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What would the charging with car impact the electronics in the scooter?

We drove it back to the house with full operation but once I turned it off, it went dark.

Replaced the battery which I have recharged as it sat.
Checked fuses under seat. Seemed OK.
Replaced the Voltage Regulator. (which was very difficult but ultimately successful I think. These were not good series per Robot of Vespa Motor Sport )

Only the beeping signal shows on the dash which is otherwise blank.

Ignition makes no noise when key inserted.

I'm going through the check list of electronics problems for beginners here at Modern Vespa.

Any suggestions? Or info on what might have been blown when I jumpstarted with car running?

Many thanks. We live in the countryside and maybe a mouse has chewed a wire.
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Yes, large voltage spikes from the engine running especially when connecting the jump leads could have damaged the ECU. Sorry to be the bearer of potentially bad news.

A car battery is fine for starting a bike - just don't have that engine running!
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ECU? Is it fixable? Replaceable?
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vjmaury wrote:
ECU? Is it fixable? Replaceable?
If it is fried then probably not fixable. Possibly could be reset if it is still alive.

I think this is what you are looking at to https://www.scooterwest.com/vespa-throttle-body-ecu-gts-250cc-cm078201.html.

I would go over everything again though. Wires, fuses etc.
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If it ran after jump starting it, the problem is almost certainly not the ECU.
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The ECU is in the throttle body. This is what might have to be replaced. Not cheap - ~$700.

However, as it drove home OK before it went dark, double check all fuses etc. By etc I mean check their connections as well. Sometimes it's the fuseholder that is dodgy. Also, the battery may have died so completely that even coming straight off the charger it won't fire up the bike. Double check that with your voltmeter. Don't have a voltmeter? Hie thee to Harbor Freight and get one for $10.
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I changed the battery went for a ride.

Then it needed to be jumped.

We drove it back home.

It started and stopped a few times.

Then it would not start so we changed the voltage regulator which would seem to fix the issue of battery not recharging.

It will not start and the display is dark.

The "code" signal flashed single bursts for a few days but that has no gone dark too.

Is there something wrong with the battery that reading the voltage does not indicate?

Is there any way to test the ECU?

Thanks for quick input.
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The voltmeter reads 12.82.
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It's not the ECU - I'm sorry I brought up that possibility.

Have you got a multimeter? You need to check the continuity from the battery through the ignition switch. I can't remember with the 250 - does the headlight normally come on with the ignition switched on? If so, and it now doesn't, then it could just be the ignition switch has failed.
⚠️ Last edited by jimc on UTC; edited 1 time
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What prevents the display screen from not lighting up?
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When you say "ignition switch," can you give me a link to the actual part?
How do I test the switch?

The "code" signal has gone dark. Does this mean anything?

I answer to other question I think the lights turn on when I turn it on. The rear light turned on once before it went completely dead.

Thanks so much.

It only has 1000 miles. It was running perfectly fine. I was taking a ride down some beautiful New England roads here in CT NW corner.
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If the voltage doesn'r change or drops when you rev the engine, it could be the stator that went out.
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Let's start with the basics - you need a voltmeter. What voltage do you get across the battery?
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To jimc 12.84
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The scooter does not turn over.

The screen is blank.

The "code" light blinked but it too has gone dark.
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Those batteries almost never recover when they’re fully dead and charging it with a running car probably has cooked the inside of the batteries, depending on the age maybe get a new one. That year tends to be a little more temperamental with electronics and power supply I’ve found, had one for 7 years, as soon as the battery was low enough for whatever reason it wouldn’t start and charging it almost never worked. The lead plates in there start to corrode at a certain point and they become more and more difficult to charge and lose their charge faster, on top of that, the battery may have heated or evaporated the water content of its acid out, those batteries need to be topped off if they’re old enough, and once they’ve evaporated that much you might as well chuck em

On the other hand if you need a new throttle body/ecu I can give you my old one for 200$, the catch is that it’s from a crashed bike and the matching ignition that I have with the throttle body is broken in half, the red electronic coded part still is intact, but you would probably have to pay piaggio to either mail you a copy of the blue key or to mail you a new red key
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vjmaury wrote:
To jimc 12.84
OK. Now check the volts at the alarm connector (tucked behind the LH knee pad) between the white and black wires. You should have 0V with the ignition switch off, and >12V with the ignition switch on.

Wiring diagram here:
https://manuals.wotmeworry.org.uk/Vespa/GTS250/

I'm assuming you've checked all fuses with your multimeter, not just looked at them.
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Some important update news. I started taking my Vespa apart to begin the search for the starting problem.

