@subetherbass avatar
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1997 Italjet Formula 125, 2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
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@subetherbass avatar
1997 Italjet Formula 125, 2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
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UTC quote
Bobo wrote:
Now we're talking I have ridden a mate's Super that has the 10" rims on 8" hubs. Handling was pretty shit.
I used then riding from Melbourne to Queensland for the Mille, didn't notice much of an issue after the first day of 11
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'70 Super 150, Medley 150S, '23 Ducati Monster SP
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UTC quote
So I have the scoot. Engine No. is: VBC1M 123959. Frame No: no letters *124643*. Both check out as 1970 Super. Has 8" wheels, 125mm headlight, shell shaped speedo, 4 speed so if I'm not wrong it's a Super with VBB cowls and mudguard. Has quite a bit of body filler cracking off and rust bubbling up on the floor tunnel. Got to say it's all a bit intimidating now I have it and I'm in above my head but I guess that's the best way to learn - bite off more than you can chew and chew like crazy. Will get a price for painting but I think I'm just going to get it back together and running and enjoy it for what it is. I'd like to do a 10" wheel and electronic ignition and 12V conversion as well as getting the correct panels but with the paint it'll be too expensive so I think it'll be a project for the future. Would ultimately like a front disc and cylinder kit, SIP speedo etc. etc. I'm going to do a shopping wishlist on SIP's site and see what I'd be up for just for fun.
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UTC quote
It looks like there is a patch welded at the top of the tunnel. Funny, my VBB has a square opening cut in it at the same spot, then folded back over. Could it be for wiring or cable access?
@subetherbass avatar
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1997 Italjet Formula 125, 2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
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@subetherbass avatar
1997 Italjet Formula 125, 2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
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UTC quote
orwell84 wrote:
It looks like there is a patch welded at the top of the tunnel. Funny, my VBB has a square opening cut in it at the same spot, then folded back over. Could it be for wiring or cable access?
Theyseem to do that quite a bit, yes for cables/wiring... that's why you pull-thru new loom/cables/extra wires when you remove the original (tape new to old)

I'd like to do a 10" wheel
Ohh ... Bobo,
please KEEP IT 8"!
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UTC quote
SubEtherBASS wrote:
I'd like to do a 10" wheel
Ohh ... Bobo,
please KEEP IT 8"!
Why not, apart from keeping it original? Surely 10" is better? And the scale of 8" looks all wrong to me.
UTC

Molto Verboso
One or two fun scoots....nothing too precious
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Molto Verboso
One or two fun scoots....nothing too precious
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UTC quote
Bobo wrote:
Why not, apart from keeping it original? Surely 10" is better? And the scale of 8" looks all wrong to me.
I agree. They're just wheels and the proportions look much better IMHO. Just keep the 8" bits in a box for any future requirement
@subetherbass avatar
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UTC quote
Bobo wrote:
Why not, apart from keeping it original? Surely 10" is better? And the scale of 8" looks all wrong to me.
8" is far more agile... ohh.... and FUN (as long as you have good adjustable suspension & sticky tyres)!
Consider them to be the "dumped on its ass" sports handling & looks upgrade package
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UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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bodgemaster
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UTC quote
Listen to SubE. Unless you plan to install a disc brake, keep it on 8's. So much more fun and better handling. That thing will come alive with a kit, some quality shocks and Heidenau K75's. The close ratio gearing on a Super combined with 8" wheels and a little more hp makes for a quick, 60+ mph cruiser.
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'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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UTC quote
swa45 wrote:
No need for those dreadful 8-10 conversion rims. The Super fork will take the proper 10" dustcover, brake shoes and hub from a Sprint or Rally. It is a dead easy job. Then you can use decent rims, either OEM style or SIP/BGM/Pinasco/FA tubeless
I'm right in the middle of this controversy, I think BOTH sizes have their pros and cons. I have BOTH. A Super on 10s, that was simple to do and easily reversible. Bike had a fresh LML 10" motor in it, I'm lazy and the conversion was cake as mentioned above w/ lots of advantages for me re rims and good tires I have. But as often mentioned on the plus side, my 8" AllState w/ hopped up motor is too much fun to speed around and play on. Plus you can get a nice decal if you hit 60 on 8s or just ignored for 60 on 10s, so maybe a clue there.

