Modern Vespa

Well, my old Trail Tech CHT just bit the dust so now I’m going to order a new one but was surprised when the rep from the company recommended using a Resistor spark plug. I hadn’t heard of that before but apparently non-resistor plugs cause the programming to role through the different modes. Has his been an issue for anyone? I use the NGK B8HS.

I think it's worth a look. A noisy plug wouldn't typically matter because there are no sensitive electronics on an old Vespa. But if your CHT is like mine, bought on amazon from the cheapest anonymous vendor, then I wouldn't be surprised that the plug can interfere with its operation.

Non resistor plugs messed with my koso gauge so i had to switch to resistor plugs. And those aren't cheap gauges.

It looks like the resister version of the B8HS is the BR8HS so I'll go see if I can find one of those. I know very little about plugs so does anyone have any other recommendations?

Add a resistor cap and keep the same plug.

https://www.amazon.com/NGK-LB05EP-Resistor-Spark-Plug/dp/B001KOL5SG/ref=sr_1_1?crid=24GODJGZG2FQ6&dchild=1&keywords=ngk+resistor+spark+plug+cap&qid=1625790838&sprefix=ngk+res%2Caps%2C541&sr=8-1

Don't know how much it would or would not help if the temp sensor is under the plug. I don't think it matters. I added the resistor cap and not the spark plug for a sip speedo. Seems to work fine with the temp sensor under the cap.

You should be able to pry the gauge apart to replace the battery if that is the issue. They say its not replaceable but ive seen otherwise years ago.

I happen to have an LBO5EP resistor cover on hand, I'll use that. Thanks for the recommendation rowdyc

Also, running a resistor spark plug or a resistor cover doesn't affect performance at all... right?

Thanks Keaton but according to the manufacturer, there is no way to replace the internal batteries as they are completely potted in epoxy to make them as waterproof and vibration proof as possible.

My old unit has been out of production for at least six years so I figure it's time to upgrade to a new one anyway. I placed my order today.

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Ordered mine from their website, with a 48" extension three weeks ago. They shipped just the extension cable a few days later. Now they say the CHT won't be available to ship until August :?

AW CRAP!

More shit I"m going to have to deal with... buying parts shouldn't be this tough!!

Thanks for the heads up Ray8

Try RevZilla, or Treatland. Both have good prices and fast shipping.

I have a couple of questions about how to and mount a new CHT near the headset. I’m thinking of adding a bar under the existing bracket that holds the mirror and then mounting the Trail Tech onto the end of the bar… unless someone has a better suggestion.

My other question is about how best to thread the wiring from the headset to the spark plug. I’m thinking that I would first run just the 4 foot extension in through big hole on the column, down the tunnel until it comes out under the gas tank. Then I’ll run the sensor wire from the spark plug through one of the holes down there and connect to the extension under the gas tank. At the other end, I’ll run the wire from the gauge to the plug on the extension, connect them and then shove the connection into the hole in the column. Does that make sense? Am I missing anything? Does anyone have any tips or suggestions to make this job easy?

That's probably the best way, and exactly the same way i mounted my koso gauges. Cut a little piece of metal, drilled holes to mount to the mirror stem screw and mounted to koso bracket to it. Has held up fine for over two years.

Stella 150 temp/tach gauges and a cell phone charger

Hey LuckyBear,

I took off the horncast and the tank, then ran the extension from the tank to the horncast. After that I loosened the headset up and had the wire come out between the headset and frame.

On hindsight I like your idea better, coming out through the hole for tightening the headset.

I used thick weedwhacker line and left a strand in there, in case I want to pull anything else through at a later date...

I want to open up my old Trail Tech gauge to see if maybe I can reach the battery in there however I can't seem to split the case... you can see where I tried

The four screws came out easily but I can't tell if the two case halves are glued together or if there is something down the hole below the blue button on the back that is holding it together. I can neither see or feel anything down the hole.

Does anyone have any experience in opening these things.?

So, has anyone been able to crack one of these open?

I tried and it was glued pretty well. I called TT and they said they weren’t serviceable. Just a 5 year life and toss.

I was going to try it anyway but moved on. Do it and see!

