Modern Vespa

Can anyone recommend a product that will bond the tool box door to the hinge and provide a lasting repair? I've used Belzona metal repair putty (which you can see I've started to grind away to get back to a flat surface) in the past which worked for a while but has come away. I don't really want to rivet or weld for obvious reasons so hoping someone can recommend something.

Epoxy or jbweld?

Clean the area with acetone beforehand and you should be good

The putty's tend to provide convenience at the cost of performance.
Meaning - less sheer strength but easier to work and fast to cure.
If it were me - I think I would try a professional grade Loctite epoxy.
A thixotropic one will hold up well to vibration.
I'm currently running around with the inlet pad of my entire motor bonded in with ea9460.
There are also some specialty epoxies made for bonding car panels - so you might call loctite technical services and ask them.

If I had to tackle - I would:
- grease up the stuff I didnt want the epoxy to stick to.
- figure out how to hold the hing in position when the glove box is closed (does it come to a stop?
- apply the epoxy generously - so that it bulges around the edges of the hinge to add grip
- assemble with the glove box closed - suing shims to make sure the glove box is perfectly aligned with the opening.
- try not to touch it for full 24 hour cure.

Suspect it would be as good or better than new - provided surfaces are well prepped and wiped clean with acetone.

Let us know how you tackle.

Thanks for the quick responses and the tips guys. I'll have a look for some epoxy with thixotropic (I learnt something today) properties. I thought I might get it all lined up and then G clamp it from the side while it goes off, but we'll see what's best when I do it.

Thanks again. much appreciated.

Sounds good.
Careful not to squeeze it so tight - all the epoxy is pressed out.
The technical data sheets (TDS) usually actually show the ideal thickness for max strength.

Good point, I may just prop the door up and apply a not-too-heavy weight on the back of the hinge so as to maintain the thickness instead. Thanks.

I'm guessing this would be easier with the box off the bike for sure.

I agree. That way you could be sure the hinge leaf is located properly so the door is lined up when it's closed.

Perhaps, but I found siting it squarely pretty simple when I did it last time. I sat the hinge in the Belzona roughly where it should go, closed the door carefully and sited it in the position I was happy with then very carefully opened it a little and clamped into position to harden. I'll bear it in mind if I hit any snags though so thanks.

If the paint on the outside isn't an issue and could be resprayed, then why not spot weld it like it comes from the factory, or plug weld it.

I'd probably plug weld it. Use a ice pack or frozen piece of copper on the face and some cold wet towels around it to limit paint damage.

Then put a small tasteful sticker over whatever fallout there may be from my hamfisted repair.

I imagine that if you could really clean off both mating surfaces, you should be able to find witness marks to align the hinge leaf. With the door removed. The possibility of the two parts sliding out of position clamping them with adhesive is huge.