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Do any of you Vape users out there have issues with your voltage regulators not working as advertised? Supposed to be 12V but a friends system (which I installed) and Qascoots systems finally stop climbing in the 14’s. Blew enough bulbs that I added a trail tech regulator to it until we get to the bottom of things.

Trying to find a trend….
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Qascoots photos. Finally held at 14.9 V.
Qascoots photos. Finally held at 14.9 V.
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Lucky
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AC or DC?

I can only speak to the DC, but voltage spikes have never been an issue for me.
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I can only speak for the AC versions.

Local wants me to install the AC performance version on his ET3, but I’d like to look into things a little more.
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Lucky
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*shrug*
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Moderibbit
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
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UTC quote
Ugh, my freaking ET3 still blowing tail bulbs after all these years. Can't find what's wrong. I'll be interested to see the resolution
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xantufrog wrote:
Ugh, my freaking ET3 still blowing tail bulbs after all these years. Can't find what's wrong. I'll be interested to see the resolution
Is the pilot bulb, brake and tail all 6V? Gotta have all 3 working and 6V. Something about how the blue/yellow wires are wired up.
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Molto Verboso
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I can check mine tomorrow. AC system.
Is the scooter running when you check this? I'm assuming duh yeah since it'd need voltage and it ain't getting that if the scooter isn't running.

But ya know figured I'd double check just in case it isn't needed and someone had some super secret way of testing it non running...

I'm way over thinking this probably.
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FridayMatinee wrote:
I can check mine tomorrow. AC system.
Is the scooter running when you check this? I'm assuming duh yeah since it'd need voltage and it ain't getting that if the scooter isn't running.

But ya know figured I'd double check just in case it isn't needed and someone had some super secret way of testing it non running...

I'm way over thinking this probably.
Yep running. See what you get for AC voltage with the throttle pinned. Voltage should climb and then settle.

Might be a good idea too to disconnect your harness from the regulator so you don’t blow out any bulbs/accessories!!!
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I have zero experience with the AC Vape (but I have one on the shelf that’s going into my PK). In my PX, my DC Vape’s voltage is around 13.5 volts with the 22 watt headlight turned on. It will drop down to around 12.6 volts if I’m drawing around 90 watts...which is kinda low for a battery style system.
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Ossessionato
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UTC quote
AC Vape regulator on my friend’s smallie is fine. No spikes, no blown bulbs. On my P I used my Ducati AC/DC, 5 pole regulator (double Gs). My supplier told me he had some issues with the Vape DC regulators going bad which SIP reluctantly replaced…
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UTC quote
MJRally wrote:
Is the pilot bulb, brake and tail all 6V? Gotta have all 3 working and 6V. Something about how the blue/yellow wires are wired up.
Yup, all 6V - but the electricals are original (as far as I know) so I assume there's something going funky somewhere even though I haven't succeeded in tracing it.
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Molto Verboso
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Mine reads 12.1 to 12.3 in the same manner. No bulb issues here.
How about self-drill bolting it to the chassis there?
Just a little hole for a path of least resistance.
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I really appreciate everyone taking the time to measure their setups!! Thank you thank you. Keep them coming. Lets try and find a trend.

I really think the regulators not having a dedicated ground wire built in is a pretty shitty design. Oxidation, paint, non conductive hardware, bad chassis grounds etc. etc. all can wreak havoc. For such a premiere product, why go cheap and not bulletproof?
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MJRally wrote:
I really appreciate everyone taking the time to measure their setups!! Thank you thank you. Keep them coming. Lets try and find a trend.

I really think the regulators not having a dedicated ground wire built in is a pretty shitty design. Oxidation, paint, non conductive hardware, bad chassis grounds etc. etc. all can wreak havoc. For such a premiere product, why go cheap and not bulletproof?
It's designed to be bolted to the chassis with conductive hardware. It says so in the instructions, with an exclamation mark.
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Back in high school, we told that 90% of electrical issues are caused by a bad ground. That seems pretty accurate with what I’ve seen over the years. I do make sure that on all my projects (moto/auto) have excellent grounds.
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Of course! Thats a solid way of doing it. Why rely on exterior mounted terminals though? Why not have it internal and sealed? Look at any generic Chinese voltage regulator and they all have a dedicated built in ground. IMHO, the more grounds the better! Especially on something bouncing down the road.

