OP
UTC

Hooked
Rat 2003 Stella 2T; 1979 P125x (in pieces, out for paint)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 386
Location: Madtown
 
Hooked
Rat 2003 Stella 2T; 1979 P125x (in pieces, out for paint)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 386
Location: Madtown
UTC quote
Hi all,

Over Covid I decided I wanted to try to build up a p-series from scratch. Definitely an "amateur resto" but intended as a learning experience.

I'm currently working on getting the floor rails on; I have the SIP riveter, an amazing tool. The problem is the final rivets on the outer rails, where the rails overlap with the trim. I started off using the crimp-on trim, which I promptly destroyed when attempting to use the factory crimp tool. So I ended up using the plastic "chrome" snap-on trim instead.

The photo shows the issue. There is a large gap between the floor rail and the legshield due to the trim. I tried drawing it down with the rivet, but the large gap meant that the rivet just mushroomed along the shaft.

I'd rather not cut the trim but am not sure how I am supposed to get the rail flush enough to rivet. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Floor rail
Floor rail
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
The floor rails are such a pain!

Especially the outer one.

With those, they don't sell them with the right curvature. So you need to twist the top part a little. Just getting the rivet in there isn't enough to pull it into shape.

it's easier if you can work it to shape before placing the rivets. or use screws to test it.

the metal is soft, so be careful. It's easy to crimp / scratch it. I used a vise grip wrapped in a towel

Another thing, the rivets ( on the ones I used) need a countersink drilled to sit flush on the middle ones, if they're tapered.

- Need a punch that matches the curvature of the top of the rivet, otherwise it will get all scarred.
- the rivets are long, so need trimming before they're peened

This video from Scooterworks might help.

Shame about the trim! I managed to get that to work (it's hard!). I could maybe help with what I learned there. It was a lot of work, but came out well. If you have the tool, it's possible to do it. Just takes lots of time.

I documented in this thread.
Gray p200 Rebirth
This style of rivets need a countersink to sit flush.
This style of rivets need a countersink to sit flush.
⚠️ Last edited by hjo on UTC; edited 1 time
@danie avatar
UTC

Hooked
'57 VN2, '70 180 Rally, '80 P150X, '80 P200E, '05 GT200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 378
Location: George, South Africa
 
Hooked
@danie avatar
'57 VN2, '70 180 Rally, '80 P150X, '80 P200E, '05 GT200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 378
Location: George, South Africa
UTC quote
Rub soap on the runners where it needs bending, then heat that part with a gas flame (not a blow torch!!) until the colour becomes dark brown. Let it cool down by itself, then wash the brown stuff off. Now the aluminium is very soft and can be bent quite easily.

For the runners on the lefthand side, you must bend them to the left before twisting them to fit correctly. On the righthand side, you bend them to the right. If you don't bend them beforehand, they tend to curve, instead of staying straight.
UTC

Ossessionato
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2347
Location: Philadelphia
 
Ossessionato
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2347
Location: Philadelphia
UTC quote
You’ll cut the floor rail to meet the trim. It doesn’t go over it. Or cut the trim. One or the other.
@safis avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4723
Location: Veria, Greece
 
Ossessionato
@safis avatar
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4723
Location: Veria, Greece
UTC quote
Since you have the closed end caps, twist the rail and use longer pop rivets for the outer one. The gap will be there but the rivet will pull the end cap and rail in place. Don’t cut it as suggested. It goes over on the P series. The rivet will also secure the legshield trim. Here’s how mine ended up…
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
UTC

Ossessionato
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2347
Location: Philadelphia
 
Ossessionato
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2347
Location: Philadelphia
UTC quote
SaFiS wrote:
Since you have the closed end caps, twist the rail and use longer pop rivets for the outer one. The gap will be there but the rivet will pull the end cap and rail in place. Don’t cut it as suggested. It goes over on the P series. The rivet will also secure the legshield trim. Here’s how mine ended up…
Thanks for catching my mistake. I missed that it was a P.

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