Modern Vespa

Thanks man! Yes it was a long wait and hopefully worth it. The paint is actually baked for a couple of hours and is supposed to be very durable! It is a base coat/clear coat paint. I will pick up the main frame and cowls today. I picked up the rest yesterday. T The painter recommended not take the parts and cover them with a sheet or plastic to protect them during assembly as this will inhibit the evaporation of the solvents in the paint. He said he painted an old jeep and the owner covered it up with sheets right after painting. The result was the jeep's paint took on the fabric pattern of the sheet. This pattern was transferred all the way down to the paint layer and could not be buffed out. The paint is supposed to be fully cured in about 30 days. Oh yeah, the painter had a tool he made that he uses to route wiring on Harley's. In about 2 mins he fished it though the frame from the horn cover working back towards the fuel tank area. I connected some small rope to it and pulled it through. So now all I need to do is attach my rope to the new wire harness and pull her through!

Stay tuned!

Hec

Ask him what kind of paint it was when you pick up the rest, because I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one who's curious. Baking it made me immediately think of powdercoating, but it's clearly not that, either.

"baking" or "force drying" is when you crank the heat up in the spray booth after you're done with the paint job. It REALLY runs up the power bill since you turn up the heat to a balmy 140 degrees!

Similar to using IR?

CM

The paint is Cromax XP. The clear is Spies Heckler. The paint booth is heated to 140F and parts are baked for 1-2 hrs.

I brought almost everything home on Sunday. All that is remaining is the left cowl, striped horn cover, glove box, and clutch handle bar. Those parts need clear coats applied. I am very happy with the quality of the work so far. The parts still at the shop were re done because the painter wasn't happy with them! He found a run or speck of dust and wet sanded the blemish out and is re clearing.👍 I'll post pics of everything when I get all parts home!

Hec

Nice. My P200 project stalled in the sanding stage mostly because I've been riding and tinkering with the Stella.

I'm really looking forward to being where you are as putting all those new parts on a freshly repainted frame will feel like building myself a brand new scooter. I hope you enjoy the process. Nothing enhances the experience of driving an old machine like knowing it inside out and being able to fix almost anything anywhere.

All,

For those of you still following, I haven't given up on my Vespa Project! Well, It's been a crazy summer and haven't done anything with my Vespa since I brought everything back from the paint shop. My summer was busy with summer activities on the lake. I even survived 8 weeks without Air Conditioning during the months of July and August! That sucked! Supply chain issues for the replacement reversing valve resulted in waiting 8 weeks for the repair. Good thing my AC is still under warranty.
Now that the weather is turning cooler, and the kids are back in school my focus is back on the Vespa. This weekend is cool and rainy so being outside is out of the question. Perfect weather for getting back on the Vespa!
The first thing I did was grab my tap and die set and clean up all the threads from paint on the body. This included the threaded holes for the tank and seat and around the battery/spare tire area and front brake pedal mount. That took all of 20 mins. So, then I turned to the front fork. I had started on it months ago bad sadly put it aside. I had already installed the bearings and seals on the backing plate and brake hub, so I figured why not finish the front fork up completely I installed new Mallosi brake shoes, new (India ) Gabriel Front Shock, new rubber shock mount bushings, new speedo gear, o-ring, new front brake actuator linkage and all new hardware. The fork is ready for installation now.
Then I went ahead and installed the Leg Shield Vespa Emblem. I used a 2x4 wedged against my hip and hammered the rivets down nice and tight with a ball peen hammer. After that I installed the aluminum leg shield trim. The process is straight forward but it still took me about an hour and a half to install. It was my first time, so I went slow. I think the end result was worth the effort. I'm not a fan of the plastic snap on Leg Shield Trim. I bought an extra Leg Shield Trim just in case I buggered the first one up. Got it done on the first take!

Next will be the floor rails and center stand.

Hec

Juicy! Nice photos and progress!

Do you know part number of this spring?

