Modern Vespa

Off to blast and powder coat (silver parts).

The shop gave a recommendation for a welder I will check out.

Looking good! Love following these types of threads!

The spot welders that did the factory welds were likely beasts that hung from girders by chains. Modern shops have smaller versions that are really expensive and some might have some old school types. Smart to farm it out if you are feeling out of your depth and keep your project rolling. Getting the yips and quitting on the home stretch happens to many people who lose their mo. Sometimes it's just worth the money or the beer you buy to get it done. I burned up tons of stuff learning and occasionally still do. Sometimes I'm in the zone but other days it just all goes to shit, especially when I'm nervous and thinking...my precious...

The powder coating place recommended this place.

https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/custom-metal-manufacturing-company-belmont?select=ejNnNApwbJY1auDeIebBEg

It's like this kind of shop.

Still going to practice a bit more on the mig welder.

My big concern with the welder is that they won't be familiar, and would require a lot of explanation. Maybe it's kind of self explanatory.

But doing it myself would require buying a 220v spot welder I use once. And very possible I could mess up the project.

I think you'll be ok. The spot welds are pretty straightforward and they will know how to use it. My 73 bus was assembled the same way by people with huge spot welders before the robots came. Trust me, I have the 220 version of that spot welder and it would suck ass on that thick tunnel metal. It might make a dimple and some of them may even stick a little bit but your money is better spent having pros do it with a real machine.

It looks like they do some more delicate type work. Hopefully they can do seamless welds on the replacement sheets.

I can collect photos and make notes.

Watching this. The spot welder is super heavy duty.

One from Harbor Frieght or Home Depot seems like bad idea.

youtube.com/watch?v=trG5-15i9_E

Someone posted a video of a master welder replacing a legshield with tig welding. I can't find it!

Worst case scenario, you might get a little distortion where the legshield is welded but likely not much. It's thick metal and has a lot of shape stamped in that will resist warping. Maybe a bit of hammer and dolly work at the most.

A little progress. Got all the parts to rebuild the front fork/link/axle.

Cheering for you here. Can't wait to see how stuff looks coming back from the welder.

As for hardware, I guess it depends on fit and quality. A lot of my bus stuff I just get really clean, especially the threads and soak them in Ospho. I make sure threaded inserts, nuts etc are all clean and sometimes a little WD-40 depending on where it is. Torqued bolts I sometimes replace. You can tell by feel when tightening if they are no longer good.

I like the old hardware. I got it all very clean with electrolysis. Was thinking of replating with zinc, but it's very complicated and toxic.

I think I'll just lightly coat with beeswax.

Back from blasting.

The rust is so insidious. There's still a bit left in pits, and like along the horn cast. They recommended blasting again when the welding is done. I hope that's not too much blasting.

The metal looks better than I expected, though.

I'd hit that rust with Ospho. Galvanize it, which you should do anyway, and go on.

Can I put epoxy primer over Ospho?

Yup. I did Ospho, then DTM Epoxy primer, then high-build primer, then paint when I did my GL.

It turned out better than I had any right to expect.

I'll take pictures in the daylight. There's still quite a bit of rust (or rust discoloration) in spots. It really abraded the surface, too. the texture is rough. but there are pits the sand didn't quite reach.

I was thinking I might epoxy the areas on the frame that don't need metal work, but not sure yet. The blast/powder coat place suggested to just do the work, then lightly clean it up with a quick blast after.

I have to epoxy the inside parts of the frame.

I'll get some Ospho!

The silver parts are growing on me.

Engine looks amazing!

The vapor blasting worked out well!

These new wheel bearings come sealed. The old ones aren't.

Do you just remove the seals?

Nope, I embrace the technological improvements since 1974.

Is there a grease zerk in the center? I've pulled inside seals and left the outside seal.

The original one is still there, but I left the interior dry. I'm running a GPS for speedo, so no speedo gear, and sealed bearings on both sides.

I like to pop the covers and repack them with grease, then put the covers back on. They may be sealed, but sometimes the grease is very minimal.

The bottom bracket of my fat tire bike always needs packing because of riding on the beach.

Looks fantastic, well done!

There's a grease zerk. Originally, the whole thing was filled with grease. There's a seal on the hub side, and a threaded grease cap on the other. It needs grease inside, bc there's a speedo gear.

So if I keep those, on, I guess I'll fill it with grease anyway?

The puzzle.

All the fork and hub parts are so complex. I want to be sure I have them all right. Got a few new ones, and the old ones are in this tub of parts.

Courtesy mr.10:

thanks! this is so helpful!

Always use the old original parts as long as they aren't damaged.

Using Ospho or similar to etch is a good idea. Just make sure to clean off the residue it leaves as it can cause problems with primer adhesion. Figured you knew that already, but just in case...I like priming over a sandblasted surface. Great adhesion.

I am getting some!

Was hoping to build the front end today, but hit snags.

The spring pivot is really hard! I have no idea how to get the rubber seals and washer in there. I'm guessing the new ones are denser rubber, and they just don't want to fit in there.

The fork pivot bearings are impossible to get out.

Guess I'll go back to the shop space.

Since I have all these, I will use them.

As much as I respect your idea of recreating a US-spec scoot, the reality is the US signals are kind of a pain in the butt. The stalks - especially the rear ones - are prone to vibration and getting bumped, and need a good amount of regular fiddling to work right. If you don't mind dealing with that, great.

Have you decided on a color?

A speedo stuck at 70 can only be a good omen.

Oh yeah. Those things are such a pain.

The design is super awkward. Protruding at right angles from brackets. So slapped on.

I am having such a hard time deciding on color, I think I'll just restore it to its original state. That alpine white color.

I have a spare Rally engine. I think Might build another one when this one is complete. And do it Euro spec.

This was a bike that I originally loved bc it was all original, but was in such bad condition. It's the most elaborate project ever.

With my p200 I rebuilt, I make it look as close as I could to the 1970s American ad they used.

And it came out pretty well.

But did you wear either of those two sweet outfits while you rode it around?

On you way to Studio 54?

I think white looks great on a Vespa. My px150 clone was white.

Your scooter will be quite the gem. You will always be turning around to take a last look at it when you're walking away. Just don't get that haircut.