qascooter wrote:
Don't sell yourself short there Kemosabe - you do what us mere mortals only dream of doing...
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Mon, 02 Jan 2023 06:50:07 +0000
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Mon, 02 Jan 2023 06:50:07 +0000
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qascooter wrote: Don't sell yourself short there Kemosabe - you do what us mere mortals only dream of doing... |
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 02:02:33 +0000
parallelogramerist
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 02:02:33 +0000
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I finished up, or at least i think i finished up with the aluminum plate. It took a little bit of heat and a brass hammer to massage the aluminum exactly where i wanted it. I then ran more of the M6 cap screws through the body seam.
Hindsight, looking at these photos, i could have made a much longer piece of aluminum plate that would travel most of the way up to the bottom of the horn casting?...but just as long as the rear portion of the mudguard didn't rub against it. I still could have made it at least 6" longer without any fitment issues. It would have strengthen the frame up quite a bit more if i had done that. ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by whodatschrome on Tue, 03 Jan 2023 15:21:39 +0000; edited 4 times |
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 02:58:07 +0000
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 02:58:07 +0000
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It was finally time to fit the exhaust. I knew that going into this part of the build that the exhaust was going to have to be modified in order to fit. The reason being is that i extended the rear shock bracket enough, that the exhaust would foul out against the bottom of the floorboard when the suspension is at full extension.
I had a perfectly good Sito+ that i modified with a SIP weld on O-ring manifold...that i didn't really want to modify again...but it needed to happen so i made it happen. First I cut the SIP manifold off the end of the Sito. Then i cut off the rear leg of the mounting bracket. After that i bent the lead leg back to where i wanted the main portion of the box to be. ![]() ![]() You have to look close to see where i cut the rear leg off of the support bracket. ![]() I made an extension out of 3/16" flat plate. ![]() extension welded into place ![]() manifold welded back onto the neck. I'll have to relocate the exhaust hanger spring tabs. ![]() And a view of the muffler fitted. The next step is to fit a centerstand return spring...which i'm planning on doing tomorrow. Last edited by whodatschrome on Tue, 03 Jan 2023 15:20:32 +0000; edited 1 time
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 03:06:49 +0000
parallelogramerist
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 03:06:49 +0000
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Months and months ago figured this would happen, but i didn't want to check for clearance until now...
...so does anybody know how easily the kickstart lever is to successfully bend? I figured i would heat it up a bunch then go for it. ![]() the centerstand clears the kickstart lever with no problems...but it is close. ![]() Yeah, the kickstart lever just barely makes some slight contact with the floorboard. |
![]() Tue, 03 Jan 2023 03:55:44 +0000
Nedminder
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 03:55:44 +0000
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Hmmmm.
Do you have a kiln? Wadda bout: 1. Bend the stand instead. Cheap and cheery. 2. Offset the kicks start by cutting and welding an offset of some kind - grind & polish... |
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 04:08:47 +0000
parallelogramerist
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 04:08:47 +0000
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charlieman22 wrote: Hmmmm. Do you have a kiln? Wadda bout: 1. Bend the stand instead. Cheap and cheery. 2. Offset the kicks start by cutting and welding an offset of some kind - grind & polish... I already bent the stand leg just far enough so that the lever will miss it. It's just the floorboard that the lever makes contact with. From my experience of accidentally bending aluminum levers (rear brake levers, gear shifter levers, clutch levers), so far i've found that you can get one good bend before it breaks...at least with all of the aluminum levers on my dirtbikes. I just wasn't sure how well a P lever will bend. I didn't really think of cutting and welding an offset into the lever. I have no idea how well the aluminum will weld. I suppose i could try bending the lever first, and if it breaks, then see how well i can weld it back together? |
Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX181 Quattrini and some motorbikes
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 04:49:48 +0000
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What about one of these? Expect it to be slightly shorter.
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/kickstart-lever-sip-vbb-style_751222CR
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 05:24:59 +0000
parallelogramerist
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 05:24:59 +0000
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Jack221 wrote: What about one of these? Expect it to be slightly shorter. https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/kickstart-lever-sip-vbb-style_751222CR |
![]() Tue, 03 Jan 2023 06:24:00 +0000
Nedminder
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 06:24:00 +0000
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ooo.
