Modern Vespa

I've been making progress cleaning parts, sorting bins searching for needed parts; and smashed out a few small dents in the engine cowl. No pics of that stuff.

In real progress land I opened up the primary drive to check on the springs, and clean up.
All springs are intact and good condition. Found a little brass shavings inbetween the plates.I have new, bearings, plates & rivets ready to go back together with the stock drive gears.

Should I:
A: reuse the original springs
B: get new stock springs
C: use the DRT reinforced springs, which I have already

Keep in mind my intentions for the motor: O-Tune cylinder stroker motor, long stroke race cut crank with longer intake duration, probably euro head or reprofiled head, 24 or 26 carb.

All this is just planning at this point, we'll see how it actually plays out

P200 projects abound! So many going on right now! Keep it coming!

BTW, use the drt springs. You already opened it up. Mine as well put new in so you don't have to think about it again for a long while. I used the DRT springs on both tuned 177 stella and the slightly optimized stock p200 with long stroke. If you ever decide to tune the 200, you won't have to think about those springs.

I'll be the contrarian - weren't there a shit-ton of people with breaking DRT primary springs not long ago?? I like DRT but I remember this distinctly...

Next up is more cleaning. Everything must be clean! Even on a rat build

I've gone thru my list of needs, and dug thru all my bins; and have a preliminary-final list of parts I need for this build. Any help with below would of course be appreciated! Used is good! Lets do some swapping/buying/selling/trading

BODY
Rear Plastic Bumper
Throttle tube return spring
Indicator Housing Gaskets: rubber betwen cowl/plastic housing
Lock Set: glovebox & column w/ keys
Headset Top Screws
Hex Logo badge on Horncast
Oil tank sight glass
Battery Strap
Center Stand Boots
Center Mat
Cowl Rubber: 1 piece, left/spare side
Floor Rail End Cap: 1 piece only
Floor Rail Rubber: 2 pieces to do 1 straight strip, and 1 outside-Right edge.
*or I'll glue the existing pieces back in place Best glue for rubber, ShoeGoo?
Kill/Signal Switch
*Good or broken BUT with good Kill Toggle lever, so I can atleast fix & rewire the switch I have

Bonus:
Smoke Turnsignal lenses, cuz they look cool

Anything not listed, like cables, motor bits, etc; I'll get new.

Most annoying and time consuming job to only find out that the springs were OK. But, better safe than sorry…

I agree with John, have seen too often them DRT springs failing…

These are my thoughts as well. It's already open, and already have the springs. Win-Win.

I havn't heard anything about breaking DRT springs, and I've only previously used stock springs. If the DRT springs do indeed have a history of breaking prematurely, what other 'better than stock' springs would be recommended. I've had good experience with other DRT products.

Hadn't heard that either. Hopefully only temporary issue cause I've got two bikes with them installed on!

if I remember right, it's mentioned in my p200 thread, but then again, that's 40 pages long and who has time to look??

https://modernvespa.com/forum/post2165455#2165455

found it

A year before my time! Wish i had seen it before installing them.

Wow! I would certainly not want to rebuild the primary again after so few miles...

I made a little progress. Cleaned up the engine cases, which were of course coated in a nice thick layer of oily gunk.

Then I moved on to cleaning the alum transfer on the cylinder. Muriatic acid made easy work of it. Cyliner looks ok, but does have some wear score lines from the seize. None of those visible can be felt with a nail, but are visible in the bright light. Hope they clean up with a really good hone, and even more so hope it doesn't need an over bore. Not the end of the world if so. I'll measure and spec out this cyl before moving forward with a new piston + rings.

Next it was on to some work on the frame. More cleaning (must be kleeeeeaaaan)!

I decided to do rust treatment on all the bare metal sections where the paint has fallen off. I used Eastwood's Fast Etch; which I have used many times before on various projects. It is a Phosphoric Acid based product, similar to Ospho. It neutralized the rust, and leaves a zinc phosphate coating for further protection. I am happy with the results.

Looking good GL - keep up the good work!

This thread is an utter delight! Love the combo of ratiness, cleanliness and tidiness.

Keep it coming!

You still committed to a rat? This is the point where I’d start considering a full respray.

So, couple of questions. What are you doing before applying the product? Sanding to bare metal, wire wheel, something else? If you are sanding, by hand or with a DA, Sander, or ? Does it hurt if this product touches paint? Do you brush on this product? Do you have to get to bare shiny metal or just get off the crusties? Can you paint over it? Nice work!

Ps if you haven’t figured it out I need to do exactly this in a few areas of my px.

Yes I am still commited to a rat, but I’d say more of a clean rat than a dirty one.
“Survivor” Rat?… I did go abit further than originally planned, but I hate dirty scooters, so I couldnt help myself Definitley no respray, as I dont have funds, resources, time, or desire for such for such on this project. I have others that I’ll go full bore respray. I just wanted to clean it up best I can and give some rust protection. Still keeping the budget as low as possible, but I dont mind spending time; which I have lots of.

