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@hec_in_omaha avatar
UTC

Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
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Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
 
Hooked
@hec_in_omaha avatar
1980 P125X US Spec
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Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
UTC quote
greasy125 wrote:
wow, super sano.

did you chrome the HL ring? what all is new and what all is just cleaned up?

very tidy!
Greasy,

Yes the HL ring was chromed. I didn't care for the look of the OEM black look.
You have a good eye my man! I also chromed the cowl latches, steering lock cover, mud guard crest, mud guard bumper, passenger foot rest, and cowl protectors. Everything else that is metal is shined up! . I did buy new control cables, cable pulleys, and hand grips for the headset. My ultrasonic cleaner really does wonders on cleaning up parts. Take a look at the headlight mount, wiring socket and the control cable bushings. They were run through the cleaner with Simple Green solution (Green kind).



Hec
@chandlerman avatar
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
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Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
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UTC quote
Yeah, simple green solution in an ultrasonic cleaner works almost disturblingly well. I finally replaced my fluid a few weeks ago and there was about a 1/4" layer of greasy sludge at the bottom, but parts were still coming out totally clean somehow, even if the water looked like the Chicago River before they got all environmentally concerned about it.
@roland87 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
'13 LML Star 200, '81 50 Special, '81 P 150 X, '87 PK 50 Nuova, '84 PK 50 S
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Interesting looking headlight.
All other is so nice and fresh. Great work!
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@hec_in_omaha avatar
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Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
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Hooked
@hec_in_omaha avatar
1980 P125X US Spec
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Posts: 394
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UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
Yeah, simple green solution in an ultrasonic cleaner works almost disturblingly well. I finally replaced my fluid a few weeks ago and there was about a 1/4" layer of greasy sludge at the bottom, but parts were still coming out totally clean somehow, even if the water looked like the Chicago River before they got all environmentally concerned about it.
Here is a tip I use when I want to degrease parts in the ultrasonic cleaner and don't want to change out the solution because I have a milder solution in the ultrasonic cleaner, (Simple Green Purple) or a solution of Dawn dish soap water, while working on aluminum parts.
I take a glass canning jar and drop my nasty greasy parts in the jar with simple green solution (Green) or kerosene and then place the jar right in the milder ultrasonic cleaner solution. The sound-waves still travel through the glass jar and clean the parts inside. It's cool to watch the grime coming off the parts in the jar. By doing this I don't cross contaminate my solutions!

Hec
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Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
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UTC quote
Howdy all,

I am to the point of wrapping up the headset wiring and have a question. Where is a good spot to mount the push button switch for my SIP Rev Counter 2.0 Speedo? I was thinking of mounting it on the right switch cover or near the steering lock or even inside the glove box. What do you guys think?

Thanks in advance!

Hec
@safis avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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Ossessionato
@safis avatar
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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UTC quote
I have mine easily accessible for reprogramming (they always lose time after a week or so) and for going through the functions while riding...
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@hec_in_omaha avatar
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Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
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UTC quote
Thanks SaFiS!

Have you ever had any issues with the push button switch's durability? FM has a video of the wires pulling out of his push button switch. Wha? emoticon
Since I have already drilled a hole for my neutral indication light in the headset cover, I am now thinking of adding a push button switch to the opposite side of the top headset cover. This will appeal to my sense of symmetry and OCD! Not to mention that it will be mounted with a nut and not with adhesive tape and no wires will be exposed. I did some testing of my SIP push button switch and it's a simple normally open momentary switch that does not latch. Push the button and the circuit is closed. Release the button and the circuit is open. This push button switch is waterproof, similar in size to the neutral indication light, and appears to be better made than the SIP one.

What do you guys think of this idea?

Hec
This push button switch is very similar in appearance to my neutral indication light!
This push button switch is very similar in appearance to my neutral indication light!
Proposed push button switch location
Proposed push button switch location
Backside
Backside
⚠️ Last edited by Hec In Omaha on UTC; edited 1 time
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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UTC quote
Great idea!

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
@roland87 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
'13 LML Star 200, '81 50 Special, '81 P 150 X, '87 PK 50 Nuova, '84 PK 50 S
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
IMHO better put button as SaFiS or on one of the switches. Much easily accessible while riding. Only need to cut a very little in the switch cover.

Right hand:
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Or left hand.
Or left hand.
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@hec_in_omaha avatar
UTC

Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
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UTC quote
Great pictures Roland!

Do you switch back and forth between settings while riding? If so which ones? Or do you switch settings while stopped? Handlebar mounting makes sense if you are changing settings on the fly.

