@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8546
Location: San Diego, CA
 
Johnny Two Tone
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8546
Location: San Diego, CA
UTC quote
if your float bowl chamber screws won't get tight, they are stripped and may allow that bowl to move about, which will cause all sorts of fun with the float...
OP
@duorotte avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
 
Enthusiast
@duorotte avatar
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
UTC quote
The carb jet shows 60
The idle jet says 45-140
Main jet is 160

Are you saying that I should have 55-160 in there? Still trying to understand the different jetting sizes and what they are meant for.
Kowalski wrote:
SI 24.24E. Yours is a Dellorto but new ones are made under license by Spaco in India.

Can't see all of the numbers but original idle jet would have been 55-160. Yours says XX-140, so someone has been in there before you.
@swiss1939 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
P208, Stella VMC Stelvio 187, Stella 150, VNX1T, V9A1T, V9B1T, 02 Sportster XLH1208
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4110
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
@swiss1939 avatar
P208, Stella VMC Stelvio 187, Stella 150, VNX1T, V9A1T, V9B1T, 02 Sportster XLH1208
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4110
Location: Staten Island, NY
UTC quote
That was my initial thought. Float lid screws not tight. If they don't tighten finger snug then you need to replace carb. I had similar symptoms when i was rushing a few months back after a carb rebuild. Tightened lid fixed it.

Btw your found metal is the ground prong from a 3 prong plug. Look for some wires in your garage you stepped on and broke the ground prong off of.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@duorotte avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
 
Enthusiast
@duorotte avatar
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
UTC quote
Ahhh yes that's it's. It's a ground for a three prong. Lol. Well at least it doesn't belong on the bike.

The float lid is the the pic I have with the arrows pointing or the lid to access the little filter ?
swiss1939 wrote:
That was my initial thought. Float lid screws not tight. If they don't tighten finger snug then you need to replace carb. I had similar symptoms when i was rushing a few months back after a carb rebuild. Tightened lid fixed it.

Btw your found metal is the ground prong from a 3 prong plug. Look for some wires in your garage you stepped on and broke the ground prong off of.
@swiss1939 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
P208, Stella VMC Stelvio 187, Stella 150, VNX1T, V9A1T, V9B1T, 02 Sportster XLH1208
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4110
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
@swiss1939 avatar
P208, Stella VMC Stelvio 187, Stella 150, VNX1T, V9A1T, V9B1T, 02 Sportster XLH1208
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4110
Location: Staten Island, NY
UTC quote
duorotte wrote:
Ahhh yes that's it's. It's a ground for a three prong. Lol. Well at least it doesn't belong on the bike.

The float lid is the the pic I have with the arrows pointing or the lid to access the little filter ?
Yes the two screws you are talking about which hold the float bowl lid down. The float needle and float are attached to the lid. Long one near fuel banjo, short one in the other hole.

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/float-chamber-cover-dell-orto-by-drt-si-2424-2828_128295T9
@kowalski avatar
UTC

Addicted
2005 Stellalossi 177 Fe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 519
Location: MA
 
Addicted
@kowalski avatar
2005 Stellalossi 177 Fe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 519
Location: MA
UTC quote
duorotte wrote:
The carb jet shows 60
The idle jet says 45-140
Main jet is 160

Are you saying that I should have 55-160 in there? Still trying to understand the different jetting sizes and what they are meant for.
The individul numbers on the idle jet have significance, but the most important thing is the ratio between the two. The 45-140 is a leaner jet overall than the 55-160. Not sure why anyone would do that so, yes, if your motor (including exhaust) is still stock, go back to the 55-160.

The so-called main stack has three parts. The 160 is just the air correction tube. Below that is the mixer tube. Below that is the main jet. O.E. should be AC160/BE3/MJ116.

The 60 is the choke jet. That is correct for your carb and it is not usually necessary to fool around with those.
OP
@duorotte avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
 
Enthusiast
@duorotte avatar
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
UTC quote
Ok thank you for this info. So would the different jet cause it to stall out like that? I've driven it for 300 miles before this started happening. Also just swapped out the spark plug for a new one went for a ride and had to push it back again. At least I'm getting my cardio in. This time I didn't see anymore fuel spilling. So I'm basically lost on what to do next. So could it be the different jet I have on ?
Kowalski wrote:
The individul numbers on the idle jet have significance, but the most important thing is the ratio between the two. The 45-140 is a leaner jet overall than the 55-160. Not sure why anyone would do that so, yes, if your motor (including exhaust) is still stock, go back to the 55-160.