Does this have anything to do with the Vape regulators not working as designed? Who knows? I'd just like to see if its a problem I need to prepare for or if its just an isolated incident.
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MJRally wrote:
Of course! Thats a solid way of doing it. Why rely on exterior mounted terminals though? Why not have it internal and sealed? Look at any generic Chinese voltage regulator and they all have a dedicated built in ground. IMHO, the more grounds the better! Especially on something bouncing down the road.

Does this have anything to do with the Vape regulators not working as designed? Who knows? I'd just like to see if its a problem I need to prepare for or if its just an isolated incident.
Offhand it looks like you've isolated the regulator from chassis ground with silicone. The engine ground setup you have there is good ground until the spark plug fires.
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Not sure what you mean, Ray. The green wire grounds the regulator to the engine regardless of whether the plug is firing.
⚠️ Last edited by SoCalGuy on UTC; edited 1 time
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I'd also be very leery of where that regulator is currently mounted. There could be around 3"-4" of travel between the frame and engine in that spot. Those (yellow) wires coming out of the regulator will have a short life span before they break from fatigue. It will start with one copper strand, then two...and ect. And most likely the wires will brake right where it comes out of the regulator. Perhaps the AC readings could change the more the wires get damaged?

First off, i'd find a better place to mount that regulator. Then i'd go ground crazy with whatever it took to make a 100% ground connection (both to engine and frame).
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SoCalGuy wrote:
No, the green wire grounds the regulator to the engine.
It's not designed to do that. Regulator grounds to chassis.
Grounding the regulator to engine competes with the spark plug.
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bodgemaster
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And that causes what?
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SoCalGuy wrote:
And that causes what?
Okay, allow me to get into guessing territory here..
The coil is sending thousands of volts to the spark plug. It has a dedicated wire to engine ground to complete that circuit.
The regulator doesn't have a dedicated ground wire because it's designed to be bolted to the frame (not glued).
Worth testing that lack of ground to the chassis.
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MJRally wrote:
Of course! Thats a solid way of doing it. Why rely on exterior mounted terminals though? Why not have it internal and sealed? Look at any generic Chinese voltage regulator and they all have a dedicated built in ground. IMHO, the more grounds the better! Especially on something bouncing down the road.

Does this have anything to do with the Vape regulators not working as designed? Who knows? I'd just like to see if its a problem I need to prepare for or if its just an isolated incident.
Chinese regulators with a dedicated ground wire will work with plastic bikes.
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Ray8 wrote:
Okay, allow me to get into guessing territory here..
The coil is sending thousands of volts to the spark plug. It has a dedicated wire to engine ground to complete that circuit.
The regulator doesn't have a dedicated ground wire because it's designed to be bolted to the frame (not glued).
Worth testing that lack of ground to the chassis.
Well, they did take a wire from the regulator to chassis. i recommend mounting the regulator inside the chassis below the fuel tank; no glueing, no BS. Bolt that thing right to the chassis for a great ground. Bonus is you keep the regulator out of the weather. On top of it all, it cleans up the area adjacent the junction box-just looks like a sloppy mess.
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Ray8 wrote:
Okay, allow me to get into guessing territory here..
The coil is sending thousands of volts to the spark plug. It has a dedicated wire to engine ground to complete that circuit.
The regulator doesn't have a dedicated ground wire because it's designed to be bolted to the frame (not glued).
Worth testing that lack of ground to the chassis.
Interesting theory, except the engine isn’t a “deficated ground” for the ignition. The same black wire that grounds the ignition also grounds to the chassis up in the headset.
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SoCalGuy wrote:
Interesting theory, except the engine isn’t a “deficated ground” for the ignition. The same black wire that grounds the ignition also grounds to the chassis up in the headset.
A ground up in the headset is less than ideal. Reason being is that the ground has to travel though the fork's dirty, greasy ball bearings.
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Here’s what SIP shows as their recommended way of wiring AC Vape kits. I’m 99% certain I installed a dedicated ground wire from the holding bolts to the junction box black wire. Every terminal is also soldered and insulated for bonus points!Razz emoticon The scoot still had voltages too high. I’m trying to find out why.

Let’s not get hung up on that pic. I’m away for work and that pic is all I was able to find online to illustrate my point. Anyone else with Vape kits able to test and chime in what theyre reading?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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MJRally wrote:
Here’s what SIP shows as their recommended way of wiring AC Vape kits. I’m 99% certain I installed a dedicated ground wire from the holding bolts to the junction box black wire. Every terminal is also soldered and insulated for bonus points!Razz emoticon The scoot still had voltages too high. I’m trying to find out why.

Let’s not get hung up on that pic. I’m away for work and that pic is all I was able to find online to illustrate my point. Anyone else with Vape kits able to test and chime in what theyre reading?
I'm looking at buying and installing this too...

