Modern Vespa

I'm right there with ya.

When I did my fork, hubs, etc., I didn't even set up the booth. I just dragged my gun and parts out into the yard, shot 'em, then took 'em back inside to hang up and dry.

I keep telling myself "it's worth it…" lol

It's the lie we tell ourselves

Forgot to mention about installing the vape DC ignition…

It blows the pants off the Malossi… beats it hands down, for stability and power, probably due to accurate firing timing…

Wish I brought it earlier now…

Anyone know how many sparks per revolution it is for the Vape?

I feel I set it right at 2per rev, but surely i can't be revving to 10000rpm so fast…

It's only one. Sparks/rev is the same as the number of cylinders on a 2t motor.

I set my speedometer to 6 and works. But I have the AC version. I think you need the extra KOSO sensor for the DC version…

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/rev-signal-filter-koso-sip-rev-counter-speedometer_KOBA0040

I don't have one of those fancy-schmancy SIP Speedo's, so I wouldn't know.

I actually had one in my cart and took it out since I'm in the throes of VBB parts spending, but I've wanted one for years and just never taken the plunge.

Ah… I was under the impression it would be more… I think it depends on the ignition

The Malossi vespower was 2 sparks per rev… double spark, 1 to clean out the piston.

I think it's different for stock ignitions too

Take the plunge, it's awesome… a pain to setup, but great, especially if you like gadgets

I'll get there eventually. Partly, I can never decide which scoot I want to take the plunge on it with.

And I have a love-hate with gadgets, in part because it's part of my job to be a Gadget Hater.

The instructions mentioned that the vape doesn't need the koso signal filter… just hook up to the CDI wire

Or did I misinterpret? Lol

Oh no…… I think I need it…

But the English doesn't make sense…

That's SIP for you. Their instructions / translations are shit. If I recall someone in here or on FB had the same problem and solved it with the extra sensor…

That would be me.
Hopeless when connected to the brown cable.
Filter goes on to the spark plug wire and makes the signal super smooth.
Has 1000% reliable since then.

Wut?????

Filter needs to clap to the spark plug wire? Like an old skool rev counter with the winding wire? Thought I got rid of that… lol

So the brown wire from the speedo connects to the filter and nothing else?

What's the wiring diagram about then? (Waving a fist at the SIP website…)

Ah damn… I think I remember CM2, rev filter woes

What page was it on the sidecar thread? I'm on page 36 and still not found it

Getting ready to paint, primer on…

Don't judge the table…

If wife wants bougie, she gets bougie…

Still undecided on which one to go for.

I vote 50 special. The ridge on the sides will look good, I think.

I've always been leaning towards the 50…

But it is smaller, so will expose more of the fork, not sure it it balances out the work done by the shortened fork…

The beefier PX mudguard makes the tire look fatter, giving it a more hod rod-Ed look, but no a fan of the angles…

Managed to spray the 2 mudguards and did a dry test install…

After a few hours of persuasion, and a bit of grinding, managed to get both on

For me the 50 won… so will be keeping that… CM has good taste…

Pure style, man. Very nice. The crease in the 50 adds the right visual.

This!

I'm 110% digging the new mudguard. Two thumbs up!

So I've been fine tuning the PX now.

Triple checking there's no leaks, gaskets are good, revs up to 9000rpm without jumping gear… etc…

Engine got a little warm today, riding on a highway, so I'd thought I'd double check the ignition timing and strobe it again… everything was tight and nothing loose but I felt that hitting 26deg @4000rpm might be keeping the engine a little too warm… I never got to 8000rpm riding home, so wanted to drop it a degree…

Anyone with a Vape ignition I recommend you strobe it regardless, the "laser etched marks for accuracy" don't mean anything!

it's nearly 1.5 marks per degree

I don't have a VAPE but had the same experience with timing marks, using mix and match parts.

26 @ 4000 is a little strong, unless the compression is lower or squish is big

Yeah the cylinder head is normal Malossi now, so no low compression head because of raising the cylinder and the keeping the squish.

So will aim for something lower ignition timing.

Maybe 24 at 4000?

I think they changed the curve on the Vape. I recall that it was exactly 1 degree per 1,000 RPM's on the first couple I bought, but according to the doc's, it's more like 1.5 per 1,000 RPM's on the one I just put on my VBB.

So be sure to check it in multiple places to be on the safe side. You've done too much good work here to blow it up over a couple degrees of timing.

108 - are you setting your timing by revving to the max advance - and then using their provided curve for figuring out what you are at at idle?
That'ss my preferred method as well.

I have no idea how anyone sets timing at idle with a 2 stroke thumping away - and an ignition that advances. There just isn't any there, there, to work as a static point.

With new motor - I would get considerably more conservative.
21° @ 4K is = to ~18° at idle (or 5500RPM)
That is usually my target point.
Rarely find I need more timing than that.

I read somewhere once, and my experience validates, that you need to rev to at least 4k RPM's to get an accurate read.

Once you know where you're getting peak power, you can tweak timing to match.

Yeah, with the KyTronik timing light, thank goodness that it seems to be pretty accurate with advance timing. Old timing light disappears after idle… lol

Revving it pretty hard, that's why I could see the position below 2000rpm, how it retards 1.5 deg, then advances… couldn't get past 9000rpm… I think I might have a video of it… but not sure if I managed to capture it.

Without a points/condenser system, I wouldn't know how to get static timing!!

Initially, I had it at around 21deg @4000 (reverse measuring the last 1st mark I noted) it was good, but wanted to see if I could get more thump at 24-25

Slightly sad that the grey 221 PWK has moved onto a new owner…

I just wasn't riding it enough.

But it will always have a place in my heart as a sophomore build, which the only original parts of the bike was the frame and handlebars. Lol

Here's before the 50special mudguard and Vape ignition.

https://youtube.com/shorts/4DL_7suVyMc?si=9FpAJie7_33gZjk-

That's a great-looking P, the 50 guard is much more right than I would have suspected. Hope the new owner appreciates it to it's full extent.

So. What are the funds going towards? Hoping it's not rent!!!

Thank you mate… was a long journey with the P. Glad I got to do everything I wanted with it in the end. Sad to see it go.

But you know it's time when you don't ride it for 2months and you end up choosing other bikes to go out on.

Money will be going into house projects. Unfortunately not bike projects!

Mudguard was actually plastic, which was just easier to deal with grinding and cutting. But shipping is still a killer… things cost so much to get here as you'll probably know.

My thought exactly!

I've developed a dislike of the big chunkiness of the P mudguard. When I finally get around to refreshing my Stella, I think I'm going to try a Sprint mudguard on it. Matching square styling, but much thinner.

Like it…! Can't wait to see!

Just looking at my P here, without cutting holes, I think you could take almost 15mm out of the width. Then a bit more if you changed the shock mount plate to bring it in slightly. Thats in the middle. At the front and rear (mostly front I think) by separating the halves you may be able to narrow it down so that the width is down to the same as the Sprint? Not exactly sure how you'd separate the halves though!
Probably easier in Fibreglass, if you were any good at that.

Or go T5…

Personally, I don't like the gap above the wheel. It's neater, but still not skinny enough to my way of thinking.