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we will see what happens when you order that part number from SIP as a comparison...
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Worst case I steal the one I'm using off the Stella engine until I get the right one again.
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sdjohn wrote:
Worst case I steal the one I'm using off the Stella engine until I get the right one again.
slippery slope, John... tread carefully. otherwise next thing you know it'll be: hey I have a good top end on that running bike...
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greasy125 wrote:
slippery slope, John... tread carefully. otherwise next thing you know it'll be: hey I have a good top end on that running bike...
That's why I ordered one! Plus the Stella engine is getting yanked for the px engine to go in. I swear I will behave ROFL emoticon
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ok so we were talking about using the pullers to push out things (crank). does one of the pullers work to push out the rear axle? That's the other one I hate hammering out. I realized the crank puller can pull in the rear axle with the right adaptor. But how to push it out?
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Lucky
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I just tap the axle out with a punch.
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I guess you could make a pusher/puller for almost anything on the engine, even the bearings. You could also get a cheap HF press and do the same thing.

I don't like hammering stuff…even tapping. Drifting in bearings gives me the jitters. You really have to heat the case a lot to drop in bearings. Tapping out the axle never bothered me. The few I've done have tapped out easily.
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sdjohn wrote:
ok so we were talking about using the pullers to push out things (crank). does one of the pullers work to push out the rear axle? That's the other one I hate hammering out. I realized the crank puller can pull in the rear axle with the right adaptor. But how to push it out?
I end up using a huge 12" bearing puller which can reach around to the sealing surface, and add small sheets of aluminium and rubber to protect the clamp arms and push the output shaft out.

It's basically a mobile big press… I have a photo somewhere of it in use, but can't seem to find it.

Here's the puller, smallframe crank for size comparison
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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that is huge 108. if you have the photo pass it on when you find it.
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sdjohn wrote:
that is huge 108. if you have the photo pass it on when you find it.
Can't seem to find the photo… but I'm SURE I remember taking one because I was like "this looks a little insane"

It looks something similar to how I push in output shaft bearings
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sdjohn wrote:
ok so we were talking about using the pullers to push out things (crank). does one of the pullers work to push out the rear axle? That's the other one I hate hammering out. I realized the crank puller can pull in the rear axle with the right adaptor. But how to push it out?
Light steady taps with a nut on and gears removed/supported by hand is more or less = to pulling. Either method stresses the bearing somewhat, since the inner race can't be supported inside the case.

If the bearing's new the crankshaft will tap out slowly but surely. If it isn't you're replacing it anyway.................right?
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Ray8 wrote:
Light steady taps with a nut on and gears removed/supported by hand is more or less = to pulling. Either method stresses the bearing somewhat, since the inner race can't be supported inside the case.

If the bearing's new the crankshaft will tap out slowly but surely. If it isn't you're replacing it anyway.................right?
yeah bearings always get replaced in my builds but sometimes the shaft has to come back out for whatever reason and it gives me the willies to do that to the new bearing. comes with the territory. the nut on taps is my usual way of doing business. sounds funny ROFL emoticon
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Makes perfect sense if you want to keep the bearing.
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VERY close to finishing the adjustable truing stand:

Here's where I'm at:
Will fit in a small flat-rate Priority Mail box Clap emoticon
Shipping $10 domestic and $40 international.

Will look like this one in the video, only a little wider base, and longer vertical channels in the aluminum landings so a crank can be trued/checked with a bearing installed. The tube on the left will be bolted vs welded to fit it all in that box.
I'll make 6 tomorrow. If they test out, I'll DM you guys who were interested.

This crank was way off at the taper(.0016). Took 1/2 an hour of trial and much error with a brass hammer to get it to .0002 but I've got it now. Very counterintuitive as an amateur.


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Lucky
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Ray8 wrote:
VERY close to finishing the adjustable truing stand:

Here's where I'm at:
Will fit in a small flat-rate Priority Mail box Clap emoticon
Shipping $10 domestic and $40 international.

