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I'm pretty sure I've gotten all the screws out. But I've pried and pried at the pry point and the cover just won't budge. So just because I'm doubting myself. I don't need to remove the screws that are pointed out in this video do I?

Is there some way to use a chisel or something. PB Blaster?

Any tips on how I can get this damn thing to come off?
thanks!
https://youtu.be/j6dbWT_6q7c
I will make it work!
I will make it work!
⚠️ Last edited by KimPossible on UTC; edited 1 time
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UTC quote
First one no (holds the mudguard). Botton one and green arrow yes…
Top one no…
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the one with the green arrow that holds that bracket on is likely your culprit. If that one on the bottom is a bolt, remove it as well but I think that's just a casting mark and I don't have one in front of me to check it.

I'd remove the bracket and unclip the wiring harness up top, it'll make for easier reassembly.

pull the fender and swing arm just to get junk out of your way.

then you can get a long punch or extension in there from the back side on the tabs to pop it off. give the housing a few bumps with a dead blow or soft face mallet all around, then a few sharp wraps with a metal hammer and an extension should get you there.

don't for get to clean everything really well. on reassembly and remember to give the rubber wire grommet a little dab of sealer.

you did remember to drain the oil, right?

good luck!
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greasy125 wrote:
you did remember to drain the oil, right?

good luck!
Yup, remembered to drain the oil. So took out the bottom and the green arrow. It budges now. Left side seems free but not right side. I'm roing to remove the stuff up top too. Then wail on the tabs from the other side.

Thanks!
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Flywheel cover is off!!!!!

I was about to dance around the house holding it over my head when I noticed my spouse had her phone pointed at me. Settled for a ultra loud WHOOO-HOOOO
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UTC quote
I think I see the problem. What could make the impeller fins shear off like that. Is there something else I need to fix before I button this all back up?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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What does the inside part (that the impeller fits into) look like?

My best guess would be something floating around in the coolant, but... that still seems unusual.
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Looks like the shaft bearing went bye bye and walked the impeller into the plastic cover.

Plastic on plastic makes it look all melty.
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How’s the pump’s bearings?? Any play?? I’ve never seen an impeller with broken fins. The usual failure is the nut “separating” from the plastic and the impeller not rotating with the axle…
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Here's what the snail looks like. Unless there's supposed to be something else in there it looks fine to me.
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KimPossible wrote:
Here's what the snail looks like. Unless there's supposed to be something else in there it looks fine to me.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I got nothin'. Greasy's explanation sounds like the most plausible, but I admit I'm a little unclear on what, exactly, the fins were grinding into.
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I agree with the diagnosis. I've had issues with the shaft not making a good interference fit with the end. Take a picture of the inside of the cover. The oil seal may be mangled. Make sure that the spring is intact and you've accounted for all the missing bits if there are any.

Clean out the snail cover and put it all back together!
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GotMojo wrote:
I agree with the diagnosis. I've had issues with the shaft not making a good interference fit with the end. Take a picture of the inside of the cover. The oil seal may be mangled. Make sure that the spring is intact and you've accounted for all the missing bits if there are any.

Clean out the snail cover and put it all back together!
F that noise. buy a new water pump housing, gasket and impeller cover. install and roll. why screw around to save 40 bux?
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KimPossible wrote:
Here's what the snail looks like. Unless there's supposed to be something else in there it looks fine to me.
yeah, I meant the portion that covers the pump impeller.

anyway, yes. there's supposed to be something there. a ceramic bearing and an oil seal.

ceramic bearing failed, shaft went all cattywompus, impeller meets impeller cover and you have debris soup in your cooling system. which when made by Italians is wildly expensive in a restaurant or hugely time consuming if making it at home

new cover, new impeller cover, gaskets, spring, all the things and stuffs in addition to a pain staking tedious coolant flush.

delightful!
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SaFiS wrote:
How's the pump's bearings?? Any play?? I've never seen an impeller with broken fins. The usual failure is the nut "separating" from the plastic and the impeller not rotating with the axle…
404 bearing not found.
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A big mess ...
However, a few before the wings broke and during, there must have been a clatter of entrails rattling like a spanish rattle! :?
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I've got the entire new pump installed, but haven't had a chance to leak test it yet.

I didn't test the spring. When I tested turning the impeller it didn't turn but felt springy. Do I need to take the cover back off and do a specific test on the spring?

When I do a leak test, can I just use water first? Or, do I need to refill the oil, fill/debubble with coolant, and let it run to test it?

Can I run the scooter with the engine dropped? Or just get over it and put everything back together before testing?

Thanks everybody for all your help!
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greasy125 wrote:
F that noise. buy a new water pump housing, gasket and impeller cover. install and roll. why screw around to save 40 bux?
She did buy a new assembly. You're not following along.