Roland,

Thanks!
According to Robot at Scooter West, the front brake return spring was only used for the American market. In one of his videos he states if it's missing don't worry. You don't need it. I couldn't find the part number as the parts diagrams I have don't show it. You could easily make one if you wanted to though.

Hec

All,

Question of the day. What type of adhesive do you use for installing a new rubber center floor mat on a freshly painted scoot? If I recall the original center mat was glued down. I assume that was factory adhesive. I am getting ready to install mine and want to make sure I have everything I need ahead of time.

Thanks in advance!

Hec

I use just a small dollop of shoe-goo or rubber cement at the back lip and the front lip of the mat.


...otherwise I just let the floor-mat trim rails hold it all down. For that, get a shot of whisky prepped, so if your screw driver slips during install you have the proper tool on hand to manage.

I don't used any adhesive.
And it was really PITA to mount that f** rubber.
But on the other side I also needed to mark and drill new holes for it and it take lot of time and measuring.
But now it looks good as for me.

Howdy all,

Got some more done today however not as much as I wanted to. I wanted to get the floor rails, center floor mat and center stand installed but was only able to get the center floor mat and left side floor rails installed. I did not use pop rivets but used the proper crimping tool and rivets. The crimping tool even creates the # pattern like the factory did. When I installed the center floor mat, I applied adhesive to the center mat like the factory did. Without the adhesive, the center mat would not lay flat.
I also added the front turn signals. To ensure I had a good ground connection, I used an M-4 bolt and filed the threads down and installed an M-4 whiz nut with the serrated side facing out. This allowed me to remove the paint around the front turn signal ground hole to ensure I have a good ground connection. Worked great! I did have to spin it counter-clockwise to get maximum bite on the paint.

Stay tuned! 👍

Hec

Nice and crisp! Love a clean white P series.

Thanks! Just remember there will be some Green and Red thrown in!

Hec

Howdy all,

Not much to report on my project. I almost have all the floor strips installed. One left to go! This week I'm writing you from Ottertail Minnesota. I'm here to close up my cabin for the winter. Lots of work to be done winterizing but on the plus side I got to ride my 1980 Honda C-70 Passport Resto Mod one more time before I put her away for the winter. Today was a beautiful day.
I'll get back on my Vespa when I return home.



Hec

Tell me more about this restomod. I'm slowly aggregating goodies to rebuild an '81 basket case. Currently waiting on a modified cylinder head to go with the kit I selected.

I'm a sucker for those '80-'81 crankcases.

Ditto, I finally installed the proper mat and stainless rails on my 125 Super, that bit of ShoeGoo helps keep it in place while wresting w/ the screws. But I had no decent whiskey on hand so I cheated w/ Phillips head screws .

Once the mat has had a little time to stretch out, you can go through and replace the screws one at a time if it's still bothering you.

Most of my mods were cosmetic. I ditched the black plastic turn signals for vintage OEM units. They fit in the original locations with only holes needed to be drilled to the handlebar housing and frame. I did have to cut off the two metal posts for the rear turn signals from the tail light bracket. Cut, Grind smooth and then to the chrome plating shop. I replaced the black plastic mirrors with round chrome vintage style ones. I also powder coated the aluminum covers on the engine and the basket.
The bike is 6volt and had the notorious no start electric start. So I added a low amperage 6V relay to switch the ground connection to the OEM starter relay with a solid ground connection on the chassis. I can't believe Honda switches the ground connection on the starter relay instead of the Positive. The OEM starter relay pulls more amps than the contacts on the start switch, neutral safety switch can handle. Oh yeah I upgraded the front drive sprocket to a 17 tooth sprocket. Now she doesn't rev as high cruising at 43mph. It sounded like the engine was going to blow up with the original 14 tooth sprocket! when I got it she had 946 miles on it!