Shorter VBB lever - if it works to give clearance - is a great solution. All these kitted 150's (nearly 200CC on mine) with high compression - is no problem to kick over. |
Sergeant at Arms
![]() Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 11:32:51 +0000
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I'd fit one of the conversion levers. I put one on a polini 208 that I sent out the door and honestly it didn't feel much different than the P one.
another option is that you could put in a T5 K/S quad and run a rally lever. that might give you just the clearance you need and will have the "right" look as well. |
Tue, 03 Jan 2023 15:59:49 +0000
Molto Verboso
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
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Molto Verboso
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 15:59:49 +0000
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whodatschrome wrote: I was thinking about one of those conversion levers as well. No doubt aesthetically it would look way better than a P series lever! My only hesitation is how much more difficult would it be to kick over the engine with that shorter lever? I guess i'm in absolutely zero rush to fit a kickstart lever. That's literally one of the last things on the list before firing up the scooter. |
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 18:06:32 +0000
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Damn that's so close...
I'm picturing that lever in a roller bender, though no clue where the bend break/too compromised point is. But damn, that's really close. I'm you have a conversion lever ready to install and just go for it, it won't break. It's science.
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![]() Tue, 03 Jan 2023 18:11:43 +0000
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 18:11:43 +0000
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or make an adaptor to fit a wide body kickstart.
the lever is the first thing I look at when I see a wide body, so tripping up that tell for a moment could be fun.
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Tue, 03 Jan 2023 23:31:46 +0000
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oopsclunkthud wrote: or make an adaptor to fit a wide body kickstart. the lever is the first thing I look at when I see a wide body, so tripping up that tell for a moment could be fun. |
![]() Tue, 03 Jan 2023 23:53:18 +0000
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greasy125 wrote: Mr. Owens subtly morphing from hero to villain status right before our eyes. I, for one am here for that... ![]() I actually spent a little time considering if the kickstart lever could be mounted at the shift box so that it would be in the correct position for a wide body as well. I'll stop now, maybe.
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Wed, 04 Jan 2023 00:03:45 +0000
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Wed, 04 Jan 2023 00:03:45 +0000
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I wonder if i could make my own kickstart lever with a welder, gas axe, and a 35mm combination wrench...
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Wed, 04 Jan 2023 02:58:12 +0000
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Wed, 04 Jan 2023 02:58:12 +0000
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I mounted up a bracket to use for the centerstand return spring. I spent a couple hours brain storming...which meant walking around in circles in my shop looking for literally ANYTHING that could possibly be used as a bracket. I finally realized that i had a handful of stainless footman loops (that are to be used on my jeep project). I got lucky and it only took me 15 minutes to find them!...they were inside my jeep. I also had two extra M6 x 6mm aluminum tube spacers that were left over from fabbing up the battery trays for my Allstate 200 and PK. All it took was a couple holes drilled in the aluminum floor support plate.
![]() ![]() centerstand all the way up ![]() stand all the way down ![]() what it looks like with the exhaust installed. Though it's very close, the spring doesn't rub against anything.
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![]() Wed, 04 Jan 2023 04:10:28 +0000
Nedminder
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Wed, 04 Jan 2023 04:10:28 +0000
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crafty!
really surprised at how much I like your bottom reinforcement. Thought at first - why use aluminum, why not weld - but the beaty of that thick skid plate like part has really grown on me. The little handle you used for the spring is great - but... suspect its cast - which means it might not hold up to the vibrations. Doesn't really matter I suppose - can alway be replaced and that stand won't fall down and jack your back wheel off the ground if it happens in motion. Still - something to consider? Keep up the good work. SoCal and I talked about how impressed we were when he was up last week. |
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Wed, 04 Jan 2023 04:45:54 +0000
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Wed, 04 Jan 2023 04:45:54 +0000
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charlieman22 wrote: crafty! really surprised at how much I like your bottom reinforcement. Thought at first - why use aluminum, why not weld - but the beaty of that thick skid plate like part has really grown on me. The little handle you used for the spring is great - but... suspect its cast - which means it might not hold up to the vibrations. Doesn't really matter I suppose - can alway be replaced and that stand won't fall down and jack your back wheel off the ground if it happens in motion. Still - something to consider? Keep up the good work. SoCal and I talked about how impressed we were when he was up last week. I was really going back and forth with welding in a stainless steel frame, but in the end i was trying to keep as much of the rust look as possible. So it wasn't about time or money...ok, maybe just a little bit, but it would have only been another $100~$150 in materials. If i get any sort of frame flex how it currently is, i will probably extend that aluminum plate at least another 6" up towards the horncast. If that doesn't cure it, then i'll just buckle down and slip in a tube frame inside the tunnel that will attach to both the engine mount adapter and the fork column. If my frame was just a pinch more rusty, then it would be a no brainer decision to do just that. You guys are impressed with my work huh?...well we'll just have to see what happens the first time i forget that i'm on a chicken wire reinforced papier-mâché Vespa frame and go riding off a curb at 20mph. Hopefully the frame doesn't snap in half faster than a yellow booted SEA bodge.
