bracket lifts right off.

I drilled plastic epoxy wells in a drill press and used #4 screws.
Considered using zinc came (used to wrap stained glass), rolling one side of the U flat and wrapping it. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Zinc-6ft-Came-Into-Pieces/dp/B00LLVORLU/ref=sr_1_16?crid=7XF446GKDEKM&keywords=5%2F16+round+u+came&qid=1667158377&sprefix=5%2F16+round+u+came%2Caps%2C264&sr=8-16

But the plastic is good enough for my hole covering project.

And yeah, it is funny. Saw a pair on FB for $200+ that sold right away
If you don't use some odd metric size like a 4.5mm it's considered a bog fix.
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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UTC quote
Life has been a little chaotic, and left this.

The wires appear to be working. Attached the switches and the tail and brake lights work.

The LEDs are not very bright!
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
The material on this doesn't tap. It's not dense enough. Stripped out. Can I epoxy or super glue this maybe?
The material on this doesn't tap. It's not dense enough. Stripped out. Can I epoxy or super glue this maybe?
@geeklion avatar
UTC

The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2221
Location: PNW from LBC
 
The Dude
@geeklion avatar
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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UTC quote
I did 2 of those levers to fit the brake switch post. One of them tapped ok, the other barely held the threads; same as you. So this is one rare instance where I would use...JBWeld. Pack some in, thread it and go. Held up fine for the one of mine.
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UTC quote
Where did you get the reflectors from? think I may need to add them back on mine.
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
Where did you get the reflectors from? think I may need to add them back on mine.
Treatland, if I remember. They're wheel reflectors from Italian mopeds.
OP
@hjo avatar
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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UTC quote
I got some of this stuff. There store also had JB Weld, but I think this might be less messy.

The tap just stripped the metal right out. But it's super soft aluminum. It was very easy to drill.

The post is such a hack thing. It's just a screw with a piece of tubing over it.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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UTC quote
The harness appears to work.

Though the LED flasher doesn't. It emits a loud tone, and the lights stay on.

In the reverse position with the wires, the lights flash once, and stop.

I'm not sure how the electrical works. There are three positions for the lights. One turns on the tail light. The brake works in all three. And the high beam indicator does too, so I might have put a wire in the wrong place on the switch.
Switches. Working even.

The horn isn't. But I think it might need to be adjusted.
Switches. Working even. The horn isn't. But I think it might need to be adjusted.
But the lights are connected.
But the lights are connected.
Everything but the speedo wire, which was upstairs.
Everything but the speedo wire, which was upstairs.
The high beam indicator is red, for some reason. It's so funny how this works. It's a bulb that lights up the whole inside of the headset.
The high beam indicator is red, for some reason. It's so funny how this works. It's a bulb that lights up the whole inside of the headset.
ok. the switch just pushed the post out. This did not work. But the epoxy takes a day to set, so hopefully it's better tomorrow.
ok. the switch just pushed the post out. This did not work. But the epoxy takes a day to set, so hopefully it's better tomorrow.
The switch cover is the only thing with original patina.
The switch cover is the only thing with original patina.
@christopher_55934 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Ossessionato
@christopher_55934 avatar
2007 Stella 225
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UTC quote
hjo wrote:
Life has been a little chaotic, and left this.

The wires appear to be working. Attached the switches and the tail and brake lights work.

The LEDs are not very bright!
Is there enough material to insert a helicoil or thread repair kit? I've done that previously in aluminum when I had this issue.
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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UTC quote
Christopher_55934 wrote:
Is there enough material to insert a helicoil or thread repair kit? I've done that previously in aluminum when I had this issue.
Not for this size screw.

My tap set didn't seem to work, partly because the taper before it threads is too deep, but also the material is so soft, when it got to the threads, it just stripped right away.

It might work better to make like a dowel in a lathe that is the same shape.

This is such a hacky thing. Just a screw tapped in.
@ray8 avatar
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UTC quote
Pretty sure you'd have better luck with this setup.

With epoxy thread repair and some under the plate it'll outlast us all.
Works
Works
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
All the lights work.

I must have wired the switch wrong.

The taillight comes on in one position, but the headlight is on when the key is on.

I think the headlight should only come on when the taillight is on. But I am not sure what the three switch positions are.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
0 miles. I hope this isn't a problem registering it.
0 miles. I hope this isn't a problem registering it.
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Posts: 1847
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Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
This thing is such an ordeal. It will eventually get there.

Something seemed strange about my back wheel, and it looks like it is warped, somehow.

It's an original Piaggio rim, but a vintage one.

Also, I tried to bold down the exhaust, and the caged nut is stripped.

It's like every single thing. ::

@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
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Location: Nashville

255 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
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255 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
It could be worse. It could be the axle.

Frustrating, I know, but comes with the territory.

Replacing the caged nut isn't a big deal. It's a great concept when it works, but that's a maddeningly low percentage of the time.
UTC

Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, PX200 O tuned, PX181 M1XL, PX125 O tuned and some motorbikes
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Posts: 4801
Location: London UK
 
Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, PX200 O tuned, PX181 M1XL, PX125 O tuned and some motorbikes
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UTC quote
hjo wrote:
This thing is such an ordeal. It will eventually get there.

Something seemed strange about my back wheel, and it looks like it is warped, somehow.

It's an original Piaggio rim, but a vintage one.

Also, I tried to bold down the exhaust, and the caged nut is stripped.

It's like every single thing. ::

Not much to worry about on a stock build. However, that clicking sounds like gear misalignment. If it is, extra gaskets under the selector box usually fix it.
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
Jack221 wrote:
Not much to worry about on a stock build. However, that clicking sounds like gear misalignment. If it is, extra gaskets under the selector box usually fix it.
I think it's the selector box. When I shift, the selector gear has a lot of play. It moves up and down where the cables attach
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