I think it might come down to how you'd like to ride and what you want to spend. For a local neighborhood bike, I love 8s and smallies, for long rides I want a large frame on 10s and tubeless tires if I wanna go fast - just 'feels' better and I can relax a bit more. Personal preference should play here too, what do YOU like? Is original a big deal for you?

As far as looks, 1. Both look great, 2. Suit yourself and 3. Who REALLY cares?
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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The Dude
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UTC quote
My unsolicited Vote: keep it on 8", for all the reasons listed above. I always thought that the Super on 8" wheels was one of the cool unique features of that model. I think the proportions are just about right for 8", even though it is slightly different than its larger 10" cousins. There are lots of 10" out there if ya want one. Slap a kit on, wake it up and roll on 8". Disk brake upgrade would be a valid reason to convert to 10", but I think you'd be pretty happy on the 8" with a bit o motor work. Good tires, good shock & spring, wake that engine up are roll! Good luck
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UTC quote
The scoot came with brand new 8" rims and tyres so I'll definitely put them on and give them a go. Maybe I'll like them but without trying to offend the 8" lovers I reckon they look a bit clownish .
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UTC quote
Perfect!

If you like it for just putt putting around locally for fun and you have other long legged bikes for longer runs, you are done and your brakes should be fine.

If you can go 50mph and are still happy, you are done and you get that sticker too! Clap emoticon

You can always change your mind down the road if you want.
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Lucky
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UTC quote
Gotta go 60 for the sticker. Just sayin'...
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UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
Gotta go 60 for the sticker. Just sayin'...
Are there any steep downhill mountains near Sydney, Australia?
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UTC quote
whodatschrome wrote:
Are there any steep downhill mountains near Sydney, Australia?
I'm sure I could find one. I'll have to get an adult diaper to do 60 on 8"
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UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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UTC quote
Check out this thread Bob.

How to cheat and get a barn find.

PP has done an awesome job on his VBB. Gets fairly technical but it's a good looking scooter.
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UTC quote
Thanks Michael. I'll check it out. Swung past a local sand blaster and also a painter today. Blaster said he's done a few before and didn't want to do the cowls as they get damaged by blasting which is fine because if I do paint I'll buy the correct cowls and mudguard. It'll be a couple of grand all up for new panels, blasting and painting. If I can get it past the wife I'll get it done.
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UTC quote
Trying to get the motor cleaned up a bit before I open it up to see what's going on with the kickstarter. This thing is filthy. I let my mate know what I thought of his maintenance regime He really lost interest in it in the end and moved on to other things. I've just been scraping away gunk then spraying degreaser and wiping. Anyone have any other handy tips?
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UTC quote
Do you have a dishwasher and a wife who likes to take lengthy shopping trips when you give a little extra dosh?
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Johnny Two Tone
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UTC quote
Wd40 and a plastic bristle brush, along with a tooth brush. Works wonders!
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UTC quote
V oodoo wrote:
Do you have a dishwasher and a wife who likes to take lengthy shopping trips when you give a little extra dosh?
Yeah nah Laughing emoticon
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Lucky
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UTC quote
Imma just leave this right here... Razz emoticon
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UTC quote
I like a small curved paring knife and this for first pass getting that tuff dried oilmud layer off if it's been way too long since cleaned or never