Hec
@safis avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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@safis avatar
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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UTC quote
Never had issues with the button on mine. A friend though, has already gone through two, but he's a bit of a barbarian ROFL emoticon ROFL emoticon
@roland87 avatar
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Molto Verboso
'13 LML Star 200, '81 50 Special, '81 P 150 X, '87 PK 50 Nuova, '84 PK 50 S
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Molto Verboso
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Hec In Omaha wrote:
Do you switch back and forth between settings while riding? If so which ones? Or do you switch settings while stopped? Handlebar mounting makes sense if you are changing settings on the fly.

Sometimes I use it while riding. And I always use it to reset to 0 one of tripmeters when I put fuel tap to reserve.
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Enthusiast
GL150
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Location: Durham
 
Enthusiast
GL150
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UTC quote
You can get switchgear with an extra button for the SIP speedo for some models, but the one for mine has been out of stock for ages.
@roland87 avatar
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Molto Verboso
'13 LML Star 200, '81 50 Special, '81 P 150 X, '87 PK 50 Nuova, '84 PK 50 S
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Madeups10 wrote:
You can get switchgear with an extra button for the SIP speedo for some models, but the one for mine has been out of stock for ages.
Not for P or PX.
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Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
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UTC quote
Howdy all!

Spent today wiring up the scoot's headset. I had to make a small wire harness for the new led neutral indicator light. I didn't use the purple wire as it's for the old speedo backlight. So I ended putting a piece of heat shrink tubing over the spade connector and stuffed it back inside the wire loom it's inside of.
Going through my disassembly pics has me confused. Specifically the wires to the hi/low and turn signal indicator bulbs. Both bulbs were wired up with black ground wires connected to the + (positive) terminal on the bulb housings . Shouldn't the black ground wires be connected to the terminals marked -(negative)? I remember them working fine before I took the scoot apart, however this doesn't seem right to me.Facepalm emoticon


Hec
Green wire to - (negative)?
Green wire to - (negative)?
White/red wire connected to -(negative)?
White/red wire connected to -(negative)?
Wire leads for led neutral indicator light.  Plug and play!
Wire leads for led neutral indicator light. Plug and play!
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Ossessionato
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UTC quote
Hec In Omaha wrote:
Thanks SaFiS!

Have you ever had any issues with the push button switch's durability? FM has a video of the wires pulling out of his push button switch. Wha? emoticon
Since I have already drilled a hole for my neutral indication light in the headset cover, I am now thinking of adding a push button switch to the opposite side of the top headset cover. This will appeal to my sense of symmetry and OCD! Not to mention that it will be mounted with a nut and not with adhesive tape and no wires will be exposed. I did some testing of my SIP push button switch and it's a simple normally open momentary switch that does not latch. Push the button and the circuit is closed. Release the button and the circuit is open. This push button switch is waterproof, in size to the neutral indication light, and appears to be better made than the SIP one.

What do you guys think of this idea?

Hec
One consideration with switches is how they are connected. On small switches, I often soldered wires directly to the switch thinking it was the most secure way. Turns out, soldered joints can break with vibration. I had this happen with the main power switch on my bus. It would suddenly cut out while driving, then back in again resulting in a huge backfire. It took me a long time to trace the fault to the switch since the wire was still attached, but not always making contact.

Nice progress on your ride.
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Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
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UTC quote
Howdy all!

Today I got more done! It was a good day. I hooked the front brake and I wired up my Euro Tail Light. I don't know why but it had a blue wire that supplied ground to both bulbs. Why they used blue for a ground wire I'll never know. To confuse things more, there is actually a blue wire run to the tail light. It's for the brake light. My first instinct was connect blue to blue. Not! So I made a black wire harness for the bulb grounds. Now black wires for ground makes sense to me. I also got the wiring tucked away in the head set too. So then came the big moment! I hooked up a small moped 12V battery and turned the ignition switch on! No smoke and no blown fuse! Clap emoticon The one thing that didn't work was the turn signal idiot light on the headset. Turned out the flasher crapped out. So I ran to NAPA Auto Parts and picked up a new one for $5.59 US. The new flasher did the trick and the turn signal idiot light works. Horn and tail light work too! Wahoo!
BTW push button switch for speedo is on order.