She should check to see if the spring came off of the oil seal. It gets mangled and releases little metal bits.
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KimPossible wrote:
I need to take the cover back off and do a specific test on the spring?
Springy feel is the test. As long as you're confident that you got the gasket and snail o-ring on without pinching/folding, fill it up with fluids and fire it up. As long as the frame is secure and nothing is going to rattle off you can run it for a bit with the engine dropped. You should be able to feel coolant moving through the hoses with your hand. Proof will be obvious when you put it all back together and bleed the system.

IF there is a leak it's probably not going to be a gusher. Just keep an eye out for drips. Maybe put a dry paper towel/cardboard underneath the bike overnight.
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Good news - no leaks.

Next question:
What am I doing wrong? The left rear shock no longer fits between the bracket. (Already reattached the right rear shock)
Thanks!
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KimPossible wrote:
Good news - no leaks.

Next question:
What am I doing wrong? The left rear shock no longer fits between the bracket. (Already reattached the right rear shock)
Thanks!
Check that the spacers are fully seated and not hung up.

Good work Kim!
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3 things to look for:

1. Make sure you put the wheel spacers in the correct order. If you didn't, the swingarm will be misaligned.

2. Check both sides of the shock. I don't recall how the bushings are set up on the GTS but it may be that it will only go in one way. Spin em 180 if that's the case.

3. You may need to just twerk the back end up and down a bit as you're trying to slide it in. The rear wheel, not your butt! The shock is going to be at a bit of an angle relative to the body and might just need a slight bit of persuasion. A small dab of grease may help.
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One more:

4. The shocks are offset and you have to make sure that you put them back the same way. I *think* this is the correct orientation. (This is just a random pic from the net)
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GotMojo wrote:
One more:

4. The shocks are offset and you have to make sure that you put them back the same way. I *think* this is the correct orientation. (This is just a random pic from the net)
I don't think so. Of the three I have right here all three are entirely different. Location, orientation of "offset" and side to side.

But I'd love to see some kind of documentation to back that up.
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greasy125 wrote:
But I'd love to see some kind of documentation to back that up.
The picture showing the offset isn't enough?

edit:

...and the manual shows them in the opposite orientation, which makes more sense to me as it allows for greater clearance for the tire.
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I have THREE here, one on the rack and two lined up on the floor ready to roll next.

Again, ALL three show different orientations of this "offset"

A picture from the FSM is insufficient evidence.

Btw, you know you can just, like, grab the shock body and rotate it, right? Presto changeo! Offset to the other side!

Clearance for the tire? The shocks are 1.5 INCHES from the tire. And the tire would contact the inner fender well before then.

Show me the documentation. Are there different part numbers for rear shocks left and right?

The FSM clearly state that the rear shocks have an orientation?

Do aftermarket companies sell them as left hand and right hand?

Until you can prove otherwise you're just spreading FUD.

Prove it or keep it quiet.
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All righty. Everything reattached, air bled out of the coolant, and no bits left over. The proof will be tomorrow morning"s commute. But I've got a good feeling about this now.
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greasy125 wrote:
Prove it or keep it quiet.
My, you're fun.

If the offset was not necessary, it would not have been engineered in. Period.

No manufacturer would spend the extra money if the spec didn't call for it. Just because you don't understand this doesn't make it not true. Even the aftermarket stuff follows the pattern.

I can't tell you which is the correct way. I said so as much in my post. I even went as far as showing you photos of BOTH orientations installed, essentially agreeing that it's at the very least confusing to the end user.

Back on topic --

Glad you got it bolted on Kim. What was the hangup?
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GotMojo wrote:
My, you're fun.

If the offset was not necessary, it would not have been engineered in. Period.

No manufacturer would spend the extra money if the spec didn't call for it. Just because you don't understand this doesn't make it not true. Even the aftermarket stuff follows the pattern.

I can't tell you which is the correct way. I said so as much in my post. I even went as far as showing you photos of BOTH orientations installed, essentially agreeing that it's at the very least confusing to the end user.
ohhh... you're not gonna slide out of this that easily...

actually, I am fun.

and the only thing I love more than stamp collecting is arguing with know nothings on scooter forums that refuse to show their work.

just because YOU don't understand how it works doesn't mean there's a higher meaning.

seriously, how many rear shocks on GTS have you replaced? I'll wait.

again, prove it to me.
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Chill, folks. Keep it polite.
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Rode it to work from Bowie to DC. Temperature guage stayed right around halfway even in stop and go traffic, no cooked coolant smell, no engine or oil light, and nothing fell off!
Woot!

Really, thanks everybody for your help. I hope I don't make a pest of myself but in prep for SCBR 2023 I'm going to start doing all my own maintenance. I'm sure to have more questions going forward.
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UTC quote
KimPossible wrote:
and nothing fell off!
This is the best part.
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UTC
This post was not quite
What we were hoping to see
Try again, perhaps?
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This post was not quite
What we were hoping to see
Try again, perhaps?
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So help me god I will eject you both.
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