(Screenshot of qcscoot at work. Check out his thread, he's giving lessons now!)
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@subetherbass avatar
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@subetherbass avatar
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UTC quote
ETHER... LOTS O ETHER (or Start-Ya-Bastard) works wonders for cleaning age old grime... and if it all gets too hard, simply sniff deeply & all your troubles will drift away.
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Lucky
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UTC quote
Once I get past the putty knife stage, I like brake parts cleaner, especially for getting the grease out of corners and narrow spots. Put the little straw on the can and it's like a tiny, toxic pressure washer.
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'70 Super 150, Medley 150S, '23 Ducati Monster SP
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UTC quote
Coke can?
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Lucky
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Lucky
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UTC quote
I cut shims out of Red Bull cans and install them with RTV over the slots in my exhausts to make sure they're nice n' airtight, so I'm not one to judge.
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UTC quote
I'm struggling to get the flywheel off. The circlip keeps letting go. Have to find a way to expand it which is hard with the socket on the nut. Any advice appreciated.
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UTC quote
You can pull the circlip and stretch it a little bigger. Now bend a small sharp tool and clean out the groove best you can after pulling the nut and squirt some penetrant down into the taper before reinstalling. Make SURE 'sharp' corner of circlip is on the outside.

Heat now outside the hub for extra insurance and then this part which works well for me:

Find an offset box end wrench that gets a good hold of the nut and a friend to help, or just take baby steps. Find a good hardened steel center punch that fits the centerdrilled end of your crank. As you SLOWLY increase pressure on the circlip w/ wrench, give sharp raps on the crank w/ centerpunch. For me, heat and shock always pops it off. Good luck!
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UTC quote
Thanks Voodoo. Tried all that except the heat. Pretty much shredded the circlip now. Bastard won't budge. Will try the heat.
@subetherbass avatar
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UTC quote
Reverse nut on thread, so it is level with the end of thread, then smack shaft with mallet (nut will protect thread)
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UTC quote
SubEtherBASS wrote:
Reverse nut on thread, so it is level with the end of thread, then smack shaft with mallet (nut will protect thread)
I did give it a fair few good whacks with a centre punch but no luck.
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UTC quote
While you had tension on the nut? Heat, penetrant? Still popped off? Livid emoticon

Damn cheap circlip you can't buy easy.


Hmmm ... Get the circlip hammered and filed good as you can and carefully super glue it in place???
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UTC quote
Yeah whacked it under tension but no heat. The circlip groove is 1/2 a mm deep. Relying on a pissy little circlip to pull a part that hasn't moved in 50 years. First of many challenges I'm sure I'll come across
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UTC quote
Bobo wrote:
I did give it a fair few good whacks with a centre punch but no luck.
Centre punch? Nay Bro, Once i was happy with the nut being back on & protecting the thread it was out with the sledgie!


Ohh, and possibly a 2nd person to hold tension on the 3 levers (ie. big fuk screwdrivers or chisels) , ensuring the ends were lined up with the fins so you don't snap bits off the flywheel (generally the snapped bits are from doing this, but having the tension/stress/pressure in between the fins
Where NOT to put the ends/tips of the screwdriver!
Where NOT to put the ends/tips of the screwdriver!
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UTC quote
Good stuff. Thanks. I had to pack up the tools today because I was getting frustrated and could see myself breaking something... like the fins Will start afresh another time.
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UTC quote
Bobo wrote:
Good stuff. Thanks. I had to pack up the tools today because I was getting frustrated and could see myself breaking something... like the fins Will start afresh another time.
Sledgehammers and frustration are a BAD mix!
UTC

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UTC quote
3/4" impact wrench and a circlip behind the circlip in the groove.
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UTC quote
The flywheel circlip on my VBC was missing. I bought a few different sizes from the hardware store that looked like they might fit. They were SAE sizes, not metric. Cleaned out the groove and installed it. It was a bit big which actually helped. Flywheel came right off.
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Location: Sydney, Australia
UTC quote
The_PS wrote:
3/4" impact wrench and a circlip behind the circlip in the groove.
Two circlips! That might just be crazy enough to work.
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