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Molto Verboso
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sdjohn wrote:
i think i see it
Yup. Good eye.
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Molto Verboso
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Got them thar files
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Molto Verboso
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And that woodruff just found out who number 2 works for.
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Onward! And now you have some nice files
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Ok here's another question… I probably should have asked this sooner, but I didn't want to appear dumb.

The new crank… it doesn't spin freely. Like there's a bit of resistance to rotating it, and when I do, it makes a sort of squeaking sound, like rubber rubbing against metal. I was thinking maybe it's just the crank seating on the new seal, but I don't know. I was expecting it to spin more like a brand new skateboard wheel, but again I've no idea what brand new crank/seals/bearings ought feel like.

It was like this when I picked it up from the shop, so I assumed it was normal; this isn't a product of my installation of the bearing race.

Just thought maybe I'd make sure i don't have a problem on my hands before I go any further…
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It was the same when I put my motor back together during my rebuild. It's normal - just drag from the seals. The bang bang will overcome it no problem.
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Molto Verboso
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Cool thanx, AJ! That's a relief!
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Did you put some grease on those new seals? That's helpful do they don't die before they get lubed. Is it resisting evenly or only on one part of the rotation? One spot = bad. You have the cases mated already? If not, it won't run true.
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Molto Verboso
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sdjohn wrote:
Did you put some grease on those new seals? That's helpful do they don't die before they get lubed. Is it resisting evenly or only on one part of the rotation? One spot = bad. You have the cases mated already? If not, it won't run true.
Yeah cases are mated. It's resisting evenly, through the entire rotation and I didn't perceive any change in that regard after installing the bearing race.

As to greasing the seals… when I took the cases in to the shop to get the bearing race out, I figured I might as well have them install the seals and bearings, so I'm assuming the seal was greased before the crank was installed. They work on 4t bikes too nowadays, but they originally built their entire business on 2t Italian scooters and mopeds, so I generally tend to trust them.

Anyhow, my engine is starting to look like an engine rather than parts, which is awesome. I can actually press on the kickstart lever, and the crank turns! So that's progress.

Next, I'm gonna see about getting the stator mounted, and figure out how to get the piston off the old crank.
My shop-hand says it's time to knock off work for the night.
My shop-hand says it's time to knock off work for the night.
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macgerk77 wrote:
Second gear's had better days. What on earth would cause that?! The teeth all look pretty clean, but goddamn.
My best guess is a busted off piece of cruciform or a gear tooth that was stuck between the gears and someone rode it that way, maybe to limp it home.

That motor has seen some things, for sure.
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Molto Verboso
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Well… I finally got my wrist pin tool.
in the morning I'm going to be attaching the piston to the con rod, torquing down the jug, pulling my new set of cables, and putting the engine back in the bike.

Something occurred to me however…

I've deduced that the stator included in my conversion kit is an LML stator.

Would I have an easier time of sorting out the electrics if I were to order an LML harness and just wire the bike like a Stella rather than use the Rally harness I ordered from SIP?
This is the harness I have
This is the harness I have
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Lucky
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The Stella wiring harness is an abomination before Flying Spaghetti Monster and electrical engineering. I'd stay far away from it.

You're going to wind up doing some crimping and matching in any case, but nothing that hasn't been done plenty of times before.

Unless you have a serious need to replace the harness (like...it's completely dead or you're doing a bare metal rebuild), I'd just match up what you have to the new stator.

Are you on 6V or 12V?

Can you give us some pictures of what you have wiring-wise on both the stator and the harness? And is it the FemsaTronic or Ducati?

BTW, better wiring diagrams can be found on ScooterHelp
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Are you adding bar end indicators? A battery? Or just keeping it 12V headlight, brakes, running light? If the latter, I'd use the harness with just a few modifications.
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Molto Verboso
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chandlerman wrote:
Unless you have a serious need to replace the harness (like...it's completely dead or you're doing a bare metal rebuild), I'd just match up what you have to the new stator.

OG harness has been consigned to that great big scooter shop in the sky. RIP harness… you're already sorely missed…

I'm in the process of converting to 12v

Deleting indicators, keeping battery.