Hec

Update:

Well last week I had a slight set back installing the floor rails. I ordered the floor rubber kit from SIP and the length of rubber on the roll they sent me wasn't enough to do the job. perhaps it shrunk? I am about 2" short! You can see the little 1/4" piece I trimmed off one of the other rails isn't big enough to make up the difference on what I was shorted. Not to mention the roll of rubber came in a slender bag and consequently got squashed or flattened. This resulted in creases on both ends of the once circular roll. I thought that if enough time would pass the creases would go away but they haven't. So I ordered another floor strip rubber roll from Scooter Mercato to finish the job up and possibly replace the sections that have the creases.
Since I can't finish the floor rails I couldn't install the center stand so that is on hold too. I moved on and assembled the horn cast, and both cowls. New Cowl Wiring, P125X emblem, and chrome indicator lights with clear lenses were installed. I ordered replacement rivets for the cowl rubber and actually set them aside in my workshop as I knew I was going to be working on the them. Do you think I could find them? They vanished in the void of the universe somewhere. Anyways I will probably end up using a small machine screw with a couple of washers and a ny-lock nut to secure the cowl rubbers on the end of the cowls. I also thought of using a black plastic automotive trim fastener. The ones that have a flat round head and a Christmas tree barbed shaft. You just shove them in the hole and it holds on. I would push it through a washer installed on the backside. The good thing about the black plastic fastener is it won't rust!
I carefully ground the paint off the little brass pad and Indicator light mounting upper hole on each cowl for the ground contacts.
I tested the indicator lights with a 12V battery and they worked!
I also installed the bag hook on the frame and cleaned up the rear brake lever assembly. This included removing the rear brake switch and giving everything a good cleaning in the ultrasonic cleaner and lubrication with some dielectric grease applied on the switch contacts. I reassembled the switch in the brake assembly so she's ready for install.

That's all for now and stay tuned!

Hec

Update:

Tonight I worked on removing the OEM choke cable ferule that's stuck inside the choke tube. I have new SIP cables to install and need to remove the stuck OEM ferule. Just planning ahead! I have read others posts on how they got their ferrules out of the choke tube. People used drywall screws, punch and hammer, drill, and even a Dremel. One post mentioned using heat which resulted in catching his wiring on fire! All had one thing in common which was the choke ferule was a pain in the ass to get out. The main culprit was rust bonding it in place. What if there was a way to completely submerge the ferule in penetrating oil versus just spraying it and having the penetrating oil leak out? Hmmm?
I positioned the frame so the front is pointed up at an angle. Next I slid a piece of clear tube over the choke tube on the tank side and filled the tube with Liquid Wrench penetrating oil to a level that is just high enough that it didn't spill out the groove the spring clip fits in. I slid the other end of the clear tube out the oil sight glass grommet and secured it with a small clamp. So now the ferrule is completely submerged in Liquid Wrench penetrating oil. My plan is to let it soak for a couple of days and then try to tap it out using a punch or trying a drywall screw, or easy out extractor. Either method should be easier if I can get the Liquid Wrench penetrating oil to break the rust bond between the tube and ferrule. Keep ya posted!

Hec

That's slick, dude. I really hope it works, because getting the stuck ferule out the Usual Ways is BRUTAL.

Chandlerman,

It worked awesome! I actually only soaked the ferule for 22 hrs! I had to give it a try when I got home. I screwed in the sheet rock screw and grabbed the sheet rock screw with a pair of pliers and pulled! Wha-La! It's out! That was too easy everyone! It literally took 30 secs start to finish!

Hec

That's phenomenal. You need to go add this to the "tips n' tricks" thread ASAP.

Gotta love that "Gotcha, you bastard"! feeling when a stuck widget finally breaks free.

I also appreciate how it becomes like brain surgery once it's all covered in a fresh layer of pristine paint.

Howdy all!

