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@jcg avatar
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Hooked
2008 GT200L
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What does a full tuneup generally cost in the NYC area. 150 ET4. Thanks
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Having lived in NJ for the past 25 years, you're gonna pay at least a $100-150 hourly rate times the number of hours they claim that they spent performing the service, plus parts. Also depends on whether it's an independent mechanic or a Vespa dealer. There's no definitive total amount you can expect to pay. Will all depend on the business.
JCG wrote:
What does a full tuneup generally cost in the NYC area. 150 ET4. Thanks
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I was going to bring it to Scooter Bodega in Brooklyn. They are always great help on the phone and knowledgeable.
Definitely NOT Motorcycle Mall in Belleville! Don't get me started!!!
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for a general service expect to pay one hour labor at shop rate plus parts, tax, shop supplies and any environmental tax/disposal.

so, say it's $125 then kick in for oil, filter, air filter, maybe a plug, misc. bits (o-rings, crush washers, etc) so there's another close to 50, add in some tax 5, disposal 5, shop supplies 5.

so all in, I'd say you're looking at something between 150~190

if it's any more than the high end of that, I would want to know why.
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Hooked
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cool...thanks
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It depends on what you think a full tuneup is. If you're including belt and rollers, it's going to take more than an hour.
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UTC quote
What about brake fluid flush/refill? Valve adjustment?
Motovista wrote:
It depends on what you think a full tuneup is. If you're including belt and rollers, it's going to take more than an hour.
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Mopedlar wrote:
What about brake fluid flush/refill? Valve adjustment?
no hard and fast rules, I usually give a general with a caveat, if it takes less time I charge you that. if it takes more, that's what you pay.

ever had do drill MC cap screws out because they're rusted in place? adds a minute to the job. same for when a flush and fill becomes a thermostat or a water pump job.

one important thing, especially regarding windscreens, is that if you're ever having work done in the handlebar area (ie fluid flush and fill) either take off your screen or don't grump about an added charge to remove your screen to perform the work.
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Molto Verboso
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Labor costs money. Whether it is $90 or $150 an hour, thats the price someone charges.
"Trust is a earned in teaspoons and lost by the bucket" ( Ted Lasso).
Paying for quality work is worth it.
I will say this, don't go to the Vespa dealership in Brooklyn the service department has had a overhaul of staff the last few years and the current folks aren't going to deliver on trust.
Scooter Bottega is a good place, another place that you can go to is Triborough Motorcycles in Brooklyn on McGuinness Blvd. The owner Mark is a no nonsense guy, doesn't sweet talk/schmooze etc.
In any case as others have said, find out what is involved in a tuneup.
If you wish to do an oil/spark plug/coolant change on your own and can wait till it is warmer then you can come to Brooklyn and I'll be more than happy to lend ya the tools and or help to get you sorted out. I will be doing all of that in May 2022.
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UTC quote
Mopedlar wrote:
What about brake fluid flush/refill? Valve adjustment?
Great question because so many people don't even think about this. I see a lot of bikes in a given week, 1/3rd to 1/2th of them have bad brake fluid. Typically if it's been 2 years, it's time for fresh brake fluid to make sure that you aren't losing braking efficiency.

You can also tell if you're due for new brake fluid by how the lever feels/reacts to squeezing, and visually by looking through the little window to see what the color is. There's also a little special tool you can get that measures the water level inside of brake fluid but it's kind of overkill to be honest.

I go over it in full here if anybody needs to check theirs:

Personally I usually do mine myself less than every two years because I'll usually have an open bottle of DOT-4 either for a customer's bike, or for some new project bike I just picked up, and I don't want to waste it (the fluid is hygroscopic so you don't want to leave it on the shelf open too long). Probably more than necessary but I have the tools so it isn't doing any harm.

If anyone is thinking about doing their first service in a while I would strongly recommend adding a brake flush to your work order.
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IDK how you'd be losing braking efficiency. But whatev. I figure brake fluid is good for 150K miles provided it doesn't get contaminated. Easiest way to contaminate it is to fool with it all the time. In any case, never heard of a "tune up" involving brake *anything* except inspecting pads and rotors for wear.

I would think a spark plug is part of a "tune up". And they should last like 25K+.