Will look like this one in the video, only a little wider base, and longer vertical channels in the aluminum landings so a crank can be trued/checked with a bearing installed. The tube on the left will be bolted vs welded to fit it all in that box.
I'll make 6 tomorrow. If they test out, I'll DM you guys who were interested.

This crank was way off at the taper(.0016). Took 1/2 an hour of trial and much error with a brass hammer to get it to .0002 but I've got it now. Very counterintuitive as an amateur.

Sign me up!

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
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Me too please! The stand looks awesome!
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Ray8, looking badass! I'm still down for one.
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John, managed to get a photo of the puller in action for pressing out the drive shaft…

It's on the smallie, but it's the same with the largeframe.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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that's cool!
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It's the only way I could think of to push the output shaft with.

Of course folks might use a press, but hey…
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Played with C'man's truing stand yesterday while packing it. I imagine not everyone has a metal table or plate to put in on, so I tried it out on plywood.
No magnets on either -- just the weight of the magnetic stand and the weight of the crank & stand.

With both posts now bolted vs one side welded you can press down on the base plates with one hand while tightening and eliminate wobble very close/equal to using magnets.

BTW I painted them while waiting for hardware. Please consider that a shop coat, done by a guy who forgot his reading glasses!
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On plywood. At my garage that's all I got.

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fits lambretta cranks too!

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

thanks ray!! this thing is awesome!!

best $40 I've spent since a steamy 4th of July weekend in Florabama with a blonde named Linda Lou!
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Got mine too! Haven't unboxed it yet.

In other news, greasy stocked me up on Andre as a bonus gift while grabbing a few parts.
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kajuit is thankful for the cash influx and the parts outgoing!

also, it was good to see ya, albeit briefly.

you're gonna love the stand. ray did a bang up job
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greasy125 wrote:
fits lambretta cranks too!

thanks ray!! this thing is awesome!!

best $40 I've spent since a steamy 4th of July weekend in Florabama with a blonde named Linda Lou!
Awesome!
So glad to hear this, Greasy.

Had a great time making them.
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Sweet
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Now I just need to grab a dial indicator. Harbor freight most likely.
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Wow, this thing is precision built. Thanks so much! I'll post another pic when I get the dial indicator on it.

Wait until my friends see this from the Top Dead Center SC - I may be hitting you up for a couple more

Thanks again Ray - it's really appreciated!
Oh yeahhhhh
Oh yeahhhhh
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sdjohn wrote:
Now I just need to grab a dial indicator. Harbor freight most likely.
I bought this one off Amazon. I haven't used it yet so we'll see ...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BXC2DH9
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sdjohn wrote:
Now I just need to grab a dial indicator. Harbor freight most likely.
Their clamp-on looks interesting:
https://www.harborfreight.com/clamping-dial-indicator-63656.html
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Yeah I saw that one. Not sure if I'd rather buy the regular indicator and stand or have the clamp deal. The clamp might mar my pretty surface on the stand. Maybe it would clamp to something else.
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My stand arrived today. Beautiful work, Ray!

I have a magnetic clamp for my dial indicator arriving tomorrow, so may be able to test it out on a spare crank tomorrow night.
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Engine out!
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Curses!!
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Mother fu^%#r.
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Wedge a torx bit in and unscrew it…
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I ended up pulling the engine again and drilling with smaller to bigger bits until it came out, and then ran a tap through. Totally ruined my groove (speed-wise), I got the engine rehung and had to quit but at least it's a roller. The torx bit would have been easier…

My fuel tap wasn't shutting off and created a lake for me but when I tried opening and closing the tap after it started working fine. Ugh.
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BTW - add to the "never do" list - thinking that you can undo the kingpin to get better access to the clutch adjuster with a drill. The whole thing ended up hanging so weird and I nearly lost it as the bike weight shifted, etc. I realized I was screwed and got the connections off and the rear shock eventually. I did lose my grip and it took a 2" drop to the concrete with the drum taking that. The sound was not reassuring but I see nothing damaged. I'm not sure what I was thinking now that I look back on it.
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Would a double nut and backing it out work?
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