The so-called main stack has three parts. The 160 is just the air correction tube. Below that is the mixer tube. Below that is the main jet. O.E. should be AC160/BE3/MJ116.

The 60 is the choke jet. That is correct for your carb and it is not usually necessary to fool around with those.
@xantufrog avatar
UTC

Moderibbit
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8892
Location: Atlanta, GA
 
Moderibbit
@xantufrog avatar
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8892
Location: Atlanta, GA
UTC quote
No, that jet will just make it a bit leaner on the idle end. You could always verify/compensate by pulling the choke a bit and seeing if it'll stop dying that way

When it dies, do you check for spark? Is the plug dry or soaking wet?
OP
@duorotte avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
 
Enthusiast
@duorotte avatar
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
UTC quote
Below are pics. The first two pics are of the original that was on the bike. The first shot was today at noon when I cleaned out the carb again and the second was when I replaced it later today with the new one after the test ride. The third pic is a new one i put on. They are all dry. I didn't check for spark on the original one but I did check on the new one, which sparked.
xantufrog wrote:
No, that jet will just make it a bit leaner on the idle end.

When it dies, do you check for spark? Is the plug dry or soaking wet?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@xantufrog avatar
UTC

Moderibbit
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8892
Location: Atlanta, GA
 
Moderibbit
@xantufrog avatar
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8892
Location: Atlanta, GA
UTC quote
Oh I mean right when it dies. Like, pull the scalding hot plug out and see if its wet and you were able to get a spark then on the side of the road.

I ask because I suppose it's possible your CDI is going bad. Intermittent spark failure is a hallmark.

But I think it's a but unclear now when it does and doesn't have the problem and the symptoms (not your fault)
OP
@duorotte avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
 
Enthusiast
@duorotte avatar
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
UTC quote
No I pulled it out after I got back. But probably like 10 minutes after it shut off. If it's wet I'm assuming it's a fuel flooding problem. If it's dry then it's ok? Even that really black color on the second pic?
xantufrog wrote:
Oh I mean right when it dies. Like, pull the scalding hot plug out and see if its wet and you were able to get a spark then on the side of the road.

I ask because I suppose it's possible your CDI is going bad. Intermittent spark failure is a hallmark.

But I think it's a but unclear now when it does and doesn't have the problem and the symptoms (not your fault)
@xantufrog avatar
UTC

Moderibbit
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8892
Location: Atlanta, GA
 
Moderibbit
@xantufrog avatar
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8892
Location: Atlanta, GA
UTC quote
So, if it dies after running it should be dry. But if it's dry when attempting to start it then you're failing to draw gas.

When it dies on you, and you can't start it, I think that's an important time for the trouble shooting. That's when you can get a sense for why it died / won't start.

For example, when my CDI was going bad, it wouldn't restart hot. But push it home for 10 minutes and let its guts chill out and that might be long enough for it to start to behave again. Likewise, when it dies on the side of the road you can see if the poor plug is drenching from that float or if it's not getting wet no matter how much you kick

*edit* but that second plug - that's super dark after just an afternoon... I think it's pretty clear you're getting to much fuel. Probably that float situation like we've been talking about. Or oil... Maybe someone can comment on their experiences with clutchside seal failures, because that's a lot of black for such a short amount of riding. But start simple.
⚠️ Last edited by xantufrog on UTC; edited 3 times
@kowalski avatar
UTC

Addicted
2005 Stellalossi 177 Fe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 519
Location: MA
 
Addicted
@kowalski avatar
2005 Stellalossi 177 Fe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 519
Location: MA
UTC quote
duorotte wrote:
Ok thank you for this info. So would the different jet cause it to stall out like that? I've driven it for 300 miles before this started happening. Also just swapped out the spark plug for a new one went for a ride and had to push it back again. At least I'm getting my cardio in. This time I didn't see anymore fuel spilling. So I'm basically lost on what to do next. So could it be the different jet I have on ?
No. I think your main problem is stripped threads where the screws for the float bowl lid thread into the carb body. I'm not even sure that is aluminum, might just be pot metal, easily stripped if someone went all gorilla on it. You are probably looking at a new carb. Maybe someone here has an extra. Otherwise $95 at scootermercato.
OP
@duorotte avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
 