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Wed, 04 Jan 2023 04:54:06 +0000
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whodatschrome wrote: You guys are impressed with my work huh?...well we'll just have to see what happens the first time i forget that i'm on a chicken wire reinforced papier-mâché Vespa frame and go riding off a curb at 20mph. Hopefully the frame doesn't snap in half faster than a yellow booted SEA bodge.
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Nedminder
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Wed, 04 Jan 2023 15:34:20 +0000
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Looking good man. Over lunch at Denny's, we seriously pondered what was more impressive:
1. Your improv and fabrication skills 2. The fact that you have a massive barn seemingly full of an endless supply of machines and toys and stuff to improvise and fabricate with. Holy Christmas, whatever you're doing up there, keep it up. |
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Wed, 04 Jan 2023 16:54:07 +0000
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Wed, 04 Jan 2023 16:54:07 +0000
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SoCalGuy wrote: Looking good man. Over lunch at Denny's, we seriously pondered what was more impressive: 1. Your improv and fabrication skills 2. The fact that you have a massive barn seemingly full of an endless supply of machines and toys and stuff to improvise and fabricate with. Holy Christmas, whatever you're doing up there, keep it up. But on a more serious note, thank you for the compliment. I REALLY enjoy hanging out in the shop and working on projects (even if it below 40 degrees during most of the winter). No offense to the ladies, but i would prefer to be building something cool in the shop than hanging out. Being single affords me the time and energy to work on shop projects. It might sound selfish, but sorry girls, i'd rather be wrenching and riding... ...well except for today. The high winds just knocked out the power this morning (again), so i can't work in the shop. |
![]() Wed, 04 Jan 2023 17:06:53 +0000
Nedminder
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Wed, 04 Jan 2023 17:06:53 +0000
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Bummer on the power!
Especially with a day of play available. We get more hermit like in our old age. 🙂. Same storms down here - tho milder. Ocean is white capped. Sky is gray. I'm off to work on my shop… ![]()
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Wed, 04 Jan 2023 18:29:41 +0000
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Wed, 04 Jan 2023 18:29:41 +0000
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charlieman22 wrote: Bummer on the power! Especially with a day of play available. We get more hermit like in our old age. 🙂. Same storms down here - tho milder. Ocean is white capped. Sky is gray. I'm off to work on my shop…
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Thu, 05 Jan 2023 05:48:24 +0000
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Thu, 05 Jan 2023 05:48:24 +0000
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I'm beginning to switch gears (get it?) and started figuring out where all to run my control cables...mainly the clutch and gear at the moment. I've been racking my brain for the past few days trying to come up with a few ideas, but i only came up with one. I feel as though it's not optimal, but i think i'll be satisfied with the final results.
I used a gas axe to heat up the stainless engine bracket adapter until it was brightly glowing. I then took a round rod and hammered it into the red hot steel. It created an indentation that was a little bit larger diameter than the clutch cable. I will need to make a couple more indentations for the gear cable. ![]() There was really no worry that i was going to melt through the stainless since it physically can't be cut with an oxy acetylene torch. ![]() When the stainless was still red hot, i pounded the side of the round punch into the bracket. ![]() The contour is smoother and rounder than it looks. ![]() I made sure that the indentation groove was directly inline with the clutch cable adjuster on the engine block. ![]() The cable easily slips through floor support plate. I'll have to make a couple more indentations for the gear cables tomorrow or the next day.
