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Do I need to split the cases to get in there?
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Lucky
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You can try to spread some into the gap. I've done that and gotten away with it, but it's not a sure thing.

Figure that if it doesn't work, you're only out a few minutes of work plus drying time, especially if the case itself and seals seems are tight.
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so what do we want in this area? - it's got gasoline involved. I'm leaning motoseal, it spreads well and is kick ass as a base gasket sealer for cylinders. but if I need more bulk, maybe RTV is the way to go. Should i use a gasket or just sealer, since the gasket seems to not cut it anyway?
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Lucky
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I go with gasket+sealer on that joint. Craig had similar air leak issues on his Boss Hog build and he wound up going gasket+sealer, too.

I like the RTV because I know that if I spread in into it with a popsicle stick, it will fill that gap and then hold. I've had first try pressure test success on my last three assemblies using RTV+gasket on that joint.
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all right then rtv + gasket it will be
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On the plus side, my gray market px with no papers is now a titled, plated, legal entity! Plates came yesterday.
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sdjohn wrote:
On the plus side, my gray market px with no papers is now a titled, plated, legal entity! Plates came yesterday.
Congrats! That's great to hear…!
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Yup, so I started the process again with the VBB, sent in for the title with Saints. Just a repeat of the same process.
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I have now reached the part of every build where you start making orders for parts where the shipping costs more than the parts. Ordered gaskets from 2 sources today to have spares to get this thing sealed. Neither one had exactly what I wanted. Scooter life.
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Lucky
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sdjohn wrote:
I have now reached the part of every build where you start making orders for parts where the shipping costs more than the parts. Ordered gaskets from 2 sources today to have spares to get this thing sealed. Neither one had exactly what I wanted. Scooter life.
It's a beautiful, terrible part of the process. I went through it with my GL, and in some cases I even wound up ordering the same part in different orders, either because I'd lost track or because it was a critical path item that was cheap enough I didn't care about the double cost.

Naturally, none of those parts are ones that I need *now* as I approach paint and re-assembly time.

Which reminds me...*alt-tabs over to scootermercato...*
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Waiting on parts, so odd jobs today.

First up paint a fender. I learned from the underside not to paint outside, lots of junk in that side. This side went better, prep was better and used the garage. Learned I need a bigger drop cloth, but not so bad as to worry. Runs and orange peel? Yep. But I remembered I have cleaned up that wtuff in the past on a Lambretta rack with 1000 grit, it just takes patience.
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Next up fix the lever pivot situation. I realized the head of the lever bolt was pinching the lever if I tightened it because someone had stripped out the headset holes. So I bought these aluminum spacers and 5mm bolts. I figured if I can have a longer shoulder, the nut below can be tightened up and the lever can pivot on the shoulder. So I tapped these spacers to m5 and used some loctite to create a new pivot bolt with longer shoulder. The shimming with washers had to be adjusted but all good now.
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Fender painted, it beats what's on there.
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sdjohn wrote:
Fender painted, it beats what's on there.
Umm, you painted it the wrong color, do it again. 😁
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Christopher_55934 wrote:
Umm, you painted it the wrong color, do it again. 😁
yeah it was never going to work out on a color match with faded rattle can gray body, so I'm going black and gray 2 tone on fender and cowls and any other random bits that need attention. I think it will work out!
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sdjohn wrote:
yeah it was never going to work out on a color match with faded rattle can gray body, so I'm going black and gray 2 tone on fender and cowls and any other random bits that need attention. I think it will work out!
I've been contemplating two tone on my robin egg blue Stella, also contemplating a gulf theme. I'm usually a less is better but like variations of this for some reason.
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Nice look! Mine is the simple "my cowls and fender had to be repainted" theme ROFL emoticon. And if I wasn't clear the bike is two tone but not the parts I'm painting, that's beyond my skill level.
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Next up in the "nothing to lose" bodywork course is this cowl. There are dents to fix, rust to convert, and a tear at the bottom. It seems all of my cowl pile has this tear on each piece. Should I get it welded? Can a muffler guy do this or do I need a specialist? Should I have them weld a reinforcement behind it since they all fail there??

On the back side, is it easier to leave the wiring and work around it or can it be removed from the pin without much fuss?
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Jet Eye Master
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UTC quote
Carefully remove the wire and it can be re used.

Panels always split there. Takes approx 20k miles. Weld, grind and forget for a while.
Looks like a similar job to the one I haven't finished yet. Will see how you get on.
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Lucky
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UTC quote
The whole pin/wire assembly is only like $8, as I recall. For that, I'd just replace it and know you have good copper in there.

I'm loving watching you work through the "nothing to lose (except paint and time)" bodywork course.

And you should have made Greasy weld that cowl for you before you took it home. I'm betting you didn't keep the receipt, either Razz emoticon
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Shit chandlerman that's genius! I'm gonna take my whole pile of cowls back to Greasy for quick welds when I go collect the pile he has for me yet. 😉
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I felt bad removing the Devil sticker, part of the bike's provenance.
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On the tear, can I just have an ugly ass weld on the back side and not even grind it down and use filler on the front? That's totally my style.
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Lucky
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I agree it's unfortunate, but these things happen.

I'm pretty sure you can get another one of you're worried the bike is going to get cursed, stolen, run itself into a tree, then get crashed because that sticker is missing.
This sticker may have been more important than I realized.
This sticker may have been more important than I realized.
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Lucky
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sdjohn wrote:
On the tear, can I just have an ugly ass weld on the back side and not even grind it down and use filler on the front? That's totally my style.
If it's your style, then you totally can. Hell, if you want to truly rock the FrankenRat look, you don't even need to grind down the front side. I'd roll on that, especially if it had a hot motor in it.
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chandlerman wrote:
I agree it's unfortunate, but these things happen.

I'm pretty sure you can get another one of you're worried the bike is going to get cursed, stolen, run itself into a tree, then get crashed because that sticker is missing.
i could still somehow put it back on and clear over it if required!
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Would body filler crack along the weld line?
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It probably doesn't work like my brain was thinking, if you weld it there's probably nothing left to fill with body filler, it's not thick enough for that to be an issue I imagine.
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Plus, grinding is my gig, I love getting out the dremel. Welding? No equipment and no skills!
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Well the expansion plug I got for pressure testing works well but motoseal and a gasket were not enough. I guess I'm resplitting the cases for a new gasket and using moto seal in this area.
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Lucky
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Damn

Rough day all around in ScooterProjectTown.
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UTC quote
Yeah and motoseal works well but is a pain in the ass to clean off.
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UTC quote
Isn't that just the Reed block leaking?
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Case gasket doesn't extend to the top edge
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Ahhh, gotcha!
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Jet Eye Master
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sucks!
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Well now we see once again the value of the pressure test before installing your motor.
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Lucky
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UTC quote
sdjohn wrote:
Well now we see once again the value of the pressure test before installing your motor.
+1

That gasket is too short, for sure. I've had that problem and fixed it by cutting a small piece of gasket paper to fill the gap, then glued it in with sealant up to the "T" with the reed block.

I always feel like a hack doing it, but if it passes the test, I'm not telling.
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sdjohn wrote:
On the tear, can I just have an ugly ass weld on the back side and not even grind it down and use filler on the front? That's totally my style.
Welded both my side panels, cracked in the same place as yours, as well as in the middle and near the indicator…

Ground the welds down, the engine side cracked again after 100kms and started to deform the panel (started bending towards the flywheel at all 3 spots)

I'm going to re-weld it with reinforcements and potentially try the scooter and service tweak that they did for the BFA engine…

Never wanna waste a side panel
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Lucky
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UTC quote
Calling that a "crack" is like me calling what I did to my knee a "boo-boo."
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