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sdjohn wrote:
well the new crank arrives today - perhaps we'll measure before installing for science
Yes, please do!
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FINYoshi wrote:
The one used on the video above has bearings to roll the crankshaft on. I don't like this because bearings always have their tolerances and play which adds unnecessary uncertainty to the measurement. V-shape wedge is better and if you are worried about leaving a slight marks on your crank bearing necks, you can add a strip of softer metal to the edge. This should not be necessary though, because you will not be spinning the crank on the stand (at least hopefully) for thousands of revolutions. Smooth surfaces on the V with dab of oil and you are golden.

1. Make it beefy enough - you don't want to guess if you have flex
2. No need to make it very tall unless you want to use if for some static balancing action
3. Adjustment for crank width is nice to have
4. Get two dial gauges with mounts to see both sides of the crank at same time
My vision of a stand coming together. Still going to shape the ends like V and line them with some softer metal like brass. Plate is big enough to comfortably mount magnetic stands for dial indicators and there is a possibility to drill additional holes to accomodate almost any crank. If one side has a bearkng sleeve, washers can be applied under the holding arms to compensate.
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I managed to get it within +/- .001" (about 0.002" total) on each far end by using the video above. Is that good enough? It's a lot closer than it was. For now, it seems each side is asking for the opposite correction of the other side, so this is the happy middle. Probably means something about the pin itself or about my measurement steadiness.

I'm not sure that I dare to reinstall the collar and use it. Do I?
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My notes from the video
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found this on the interwebs - it looks like my 0.002" may be OK.

Scootering used to do some pretty kick ass articles.
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UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
Lucky for you, you Know A Guy who has a couple smallie cranks close at hand.

65mm is going to be pretty wide, and definitely can't be done with a bearing race/bearing in place.
Thanks, C'man!

New iteration should work on any crank, with or without a race installed. Height/width adjustable.

3/16 x 1 1/2" aluminum flatbar riser. One tube fixed. The other slides horizontally.

Getting past the $20 fixed 65mm plan, but maybe you guys can get some ideas. If I did it again both posts would be adjustable aluminum landings.

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UTC quote
Ray8 wrote:
Thanks, C'man!

New iteration should work on any crank, with or without a race installed. Height/width adjustable.

3/16 x 1 1/2" aluminum flatbar riser. One tube fixed. The other slides horizontally.

Getting past the $20 fixed 65mm plan, but maybe you guys can get some ideas. If I did it again both posts would be adjustable aluminum landings.

If this is going into limited production, I'll throw $20 plus shipping! Or more if the initial pricing was under shot. It looks like a perfect tool.
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It lives!! Anyone need a brand new crank for a slight discount??

Laughing emoticon
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UTC quote
sdjohn wrote:
It lives!! Anyone need a brand new crank for a slight discount??
That's awesome! Also goes to show how much of a difference checking if things are to spec makes.
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Well done! Good thing to be able to check…even in a new one.
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UTC quote
other key lessons from today:
-sneak up on your adjustments, but you will get a feel pretty quick how hard to hit things. I had a bit of spread going but I used the vice and ended up in squished condition - I guess that was too much, but a quick hit with a wedge and it was sorted. The majority of my issue was twist, as suspected.
-a big brass drift about the width of a hammer handle works well with a regular hammer if you don't have the brass one
-that guy in the video knows his stuff
-don't try to judge if you've succeeded while the crank puller is still installed and the other case half is not - it will freak you out unnecessarily. the crank was hitting the rotary pad until I removed the cantilevered weight.
-don't order the new parts until you are sure the old ones are trash ROFL emoticon
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Good sorting!
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UTC quote
Runout on new Mazz crank:
0.001" on fly side
so small it can't be measured with this indicator on clutch side
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sdjohn wrote:
Runout on new Mazz crank:
0.001" on fly side
so small it can't be measured with this indicator on clutch side
Yup, even the new ones. Those Mazz boxes are shit. Wish they'd pack them better for shipping. I wouldn't ship a paperweight like that.
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Yeah
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sdjohn wrote:
Yeah
Exactly how mine arrived. JFC. It's a crankshaft, not an old ashtray.
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crank sold! mjrally is taking it off my hands
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swiss1939 wrote:
If this is going into limited production, I'll throw $20 plus shipping! Or more if the initial pricing was under shot. It looks like a perfect tool.
The next run are looking more like $45.
I can send you the prototype in the video for $0 + shipping if you want to try it out.
Just DM me your address.