Applying the Fast-Etch is easy, wipe it on and let it work; wipe off before it dries. If it dries, it turns white and crusty. I did no sanding, scraping or anything else prior; other than making sure the surface was clean. It soaks into the rust, even the thick spots. After the product did its thing; a light scrub with a dish-sponge scrubber on the tough chunky spots. 🧽

Wow! I’m doing that for sure. Are you going to add a layer of protection like a clear or something?

Totally understand, clean is good, looks great, but the rust is going to come right back unless you spray something over the bare metal. Guess you could rub oil on it but do you really want an oily scoot?

You’ve already taken it apart and pounded out the heavy dents. For a couple hundred bucks might as well do a low budget rattle can job. I can think of a bunch of cool options...

No need to spray the bare metal, use this instead-
https://www.amazon.com/Sharkhide-Metal-Protectant-1/dp/B07NGMYKS5/ref=asc_df_B07NGMYKS5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312062016371&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7385162697433202231&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007322&hvtargid=pla-646530339108&psc=1

Works amazingly. Just wipe it on and go about your life.

It's so perfect and all apart. At this point, seems worth painting.

All good points about painting it.... It is all apart, but to me thats no big deal. dropping the fork and motor is easy and need to be done to get to everything anyway. Floor rails a bit more work, but not bad with the proper tool.

The body is far from perfect, dent's and waves abound, plus the cowls are literally hammered. Rattle can could be good & cheap. Maybe some SprayMax 2k satin clear.

I like the look of it the way it is now. My thoughts on rust coming back - it wont be worse than it was before. I've used Owatrol oil on bare metal with good results. I could do a light coat of owatrol on the bare portions, it cures hard; then many layers of good hard wax.

Options and opinions much appreciated. I like hearing everyones perspective

I vote owatrol and wax or clear, I like the original intent of this project

I'd love to hear what creative ideas are turning Socal's gears


Fridaymatinee: sharkhide looks very appealing. Have you used it?

I did this tank 3 years ago with fast etch/owatrol/wax

is the wax a special one or garden variety turtle wax?

Just some garden variety car wax. The phosphic acid leaves a protective coating on the bare metal, the Owatrol Oil seals it and dries hard, wax for extra insurance. I know its not a look for everyone, but worked for my goals.

For me the biggest down side of the Owatrol is that it goes on thick, and dries sticky at first; and it has a slight yellow/orange tint similar to lacquer. I found thin coats with plenty of dry time work best.

Ok, yes Owatrol ... it’s similar to Penetrol... never tried it myself. Seems to leave kind of a caked on finish. Maybe it depends how you apply it.

Wait, what am I saying ... it’s a rat fercrissakes! Who cares how it looks!

Yep! Who cares-good enuf-it is what it is-ya get what ya pay 4-aren't you going to paint that thing?!? is what I'm going for.

The tank pic above, I layed on the Owatrol THIK like thighs. Dried up good and hard after about a week. Has been good ever since. It does have that caked on appearance, and is not smooth as glass like a clear would be, but for these type of projects; its pretty darn good. Not a end-all be all, but good.

I'm interested to try out that SharkHide product. Eastwood also sells it, so at least it must have somewhat a good reputation. Definitely appealing for more of a clean bare look, as opposed to the oiled 'patina-juice look. I think the Owatrol oil looks best on ontouched rusty surface.

I did, I used it on an old bike. Sold it 5yrs later and never had rust break through. Only one coat of it lasted me 5yrs. Rode that think year round too. Snow, ice, sleet, rain, 100+ temps with high humidity. Works pretty great honestly.

Looking great!

Since you are talking clear coat... I recently did a rust converter on the bottom of my white P. After the acid treatment I did a quick spray with Rustoleum's Crystal Clear Enamel. Could be worth a try to maintain that look you have going.

FWIW

Thats good to know! I have another all bare metal project in the works, so this could be perfect. I will add a clear coat to the underside floor board, at the very least

can you share the exact owatrol product you use?

https://www.owatrolusa.com/product/owatrol-oil/

I've used the brush on quart, but they also have aerosol.

Not too much to report, other than alot of thinking on this project, and being distracted by other priorities and things. So here is where I leave things now, just with a proof of concept mockup, with parts on hand

The next debate is wether or not to add the crash bars; Courtesy of SDJohn / Greasy125.Thx brothers!

Pros:
I dig the oldschool look.
they are the exact same as the set on my first Vespa; so bonus points.
Lights mounting, so yeah Patina Demo Derby Mod stuff goings on's

Cons: drillin holz sux

Thoughts?

Know what, I like 'em as long as you DON'T paint the bike.

So... ShoeGoo?

If you were trying to restore it then drilling would be a no go. But on this one? DRILL BABY DRILL!