OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
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UTC quote
No before photo, but this thing was covered in half an inch of slime.

Never thought to clean one of these up, but it is original to the bike. Kind of halfway there.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Science.
Science.
A lot of the carbon came off with a brush, the rest slowly comes off in chunks.
A lot of the carbon came off with a brush, the rest slowly comes off in chunks.
You could probably determine the number of miles from just analyzing this. Like tree rings.

The most exterior carbon dates to 1974.
You could probably determine the number of miles from just analyzing this. Like tree rings. The most exterior carbon dates to 1974.
OP
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
These are absolutely impossible to find.

I will try to find a shop that can reconstruct this one.

The headlight ring, too. There are just none out there.
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@rallygeek avatar
UTC

Hooked
Polaris Grey Rally 200, Blue Marine Primavera ET3, Coral Red 50 Special
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Location: Melbourne
 
Hooked
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UTC quote
You can get the reflector re-plated if you wish. The glass is held on by small tabs that you gently open up.
@safis avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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Ossessionato
@safis avatar
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UTC quote
No tabs on this one. It's a US spec sealed beam headlight. Different than the ones we have on our side of the pond...
@socalguy avatar
UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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bodgemaster
@socalguy avatar
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UTC quote
Unless you're planning to enter a concourse competition, I don't think anyone will fault you for going with a replacement-bulb style US headlight instead of the sealed beam.

The CEV trim ring is worth refinishing though. They're getting scarce and the repops are pretty crappy.
@geeklion avatar
UTC

The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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The Dude
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UTC quote
Scooter Mercato has an aftermarket headlight unit which uses a standard replacable BA20 Halogen bulb. Fit and function are great. I used this exact unit on a few scoots.

Glass headlight:
https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Headlight-Assemblies/114435

Bulb:
https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Bulbs/B12HLHAL

Fixing hardware: currently out of stock
https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Headlight-Assemblies/S-15221-KIT


Scooterwest also has an option, which includes the chrome ring. Good quality, but not CEV stamping. Better than no ring!

Glass headlight
https://www.scooterwest.com/usa-head-light-for-vespa-rally-sprint-super-small-frame-114345.html

Fixing hardware: in stock
https://www.scooterwest.com/screw-and-nut-set-for-usa-style-vespa-headlight-015543.html

Since you're in Greece, I'd be happy to help order/ship; if helpful. Just hit me up!
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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Lucky
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UTC quote
I have a 6v CEV sealed beam out of my Sprint you can have if that'll work.
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@safis avatar
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Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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Ossessionato
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UTC quote
GeekLion wrote:
Since you're in Greece, I'd be happy to help order/ship; if helpful. Just hit me up!
GL, thanks for the offer, but I have no need for a US headlight. I was responding to "Rallygeek" but I forgot to quote him. Our Sprint V. / Rally handlebars have the bigger EU spec headlights were the glass was held by folded tabs at the back. You could pry them open and replace the glass or the reflector (were sold as replacement parts)...

Here's my handlebars for my upcoming project and the LED headlight I'm going to use (will run full DC)...

hjo: Sorry for the small thread hijack...
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@geeklion avatar
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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The Dude
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UTC quote
ahaha!! Totally my mistake! I got mixed up HJO - that info should be for you ROFL emoticon


SAfis: nice headset and LED light! dig the smoke bare end signals
OP
@hjo avatar
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Thanks for the Mercato links!!
chandlerman wrote:
I have a 6v CEV sealed beam out of my Sprint you can have if that'll work.
This is the same one, 02827. Slightly different marking. How is the glass on that?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
SaFiS wrote:
GL, thanks for the offer, but I have no need for a US headlight. I was responding to "Rallygeek" but I forgot to quote him. Our Sprint V. / Rally handlebars have the bigger EU spec headlights were the glass was held by folded tabs at the back. You could pry them open and replace the glass or the reflector (were sold as replacement parts)...