The CHT and tach I'm still waiting for are the newer "panel mount" versions. Pretty sure they have to be split apart to install(?)

They maybe ultrasonic welded or with screws they maybe filled with a non conductive epoxy and assembled.

After reading Ray 8s experience trying to buy a new gauge directly from Trail Tech and being told that they won't ship until the end of August, I had the same experience. Fortunately GeekLion suggested RevZilla, or Treatland and while RevZilla was out of stock, Treatland had both the gauge and the extension I wanted in stock and ready to ship. I jumped on them.

This was my first time dealing with them but they were very courteous and professional and I would happily do business with them again... except that most of what they sell is for Mopeds. Good people though.

As an aside I would add that I was very frustrated with some of the way that Trail Tech does things however they have a Technical Service Rep named Justin who is VERY good. Even though I didn't buy from them, he worked with me to do what needed to be done. Good guy!

Panel mount gauges usually require a precise hole size and snap into the hole.
Some require a precise hole size then use a clamp on the back to sandwich the bezel lip to the panel.
I looked at one of those, what's your plan for cutting the square hole?

Borrowing an idea from an Allstate fan's Instagram photo.
Bought a vintage 1 gallon oil can on ebay.
Planning to use the spare wheel bolt holes to mount it. Bracket and can are ready.
Hoping to fit the CHT and tach on the lid (not sure if they'll fit yet), and making the rest into a glove box/secret stash keeper. In my case that stash will be two Modelo's.

Oh man, I want to see that! Chris (Scootnewb) has accessorized his Allstate with some cool Allstate stuff...

Something like this but 1 Gal.

Looking forward to seeing pics

Pretty cool idea Ray.
Make sure to post!

Here's the project so far. Looks like the cht and tach will fit. Not sure if I'll be able to do a hinged setup or just make the lid a fitted cap.
I destroyed the original lid while cutting it off with a chop saw. Stupid. Going to use a new one from an acetone can and patina it later.
Oil can metal is like a paper bag without the top. Put an aluminum strap around it, PL glued. Solid now. Lid will have a steel strap to allow for patina.
Two 12oz bottles and insulation fit perfectly.

Well, THAT'S not gonna work!

I ran the cable from the Trail Tech gauge into the large hole on the column but then I couldn't get it down into the space under the horncast. I don't see a way to do it (it's packed tight) so I'm looking at another idea and that is running the wire into the space under the column lock and down under the horncast and then through the tunnel back to the engine.

I'd welcome any better ideas.

I see that some of you mount the gauge on the glove box or the headset but where do you run the wires? I don't want to drill any holes.

I used that space by the lock and put it on top of the glovebox on my P200

SD John, I followed your example and used the hole for the column lock. I'll check it out tomorrow but it should be fine. (Damn, I hate running cable through the tunnel)

How important is the plastic panel that covers the end of the tunnel under the gas tank.

When I rebuilt Spermy I "kinda" got it back into place but it wasn't a good fit. Today, with added wires and cables (and 90 degree temperatures in the garage) I didn't want to mess with it so I left it out.

Does that panel really do anything?

Does anyone have a comment on the need for the panel over the tunnel?

Its a drip pan. I don't use it only because I forgot to put it back in before running wires and cables. Useful but not needed in my opinion.....until there's a gas leak.

It also blocks airflow from the tunnel so that air is drawn only from under the seat. It keeps carburetion more consistent.

Here's where I'm at now. The lid is hinged. Lots more room than I expected inside.
Drilled a hole behind this setup to run the wires. Trashed one or two gear cables doing so
Bracket is all 1/8" by 2" flat bar.

Sweet! I'm diggin it R8 - very cool addition....

Using it as a storage box also since you have a hinged lid? I like the setup, gives me some ideas for my Allstate. I like the looks of a front mounted spare, maybe a version of this would fit in the middle of a spare tire.

Ray8 that's really slick. Nice work!

I ran mine up through the spare tire on my VNB.

I think I wanna get a spare tire like your setup BN. I gotta hunt down a bracket, then a rim...

Thanks SD. There's no way I can get that plate back into place... too much shit in the way... so maybe I'll just shove a plastic bag down there to block the air flow.

Thanks for the heads up.