Modern Vespa

Ok paint removal, what are your best methods? I’m not into chemicals, so I thought I could just sandblast this fender easy. The underside cleared off pretty fast but the upper is tough. Probably wants some sanding with 60 grit first to make it easier to blast?

Yes, the cut down fender is going on the bike….

This is practice for cowls later.

There is also the Stella specific service station manual:

http://iheartstella.com/resources/manuals/stella-service-station-manual.pdf

but I tend to just use the PX one because it is easier to read:

https://www.scooterhelp.com/manuals/VNX1T.VSX1T.service.manual/VNX1T.VSX1T.serv.man.r.pdf

or when at my garage I just use the haynes manual cause its the best organized version of them all.

When I stripped the GL, I used chemical stripper and a wire wheel on my angle grinder.

I got a couple spots with the grinder alone and it was like 10x the work to get the paint off without stripping. That old paint and primer is TOUGH.

If you really want to avoid chemicals, I'd try heating it up, then hitting it with the wire wheel.

I just got the heat gun, so I will see what it can do . I will try that and then either wire wheel or hand sand.

This is just for fun because my engine parts aren't here yet. I figured I had nothing to lose. I have a good stock fender that is in primer already, so risk factor is very low. First lesson of this game - I'm not taking the cowls I'm gonna paint down to bare metal since the paint is not bubbling or flaking. They will get sand and paint instead. It should more than suffice for what this bike is.

Let us know how it goes with the heat. I'd prefer to avoid the chemicals, but went that route for lack of a better option.

I'm going to be doing some paint work of my own in the weeks ahead, but will not be taking things to bare metal if I can avoid it.

honestly I think I can smooth the bare to painted transitions and just work with this thing as it is. Probably no need to go further, just smooth and prime.

if you can keep OG paint and primer, do so. that stuff is tough as balls and already firmly adhered to the metal.

sometimes you can just feather it out, etch prime and feather it back in. wet sand and make it look okay.

going down to bare metal if for restos. just make it 10 on 10. ten feet or ten mph and it looks great!

Today’s haul from the lend a helping hand thread. Thanks to friday matinee!

That's a Clauss Studio tail light gasket too, I hear they're all the rage these days!

sarcasm aside that gasket is so soft and supple it's kind of amazing.

It’s all looking good, I think I’m gonna start with the 150 on my engine build. Thanks!

Don't do the heat gun. That's just nasty, unnecessary work.

Very welcome sir!

ok I’m on to the feather out what’s left and move on plan!

If the original paint’s solid (i.e., not flaking, bubbling, cracking, etc.) it makes a fine base for a respray. The Max Meyer Bilux was a super high VOC coating that was as tough or tougher than just about anything you can buy in California today. No need to remove it… scuff, feather, prime and you’re good for another 25 years. It’s the rust inside and under the frame you need to deal with.

Fortunately on the frame there all we have is surface rust on the floor from a former respray. That will get wire wheeled, treated, primed, and painted, then hidden by a px mat, since this is… a px! I checked the tunnel and it looks solid. There is one spot of crumbly rust behind the front wheel that you can’t poke through. I expect to wire wheel it, treat it, fill it, and apply a tiny local paint job there when the fork is out.

So my bearing and seal kit came from Mercato today. The one behind the selector box wasn’t included. Is it a sin to skip replacing it? Thank God I skipped driving out bearings until I saw what arrived…

I’d leave it. They barely go bad…

This mf’er was on all the way to the web and did not want to leave.

Previous mechanic hack work = scarred seal surface and flywheel taper. Emery cloth plus a lapping job of flywheel to crank should make this ok.

How deep does the axle seal go again?

Isn't there a circlip that fits over it? So deep enough for the circlip.

I have a Stella motor with no axle in it that I can gimp out to the workshop and confirm with if you need me to.

The circlip is right over the bearing, so I could push this thing in quite a bit more.

Maybe bearing->circlip->seal, then. I'm having a hard time visualizing right now.

Like this

I don't think that seal is in there quite far enough in any case.

I just took this photo of some LML cases and no circlip, but definitely deeper seal seat.

Thanks, will revisit when I get to hub/backplate, easy to push deeper but harder to fish out without harming it

Sausage says I've done it correctly:

Primary is in, I skipped the Cush drive rebuild because I will have to open it to do the primary swap when I convert to 8”.

Clutch didn’t cooperate so easy, brass bushing had to be drifted (gently!) on and then emery cloth used to let the gear plate over it. Top plate notches horribly stamped, top of the “t” too thick to fit in the notches. I tried some Dremel work, lost patience, and started tapping it in with a hammer. At which point I realized I’d twisted and ruined the plate by going so. (Duh). So I rescued the old one and will reuse it, screw it. I’ve seen poor top plate stamping before, quality control not so hot these days…

Ok wtf is up with this auto lube plug, is it supposed to go in the block? Cuz it is not close to fitting… I tried the reed valve but it sticks out and would still need to fit in this hole….

Everything fits with a big enough hammer

Today had so many it doesn’t fit moments, ugh

I think it's because so many of these parts are now copy-of-a-copy-of-a-copy that the tolerances are all a matter of luck.

Everything is a nail if all you got is a hammer!

All kidding aside, the last two clutches I’ve done were ill fitting and the last Cush was a nightmare.

But you seem to be trucking along! Good strides my dude!

Making headway, need my next Mercato order for a 36t 4th before doing the gear stack. You know I will need a shim after it arrives and measures big or small on the free play . Also waiting on a ball hone to clean up that 150 cylinder and the new rings are in the same Mercato order. It should be together soon though.

Can anyone snap a pic of the missing parts here on the front brake setup? I’m having trouble sorted by out how much is missing without a reference handy

...

Different for px? I have a bolt there that you don’t… hmm. My other reference part is a Stella disc fork.

Oooph...
Sorry I thought we were early P era.

No problem we are all learning on this one.