Enthusiast
@duorotte avatar
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
UTC quote
Thing is I was careful not to over tighten the screws. That sucks if that's the case. Do they still sell the dellorto
Carb? I think I've seen one on eBay and one from a British company. About 130. Believe it's original. If not which one should I get ?
Kowalski wrote:
No. I think your main problem is stripped threads where the screws for the float bowl lid thread into the carb body. I'm not even sure that is aluminum, might just be pot metal, easily stripped if someone went all gorilla on it. You are probably looking at a new carb. Maybe someone here has an extra. Otherwise $95 at scootermercato.
OP
@duorotte avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
 
Enthusiast
@duorotte avatar
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
UTC quote
Also was thinking of that is stripped I can have a machinist drill it out a few mm and fit a larger screw. But not sure if that's even possible
duorotte wrote:
Thing is I was careful not to over tighten the screws. That sucks if that's the case. Do they still sell the dellorto
Carb? I think I've seen one on eBay and one from a British company. About 130. Believe it's original. If not which one should I get ?
@rowdyc avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1346
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
 
Molto Verboso
@rowdyc avatar
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1346
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
UTC quote
You've only added gas/oil and rode it for 300 miles on a recently rebuilt scooter. Simple riding maintenance is needed maybe due to gas. CDI may go bad but you'll find that out when you check the spark.

You had the solution to your problem with the first several replies and the suggestions from the seller of the scooter. Clean carb, makes sure gas is flowing from tank, and check plugs for ignition. Being that you're new (we all have been there) and not use to doing any of those things, researching how to do all of that would have been the next logical step. There is no use trying to clean the carb when knowledge of the carb is limited. You can put the float bowl screws, that have different lengths, in the wrong hole and think they are stripped. Just an example of minor changes to carb that can make things worst. And being that the carb is leaking now it seems you've gone in that direction.

Forget about jet sizes and all that other stuff and learn the right way to clean the carb, make sure gas is flowing, and how to check spark. Step back. do some more research and find videos of cleaning the carb or find illustrations on how to clean the carb and how they work. Youtube and the search window on this forum are remarkable and can help with fuel tank gas flow and checking spark. Ask question on what you've researched to get a better understanding. Knowing the basics will help now and in the future.



Good luck!
@108 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
V range 50s
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2412
 
Ossessionato
@108 avatar
V range 50s
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2412
UTC quote
rowdyc wrote:
Forget about jet sizes and all that other stuff and learn the right way to clean the carb, make sure gas is flowing, and how to check spark. Step back. do some more research and find videos of cleaning the carb or find illustrations on how to clean the carb and how they work. Youtube and the search window on this forum are remarkable and can help with fuel tank gas flow and checking spark. Ask question on what you've researched to get a better understanding. Knowing the basics will help now and in the future.
Super great point made… Understanding the ins and outs will be key… home work will be important… if not, none of it will make much sense

Apologies, huge assumptions on my part that you might be regularly wrenching… and have some of the tools available.

Checking things like ignition and the timing for a consistent spark, won't be on the radar.

I think like Xantufrog mentioned, pulling off a flywheel (not that you should do that… but suggesting to flash it with a timing gun (not everyone will have one) to check, you already have the marks, you don't need to take anything off, but that's a different story) it actually needs about a handful of special tools to do it… not the most difficult, the rabbit hole can go deep and begs the question on how deep you want to go…? to know enough to work on it yourself and get it running? Or basics but with support from a local garage?

Whatever direction you go, you will need to do read ups on it… and carefully play around. Will take some time…
OP
@duorotte avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
 
Enthusiast
@duorotte avatar
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
UTC quote
I agree. That's what I am currently doing. Gathering info and educating myself more with online searches of how things work and what causes symptoms. To date I did clean the carb, checked fuel is flowing and plug has spark. Unfortunately I didn't solve the problem yet. So I will continue to research. Most likely it's something I'm easily missing since this is new to me.

