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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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I REALLY wanted to have the condenser tucked out of the way. I absolutely didn't want it located inside the left side cowl. I also didn't want it front and center behind the carb door. There was juuuuust enough space under the back portion of the frame that i could tuck it up up high out of the way. It took some finagling to find the exact positioning. The reason being is that the right side cowl hinge is in that same area. I welded in two stainless steel M6 screws to be used as mounting studs. I'm very pleased with the mounting results.
M6 studs welded into place
M6 studs welded into place
Aluminum tube spacers slipped over the top of the studs
Aluminum tube spacers slipped over the top of the studs
final positioning of the condenser
final positioning of the condenser
you can just barely see the condenser at this angle
you can just barely see the condenser at this angle
And there's enough clearance with the hinge linkage
And there's enough clearance with the hinge linkage
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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I also got lucky that i squeezed in the Trailtech reg/rec between the frame and the tank. I also mounted them close enough together that i won't have to extend the black and red wires.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
The two regulator mounting screws are just low enough to be below the cowl rubber.
The two regulator mounting screws are just low enough to be below the cowl rubber.
You can just barely see the regulator when the tank is installed
You can just barely see the regulator when the tank is installed
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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I started on running my new Spiegler brake lines. I'm using a M10x1 brake pressure switch midway between the rear brake lines.
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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I mocked up the front brake line to check to see if i ordered the correct length...which i did. There's absolutely zero room for a brake pressure switch anywhere in the front hose. I'm trying to decide if i want to use a stock PX two wire brake switch on the master cylinder. I'd prefer to have a clean look with no wires though. But at the same time, i really like the safety factor of having a front brake light switch.
It's a tight fit, but my LED headlight will fit with that brake line located there.
It's a tight fit, but my LED headlight will fit with that brake line located there.
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@charlieman22 avatar
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Nedminder
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62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Wow whodat!
Looking incredible.
So many good solutions.
Full steam punk results.
Jealous!

(Man - looks so nice to have access to the tunnel like that!)
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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charlieman22 wrote:
Wow whodat!
Looking incredible.
So many good solutions.
Full steam punk results.
Jealous!

(Man - looks so nice to have access to the tunnel like that!)
Yeah, the further i get into this project, the more i realize just how lucky i am to have a rusted out floor!
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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I bought a SIP conversion wire harness, but soon realized that i would have to disassemble the loom and rerun, reroute, and redo most of the wires. So i decided to build my own using high quality made in the US of A TXL automotive wire. I started loosely laying out some wires, but quickly realized i needed to modify my headlight switch assembly. It took me a good 3 hours to modify it to work the way i wanted it...
-the headlight and taillight are wires together and are able to be turned off.
-a spot light can be turned on and off independently of the headlight/taillight.
-i have a working horn button.
-i have an ignition kill button.
if you haven't modified one of these AC switches to work with DC power, then you're really missing out
if you haven't modified one of these AC switches to work with DC power, then you're really missing out
You can get the idea what's going on here...
You can get the idea what's going on here...
That tiny ring terminal is used as my ignition kill switch ground. I'm glad i had a bunch of M3 screws in my shop!
That tiny ring terminal is used as my ignition kill switch ground. I'm glad i had a bunch of M3 screws in my shop!
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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And when i tried mocking up the switch into the fancy MMW master cylinder, it wouldn't fit because the MC housing's hole isn't milled out large enough. And i had to take a die grinder and open it up a pinch...with was about 1/16" around the whole perimeter. I had to take off a little bit extra material where the plunger is for the horn. If i didn't do that, the round metal disc on the horn plunger would ground out on the MC!
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
With the switch finally installed
With the switch finally installed
it's more clear in this pic how the grounding screw works
it's more clear in this pic how the grounding screw works
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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I'm not really sure what brake switch is supposed to thread into this hole, but it's definitely not an industry standard size. No the stock PX brake switch won't fit...plus it's too short to even activate the switch. No, a KTM 990A clutch safety switch won't work either...it's the same size as a PX.

I'm really on the fence about having a front brake light switch. I want one for safety, but man it's been a real battle this whole time just to try to get a switch to fit.
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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I spent quite a few hours designing my wire harness on paper. I'm planning on using lots of 14, 16, and a short run of 18 gauge wires (to the LED taillight/brake light).