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Sat, 07 Jan 2023 04:51:05 +0000
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Sat, 07 Jan 2023 04:51:05 +0000
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I pounded in another groove into the engine adapter bracket. It's wide enough for both gear cables. Though i don't think it will do much, i decided to tie the aluminum floor support plate to the engine bracket. There was only room to fit three M6 cap screws, so it won't provide much more structure. But hey, every little bit helps, right?
![]() Where i pounded in the second groove for the cables. ![]() There's lots lot swapping around of gas bottles when you're welding three different types of metals. ![]() This is the short strip of 1/8" stainless that i welded onto the bracket. ![]() And with the 3 additional screws installed ![]() There's not much if any room to weld in another plate on the bracket, so it will only get 3 screws.
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![]() Sat, 07 Jan 2023 06:43:33 +0000
Nedminder
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Sat, 07 Jan 2023 06:43:33 +0000
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That'l add some significant stiffness.
The plate will be constrained from U shaping. At the other end - it gets narrow - so it will already be getting constrained on that same plane. Like the way you are harvesting the extra 25%! Question - are you gas welding any of this?!? Or is this all MIG/ with different gas? |
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Sat, 07 Jan 2023 08:05:27 +0000
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Sat, 07 Jan 2023 08:05:27 +0000
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charlieman22 wrote: That'l add some significant stiffness. The plate will be constrained from U shaping. At the other end - it gets narrow - so it will already be getting constrained on that same plane. Like the way you are harvesting the extra 25%! Question - are you gas welding any of this?!? Or is this all MIG/ with different gas? |
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Sun, 08 Jan 2023 05:48:36 +0000
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Sun, 08 Jan 2023 05:48:36 +0000
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When i reangled the Sito muffler bracket, i also had to cut off and reweld the manifold sleeve onto the down tube. And since i did that, the spring hanger loops that i welded into the Sito were now in the incorrect spot. So i cut them both off and welded new ones on...but the one problem was that the engine had a missing chunk of its case where i had planned to hang a spring bracket off of. It never bothered me that it was missing, so i never fixed it when it would have been easier to fix (such as when the cases were stripped down). But now i didn't really have an option. I searched around my shop for a chunk of cast aluminum that was somewhat a similar shape-ish so that i could fashion into a something i could work with. During my hunt i saw that i has an exploded up P case (that i forgot i had in my scrap metal pile). That case donated it's piece to my good case!
![]() ![]() this is what the exploded case looks like. You can see the missing chunk in my good engine. ![]() With the piece surgically removed from the blown up case. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() With it welded into place. I only did a little bit of grinding on the weld beads since i didn't want to throw aluminum dust all over my assembled case. I can always clean it up and make it prettier the next time i split the cases. ![]() This is what it looks like with both exhaust springs finally attached. ![]() Both the gear and clutch cables are spaced plenty far enough away from the hot exhaust. |
Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX181 Quattrini and some motorbikes
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Sun, 08 Jan 2023 06:19:42 +0000
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Amazing what you can do. Good to have the case fixed but I usually drill a hole in the bottom cylinder fin to put the spring on. Has a straighter line and less risk.
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Sun, 08 Jan 2023 06:54:53 +0000
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Sun, 08 Jan 2023 06:54:53 +0000
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Jack221 wrote: Amazing what you can do. Good to have the case fixed but I usually drill a hole in the bottom cylinder fin to put the spring on. Has a straighter line and less risk. |
Molto Verboso
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Sun, 08 Jan 2023 13:26:25 +0000
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Nice work. That scoot looks solid. Someday a TIG welder is in my future.
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Sun, 26 Feb 2023 06:50:42 +0000
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Sun, 26 Feb 2023 06:50:42 +0000
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I did some work this week on the VB1.
I tack welded in a choke pull housing (that was out of my Allstate 208 project) to the VB. I would have liked to have installed the choke in the exact spot as the GS150, but there wasn't enough room and it would have prevented the fuel tank from sitting where it needs to be. Hindsight i could have just clearanced the bottom of the fuel tank...oh well. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The choke pull isn't in the optional position aesthetically, but it is in a spot that does as least work spatially. |
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Sun, 26 Feb 2023 06:58:25 +0000
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Sun, 26 Feb 2023 06:58:25 +0000
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I decided to go for broke...by choosing to do what a broke person would do to apply a primer. I bought a gallon of Rustoleum "rusty metal" primer. I slathered two REALLY heavy coats in the whole tunnel areas and under the back of the frame. I'm not going to apply any sort of top coat. The dribbling coats of primer are exactly the look i was after. Now i need to wait about a week for it to harden up enough before i go any further...
