Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8995 Location: San Diego, CA |
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Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2541 Location: Siam |
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Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2541 Location: Siam |
UTC
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GeekLion wrote: I was taught to always fold the pin over the top, with the Loop head tucked into the slot. With the leggy's bent around the circumference the pin has potential to loosen and work its way out. |
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Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2541 Location: Siam |
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Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2541 Location: Siam |
UTC
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GeekLion wrote: The next debate is wether or not to add the crash bars; Courtesy of SDJohn / Greasy125.Thx brothers! Pros: I dig the oldschool look. they are the exact same as the set on my first Vespa; so bonus points. Lights mounting, so yeah Patina Demo Derby Mod stuff goings on's Cons: drillin holz sux Thoughts? |
Not So Moderator
VNB VSC VMA VSX - o9c vmb vse
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8808 Location: Hustletown, TX |
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^^^
+1 Some of the vintage ulma stuff is tasty but yeah… that later era stuff looks like a walker was festooned on there. That said… the only person that needs to like it is you!!! The black pieces look great. Will be a cool looking scoot for sure. |
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Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2541 Location: Siam |
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Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2541 Location: Siam |
Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8995 Location: San Diego, CA |
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nomadinsiam wrote: I have a theory on why people give away 80s era crashbars. |
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Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2541 Location: Siam |
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Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2541 Location: Siam |
UTC
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sdjohn wrote: But that's kinda the point in using them here, the bike goes against the grain Please just don't dip it in copper and let is oxidize. |
Ossessionato
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4580 Location: Florence, OR |
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GeekLion wrote: The next debate is whether or not to add the crash bars . . . Thoughts? |
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2236 Location: PNW from LBC |
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nomadinsiam wrote: I'd say nah on the crashbars. They always remind of those stainless steel tubes in bathrooms that old people use to help themselves getting off the toilet. I know, one day I'll be using them. |
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Crash bars all the way. Throw some fog lights and mirrors on there and you will be transported back to the 1980's instantly.
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
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Love those crash bars. They were called Tower Bars. They were produced in the US, just around 1980-81. Very period-correct mod style.
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10825 Location: Nashville 261 Days Since Last Explosion |
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10825 Location: Nashville 261 Days Since Last Explosion |
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I'm also Team Drill this time, and that'd normally be a bit of a showstopper for me.
Also, catching up from the Ospho/Penetrol discussion, the value of using a Phosphoric Acid product is that it actually galvanizes the metal, so it won't rust so long as the underlying metal isn't exposed. According to the Ospho bottle's instructions, you're supposed to let it dry on the surface, which will produce the white powdery residue, then wash it off with water. I did basically the same thing as you're doing here when I cleaned up my Sprint a couple months ago because it had lots of wear spots and a few scrapes and they all continue to look great. I love where you're headed with this. Don't lose momentum! |
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Molto Verboso
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1379 Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand) |
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Molto Verboso
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1379 Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand) |
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Only just caught this thread. Love me a rat - but agree they gotta be clean.
Clear enamels look great but crappy scratch resistance and even worse chemical (I.e. petrol) resistance. Mines 100% bare metal zinc phosphate coated… then penetrol… then a 2K in a can… then ACF50 for a laugh. Here is the evaluation after 1 year. Bare metal rat coat update |
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2236 Location: PNW from LBC |
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hjo wrote: Love those crash bars. They were called Tower Bars. They were produced in the US, just around 1980-81. Very period-correct mod style. Pheas - thanks for the link on your Rat build thread, I've poored thru your thread extensively as you built. Glad to hear the finish is holding up. I will likely add a satin clear to the under side frame + floor board area; but leave the rest in au-natural state. As SoCal said, the phosphoric acid galvanizes the metal so it already has (some) protection. I have parts I've treated this way that have held up rust free for years. |
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Molto Verboso
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1379 Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand) |
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Molto Verboso
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1379 Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand) |
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On my test cowl/panel it was Penetrol that made the biggest difference (assuming Owatrol is the same?)
Bare zinc phos will eventually rust in humidity alone. I reckon Penetrol works a lot better on zinc phos than plain steel. The zinc phos creates a crystalline layer that lets the Penetrol have more to penetrate into. Putting a clear over the Penetrol means it will last a lot longer - it has no meaningful hardness. I tried some clear enamel but just a drop of gas fries it. Which is what it does to to Penetrol also. That Maston Two I used works really well for a solution in a single can. I can't get anymore of it tho - the supplier stopped brining it in and only available in random European countries. I think there are a bunch of 2K in a can options in the US tho? A real 2K clear would be no.1 tho…. |
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2236 Location: PNW from LBC |
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Yes I believe Owatrol /Penetrol are very similar. I've used Owatrol on phos-acid treated parts, and it does keep them clean for alot longer.
A true 2k satin clear would be #1 longevity; and might look good too |
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2236 Location: PNW from LBC |
Ossessionato
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4580 Location: Florence, OR |
UTC
Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10825 Location: Nashville 261 Days Since Last Explosion |
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10825 Location: Nashville 261 Days Since Last Explosion |
UTC
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I'll have to keep an eye on the treated patches on the Sprint. We definitely have humidity here, but I haven't noticed any rust thus far, and it lives in my workshop so it's not getting rained on or anything.
I'll probably track down some Penetrol and do it up with that at some point, but right now, I've got bigger fish to fry in the workshop. |
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The finish you've got with that rust treatment is perfect. Like you say a very clean rat look, it's really cool having the different shades of silver and greys in there, so definitely don't paint it!
I'm not usually a fan of crash bars, but if you had them on your first scooter you've got to go for it for that nostalgia. |
Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8995 Location: San Diego, CA |
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OK so I want to replicate your owatrol oil finish in my wheel well of the PX. Let me see if I have your process OK.
-Clean up with scotch write and WD40 -Probably clean off with acetone -Eastwood Fast Etch, then wipe off -Clean? With what? -Owatrol oil apply -Dry for how long? -Wax Can you fill in the gaps? Thanks. I just ordered my owatrol oil so I have a bit of time... |
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2236 Location: PNW from LBC |
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Not a whole lot to update here... other than that I pulled the P out of the corner of the shop that it had been banished to. Dusted er off, and requanted myself with the beast. Feels like it been ages...just about 3 months or so since I've touched it. Nice to revisit this again.
I mocked up the taillight, which I really dig. The frame already had holes drilled in the proper place, so it was easy. I like the straight lines that fit with the overall lines of the P. what was I going to do with this thing again...
Positive
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