To design the wire harness, i made a copy of the SIP wire diagram (that came with my harness) and began to modify the diagram until i was satisfied.
SIP's wire diagram for a 12 volt AC system
SIP's wire diagram for a 12 volt AC system
my own design for a full wave 12 volt DC wire diagram
my own design for a full wave 12 volt DC wire diagram
and a glamour shot to whet your appetite. There's a looong ways to go through...i had to order more 14 AWG wire this evening.
and a glamour shot to whet your appetite. There's a looong ways to go through...i had to order more 14 AWG wire this evening.
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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A package arrived from Baja Designs today!

-One amber lens...check.
-One round XL bezel...check.
-One missing XL LED light...mate?

I'll be making a phone call monday morning to straighten this one out.
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Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
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Ossessionato
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2007 Stella 225
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https://www.lossaengineering.com/products/nectech-2-0-controller-w-o-switches

There are a few different versions of this out there depending on accessories. I have to find it again, a few use low voltage wiring for turn signal wiring from headset to controller. Looks like a person could really make some room in headset and clean up wiring with a modern controller.
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Ossessionato
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
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Ossessionato
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DUDE! That is a beautiful brake MC. Your whole design of it all is very elegant. I'm taking notes, and if I ever to build a bike full DC, which is likely with the tight rat I have in the wings, I'll be referencing what you've done here.

Fantastic! Clap emoticon Clap emoticon Clap emoticon
So clean!
So clean!
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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Happy Easter all!
I spent a little bit of time today messing with the wire harness a bit more, but before i could go too far with it, i needed to sort out the carb door. The original spring retaining clamp has rusted away a long time ago, so i needed to fashion a new one. I used a scrap piece of flat stainless steel and kept manipulated until it looked like something that would work...perfectly. The original retaining clamp was spot welded into place, but i wanted to bolt mine down. I'm pleased with the results.
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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I didn't really want to have any exposed wires on this scooter, but prudence got the best of me...

I really wanted a front brake light switch, but i REALLY didn't want to have an exposed brake light switch wires. I plan on riding this scooter on the highways and byways, both during the day and night, so exposed brake light switch it is.

The switch doesn't look too obtrusive so i can live with it. Being able to activate my brake light with the front brake while i'm standing still at a stop light waiting to be rear ended will make me breath easier.
i drilled a hole at an angle through the bottom of the headset
i drilled a hole at an angle through the bottom of the headset
ran the brake pressure switch wires up through the hole
ran the brake pressure switch wires up through the hole
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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I started laying out the wires for the harness last night. It's never a quick process (at least for me). I want to take it slow and methodical so i don't have to go back and open up the loom mid way through the final install. Once all the wires are mocked up exactly where i want them i'll go back and fit them inside a sheathing...which i have absolutely no idea if i have enough of it or not.
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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VNB VSC VMA VSX - o9c vbc vmb
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just wow... every time I stop in I am completely entertained.
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unwaxed dental floss works really well to bundle the wilres together as you go and you can leave it in place when adding the sheathing.

wrap it around twice and secure it with a surgeons knot
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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oopsclunkthud wrote:
unwaxed dental floss works really well to bundle the wilres together as you go and you can leave it in place when adding the sheathing.

wrap it around twice and secure it with a surgeons knot
double like
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Nedminder
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I'm just digesting that Patric knows how to make a surgeons knot
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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charlieman22 wrote:
I'm just digesting that Patric knows how to make a surgeons knot
wait a sec...you guys telling me i've been using the wrong knot all these years?
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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And here's a pic to make all of you jealous for not having a rusted out floorboard...
nothin....absolutely nothin like having full access to running wires and cables!
nothin....absolutely nothin like having full access to running wires and cables!
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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A little item arrived today in the mail, but first a short backstory from 2 weeks ago...