Sounds to me like we're talking about an oil change and replace the air filter. No way that's a $200 job. Not really sure how it's not a DIY job. Along with a spark plug.
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mr72 wrote:
IDK how you'd be losing braking efficiency. But whatev. I figure brake fluid is good for 150K miles provided it doesn't get contaminated. Easiest way to contaminate it is to fool with it all the time. In any case, never heard of a "tune up" involving brake *anything* except inspecting pads and rotors for wear.

I would think a spark plug is part of a "tune up". And they should last like 25K+.

Sounds to me like we're talking about an oil change and replace the air filter. No way that's a $200 job. Not really sure how it's not a DIY job. Along with a spark plug.
brake fluid in a bike will absolutely not last 150K. because it is hygroscopic it will inevitably absorb some moisture, thus affecting the braking action in one way or another. also, it is corrosive in nature and over time will have some type of effect on the components.

a plug in a single cylinder machine operating at this level of RPM tend to degenerate more quickly than those in traditional multiple cylinder motors. I can say from experience that if you can get 10~12K out of them you're doing damn well. most of the time they're roached by 6~8K. ever change a plug in a ET or an LX? it's a pain in the ass.

as for not a DIY job, some people don't have the time, the space or the inclination. sure it could be a DIY job if you wanted it to. but more to your point of it "no way being a $200 job" check your maths my dude. the numbers don't lie.

for a LX150/ET4
air filter: 10
oil filter: 10
oil: 14
sump o-ring: 1.85
gear box oil: 5
crush washer: 1.85
spark plug: 10
shop supplies: 5

so there's 57.70 in parts
add in tax 5.77
disposal 3

so you're at 66.47 before labor.

at the mentioned 125/hr there's 191.47 so, close enough to call it 200
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In 50 years, I've never drained clean fluid from a vehicle with corroded brake hydraulics.
I have rarely drained dirty stuff from healthy systems. Fluid is cheap.
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mr72 wrote:
IDK how you'd be losing braking efficiency. But whatev. I figure brake fluid is good for 150K miles provided it doesn't get contaminated. Easiest way to contaminate it is to fool with it all the time. In any case, never heard of a "tune up" involving brake *anything* except inspecting pads and rotors for wear.

I would think a spark plug is part of a "tune up". And they should last like 25K+.

Sounds to me like we're talking about an oil change and replace the air filter. No way that's a $200 job. Not really sure how it's not a DIY job. Along with a spark plug.
A lot of people don't want to become Vespa mechanics just because they bought one.
You can learn to make your own clothes, if you want to. Despite that, and what fabrics cost, you're still going to pay more than a couple hundred bucks for a Larusmiani suit.
@adri avatar
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UTC quote
greasy125 wrote:
brake fluid in a bike will absolutely not last 150K. because it is hygroscopic it will inevitably absorb some moisture, thus affecting the braking action in one way or another. also, it is corrosive in nature and over time will have some type of effect on the components.
Glad a proper tech gave this answer, makes life easier for a handy layman like me.

But just to add to that in layman's terms, the problem is that as your brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air (which is unavoidable because it's hygroscopic as greasy pointed out) the moisture in the brake fluid LOWERS the boiling point.

Braking produces a lot of heat. The reason we use brake fluid in our brake lines is because of brake fluids extremely high capacity for handling heat without boiling. When we add moisture to brake fluid, the brake fluid can't handle the heat as well.

I might have an article on YouMotorcycle that gives specifics but it's 1 am so I'm too lazy to check but essentially you end up:
- needing much more space to come to a stop
- having more likelihood of brake fade (brake system failure under extreme braking)
- reduced feel from brake lever

Some customers won't notice anything wrong because it's a gradual thing over a couple/few years. Then a proper tech, or just a mildly educated rider likes me, points it out to them, they get work done, and usually the reaction is "Wow it stops so well again!"

Check out a bottle of brake fluid, DOT4, you'll find it says right on the bottle to replace every 2 years. If you think it's lying see what your owner's manual says. And if you still think you know better, well, what can I say? Its your life not mine...
⚠️ Last edited by adri on UTC; edited 1 time
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Atypical Canadian
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UTC quote
mr72 wrote:
IDK how you'd be losing braking efficiency. But whatev. I figure brake fluid is good for 150K miles provided it doesn't get contaminated. Easiest way to contaminate it is to fool with it all the time. In any case, never heard of a "tune up" involving brake *anything* except inspecting pads and rotors for wear.
And if you don't want to watch my video, or believe me, greasy, the brake fluid manufacturers, aaaaand piaggio/vespa

Here is robot from Vespa Motorsport saying every two years as well:

Watch around the 40 second mark and live a longer life.
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adri wrote:
And if you don't want to watch my video, or believe me, greasy, the brake fluid manufacturers, aaaaand piaggio/vespa...