Here's my handlebars for my upcoming project and the LED headlight I'm going to use (will run full DC)...

hjo: Sorry for the small thread hijack...
This looks so great!
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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Lucky
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UTC quote
hjo wrote:
This is the same one, 02827. Slightly different marking. How is the glass on that?
Glassy

It was working when I pulled it out of my SprintV in 2018, been in a box of parts ever since.
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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The Dude
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UTC quote
In my experience, the 6v sealed beams will work just fine with 12v; if you're going that route.
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@hjo avatar
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Nice! I'll DM.

Keeping it 6 volt. I hope it's stable.

I had a 1974 super, and the battery would drain if you rode it with the headlight on. Then all the lights would die.

It may have been the rectifier.
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
hjo wrote:
Keeping it 6 volt. I hope it's stable.

Why?

Picked up this video via the Youtube algorithm. Thought of your project with that under-seat key switch.
Took a few views to figure it all out, especially with that curious scoot as a model.

OP
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Ray8 wrote:
Why?

Picked up this video via the Youtube algorithm. Thought of your project with that under-seat key switch.
Took a few views to figure it all out, especially with that curious scoot as a model.
Why keep it 6 volt? Or why worry if it' stable?

I have all the 6v parts. The regulator, stator, harness, everything. I have a spare regulator, so hopefully one is good.

This video is interesting. It's converting from AC to DC. With a lot of American bikes, people converted the other way.
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Super excited about this. Speedo King rebuilt my speedo and sent this photo, and video of it working.

He's amazing.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Today's still life. Love having little parts finished.
Today's still life. Love having little parts finished.
Epoxy primer on the front fender. It's pretty straight.
Epoxy primer on the front fender. It's pretty straight.
A little dented. Hopefully I can get perfectly symmetrical.
A little dented. Hopefully I can get perfectly symmetrical.
The brake lever really cleaned up. This is before.
The brake lever really cleaned up. This is before.
@birdsnest avatar
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Not So Moderator
VNB VSC VMA VSX - o9c vbc vmb
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UTC quote
Break lever is amazing!
And fender looks ace as does the rebuilt speedo.

What was your process with on the brake pedal?
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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Lucky
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UTC quote
Birdsnest wrote:
Break lever is amazing!
And fender looks ace as does the rebuilt speedo.

What was your process with on the brake pedal?
Totally. I had some seriously corroded aluminum parts on my boat and used 3M 9020 Aluminum Polish and it worked great.
OP
@hjo avatar
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
The brake lever.

I had it vapor blasted, and it didn't come out well, but cleaned up. It had lots of pits.

I just used sandpaper, up to 1500, then chrome polish and a rag. It still has some pits, but didn't want to remove more material.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
After vapor blasting
After vapor blasting
I kept the vapor blasted finish on the underside
I kept the vapor blasted finish on the underside
It still has some pockmarks, but I think these are ok. A couple are pretty deep, and don't want to sand down too much.
It still has some pockmarks, but I think these are ok. A couple are pretty deep, and don't want to sand down too much.
Random stuff from O'Reilly's Auto Parts.
Random stuff from O'Reilly's Auto Parts.
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UTC quote
Amazing job
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Birdsnest wrote:
Amazing job
Thanks! This is so fun. I don't know what I'll do when I'm done. I guess spend another year on another one.
Here's another part. I remember these having a slight bit of texture, so used this textured powder coat. I'm not in love, but it's looks ok.
Here's another part. I remember these having a slight bit of texture, so used this textured powder coat. I'm not in love, but it's looks ok.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
The epoxy is really messy, and don't think it etches. So using etch primier on the ones that don't need body work.
The epoxy is really messy, and don't think it etches. So using etch primier on the ones that don't need body work.
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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Lucky
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UTC quote
I saw a DTM epoxy while I was looking at colors for my VBB that also etched, but by default, they don't. Better method is to galvanize the metal with ospho, wash/flush really well with water, then prep normally for DTM epoxy
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
I didn't get Ospho, bc the only place that has it is 20 miles away.

But also, it needs to be flushed with water. Or appears to be, and scared of water getting in seams.

So I used a wire brush to get every visible bit of rust, and epoxy or etch.