This is the loom I have:

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/search/Wiring%20loom

If I recall… I had hoped this was close to stock US market loom. I was wrong.
New stator
New stator
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Molto Verboso
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Stator pigtail
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Molto Verboso
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Colors from harness
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that looks like a px ac stator, for non-battery bikes. is it?
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Correct, stator is typical AC, needs a 3 pole regulator for non battery setup...

macgerk77: Which exactly is your loom, cause it looks like a 6V?? The link you posted is wrong, brings all looms...
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Molto Verboso
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SaFiS wrote:
Correct, stator is typical AC, needs a 3 pole regulator for non battery setup...

macgerk77: Which exactly is your loom, cause it looks like a 6V?? The link you posted is wrong, brings all looms...
Sorry this is the one

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/wiring-loom_87001310
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macgerk77 wrote:
OG harness has been consigned to that great big scooter shop in the sky. RIP harness… you're already sorely missed…

I'm in the process of converting to 12v

Deleting indicators, keeping battery.

This is the loom I have:

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/search/Wiring%20loom

If I recall… I had hoped this was close to stock US market loom. I was wrong.
That's the same stator that comes in the 2005 US market electric start (i.e. 12v battery) PX150 scooters.
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whodatschrome
Ok, cool thx for the heads up.

Sigh… didn't get nearly as far as I'd hoped today. Working one of my days off kinda boned me.



Got all the new cables ran, it wasn't nearly the hassle it was last time I did it.

Got the piston and the jug on the engine. Wrist pin was a bit tricky. Freezing it helped. But I would appear to now have compression, so that's great.

Unfortunately I'm thinking I'm going to be needing a new piston sooner rather than later.
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Looks like you will get more practice with that wrist pin
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That piston isn't *that* bad. Just worn. So long as the rings are good and you have adequate compression, it will probably carry you until you're ready to look at new top end options. With those 2mm rings, you're not going to be wringing it out too hard in any case.
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I wouldn't run that piston.

what's the other side look like (exhaust side)?

Also, picture of the inside, bottom side of the crown.
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sdjohn wrote:
Looks like you will get more practice with that wrist pin
Literally laughed out loud. Nice one mate ROFL emoticon
oopsclunkthud wrote:
I wouldn't run that piston.

what's the other side look like (exhaust side)?

Also, picture of the inside, bottom side of the crown.
My thought was to just use this piston to get the bike set up and running, then get a new one later. The engine ran strong before teardown. I only have one other pic of the piston. I can pull the jug and take more next week when I have time off.

It's interesting that there's no corresponding smearing in the cylinder, it's quite clean.
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maybe someone honed the cylinder but cheaped out on a piston replacement

looking at what you've got there I'd go new piston and a hone on the bore with a ball hone.

of course we didn't see the bore, but you said it was clean.
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sdjohn wrote:
maybe someone honed the cylinder but cheaped out on a piston replacement

looking at what you've got there I'd go new piston and a hone on the bore with a ball hone.

of course we didn't see the bore, but you said it was clean.
I'm inclined to gripe at what a colossal pain in the ass this is turning out to be, but really this is exactly what I signed up for.
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Well… I've gotten the carb rebuilt, and I've managed to work out timing marks on the case. That was mildly annoying, but it turned out I was just overthinking, as is often the case.
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Another minor triumph lol
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When in doubt, pull the spark plug and stick a screwdriver in the cylinder. Spin the flywheel so that the screwdriver pokes out the furthest. If your marks are close to it, its a good sign!
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I just did the "rotate clockwise til stop, mark. Rotate counterclockwise til stop, mark. Measure difference w/ degree wheel. Divide by two, mark tdc."

The overthinking it came from not realizing the piston stop WASN'T at the top of the piston's travel. And I know I got it right, BC looking through the spark plug hole at my mark, rotating the flywheel in either direction causes the piston to recede.
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Realistically, I should be good to put the motor back in the bike… but I'm looking at this bullshit harness I have…
And I've got no idea wtf.