Watch around the 40 second mark and live a longer life.
hm, well I guess it's a miracle I have logged over a half a million miles on vehicles with hydraulic brakes I serviced myself, better listen to some kid on YouTube.

In any case, it's not part of a tune-up, regardless of your personal paranoia.
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adri wrote:
But just to add to that in layman's terms, the problem is that as your brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air (which is unavoidable because it's hygroscopic as greasy pointed out) the moisture in the brake fluid raises LOWERS the boiling point.
Just to clarify. Vapor in the brake lines makes the brakes spongy and ineffective.
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It seems that American car manufacturers use DOT3 brake fluid that nearly lasts forever, European vehicle manufacturers use DOT4 that is hygroscopic and needs to be changed every two years, and Harley Davidson uses DOT5 that I know nothing about.

It keeps things interesting.

Cheers,
Bob
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Bob Cowley wrote:
It seems that American car manufacturers use DOT3 brake fluid that nearly lasts forever, European vehicle manufacturers use DOT4 that is hygroscopic and needs to be changed every two years, and Harley Davidson uses DOT5 that I know nothing about.

It keeps things interesting.

Cheers,
Bob
Nyet Comrade. The difference between dot 3 and dot 4 is boiling point. Dot 3 is used in cars because it is cheaper. The brake systems in cars are larger than in motorcycles. Dot 5 was the first synthetic brake fluid, but now it's possible to find Dot 3 and Dot 4 that is synthetic, and a combined Dot 3-4. Dot 3 and Dot 4 are interchangeable, but the lower boiling point of Dot 3 makes it a fairly bad idea in a motorcycle.
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mr72 wrote:
hm, well I guess it's a miracle I have logged over a half a million miles on vehicles with hydraulic brakes I serviced myself, better listen to some kid on YouTube.

In any case, it's not part of a tune-up, regardless of your personal paranoia.
I've read your blog, nearly every single post is a diary of all of your mechanical failings. If that's the person on the internet you want to listen to, over Robot, Greasy, the companies that make the brake fluid, the manufacturer that makes your vehicle, or even myself... God help you buddy ROFL emoticon
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UTC quote
15 Year Maintenance 2007 Burgman 400AN

I have 48,000 miles on my Burgman. The scoot has never failed me on
the road. I simply do not have the mechanical aptitude or desire to work
on it. I leave it up to professionals like Jess, who know what they are doing.

Interestingly, when I review all the service records, the same tech has worked on
my scoot at the dealer where I bought it new. I know, high hourly rate. I
say worth every cent of the labor rate. I added up all the service invoices for
15 years (4 sets of tires, 4 belt replacements, oil, fluids, tune ups, new clutch this year.

Annual cost exactly $441.40 (I think this is a bargain)

Bob Copeland
If you find a good maintenance guy/shop they are worth gold.
If you find a good maintenance guy/shop they are worth gold.
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Bob Copeland wrote:
Annual cost exactly $441.40 (I think this is a bargain)

Bob Copeland
On the internet, you got ripped off if they didn't pay you to let them fix it. But to a reasonable person, that's pretty good.
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Motovista,

I used the Burman 400 almost exclusively for group riding averaging about
3200 miles per riding season (Usually April to October here in Frost Bite Falls)

That average annual amount included 4 sets of tires and belts and oil changes
every 2000 miles. Despite the $119 per hour labor rate - I think this annual
average cost is excellent.

Bob Copeland
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UTC quote
As I used my previous ride (Melody) year-round as my main mode of transportation, I took its maintenance seriously, and left most of it to my dealer, which will also be the case with my upcoming new ride (Thelonica). Not sure where in NJ you're located, but my dealer in Neptune (Indian/Vespa of Monmouth) have a crack team of wrenches on-staff, and unlike the dealer I originally bought Melody from, they actually ride Vespas (as well as bigger iron, because of course), always a good sign.
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