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@xantufrog avatar
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1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
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@xantufrog avatar
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
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UTC quote
Lol, it's been a while - forgot what a pita these are to dial in. I was riding yesterday and snapped one of the selector cables on my et3. It had been shifting like a dream - now I spent literally the whole afternoon in 90 degree heat trying to get it to behave the same

I got it so it shifts fine, but neutral is basically non-existent (well, ok, I can find it, but it feels like a razor's edge and not a good use of my time in traffic).

Trying to figure out if this is a symptom of too much slack or not enough. My p2 likes it loosy, but I think that's the wrong way to go with this bastard
⚠️ Last edited by xantufrog on UTC; edited 1 time
@scootermarc69 avatar
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I find it's worth throwing the S.F. up on a block of wood(milk crate will do), removing the rear wheel and getting at it that way. You can do clutch and gear cables much easier that way. And of course a fourth hand tool with 4"section of outer between it and the pinch bolt.
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@xantufrog avatar
UTC

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1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
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@xantufrog avatar
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
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UTC quote
That idea about the extra outer is genius... I can't believe that never occurred to me...

All these years of "you know, these 4th hand tools aren't that great..." mishandled

Any advice on going for more tension or less?
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Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
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Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
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xantufrog wrote:
That idea about the extra outer is genius... I can't believe that never occurred to me...
Man, no kidding, that is a brilliant idea. It brings it all out of the way from the selector. I'm doing that for clutch cable changes as well which brings the whole operation out and away from the clutch arm and engine case. Duhhh. I'll feel truly enlightened and stupid all at the same time. Thank you scootermarc69.
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xantufrog wrote:
Any advice on going for more tension or less?
I mean you want a little give but not slack, same as with the L.F.
And of course with the clutch, the plunger limits the side drift off the Xmas tree/clutch assembly, but should not be in tension against the pressure plate. so with my finger I push the lever on the clutch cover. It should move a skosh before touching the pressure plate.
⚠️ Last edited by scootermarc69 on UTC; edited 2 times
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nomadinsiam wrote:
I'll feel truly enlightened and stupid all at the same time. Thank you scootermarc69.
Ha. I didn't come up with it myself, but happy to pass the tip along.
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Molto Verboso
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
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Molto Verboso
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
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UTC quote
scootermarc69 wrote:
Ha. I didn't come up with it myself, but happy to pass the tip along.
same for largeframes?
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FridayMatinee wrote:
same for largeframes?
yup
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@xantufrog avatar
UTC

Moderibbit
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8892
Location: Atlanta, GA
 
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@xantufrog avatar
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8892
Location: Atlanta, GA
UTC quote
scootermarc69 wrote:
Had at it today with the 4th hand tool and extra outer cable as a spacer, and was able to get it shifting beautifully real fast. Headache-saving tip there.

I had some spare smallframe choke cables around and grabbed one of those for the purpose - snipped out the inner and I had a tailor-made cable spacer
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