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![]() Sun, 26 Feb 2023 15:32:01 +0000
Nedminder
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Sun, 26 Feb 2023 15:32:01 +0000
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Loving this.
I use that stuff in spray form and it does a good job in touch situations. The thicker brush applied is right on for this execution. I was thinking about ur tunnel fix: I imagine you will get really good stiffness out of it - and the tunnel access for future has always appealed to my moist maker sensibilities. Knowing u r an advanced rider - I can imagine from time to time u will find yourself standing on the floor boards. Here u might have more flex then desired - as they might hinge at the tunnel where the original stanchions are cut off? Maybe not - I'm just looking at pics… Wadda u think? |
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Mon, 27 Feb 2023 00:27:57 +0000
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Mon, 27 Feb 2023 00:27:57 +0000
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charlieman22 wrote: Loving this. I use that stuff in spray form and it does a good job in touch situations. The thicker brush applied is right on for this execution. I was thinking about ur tunnel fix: I imagine you will get really good stiffness out of it - and the tunnel access for future has always appealed to my moist maker sensibilities. Knowing u r an advanced rider - I can imagine from time to time u will find yourself standing on the floor boards. Here u might have more flex then desired - as they might hinge at the tunnel where the original stanchions are cut off? Maybe not - I'm just looking at pics… Wadda u think? And yeah, there is (and always was) a concern about having enough floorboard support with the missing struts. I'll probably just have to be careful when standing up on the floorboards...and absolutely no jumping off of stairs or curbs...well maybe just a few curbs. Depending upon if i eat at a buffet, i normally scale in around 155~158lbs, so at least the floorboards will have that going for them. A riding wardrobe consisting of an open face helmet, split leg running shorts, tank top, and a pair of flip flops should also facilitate to longer lasting floorboards. All joking aside, i will install the aluminum floorboard strips so that should give me some structure. Also having a single saddle seat might put my feet in a different position on the floorboards?...i dunno for sure. I'll just have to see how it plays out for the first few weeks of riding it around. |
![]() Mon, 27 Feb 2023 01:36:50 +0000
Nedminder
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Mon, 27 Feb 2023 01:36:50 +0000
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I've seen guys brush on primer like that for their mill/lathe restores when doing the inside.
Then they weenie roll the outside and light sand before paint. Seems so much simpler then setting up a spray booth... Nice and thick also. As for floorboards - not being a critic. In fact - trying to come up with my own plan and just came to realize that some support was gonna be called for. Will be interested to see what you whip up for aluminum cross members. At some point - am following this (off) road. |
OP
Mon, 27 Feb 2023 03:26:14 +0000
parallelogramerist
Joined: Mon, 26 Oct 2015 23:20:12 +0000
Posts: 4272 |
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OP
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Mon, 27 Feb 2023 03:26:14 +0000
quote
charlieman22 wrote: I've seen guys brush on primer like that for their mill/lathe restores when doing the inside. Then they weenie roll the outside and light sand before paint. Seems so much simpler then setting up a spray booth... Nice and thick also. As for floorboards - not being a critic. In fact - trying to come up with my own plan and just came to realize that some support was gonna be called for. Will be interested to see what you whip up for aluminum cross members. At some point - am following this (off) road. |
![]() Mon, 27 Feb 2023 03:33:59 +0000
Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: Sat, 26 Jan 2019 09:50:15 +0000
Posts: 3560 Location: california |
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Nedminder
![]() 62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: Sat, 26 Jan 2019 09:50:15 +0000
Posts: 3560 Location: california |
Mon, 27 Feb 2023 03:33:59 +0000
quote
ahhh. got it.
looking more closely now - I see you extended the plate out past the tunnel edge - so your gonna get some support from that. Maybe it won't need any more in the end. Now that you raise all those issues - like drying out - you've given me something to ponder. 🙂 |
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