The bike has a lot of areas with rust pitting, which will need a really light layer of filler or some kind of building primer.
Lots of this kind of thing. But deeper in places. Not where it compromises the metal, but needs smoothing.
Lots of this kind of thing. But deeper in places. Not where it compromises the metal, but needs smoothing.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
This one is sad. There are some deep scratches and pitting. But all of this should be fixable with a very thin bit of filler.
This one is sad. There are some deep scratches and pitting. But all of this should be fixable with a very thin bit of filler.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
⚠️ Last edited by hjo on UTC; edited 1 time
@chandlerman avatar
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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Lucky
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UTC quote
It definitely needs to be flushed with water, but it's as thin as water, so anywhere water would get, it would have already galvanized.


As to the pitting, some glazing compound will fix that right up. High build primer might also work, but I don't have enough experience to say for sure. Either way, buy lots of sandpaper
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
I'll dig some up!
@chandlerman avatar
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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Lucky
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UTC quote
Check out Evercoat Easy Sand. SoCalGuy put me onto it and it works really well for dealing with small scratches and pitting.
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
This looks perfect!

I don't think there are really many places it needs Bondo. There are a few dents, but I think they'll straighten out.

So really just some pitting from places there was surface rust. It's more smoothing texture.
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
lollll.

Scooter Center has a washer I need.

It's like $1.50, and the shipping is $100.
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@sdjohn avatar
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Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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Johnny Two Tone
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UTC quote
Have Mark Ito at scooter-speed.com order it for you. No excessive shipping costs.
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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Lucky
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UTC quote
We've all been there. That's part of why I've gotten pretty good at sourcing stuff based on spec's, not the scooter sites.

Which washer is it?
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Ossessionato
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Ossessionato
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UTC quote
Ospho is basically phosphoric acid. There are other products like it. The idea is that it flows into the seams and kills the rust. It leaves a powdery coating that you have to rinse off before you paint.

I've had success building up deep pitting with epoxy primer and sanding between coats. You can also use a thin body filler sometimes called dolphin glaze. Avoid the crumbly red spot putty that comes in a tube.
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
I found it!

From Scooters Originali. I didn't see at Scooter Speed.

It's a shame. Those German sites have some really nice parts, including lots of ones that are still Piaggio-branded. but you have to do a big order to make it worthwhile.
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Oh yeah. Ospho is phosphoric acid, and some ingredients for liquid consistency.

It's basically the same as naval jelly. Which is easy to find. For some reason, Ospho is only at one store I could find in Marin County (20 miles away).

ok! It would be good to do the seams.

When they blasted it, they got all the paint, but there were spots with rust along the seams. They didn't get all the rust. I think the media must have been too heavy gauge.

And the spots with the old rust have grown a bit. It's so insidious.

I have to get some primer on this before it rusts again.
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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Lucky
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UTC quote
Part of what's so awesome about phosphoric acid/ospho/naval jelly is that it actually galvanizes the metal so it won't rust in the time between when you treat it and when you lay down the primer.
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@hjo avatar
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
ok. That's my weekend project.

Going to protect all the parts that aren't getting metal work.
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Things you never thought would clean up (and probably weren't worth the effort).
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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Lucky
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UTC quote
"What're you doing?"


"Nothing. Just sittin' around polishing my exhaust stub."
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@hjo avatar
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
Just sittin' around polishing my exhaust stub."


I didn't realize these were ever shiny. I don't think I've ever seen one that wasn't all rusty.

Guess I saved $50.
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Things.
Found some of this stuff.
Found some of this stuff.
And these. They're identical to the Rally ones, except they have a gray plastic frame rather than a metal one.
And these. They're identical to the Rally ones, except they have a gray plastic frame rather than a metal one.
The posts are even in the same place. But would require some modification to mount them.
The posts are even in the same place. But would require some modification to mount them.
These are the Rally ones.
These are the Rally ones.
Probably the rarest US market detail. Everyone took these off, bc they were a bit awkward, so few remain.
Probably the rarest US market detail. Everyone took these off, bc they were a bit awkward, so few remain.
The prismatic plastic CEV used was so pretty.
The prismatic plastic CEV used was so pretty.
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