Tonight I got a little more done on the scoot! I temporarily installed the cowl latches. The nuts aren't tight because the ground wires connect to them and I don't have the wiring harness in yet. They are finger tight for now. I also installed the two rear turn signal contacts in the frame while I was at it.
Then I also installed the new steering bearing race in the bottom of the fork tube on the frame. I used the SIP fork bearing race tool. With the tool it's a 5 min job. Just insert bearing race on the tool and slip the threaded rod through the fork tube. Then set the upper bushing in the fork tube and tighten the nut. I applied grease in the fork tube and bearing race prior to installation. Having the right tool makes it so easy!
After that, I installed the battery tray. I first cleaned up the mounting hardware in a shot glass of 50/50 white vinegar and water. I placed the shot glass in my ultrasonic cleaner and the hardware cleaned up nice! My parts box is getting emptier and emptier!

Hec

The Honda Passport/cub is how I found my way to Vespas. One of the cool kids had one in highschool. I didn't know what it was and when I described it to a friend in the UK, he pointed out a Vespa. Never had a Passport. I think I would have been disappointed with the small displacement. If they made a 200, I would buy one.

Howdy all!

Today I installed the new wiring harness. The install went really smooth! I have the front turn signal's, rear turn signal contacts and cowl latch grounds connected too. I also wired up the voltage regulator and flasher. I upgraded the original fuse holder in favor of a waterproof spade type fuse holder. These fuses can be found anywhere in a pinch. Originals? Not so much.
So I installed the SIP Rev Counter 2.0 into the handlebar top cover along with the high beam, turn signal, and Neutral indicating lights. That got me to wondering about the CHT sensor cable. What body grommet should I use to route CHT sensor to the cylinder head? I haven't figured out where to mount the black box for the SIP Rev Counter Speedo either. Any suggestions guys?

Hec

I put the CHT cable through with the fuel pipe. And sip box behind the horn.

Thanks Jack! Do you have a picture of your black box mounted? Is it mounted next to the wire junction box on the frame or in the horn cast with the horn?
I forgot to mention that I do have the black box extension cable. My original thought was to mount it under the tank. Just need to find a 12AC connection at the rear for the tach signal. I think I could use the purple wire off the voltage regulator that runs to high/low beam switch for the 12 AC connection and the gray wire to the taillight for the 12V keyed on 12V DC connection.

Hec

US wiring is different from what I'm used to.
No picture but behind the horn is not much space and only fits horizontally. Extension cable will need to be shortened to less than 2'.
Alternatively, next to the regulator works. All the connections you need are there too. under the tank can get messy.

Jack thanks for that! That would definitely be cleaner and easier to access. I think I have a plan now.

Here is a wiring diagram for my scoot.

https://www.scooterhelp.com/electrics/wiring/VNX1T.after.82432.pdf

Hec

I have mine ziptied behind the battery tray and connected directly to the regulator…

Thanks for everyone's help! I fiddled with the black box mounting and it fits nicely up against the frame just above the flasher.

Black Box Connections:
• Terminal on the voltage regulator (marked B+with gray wire) is a 12V DC source and will connect to red wire.

• Terminal on voltage regulator (marked A with purple wire) is a 12V AC source and will connect to the brown wire for Tachometer function.

• Black wire will get an eyelet crimped on and mounted to the ground connection bolt of the voltage regulator.

Please let me know if I'm missing something.

Hec

Update:

In trying to keep up with my plan to accomplish at least one thing every day on my scoot, tonight I routed the last of the SIP Rev Counter 2.0 wire bundles through the frame. There's one for CHT to Speedo. One for black box to Speedo, and one for Fast Flow tap to Speedo for low fuel warning. I think I still have room for the throttle cable on the right side of the fork tube! All wires are routed to the rear of the fork lock barrel too.😎

Hec

Nice job ! Well done.
Your Paint remover set up is very clever, you should have put copyright on that, I just stole it

When I bought same speedo I also bought same fuel tap. Was very disappointed how incorrect it works. When it is still near 6L in tank fuel sensor start to warn about low fuel level.
It drived me crazy because the blinking warning made it almost impossible to read odometers or revolutions normally and I went back to SIP tap without sensor.
There is reserve and there is nice odometers and it is enough for me to avoid staying dry on the roadside