The glove box has always been difficult to open. Guys out west suggested I give it a strong tap which I backed up with a small hammer. Low and behold it opened.

just for fun I stuck the key. The display and lights lit up. Hooray.

Sadly would not turn over.

I disconnected the battery to save it.

OK. Any suggestions what this might be? Is it the ignition? Battery not strong enough. It was 12.5 volts

Will more people see this or should repost since started from new square one?

This is a positive step.
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When you first turned on, did you hear the fuel pump 'whirr'?

When you tried to start it:
Did the brake lights come on (you have to have a brake lever pressed to get it to start)?
Did the lights dim?
Did you hear any noise?
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Mr Hornet:

The light dimmed and bright.

Both brakes signaled successfully as well turn signal.

Yes, there did seem to be a whirring noise at the rear of the bike.

The signal and code lights were solid.

The battery registered 12.41.

I disconnected the battery.
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Make sure the kill switch is set to the on position
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When you have to start a vehicle using the connecting cables from one battery to another, always disconnect the positive pole cable; in many cars there is a quick release clamp on the positive pole.
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I made sure the kill switch is off.

Will start testing with voltmeter spark plug etc.

Any suggestions on my scooter to get it going?
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Could it be the battery? It's relatively new this year.
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I repeat, When you first turned on, did you hear the fuel pump 'whirr' for two seconds? I don't want to hear about noises when you try to start it, I want to ensure that the 'injection loads relay' is working when you first switch on.
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It 's a familiar noise when starting up at the rear of the scooter.

Should I record it?
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vjmaury wrote:
It 's a familiar noise when starting up at the rear of the scooter.

Should I record it?
Please confirm this is when you first switch on, NOT when you try to start.
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When I stuck in key, it seemed to start something in back. I've heard perform before. It could be fuel injection.
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:when I stick key yes not when I turn key to right.

As soon as I connect battery with key in it starts this noise
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OK, that would seem to show the injection relay is working - again, assuming you mean when you stuck in the key and then turned the ignition on...

If the lights dim when you try to start, that would indicate that the starter is drawing current, but just won't turn. This is usually because of a failing battery.

The battery should read over 13V immediately after you take if off the charger, and at least 12.6V when allowed to rest for an hour or two. If it gets as low as 12.4V with the bike switched off, then it will certainly struggle to start.
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I will recharge the battery then give it a go to start tomorrow.
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So I recharged overnight. The voltmeter read 13.41 V.

The moment I connected the battery the lights and dash turned on very bright. I did not need the key.

I moved the key into the start position and nothing more happened.

It did make the whirring sound for a few seconds and turned off. I recorded video of this if anyone wants to listen.

Thoughts?
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vjmaury wrote:
So I recharged overnight. The voltmeter read 13.41 V.

The moment I connected the battery the lights and dash turned on very bright. I did not need the key.

I moved the key into the start position and nothing more happened.

It did make the whirring sound for a few seconds and turned off. I recorded video of this if anyone wants to listen.

Thoughts?
AARGH! *When* did the whirring sound happen? When you connected the battery or when you switched the ignition to 'ON'? (There is no 'start' position)
If the lights came on with no key inserted then either the ignition switch has broken internally (quite common), or the steering lock barrel that actuates the ignition switch has the 'L' broken off.

Time to open up the legshield to take a look.
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The moment the lights turned on right after the battery was connected.
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This is all making me wonder if a relay got welded closed-circuit.
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Madison Sully wrote:
This is all making me wonder if a relay got welded closed-circuit.
The only relay that will do anything if it gets welded shut is the starter relay. The starter motor would run regardless of the key switch, as long as the battery was connected. Not uncommon in high mileage bikes.

This has all the hallmarks of a buggered ignition switch. Cheap and pretty easy to replace.
https://scooterpartsco.com/vespa/gts-250/gts-250-keys-and-locks/ignition-switch-for-vespa-gt-gtv-gts-bv-primavera-sprint
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I will order. Give it a go.

I got my voltage regulator from the same company.

Instructions with the part?

I have a Haynes manual.
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I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of the suggested ignition switch.

How should I install it? Any tips or video links?

I have a Haynes Service and Repair Manual if someone can reference that.
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Remove the glovebox/legshield. Unplug old switch, remove wire clip that holds switch in place, replace old with new, replace clip, plug. Button up the glovebox, NOT forgetting the essential rubber band.

There are videos available on removing the glovebox. Look in the Wiki...
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The rubber band is the glove box fix? I saw a video...

Do you have the link?
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