As far as a local mechanic. So far out of luck finding someone around me that is experienced on these scooters. I should of paid attention when I was a kid in Italy on how to fix these. But every mechanic worked on them for really cheap, so it wasn't worth the time to do it yourself. Well that bit me in the ass.

Not sure where everyone is located. But if someone has knowledge of a mechanic in the lower westchester ny area, that would be great.

I'll continue to research. Got to be something I'm not yet understanding / checking.
rowdyc wrote:
You've only added gas/oil and rode it for 300 miles on a recently rebuilt scooter. Simple riding maintenance is needed maybe due to gas. CDI may go bad but you'll find that out when you check the spark.

You had the solution to your problem with the first several replies and the suggestions from the seller of the scooter. Clean carb, makes sure gas is flowing from tank, and check plugs for ignition. Being that you're new (we all have been there) and not use to doing any of those things, researching how to do all of that would have been the next logical step. There is no use trying to clean the carb when knowledge of the carb is limited. You can put the float bowl screws, that have different lengths, in the wrong hole and think they are stripped. Just an example of minor changes to carb that can make things worst. And being that the carb is leaking now it seems you've gone in that direction.

Forget about jet sizes and all that other stuff and learn the right way to clean the carb, make sure gas is flowing, and how to check spark. Step back. do some more research and find videos of cleaning the carb or find illustrations on how to clean the carb and how they work. Youtube and the search window on this forum are remarkable and can help with fuel tank gas flow and checking spark. Ask question on what you've researched to get a better understanding. Knowing the basics will help now and in the future.



Good luck!
@108 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
V range 50s
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2412
 
Ossessionato
@108 avatar
V range 50s
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2412
UTC quote
duorotte wrote:
I agree. That's what I am currently doing. Gathering info and educating myself more with online searches of how things work and what causes symptoms. To date I did clean the carb, checked fuel is flowing and plug has spark. Unfortunately I didn't solve the problem yet. So I will continue to research. Most likely it's something I'm easily missing since this is new to me.

As far as a local mechanic. So far out of luck finding someone around me that is experienced on these scooters. I should of paid attention when I was a kid in Italy on how to fix these. But every mechanic worked on them for really cheap, so it wasn't worth the time to do it yourself. Well that bit me in the ass.

Not sure where everyone is located. But if someone has knowledge of a mechanic in the lower westchester ny area, that would be great.

I'll continue to research. Got to be something I'm not yet understanding / checking.
Oh did you get a video of the bike running without the air filter and air box off? Maybe you can spot a reason of the flooding…? If it is the float bowl that is the problem, mentioned before, is it loose when the engine is running?

Did you end up seeing if the float bowl screws holes were stripped?

YouTube is a good easy way to share, upload and copy a link here…

A "proper" clean would be to remove the carb… (recommend you definitely read up about that) we're all assuming it's been done properly because it's just been rebuilt, but as you can see from your idle jet, it hasn't been set to an original setting.

Also, I'd assume the same for everything from your ignition to electrics… something to note.

I can relate to the mechanics doing it for so cheap you never thought about it. But what ended up happening with me is that they never looked after the bike. I never knew if they did a good job or not…

Then it got to the point where they couldnt do what I wanted… hence needing to learn.
OP
@duorotte avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
 
Enthusiast
@duorotte avatar
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
UTC quote
I tried posting a video from my phone but it didn't work. It was a video of the float in my and and another of the bike running. But not without the air filter and air box off. I'll take it again like you mention and upload to YouTube. Something else I need to learn. Never uploaded videos to YouTube.

Oh did you get a video of the bike running without the air filter and air box off? Maybe you can spot a reason of the flooding…? If it is the float bowl that is the problem, mentioned before, is it loose when the engine is running?

Did you end up seeing if the float bowl screws holes were stripped?

YouTube is a good easy way to share, upload and copy a link here…

A "proper" clean would be to remove the carb… (recommend you definitely read up about that) we're all assuming it's been done properly because it's just been rebuilt, but as you can see from your idle jet, it hasn't been set to an original setting.

Also, I'd assume the same for everything from your ignition to electrics… something to note.