Harness diagram shows 2 poles at the key switch. I have 4. And no idea which colors to match to which at the junction box. I'm thinking I need a different harness, or make my own?
Or throw this bike in the ocean?
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macgerk77 wrote:
Realistically, I should be good to put the motor back in the bike… but I'm looking at this bullshit harness I have…
And I've got no idea wtf.

Harness diagram shows 2 poles at the key switch. I have 4. And no idea which colors to match to which at the junction box. I'm thinking I need a different harness, or make my own?
Or throw this bike in the ocean?
Dont worry about the harness. It'll be easy to modify. You've probably got ignition kill wire, ground, lighting in, lighting out.
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macgerk77 wrote:
Well… I've gotten the carb rebuilt, and I've managed to work out timing marks on the case. That was mildly annoying, but it turned out I was just overthinking, as is often the case.
I seem to always get confused with setting the timing marks...simply because it's so dang easy that my brain locks up from over-understanding how it works. I think if it were more difficult it would be easier for me. It sounds strange but it's true. How hard can it be to find TDC, then make a mark on both the case and the flywheel, then make a second mark on the case that's somewhere between 18 and 23 degrees away from the TDC mark?
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macgerk77 wrote:
Realistically, I should be good to put the motor back in the bike… but I'm looking at this bullshit harness I have…
And I've got no idea wtf.

Harness diagram shows 2 poles at the key switch. I have 4. And no idea which colors to match to which at the junction box. I'm thinking I need a different harness, or make my own?
Or throw this bike in the ocean?
The Pacific ocean is located roughly 90 minutes away from you...then there's another 90 minute drive back home. You're probably better off dealing with the harness for another 3 hours.
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Like I said in my thread... I would have been better off building my own harness. I can't remember the details of your setup, but you've got a US bike with a flywheel that isn't original to it, and you bought the SIP harness which doesn't match the US at least in terms of US having indicators and a different regulator/rectifier. That different regulator is one of the main things that I forgot about until I started trying to map out how the harness was going to hook up. Let me re-read what you have and see what I can suggest in terms of a path forward. I think you're going to need to start with knowing how the original harness worked, and then make something equivalent but modified from that. In my case, if nothing else, the SIP harness had different wire colors from the US harness, even between the same points, so it immediately meant that the US wiring diagram I had always referred to in the past was out the window. I didn't like that, because my electrics were all stock US, so I wanted the harness to actually match that. Your situation is a little different because of the non-stock flywheel.
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whodatschrome wrote:
The Pacific ocean is located roughly 90 minutes away from you...then there's another 90 minute drive back home. You're probably better off dealing with the harness for another 3 hours.
Well, probably more like 5 hours, round trip… If I was going to deep six this bike, I'd head out the 26 through your neck of the woods headed for Astoria. The mouth of the Columbia being The Graveyard of the Pacific, and all. But then again… Goonies never say "die", so I suppose I'd be at an impasse there.
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autojack wrote:
you've got a US bike with a flywheel that isn't original to it, and you bought the SIP harness which doesn't match the US
Tell me about it Facepalm emoticon

Trying to figure out how to marry 2 unknown quantities.

I think the harness is German market?

If I recall, it was the only one w/ indicators, and I'd hoped it'd be the same as US market.
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OK, so let me get this straight: You have a 1974 US Rally 200, a PX150 12v stator (so you are converting to 12v) for bikes with electric start, you are getting rid of the indicators, but keeping the battery. Is that right?

Questions:

Are you planning to hook up electric start?
No indicators at all? Is that legal?
What regulator/rectifier are you using?
What battery are you planning to use? Is there a 12v that will fit in the Rally battery box?
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autojack wrote:
Questions:

1) Are you planning to hook up electric start?

2) No indicators at all? Is that legal?

3) What regulator/rectifier are you using?

4) What battery are you planning to use? Is there a 12v that will fit in the Rally battery box?
Answers:

1) No. Is that even possible?!

2) None whatsoever. Absolutely illegal.

My old '74, I just told cops that law reads, "all bikes MANUFACTURED after 1973 need signals." And that my bike was manufactured in 1973 to be sold as 1974's model year. Which was of course, a lie, but an effective one.
⚠️ Last edited by macgerk77 on UTC; edited 1 time
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