About 3/4 up this page a VERY sharp eye will notice that i had a 1968 US 1 cents penny epoxied over the hole where the factory rear brake switch is located. The copper penny looked fantastic over the hole. The coloring of it match the color of the scooter. I had REALLY wanted to use a 1958 penny, but i couldn't find one in my stash. So i decided to just epoxy that 68 penny instead....but it was bothering....lots. So about 6 hours i popped the penny and cleaned the epoxy off the frame. I then bought a sack 30 1958 pennies off of ebay! Then about an hour later i had an epiphany to google search "1958 italian coin". Well after scrolling through a few google images of italian coins, i found THE perfect coin! It's a 1958 50 Lire coin, known as "hammer and anvil" or a "vulcan". The backside of the coin pretty much describes this VB1 project to a T! Lots of hammering, lots of forming metal on and anvil, lots of heat, many times i had my shirt off when working on this scooter (the Vulcan god on the backside of the coin does have a much better backside than me though. Looks like i'll have to hit the gym up a bit more before i can compete with that). The other bonus is that the coin is stainless steel, which is abundantly used throughout this build. Once the epoxy hardens up a bit, i'll spray a shot of clear coat paint over the top so that it will blend in a bit more.
a zoomed in view of the penny that i epoxied (then promptly removed).
a zoomed in view of the penny that i epoxied (then promptly removed).
the sack of 1958 "wheat" pennies that i WAS going to use.
the sack of 1958 "wheat" pennies that i WAS going to use.
it was easiest to just put the scooter on the side when letting the epoxy set up
it was easiest to just put the scooter on the side when letting the epoxy set up
50 Lire front side
50 Lire front side
Vulcan god hammering on the backside...gotta watch out where them hot sparks are goin
Vulcan god hammering on the backside...gotta watch out where them hot sparks are goin
what it looks like epoxied into place. It should look better with a shot of rattle can clear coat over the top of it.
what it looks like epoxied into place. It should look better with a shot of rattle can clear coat over the top of it.
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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The Dude
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Very cool and well thought out detail. I dig it man
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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I fashioned up the wire harness today. I used high quality cross linked TXL wire. 14 gauge for the main 12 volt power and ground wires that travels from the condenser to the headlight switch and headset Then 16 gauge wire branches off from there to supply the horn and headlight.

The one issue that popped up (which i knew it would, but just wasn't sure how much), was that the slotted notch (at the top of the steering neck) is a pinch too narrow for the wires to comfortably (and reliably) fit through. I'll have to make the opening larger before i go any further with installing the harness. I guess it's not really a setback if it's semi-expected...
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Ossessionato
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The penny is a nice touch and I really like how you did the floor. It's great for the cables and wiring but also a great way to have easy access to a rust prone area.

I am doing something similar with some of the smaller frame sections of my VW bus…making access panels to rust prone areas that somehow accumulate water and debris that lead to rust. Makes it easy to clean and treat.

I spent a lot of time removing rust from the frame tunnel of my 200. If the rust were to return, I would probably make some access panels similar to yours.
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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Prudence got the best of me so i ended up enlarging the slot in the top of the frame (where the cables and wires pass through). It wasn't terribly difficult. I first enlarged the each end of the slot with a carbide bit. Then i used a standard drill bit to redneck "mill" out the rest of the slot. I then followed up with a round file and a scotchbrite wheel on the die grinder. The metal edge now feels very smooth on my finger. There's much more room for the wire harness loom now! The only downside is that i'm now thinking i might do this same mod to my Allstate.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
a squirt of primer over the bare metal
a squirt of primer over the bare metal
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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My Baja Designs LED showed up today! BD shipped me one of there custom LED housings that's normally reserved for one particular dealers of theirs, but i lucked out and they sold one directly to me. It's one of those items that aren't normally on the menu. The housing is extra low profile (compared to their other version), and juuuuust barely fits inside the headset with a few slaps from the palm of my hand! There looks to be plenty of room for the gear and throttle pulleys, as well at the hydraulic brake line.

The LED came with a clear "driving combo" lens and a standard square bezel. I bought an amber colored "driving combo" lens and a round bezel for my build. The amber color lens will definitely sap some usable lumens, but that could be a good thing so that i don't blind oncoming traffic at night.

