Modern Vespa

This is my semi gloss 2k clear coat.

Ray8 that’s too nice for the bike I’m looking at 😀. Good work.

Anyone have tips in getting the rolled edge around the legshield and flooring back into proper shape? I saw this on Scooter Mercato
https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Other-Helpful-Tools/SAINTS-6000_5
but don't want to spend money on something I would only use once if I dont have to.
Thanks!

Worth every penny.

Used that tool on every single rebuild I do.

If you are gonna do one and only one rebuild it is spendy... but if you have even a chance of doing others it is worth the nickel.

Got it - I'll probably buy it, worse case, I can list it here for sale, I am sure someone else can use it. Thanks guys.

Isn't there a plastic version of the beading that doesn't require the tool? Maybe doesn't look as good but an option nonetheless?

Ray8 - 2k is a brand name?

Hey SDJ - I've used the too to straighten out the edge that the trim goes on, whether it be plastic or otherwise. It makes the job of edge straightening so much easier and efficient.

ok so the tool is useful no matter which beading. I was thinking the tool was for installing the beading but looking back now that's obviously not it! is there a tool for installing beading also?

2K means two component epoxy. Spray Max is the brand I used. Eastwood has it as well.

Installing the beading is a different tool.

I bought one for my GL and it was also worth every penny for re-installing aluminum edge trim. I don't know how you'd do it without that thing.

thanks for the clarification!

OK so none of the posts so far deal with how to prep and paint plastic stuff like P series headsets. What are the unique things when dealing with plastic??

With fiberglass (and, I assume, plastic), it's the same process, you just start by cleaning, then sanding the existing paint with 600 grit so the new paint can stick. After that, you prime, sand, paint same as metal.

Need to get rid of waxes, polishes, whatever old crap that will impede adhesion. Acetone worked for me.
Plastic isn't as rigid as steel, so look for a paint specific to that application.
This is what I got for my Fly floorboard, after my wife backed into it:

so what is the preferred cleaning chemical prior to paint application in between each layer - acetone, alcohol of some sort, or something else?

OMG I didn't take the time to follow and read through this, but your thread is very useful SEB - thanks for linking it in. Lots of useful tips and good mistakes to learn from, plus it looks like it can apply whether you're doing a spray gun or a rattle job. Nice!

I did soapy water, then mineral spirits, then alcohol when I did my GL. And a tack cloth after that. Used blue dust-free paper towels to wipe it all down/off.

So where do you get the tack cloth, auto paint store? Blue dust free paper towels too, please…

Tack cloth came from Amazon. The paper towels are lint/dust free towelsfrom the auto parts store, sold for cleaning glass.

Chandlerman, what type of alcohol? Did you clean that way between prime and paint?

A great tip i picked up (i think it was from the eastwood guys) which makes a huge difference, (doesnt matter if its cans or spray gun) and especially for clear coat is to mop the surrounding work area of 3-4 feet with water. It can dry quite fast if its warm weather, so be generous with making it wet.

Dust and overspray sticks to the water, makes a world of difference as its drying.

It helps with avoiding lots of sanding of nubs and dust/hairs that make its way towards whatever youre painting.

Nothing. No chemicals whatsoever between coats, not even water.

Oh, for in between layers/coats, 99% isopropyl alcohol has worked the best for me...

I found you cant skip wipe downs, no matter how clean it looks from a normal lint free wipe, or tack rag, its just not the same, orange peel usually comes back to haunt you.

[Edit]
Forgot to mention, doesnt work with 1k paints (not spray cans)... the alcohol clumps the paint together.

Yes I found that trying to use an acetone wipe would remove a bit of the primer, so I knocked that off! Just wondering what if anything I should do between rattle prime and rattle paint. Isopropyl alcohol would be ok then? This is not fancy auto paint it's duplicolor stuff from o'reilly.

I used 70% Isoprophyl Alcohol. I'd have gone 99%, but they didn't have it at the store when I went to get it.

I didn't wet down the floor when I did my original paint, but will definitely try it when I'm re-doing everything from the crash.

Yeah it's kinda hard to find these days for some reason…. 🤣

To be honest, don't think it makes a difference on the percentage just as long as it flashes off and doesn't leave moisture…

Used both 75 and 99%… haven't seen any difference yet… the store had both, at similar prices so went with 99%

Sd John, wiped down plastic parts with alcohol which were rattle canned, seemed ok, didn't clump together

The Eastwood videos guy used 70%, too, I think. Mostly, though, I think it's about being consistent, not cutting corners, and switching out your cloth or towel as soon as you see any dirt.

Do you have an air compressor?
If so, blow it off while wiping with a microfiber towel. Nothing else.

If your using a compressor make sure you have a separator for oil and water. Also use a clean air hose that hasn't been used without a separator in the past. Don't ask how I know, that a little oil or water from a compressor can ruin a paint job. It was an entrance door to my house I got to sand and repaint again and again, fourth or fifth time was good.

Ha good point. No compressor in my place, thus the rattle cans. Plus, a fender and 2 cowls isn't worth investing in all the gear. But I'm interested in learning techniques and I am having fun!

Okay.
Take a microfiber towel and shake it like a Polaroid picture before wiping. Nothing else.

You could try something like this stuff maybe, there are other brands...

Unless you just don't want to store it, a cheap pancake compressor is only like $100 off Amazon or from Harbor Freight. I bought mine for painting the boat but use it regularly for all sorts of other things.

I'm good myself, for others how does it work with an HVLP spray gun? Can it keep up?

I'd certainly consider one as well.

Those little pancake compressors are going to introduce moisture in the airline.

Hopefully you realize the benefits of using a gun rather than rattle can, for my project I had to learn to weld and paint and I have no regrets. I went a bit extreme with the gun but at the same time bought a cheap Amazon gun for priming and a good gun for shooting the paint and no regrets. Think of it as an investment, you get quality work and when done you can always resell the equipment and your loss would still be a lot less than hiring a paint shop.

You need to get a variation of this for painting, I have one permanently mounted on my compressor to keep moisture out of my tools.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200625243_200625243?cm_mmc=Google-LIA&utm_source=Google_LIA&utm_medium=Air%20Tools%20%2B%20Compressors%20%3E%20Air%20Compressor%20Parts%20%2B%20Maintenance%20%3E%20Air%20Compressor%20Filters%20%26%20Lubricator&utm_campaign=RapidAir&utm_content=37579&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn6-gg-XC8gIVmI7ICh1gpQ4xEAQYBCABEgJLzfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds