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Johnny Two Tone
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swiss1939 wrote:
The leg shield crash bars go with the square section up around the glove box and the tabs slide over the leg shield trim. Then just tighten the nuts until it's snug and double nut them to hold position.

Never seen those cowl protectors before.
Like this? What about the other piece, somehow a rear one for cowls?
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Can I get a silencer ID on these?
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UTC quote
sdjohn wrote:
Can I get a silencer ID on these?
left to right: standard box, 2 port stocker, sito for 125/150

do you need more? heh heh heh
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UTC quote
Looks like maybe a stock p150 on left.

A 2 port vnb or vbc in the middle.

Dealers choice on the one on the right? Early Sito?
LML 150? IDK.
⚠️ Last edited by Birdsnest on UTC; edited 1 time
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sdjohn wrote:
Which one you want? The rest are going on the lend a hand thread.
preferably one that won't neuter me when i go over a bump?... so maybe one that has a cover for it.
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sdjohn wrote:
Like this? What about the other piece, somehow a rear one for cowls?
no no, the other way around. the bar goes over the glovebox, but you can run them either way.

the others are straight up front crashbars. they're drill and mount style- on the shield and the floor board.

now that I'm thinking about it I totally should've given you some cowl bars too!! and maybe another rear rack or two!
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Christopher_55934 wrote:
Looks like Greasy is trying to clean out his garage a bit. The silver one doesn't look to be in bad shape. You should have it on the road by the end of the day.
HA! if only...

tell ya what, show up with a a truck and I'll send you home loaded!
(this is an open ended invitation to all youse guys)

that silver PX looks rough but it's actually a decent piece. paint is crap, but it's got good bones and I'm glad that it'll go to somebody that will do it justice.
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whodatschrome wrote:
preferably one that won't neuter me when i go over a bump?... so maybe one that has a cover for it.
fortune favors the brave. raw dog it, the springs feel good on your behind.





ETA, I have an ass ton of white covers if you wants.
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charlieman22 wrote:
greasy's garage hasn't had that much room to move around in a decade!
like the projects.
high ceilings, no floor space!

next time you're in van nuys hit me. I'm close by. it'd be cool to have cold one and catch up.
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Birdsnest wrote:
errr... ahh... If you have an extra P front hub in that pile of pirate booty Imma buyer.

Congrats all around!
kajiit house of wares has you covered.

*wry smile with a wink*
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Tierney wrote:
Wish Greasy lived closer. Vespas are scarce around here. And the ones out there are incredible overpriced. But good for you SDJohn and a hat tip to Greasy.
you got vacation time? three easy days here. a day to screw around. three easy days back man.

bring a minivan!
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greasy125 wrote:
HA! if only...

tell ya what, show up with a a truck and I'll send you home loaded!
(this is an open ended invitation to all youse guys)

that silver PX looks rough but it's actually a decent piece. paint is crap, but it's got good bones and I'm glad that it'll go to somebody that will do it justice.
I may take you up on this offer. But I've got a ways go to. NYC to LA and back!
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UTC quote
sdjohn wrote:
Like this? What about the other piece, somehow a rear one for cowls?
Never seen that top cross bar. It sounds interesting the way Greasy says it flips over the shield so that it covers the top of the glovebox? Or did he mean it goes the other end covering the footrest area?

I'd like to see how it gets mounted correctly. The other one on grass I have no idea how it goes.
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SoCalGuy wrote:
Looks like you fellers did some good ol fashun horse tradin’. Sweet deal all around.
took a bit of logistics, but I'm very happy that John took a bunch of stuff out of my pile and got some good parts and projects. and hanging with him was a blast.

so, when are you coming up to buy a whole bunch of my stuff?





p.s. John got all affordable stuff. so, um, bring dough.
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sdjohn wrote:
P series?
those were on a VBB

I have another set to send you, but I don't think I have end caps.

they'll come with the second cashe of parts...
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swiss1939 wrote:
Never seen that top cross bar. It sounds interesting the way Greasy says it flips over the shield so that it covers the top of the glovebox? Or did he mean it goes the other end covering the footrest area?

I'd like to see how it gets mounted correctly. The other one on grass I have no idea how it goes.
it's 50/50, it can be assembled either way either in front or back and over the glovebox. the side bars come up the shield and protect the glovebox area, and the bar just slips on so you can run it either way.

that one on the grass is old school drill and mount. sturdy AF but gotta make sure it's line up before punching holes.
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a quick maiden voyage:



[img]https://i.imgur.com/DNnCjsW.mp4[/img]




ETA: sorry... trying to post direct, but not cooperating.

here's the direct:

https://i.imgur.com/DNnCjsW.mp4
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Johnny Two Tone
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I gave you an ignition key…it was with the column keys!
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sdjohn wrote:
I gave you an ignition key…it was with the column keys!
I know, it was just easier to grab my pocket screwdriver!

and I thought funnier.



(to note, yes, John did give me keys for the bike. I was being goofy)
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votes - start a new thread for the PX adventure or continue on here?

I sent off the paperwork to Saints Cycle Works to get a title for the px, since there were no papers. Top notch guy, he helped me figure out how to call the NICB and check the status of a bike for stolen or salvage claims. On the 4 bikes I ran, one was salvage title (I knew that but they confirmed it), and one was stolen at one point and recovered. You can use their web site to do modern VIN bikes very easy but our old short vins don't work on the web page.

My garage is now clean and everything stowed. For the PX, first up is probably drain the ancient fuel, put some vinegar in the tank for a bit, new spark plug, and clean the carb. Want to try to see what we are dealing with here.

The VBB and my newly acquired "stuff" fit on the loft section I made last weekend. The VBB is behind the boxes, really .
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⚠️ Last edited by sdjohn on UTC; edited 1 time
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UTC quote
sdjohn wrote:
You can use their web site to do modern VIN bikes very easy but our old short vins don't work on the web page.
I figured out that you can do short VIN's, you just fill the gap between the model type and the actual serial # with 0's and it'll figure it out.

Well, I sort've figured it out when I saw that's how the lady at the Tennessee DMV entered the VIN into their system
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Like vnx2t 000000 123456 but no spaces??
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Lucky
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UTC quote
sdjohn wrote:
Like vnx2t 000000 123456 but no spaces??
Yup. So the VIN of my GL is "VLA1T00000000050368" if I look it up at https://www.nicb.org/vincheck
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Gas tank looks super clean inside, win!

Fuel lines hard as a rock. Ordered up the carb rebuild kit, fuel tap, new fuel line, fuel line disconnect, and a proper fork bearing tool.
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UTC quote
Electrical time!

Hooked up the battery charger and connected to output of the regulator. I'm not really entirely sure which wiring diagram to work from. I'm using this one, but I don't see a rectifier on the bike, only a regulator. So I think it's close but not quite right. It's the only one I can find for a battery less VNX2....

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

It's hard for me to tell what parts (if any) are actually DC in my bike or if it's all AC. At any rate, using the battery charger gave:
-rear brake light works from floor pedal (unable to test front brake switch - no cable/lever action
-rear running light works
-fuel gauge and low warning light work (moving tank to simulate different levels)
-high/low beams work

Turn signals - not so much. If they are AC, I'm not surprised the flasher isn't clicking with DC supply. If I turn them on, the rear one will light and hold steady, but the front one does not on either side. I'm not sure if this is just a side effect of the testing method, we will see once the bike runs.

The bezel does not light up, so I went hunting for the bulb and got a surprise - the PX speedo is a mystery to me. Are there replaceable bulbs here? How? And even if I think I can pull those square things out to replace a bulb - I don't see a bulb for the back illumination of the bezel..... I"m stumped!
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greasy125 wrote:
you got vacation time? three easy days here. a day to screw around. three easy days back man.

bring a minivan!
I may take you up on that. Guy at work rode all the way out to Red Rocks last week just to see Billy Strings and a Dead band. If he could do, why not me, heh, heh. Razz emoticon Gotta raise some more coin first.
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UTC quote
sdjohn wrote:
Electrical time!

Hooked up the battery charger and connected to output of the regulator. I'm not really entirely sure which wiring diagram to work from. I'm using this one, but I don't see a rectifier on the bike, only a regulator. So I think it's close but not quite right. It's the only one I can find for a battery less VNX2....

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

It's hard for me to tell what parts (if any) are actually DC in my bike or if it's all AC. At any rate, using the battery charger gave:
-rear brake light works from floor pedal (unable to test front brake switch - no cable/lever action
-rear running light works
-fuel gauge and low warning light work (moving tank to simulate different levels)
-high/low beams work

Turn signals - not so much. If they are AC, I'm not surprised the flasher isn't clicking with DC supply. If I turn them on, the rear one will light and hold steady, but the front one does not on either side. I'm not sure if this is just a side effect of the testing method, we will see once the bike runs.

The bezel does not light up, so I went hunting for the bulb and got a surprise - the PX speedo is a mystery to me. Are there replaceable bulbs here? How? And even if I think I can pull those square things out to replace a bulb - I don't see a bulb for the back illumination of the bezel..... I"m stumped!
Yes, You're on the right track that the black square things are the bulb holders. Give them a 1/4 turn to remove them. The US market 2005 PX has a total of 5 bulbs...one for the high beam, one for the turn signal, one for the low fuel light, and two for the speedo back light...BUT one of those speedo back lights also does double duty as the "engine is running" indicator light (or as a low beam indicator for the Euro market).
⚠️ Last edited by whodatschrome on UTC; edited 1 time
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greasy125 wrote:
fortune favors the brave. raw dog it, the springs feel good on your behind.





ETA, I have an ass ton of white covers if you wants.
Dude...i'm going to take you up on that offer. A white cover would be the icing on the cake to make my red PX even more stupid that it currently is.
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Johnny Two Tone
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So whodats, this is an 86 euro model, would it only have 4 then? I only see 4 and I saw 3 of them light up, only the turn signal didn’t.
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sdjohn wrote:
So whodats, this is an 86 euro model, would it only have 4 then? I only see 4 and I saw 3 of them light up, only the turn signal didn’t.
Safis would probably know for sure, but i think that your particular model might only have one light for the speedo. I think that's the case for my 1985 PK125XL.
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UTC quote
One amazing thing I forgot to mention is that all the wiring looks virgin, no signs of butchery thank goodness!!
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UTC quote
John, everything is AC on this model. Link below, has the correct diagram. Speedo bulbs are the four small black “squarish” thingies. Give them half a turn counterclockwise and you get them out. They are automotive bulbs (T5 wedge type) so widely available. The speedo lights up partially from the lights “ON” indicator and high beam, no dedicated illumination. For the turn signals to work, all bulbs must be 12V 21W and speedo turn indicator bulb should also be OK. Also, every ground point should be clean of rust. The indicators light up alternately and not simultaneously, so it’s front left on, rear left off and then reverse. If you get only front or rear, do a test by swapping the red and white wires on the flasher. If they reverse, then probably one output of the flasher is “burnt”. If not, one of the wires on the switch is probably broken (again red or white)…

P.S. No front brake switch for these models, only in the UK and some other markets…

https://www.scooter-center.com/media/image/d8/dd/e9/Schaltplan_c17.jpg
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SaFiS wrote:
John, everything is AC on this model. Link below, has the correct diagram. Speedo bulbs are the four small black “squarish” thingies. Give them half a turn counterclockwise and you get them out. They are automotive bulbs (T5 wedge type) so widely available. The speedo lights up partially from the lights “ON” indicator and high beam, no dedicated illumination. For the turn signals to work, all bulbs must be 12V 21W and speedo turn indicator bulb should also be OK. Also, every ground point should be clean of rust. The indicators light up alternately and not simultaneously, so it’s front left on, rear left off and then reverse. If you get only front or rear, do a test by swapping the red and white wires on the flasher. If they reverse, then probably one output of the flasher is “burnt”. If not, one of the wires on the switch is probably broken (again red or white)…

P.S. No front brake switch for these models, only in the UK and some other markets…

https://www.scooter-center.com/media/image/d8/dd/e9/Schaltplan_c17.jpg
SaFis you're my hero.
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Well I was doing some fun stuff today like putting on some signals stolen from the Stella when I had the urge to see if the bike has compression. Ummm stuck solid. Good thing sir Greasy stuffed an extra motor and an extra set of cases my way. Looks like we’re gonna build an engine!
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So my options:
-deal with the stuck vnx engine (probably will, but I don't think this will happen first). I had been thinking DR180 for this one.
-build a 2 port engine, i have one that should be gone through to check but spins free. may get away with seals and inspect parts. if I do this, I'm thinking 2 port pinasco kit.
-build the Stella, has a 166 Malossi kit on it and spins free. maybe get away with seals and parts inspection
-take the 2 port engine parts and build them into a spare set of 2 port cases that already have the 3rd port cut and are ported for Malossi. this one means full build all new bearings etc.

Eventually I wanted to run the 3 engines through the px frame anyway. One of these will become the VBB engine at some point (conversion to 8" gearing when that happens).

I guess now's as good a time as any to explain my thoughts on what this bike is and is not going to be.
-I will not tune the snot out of it. I remember vividly from the P200 that no one will pay for your tuning work and they are afraid to buy it. So if you don't feel like tuning, keep it simple. I don't feel like spending months tuning aftermarket carbs...
-Only stuff that will run with a 20.20 carb, no fuel pumps or aftermarket carbs
-My pipe collection is a sito plus, a stock 150 box, and a couple of expansion pipes (I forget what they are again - a Simonini and a Pinasco I think). I'm not looking to expand it, but maybe would do it for one of the better box pipes.
-My goal is to have fun with the bike but minimal investment. It's got plenty of bondo and is a bit rough around the edges but will clean up nice.
-Practice painting cowls and a fender, learn basic body skills
-Repair the bubbly floor (surface stuff only), learn to rivet floor rails, and hide the non-matching paint with the PX mat that belongs on here anyway
-maybe do the stella fork in here, but honestly I think it falls into the category of things that will not be rewarded by the next owner with $$, and makes me swap headset bottom, which is kind of a nightmare for not damaging wiring

In short, it's a great test lab for skills I wanted to build and there's little downside to not doing them awesome because it's not a museum piece. I will rock it and see if I bond with it. In the meantime I will keep gathering parts to make a VBB. I can't have both at the same time unless I unload one of my moderns and I'm not ready to do that at this point, they are too much fun!
@geeklion avatar
UTC

The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2287
Location: PNW from LBC
 
The Dude
@geeklion avatar
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2287
Location: PNW from LBC
UTC quote
Sounds like a solid plan. Looking forward to see this come together.

I say...build the Stella 166 motor. Give it a once over, and slap it in. Gets you a running scooter with least amount of effort.
@greasy125 avatar
UTC

Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
Joined: UTC
Posts: 15079
Location: The state of insanity, SoCal
 
Sergeant at Arms
@greasy125 avatar
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
Joined: UTC
Posts: 15079
Location: The state of insanity, SoCal
UTC quote
build the 166, while it's been a while since i was in there it was always rock solid. probably just throw a standard soft parts rebuild on it and roll.

I'd probably do the disc, but for the amount of hustle you're not getting much ROI, and you can sell off that set up pretty easy.

that bike ran the pinasco pipe (chrome one) and hauled balls. he only changed it because the neighbors complained.

I'd break the 150 motor and see what's up. it might be something simple. if not, you know you have the resources here to walk you thru it!

the plan on the vbb sounds tight. copy birbs set up, or go nuts with that 3 port case.

I'll dig over the next few days and see what all else I can come up with for those cases.

but you hit it on the head. great learning instruments! low stakes!
OP
@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9004
Location: San Diego, CA
 
Johnny Two Tone
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9004
Location: San Diego, CA
UTC quote
Malossi cleaned off and on the bench. And no, that is NOT Vaderclean (tm). It was horrendous.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9004
Location: San Diego, CA
 
Johnny Two Tone
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9004
Location: San Diego, CA
UTC quote
Well so much for the easy build
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9004
Location: San Diego, CA
 
Johnny Two Tone
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9004
Location: San Diego, CA
UTC quote
probably the easiest way forward is a hone and a new piston, I'm guessing. the clutch is 21t, but had no woodruff key (maybe it's in the gearbox ). I need to borrow an impact screwdriver to get one of the stator screws out, it's stuck.

how do I tell what version of malossi piston I need? maybe I'll run it down to scooter west....
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