I can relate to the mechanics doing it for so cheap you never thought about it. But what ended up happening with me is that they never looked after the bike. I never knew if they did a good job or not…

Then it got to the point where they couldnt do what I wanted… hence needing to learn.
[/quote]
OP
@duorotte avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
 
Enthusiast
@duorotte avatar
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
UTC quote
So today started great and ended up shitty. With the help of one who restored my bike. We determined that the screws on the float were stripped. So for a fix we tapped a slightly larger screw into it. Looked everything else over. Started and ran great. Drove it around all good. Tonight I was at my sisters about 5 miles away from my home and decided to get home before the rain. Well guess what happened. Mile and a half of me riding it dies out on me. Couldn't get it started. Kicked it a dozen times with the tap off at full open to try and dry up the fuel, nothing. Got a little down hill tried to jump it. Nada. Just a little gurgle but never wanted to turn over. So it seems that I need to replace the carb. Which sucks because it's an original. So now I'm on a quest to find and original. I don't want sparco, so I will hunt for an original dellorto 24-24e. If anyone has any leads on one, please share. Oh yeah and it started pouring for the remainder of my push home and I got a gash on my left calf from the kickstart. Fun fun fun. But lesson learned with over tightening screws. Thanks for all the tips and help guys.
@rowdyc avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1346
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
 
Molto Verboso
@rowdyc avatar
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1346
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
UTC quote
Get this and be done. https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Carb-Parts/132369

BTW, here's the difference between a Dellorto and a Spaco carb
OP
@duorotte avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
 
Enthusiast
@duorotte avatar
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
UTC quote
Are they reliable? I know they took over the license from dellorto but I've heard that they are not the same build quality etc.

rowdyc wrote:
Get this and be done. https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Carb-Parts/132369

BTW, here's the difference between a Dellorto and a Spaco carb
@xantufrog avatar
UTC

Moderibbit
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8892
Location: Atlanta, GA
 
Moderibbit
@xantufrog avatar
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8892
Location: Atlanta, GA
UTC quote
Saw this for sale: https://www.scootnet2.net/index.php?do=showone&id=66

Buyer beware, though - I bought an old dell'orto 24/24 that "needed cleaning", and it turns out it was warped to shit and really a paperweight. So I'd... feel out the situation if you want to go old rather than buying a new Spaco (I have a spaco someone had put on my scoot before me and it's just fine, BTW)
UTC

Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 954
Location: Planet Earth
 
Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 954
Location: Planet Earth
UTC quote
Theres nothing wrong with a Spaco. Whats the big deal? Easily gotten hold of and affordable too. You might as well buy a new CDI at the same time too and save on shipping as in my experience they dont last forever. Its the only thing thats ever failed me in the 11 years ive owned by PX, the cdi. They are cheap too. From the sip website

"Some years ago Dell'Orto made an agreement with Spaco and Piaggio to produce carbs type SI in India. So Spaco produces on license and delivers to Dell'Orto, Dell'Orto guarantees the quality and delivers the SI carbs to Piaggio for first equipment and to all other customers for after market. The carbs are marked > Spaco lic. Dell'Orto <.

Best regards

Stefano Prandini, Dell'Orto Spa, Italy, May 2008


If you buy a new Dell Orto now youre gonna get a spaco anyway. There is no difference whatsoever. If you go down route of buying second hand Del Orto you are gonna have to replace stuff, worn throttle slides, fuel filters, fault floats, dicked about with. With a new spaco you will eliminate any issues.
⚠️ Last edited by ferriswolf on UTC; edited 1 time
@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8546
Location: San Diego, CA
 
Johnny Two Tone
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8546
Location: San Diego, CA
UTC quote
Yeah the spaco seem to do just fine. It's not like the Lambretta world where Jetex is definitely inferior to original Dellorto.
@rowdyc avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1346
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
 
Molto Verboso
@rowdyc avatar
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1346
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
UTC quote
What I don't understand is why he's worrying about a carb when what's needed is a replacement float top.
@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8546
Location: San Diego, CA
 
Johnny Two Tone
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8546
Location: San Diego, CA
UTC quote
if the float chamber screw threads are stripped, he'll need a new body or to repair the one he's got
UTC

Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 954
Location: Planet Earth
 
Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 954
Location: Planet Earth
UTC quote
For the sake of around $100, just get a spaco and enjoy riding. Its a long time winter, shitty weather and just get out on it fixed in the sunshine.
@ray8 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1888
Location: Los Angeles
 