I won't mount the LED until the scooter is up and running. The reason being is that i will have to aim the LED while i make a final mounting bracket solution.
Side profile. Top LED is a standard housing. Middle LED is the special low profile housing. Bottom light is a standard housing that i cut down.
Side profile. Top LED is a standard housing. Middle LED is the special low profile housing. Bottom light is a standard housing that i cut down.
backside view
backside view
the square bezel is still mounted to the led in this pic
the square bezel is still mounted to the led in this pic
pic of the round bezel installed
pic of the round bezel installed
you can see the square bezel in the background
you can see the square bezel in the background
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
looking down the hole where the speedo resides, there's a decent amount of space.
looking down the hole where the speedo resides, there's a decent amount of space.
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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I got a couple things done today. I floated the ground on the stator. It's a standard 5 wire piaggio PX. I unsoldered both the blue and black 16 gauge (or maybe they're even a smaller diameter than that?) wires and replaced them with two yellow 14 gauge wires (that of course go all the way to the regulator). I also spend less than 3 minutes fishing the wire harness through the frame. The harness is now all laid out, but i still need to anchor down and then shorten all the wires to their final termination points....which is the fun/tedious stuff for me.

I also installed the fork, for what i believe will be the very last time...especially since the steering fork bearings are now greased up and the nuts on top of the fork stem are now torqued to spec. I'm thinking this scooter might get on the heavy side when it comes time to picking it up off the sawhorses and down onto the ground.

I'm heading off to Hermosillo, Mexico tomorrow morning (for a week long offroad rally race that i'm a volunteer at). All i can say it that it will be a loooooong drive down there. Google is telling me around 1600 miles. Tacos, sunshine, and dirtbikes will make it worth it. Luckily i have a comped plane ticket to fly back home though!
i floated the ground with a yellow wire. I used a second yellow wire to replace the original blue wire.
i floated the ground with a yellow wire. I used a second yellow wire to replace the original blue wire.
the connectors are in the junction box. i still need to shorten up the CDI wires
the connectors are in the junction box. i still need to shorten up the CDI wires
This was as far as i got this afternoon. I wanted to keep working on the harness, but i needed to pack up some clothes for my trip tomorrow morning.
This was as far as i got this afternoon. I wanted to keep working on the harness, but i needed to pack up some clothes for my trip tomorrow morning.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
I'm trying to keep the harness clean and inconspicuous when the carb door gets opened. I still need to anchor the wires down.
I'm trying to keep the harness clean and inconspicuous when the carb door gets opened. I still need to anchor the wires down.
⚠️ Last edited by whodatschrome on UTC; edited 1 time
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Ossessionato
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
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Ossessionato
@qascooter avatar
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
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That machine is looking really, really good!

Have an awesome time in Mexico and on the road trip. Sigh - I could use some sun and desert about now...
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Molto Verboso
'13 LML Star 200, '81 50 Special, '81 P 150 X, '87 PK 50 Nuova, '84 PK 50 S
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Molto Verboso
@roland87 avatar
'13 LML Star 200, '81 50 Special, '81 P 150 X, '87 PK 50 Nuova, '84 PK 50 S
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Clap emoticon Clap emoticon Clap emoticon amazing build Clap emoticon Clap emoticon Clap emoticon
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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roland87 wrote:
Clap emoticon Clap emoticon Clap emoticon amazing build Clap emoticon Clap emoticon Clap emoticon
Thank you very much Roland! It has been a VERY fun project! I don't have to stick to any sort of rules when building it, so there isn't any sort of pressure for me to build a concourse scooter. I'm also really enjoying the problem solving that the scooter has stricken me with.
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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I've been holding off on buying LED lights for my taillight simply because they're somewhat in the expensive side. For the past couple years, there's only one brand i've even considered (i've used them in the past on a different project). But since a bright tail and brake light are pretty darn important from a safety standpoint, i spent (more like invested) the $$ on them.