I'll make another 4 next week, both landings aluminum with CNC'd landings/channels, and put 3 in the Classifieds.
Only doing this for fun!
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Ray8 wrote:
The next run are looking more like $45.
I can send you the prototype in the video for $0 + shipping if you want to try it out.
Just DM me your address.

I'll make another 4 next week, both landings aluminum with CNC'd landings/channels, and put 3 in the Classifieds.
Only doing this for fun!
I'll take one!
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Ray8 count me in!
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me three!
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UTC quote
Son of a bitch dropped it trying to fit it.

It's not sealing surface, think it's ok.
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⚠️ Last edited by sdjohn on UTC; edited 1 time
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Ugly duckling but it will be fine. Hidden by the Vaders helmet anyways
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UTC quote
Leak test 10 psi goes to 8 over 10 minutes. Every leak I found was on the tester interfaces. I don't think there's more that can be done, nothing is bubbling with soapy water. I think it's ok.
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Shroud debacle - I think it's for an early engine, the cowl cover and it don't get along.
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Initial jetting

48/160
Be3
160ac
107 mj for sito
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Junction box fail
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UTC quote
sdjohn wrote:
Junction box fail
Why's it a fail? When I started cleaning mine up I got rid of junctions and soldered it all together, added water tight heat shrink tubing. I don't see me fixing it on the side of the rode with a new stator.
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Christopher_55934 wrote:
Why's it a fail? When I started cleaning mine up I got rid of junctions and soldered it all together, added water tight heat shrink tubing. I don't see me fixing it on the side of the rode with a new stator.
Box for a PX. He needs the smaller square shaped one for the Super cases.
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It is a px engine but the wire exit lands at the screw of the air box, need this one, what is it???
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I found the detail of why it doesn't work. The box I have is for estart and the one I need is for not e-start.

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/junction-box-piaggio_21683700
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looks like a SIP order via Mercato is required because Mercato is out of stock

anyone else do that when Mercato is out of stock? It's like a prompt - please get these back in stock....
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sdjohn wrote:
anyone else do that when Mercato is out of stock?
Numerous times
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I ordered this one too (Piaggio code: 216837)
https://www.lambretta-teile.de/Wire-connector-PIAGGIO-Vespa-PX-Lusso-without-Elestart

Either I got the wrong part or the new Piaggio parts are just no good. It fouled the airbox so I just shortened the airbox side exit.
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Also the original had the airbox side exit from center of the junction box:
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Heads up for you to double check before you order a wrong part.
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Thanks Finyoshi
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I'm beginning to think I just had a wrong part delivered though.
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Actually two mishaps combined. I ordered the wrong one Facepalm emoticon
https://www.lambretta-teile.de/Cable-connection-box-PIAGGIO-Vespa-PX-Lusso-T5

... and they seem to have image of a wrong box on their product page:
https://www.lambretta-teile.de/Wire-connector-PIAGGIO-Vespa-PX-Lusso-without-Elestart

Sent a message to Marco so product images could be corrected.
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Ha very good. I was starting to doubt the part pictures on SIP but now we know what happened.
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Well the plot thickens once again Laughing emoticon

When I asked if the images are wrong on this product page:
https://www.lambretta-teile.de/Wire-connector-PIAGGIO-Vespa-PX-Lusso-without-Elestart

Response:

"Thats whats Piaggio sends us at this part code, we have no influence on that…

Mit freundlichen Grüßen / best regards
Marco Büttner"

It seems not to be an error on LTH, just Piaggio superceding a part with newer and less compatible one Facepalm emoticon
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[ Time: 0.2237s ][ Queries: 4 (0.1906s) ][ Debug on ][ 309 ][ Thing One ]