Molto Verboso
@ray8 avatar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1888
Location: Los Angeles
UTC quote
duorotte wrote:
So today started great and ended up shitty. With the help of one who restored my bike. We determined that the screws on the float were stripped. So for a fix we tapped a slightly larger screw into it. Looked everything else over. Started and ran great. Drove it around all good. Tonight I was at my sisters about 5 miles away from my home and decided to get home before the rain. Well guess what happened. Mile and a half of me riding it dies out on me. Couldn't get it started. Kicked it a dozen times with the tap off at full open to try and dry up the fuel, nothing. Got a little down hill tried to jump it. Nada. Just a little gurgle but never wanted to turn over. So it seems that I need to replace the carb. Which sucks because it's an original. So now I'm on a quest to find and original. I don't want sparco, so I will hunt for an original dellorto 24-24e. If anyone has any leads on one, please share. Oh yeah and it started pouring for the remainder of my push home and I got a gash on my left calf from the kickstart. Fun fun fun. But lesson learned with over tightening screws. Thanks for all the tips and help guys.
The vintage scoot walk of shame.
Done it many, many times.
Rain, in a traffic jam and won't kick, etc, etc..
Makes it more delicious if/when it's all sorted out.

If you're skittish about Spaco carbs and have the splash try this one:
https://www.scooter-center.com/en/carburettor-bgm-pro-faster-flow-dellorto/spaco-si24/24e-vespa-px200-type-without-autolube-bgm8571

Read the description.
UTC

Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 954
Location: Planet Earth
 
Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 954
Location: Planet Earth
UTC quote
Ray8 wrote:
The vintage scoot walk of shame.
Done it many, many times.
Rain, in a traffic jam and won't kick, etc, etc..
Makes it more delicious if/when it's all sorted out.

If you're skittish about Spaco carbs and have the splash try this one:
https://www.scooter-center.com/en/carburettor-bgm-pro-faster-flow-dellorto/spaco-si24/24e-vespa-px200-type-without-autolube-bgm8571

Read the description.
That's still a spaco where they have drilled out the inlet flow bore. This is something you can do yourself. I thought though that because he's on a standard setup there's no need for this modification as he's not higher capacity cylinder kitted. Wasnt it the case that some people had more issues setting up by introducing increased intake fuel bore in the float chamber or did i dream this eating some dodgy mushrooms?
@hibbert avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Vespa
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1754
Location: California
 
Molto Verboso
@hibbert avatar
Vespa
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1754
Location: California
UTC quote
if my memory is correct the stock thread for the float bowl cover is 4.5mm I re-tapped mine to 5mm for longer bolts to use with riser plate.
OP
@duorotte avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
 
Enthusiast
@duorotte avatar
1979 P200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 77
Location: Westchester NY
UTC quote
Hey sorry been away and haven't gotten to it. I'm going to be ordering a new sparco and be done with it. Like mentioned above why deal with a problem on an old original. Seems to me that it's just a plug and play. Only thing I think that's different is the mixture screw setting is slightly different. that's no biggie. One thing though, tonight I got back and I figured let me see if she will start up since it's been a week and figured if it was flooded, everything should be dried up by now. FYI the bolts where tapped with 5mm. I kicked with cock off and wot for about 30x. To get any fuel out. Put the fuel on and couldn't get anything out of it. At this point wondering if it could be a bad CDI or green wire from ignition. Got late so tomm I will test the plug for spark. And search on how to test CDI. Any other suggestions ? From electrical point of view the only thing I can see being bad would be the green wire or CDI. Although the bike was restored 300 miles ago. New CDI etc. but things could happen, even on new parts. Not a good couple of weeks with my toys. My car needed two throttle body actuators. Holy shit they got expensive. But I'm better on car engines then the Vespa it seems. Lol
DoubleGood Design banner

Modern Vespa is the premier site for modern Vespa and Piaggio scooters. Vespa GTS300, GTS250, GTV, GT200, LX150, LXS, ET4, ET2, MP3, Fuoco, Elettrica and more.

Buy Me A Coffee
 

Shop on Amazon with Modern Vespa

Modern Vespa is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com


All Content Copyright 2005-2024 by Modern Vespa.
All Rights Reserved.


[ Time: 0.0314s ][ Queries: 4 (0.0088s) ][ live ][ 313 ][ ThingOne ]