You'll be surprised at how much grounding the regulator needs. I've fried about a half dozen batteries because my grounds were shared.

I'd separate it out and make sure the bolt has a good ground to metal... I'd make sure paints not in the way.
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UTC quote
I've just left my old AC Regulator as I ordered the DC regulator thinking I was clever enough to convert the scoot from AC to DC....alas. All seems fine and working well. I do have a BGM high power VR bolted in to switch over to if need be.
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When I did the electrical in the GL, I installed the regulator inside the frame and added a dedicated ground wire from the regulator to the frame. No issues thus far.
⬆️    About 3 years elapsed    ⬇️
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Molto Verboso
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Trying to finally dive into this. Just attempted to check my voltage on my blue Allstate that has no lights or horn working. Just to make sure I'm testing it right (all searching on YouTube gives me DC regulators).

Red positive probe to the output wire of the regulator and black to ground yes? Did that and I'm getting ~ .2v at idle and WOT.

Just wanna make sure I did it correctly before I buy a new regulator.
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FridayMatinee wrote:
Red positive probe to the output wire of the regulator and black to ground yes? Did that and I'm getting ~ .2v at idle and WOT.
Yeah...that ain't right...

What's the input AC voltage off the stator? Is it good, like 14V or more?
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chandlerman wrote:
Yeah...that ain't right...

What's the input AC voltage off the stator? Is it good, like 14V or more?
No clue. I gotta search up how to check that I suppose…
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FridayMatinee wrote:
No clue. I gotta search up how to check that I suppose…
Set your multimeter to AC and check the input wires from the stator to the regulator.
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Hooked
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UTC quote
Have had one in the 65 Allstate for two years with no issues. Used the simplified BGM wiring harness sourced from Mercato. Matt massaged the harness before shipping. Don't remember now quite what he did.
I'm using a custom led tsil/brake light board from a fellow in Britain have never blown a headlight.

.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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exmayor wrote:
Have had one in the 65 Allstate for two years with no issues. Used the simplified BGM wiring harness sourced from Mercato. Matt massaged the harness before shipping. Don't remember now quite what he did.
I'm using a custom led tsil/brake light board from a fellow in Britain have never blown a headlight.

.
I see you have 2 grounds on that regulator! Ive only got one on a smallframe I'm going to fire up tonight. Thats what I've been using on the last few customer scoots, and things have been fine. Maybe my 14V one was a one off? I do keep a spare AC and DC Vape regulator now that this has happened.
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MJRally wrote:
I see you have 2 grounds on that regulator! Ive only got one on a smallframe I'm going to fire up tonight. Thats what I've been using on the last few customer scoots, and things have been fine. Maybe my 14V one was a one off? I do keep a spare AC and DC Vape regulator now that this has happened.
Matt set it up that way, I just followed his drawing that I wish I could find.
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chandlerman wrote:
Set your multimeter to AC and check the input wires from the stator to the regulator.
That'd be the blue wire yeah? Sorry, there's only a blue, which is the wire that goes directly to the regulator and a black wire in the junction box, or am I looking to test the wires that run to the CDI? And does the engine need to be running? I'm assuming it's the blue wire from the stator into the junction box then to the regulator that you're meaning but I'm not 100% on that.
One more thing I'm learning how to do though so there's that at least!
Thanks for walking me through this
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Another success last night! Solid lights and another customer happy. My 14+V instance must have been a one off.
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UTC quote
FridayMatinee wrote:
That'd be the blue wire yeah? Sorry, there's only a blue, which is the wire that goes directly to the regulator and a black wire in the junction box, or am I looking to test the wires that run to the CDI? And does the engine need to be running? I'm assuming it's the blue wire from the stator into the junction box then to the regulator that you're meaning but I'm not 100% on that.
One more thing I'm learning how to do though so there's that at least!
Thanks for walking me through this
Only testing blue and black wires.

With the engine off, turn your meter to resistance (Omega symbol). Touch red probe to blue stator wire and black probe to black wire. You should get somewhere in the neighborhood of .002 ohms resistance give or take.

If that specs out, plug your harness wire to the blue (probably a yellow on your harness),black to black, and then plug in your Vape regulator, start the scooter and let it idle and then turn your meter to AV Voltage (usually V with a wavy line over it). Measure the AC voltage coming out the other yellow wire at the vape regulator. Should be around 12V AC give or take. If not, report back with a lot of pictures!!!
⚠️ Last edited by MJRally on UTC; edited 1 time
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