I used the Hyper-Lite brand. They are pretty darn mundane looking when they're in your hand, but don't be fooled, they are flippin bright! They also come with a flasher unit that goes party strobe crazy when you hit the brakes. How crazy?...well, let's just say that if anyone rear ends me, they will have done it on purpose.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
I used automotive bumper repair epoxy to glue the two LED modules together.
I used automotive bumper repair epoxy to glue the two LED modules together.
I taped them to a piece of metal so that they would be flat.
I taped them to a piece of metal so that they would be flat.
what they looked like epoxied together
what they looked like epoxied together
backside view
backside view
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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I had a REALLY beat up VB1 taillight that had a few holes in it as well as two sections of it missing for some reason. So after patching it all back up with the welder (it sucked big time to weld), it had a great patina that matches the rest of the scooter. I didn't feel bad for the rest of the steps that i was about to do...
the garage taillight housing brought back from the dead.
the garage taillight housing brought back from the dead.
I got a replacement red lens from Clauss. I purposely installed the lens upside down because the lens prisms made the LEDs brighter that way.
I got a replacement red lens from Clauss. I purposely installed the lens upside down because the lens prisms made the LEDs brighter that way.
a scrap piece of aluminum was found in the shop. It happened to be a correct length.
a scrap piece of aluminum was found in the shop. It happened to be a correct length.
a little slice in the metal so that there's clearance for the wires
a little slice in the metal so that there's clearance for the wires
I scuffed you the aluminum and the back side of the LED modules
I scuffed you the aluminum and the back side of the LED modules
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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I used more of the bumper epoxy to attach the LEDs to the aluminum angle. I then used JB Weld to attach the aluminum angle to the taillight housing. The JBW is still curing tonight, so i should be able to test fit it tomorrow on the scooter frame. I did bench test the LEDs this evening, and man-O-man are they ever bright! I can't get any good pics of it they're that bright. Sounds to me like a success!
LEDs epoxied to the aluminum angle
LEDs epoxied to the aluminum angle
backside view
backside view
I used a nipple clamp to hold the aluminum angle tightly to the taillight housing while the JB Weld cures.
I used a nipple clamp to hold the aluminum angle tightly to the taillight housing while the JB Weld cures.
it's bright
it's bright
The scooter is about 12' away from the taillight. The other random shtuff (that's in the background) is about 20' away.
The scooter is about 12' away from the taillight. The other random shtuff (that's in the background) is about 20' away.
⚠️ Last edited by whodatschrome on UTC; edited 3 times
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Molto Verboso
'13 LML Star 200, '81 50 Special, '81 P 150 X, '87 PK 50 Nuova, '84 PK 50 S
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Molto Verboso
@roland87 avatar
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Cool! It seems more bright than my 50 Special headlight
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UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7129
Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
@socalguy avatar
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7129
Location: So Cal
UTC quote
Nominating this for What Have You JB Welded?

Super creative re-purposing of that old taillight.

Can you post a vid of the lights flashing? From the description they sound pretty wild in action.
OP
UTC

parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5177
 
parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5177
UTC quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
Nominating this for What Have You JB Welded?

Super creative re-purposing of that old taillight.

Can you post a vid of the lights flashing? From the description they sound pretty wild in action.
I forgot to take any before pics of the taillight, but for some reason someone at some point decided to cut out 3/4" square holes in the side of it....then decided to patch it back together with lead solder and sheet metal. I was going to just throw it away, but after a year or so of it kicking around the shop i figured i could fix it up enough to make it work. I'm plenty pleased with the results, but i had major porosity issued when trying to weld it all back up.

I have no idea how to post up a video. But, here's a link to the Hyper-lite website where they have a short 6 second video of their lights flashing.
https://hyperlites.com/brake-lights/

Not me nor my video, but fast forward to 1:01.13. It's the same exact U32 kit with running light option that i installed. www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqtcyUrHeBc&t=3678s
OP
UTC

parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5177
 
parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5177
UTC quote
I got the taillight installed and all the subsequent wires soldered up this morning. Both the taillight and brake light are wired up to the headlight wire, which means i can shut off power to all the lighting at the light switch that's located on the handlebar. I purposely did that so that i can have a stealth mode.
lights off
lights off
just the running light on
just the running light on
though it's difficult to see the difference, this is a pic of the brake light. It's a pinch brighter than the running light pic.
though it's difficult to see the difference, this is a pic of the brake light. It's a pinch brighter than the running light pic.
All the wiring is completed in the rear portion of the scooter. Non of it will be able to be seen once the fuel tank is reinstalled.
All the wiring is completed in the rear portion of the scooter. Non of it will be able to be seen once the fuel tank is reinstalled.
@qascooter avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4234
Location: Florence, OR
 
Ossessionato
@qascooter avatar
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4234
Location: Florence, OR
UTC quote
Stealth mode - I love it! Mighty fine work.....
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