Hec
Blue ground wire for bulbs? C'mon Piaggio!
Blue ground wire for bulbs? C'mon Piaggio!
Black ground wire for bulbs.  That's better.
Black ground wire for bulbs. That's better.
Ready to install
Ready to install
New NAPA signal flasher
New NAPA signal flasher
Left signal works!
Left signal works!
Right signal works!
Right signal works!
Speedo and turn signal idiot light
Speedo and turn signal idiot light
Tail light works!
Tail light works!
@roland87 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
'13 LML Star 200, '81 50 Special, '81 P 150 X, '87 PK 50 Nuova, '84 PK 50 S
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Lovely.

BTW when my P had indicators I tried several times to get the damn lamp to work and never could Facepalm emoticon
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UTC

Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
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UTC quote
Thanks Roland! I already have all the parameters set in the SIP Rev Counter 2.0. I remember you mentioning the speed sensor pulled out of its metal housing on your scoot. So I gave mine a light tug on the speed cable and my speed sensor popped out too! Facepalm emoticon I examined the speed sensor and metal housing and there is tiniest indication , 1/16"/1.6mm dia. evidence of a glue spot, that a drop of glue was applied. Not Grade A SIP! How's the super glue repair holding up on yours? I am considering using epoxy. For now, I have reinserted the speed sensor in its metal housing. It still works, I even gave the front tire a good spin and registered 1 MPH on it.

Today's project is installing the stator, ignition coil, flywheel, and set the timing. When I bought my scoot it came with a bag of spare parts which included a brand new ignition coil. I was planning on installing it since it was brand new. I should have taken a closer look at it. Facepalm emoticon The ignition coil is for electronic ignition. D'oh! I have a points ignition. So I'll be installing the old coil. Hey it ran when I parked it!

Stay tuned!

Hec
Speed sensor popped out of its metal housing.  Not enough adhesive applied st the factory!  Not grade A SIP!
Speed sensor popped out of its metal housing. Not enough adhesive applied st the factory! Not grade A SIP!
UTC

Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
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Posts: 4472
Location: London UK
 
Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
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UTC quote
Is the engine stock? Although it will run, points are not good with a kit. Most PX points flywheels work with a CDI. I would quickly buy a new stator.
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Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
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UTC quote
Jack221 wrote:
Is the engine stock? Although it will run, points are not good with a kit. Most PX points flywheels work with a CDI. I would quickly buy a new stator.
Jack,

What kind of issues can I expect with my points ignition? The engine is not stock.

Build Specs

Cylinder/Head - VMC Stelvio 177

Clutch - SIP Ultrastrong -https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/clutch-sip-cosa-2-race-ultrastrong-23-teeth-primary-64-teeth_93445300

Crankshaft - Stroked Mazzuchelli
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/long-stroke-crankshaft-mazzucchelli-k2d_45046000?q=Long%20Stroke%20Crankshaft

Gearing
Stock P125-X gears with Malossi Up Gear Kit.
https://www.scooterwest.com/malossi-gear-kit-23-64-for-p125-150cc-m673730.html

Carb-24/24 SI Carb - Drilled Carb Bowl to 2.3mm

Ignition - Stock points

Exhaust - SIP 2.0 Road Sport Style
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/racing-exhaust-sip-road-20-sport-style_24156300?q=SIP%20road%202.0.

Hec
UTC

Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
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Jet Eye Master
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UTC quote
Hec In Omaha wrote:
Jack,

What kind of issues can I expect with my points ignition? The engine is not stock.

Build Specs

Cylinder/Head - VMC Stelvio 177

Clutch - SIP Ultrastrong -https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/clutch-sip-cosa-2-race-ultrastrong-23-teeth-primary-64-teeth_93445300

Crankshaft - Stroked Mazzuchelli
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/long-stroke-crankshaft-mazzucchelli-k2d_45046000?q=Long%20Stroke%20Crankshaft

Gearing
Stock P125-X gears with Malossi Up Gear Kit.
https://www.scooterwest.com/malossi-gear-kit-23-64-for-p125-150cc-m673730.html

Carb-24/24 SI Carb - Drilled Carb Bowl to 2.3mm

Ignition - Stock points

Exhaust - SIP 2.0 Road Sport Style
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/racing-exhaust-sip-road-20-sport-style_24156300?q=SIP%20road%202.0.

Hec
Points will run but not perform the best. The stock electronic stator is good enough but better ignitions are available.
Points don't do timing accuracy very well at higher rpm. Timing has to be set higher to compensate. Spark is less strong in general. Good for simplicity but can't be trusted for higher rpm performance.
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UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
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134 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Lucky
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134 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
Points start to float/bounce by 7,000 RPM's, which is fine for a motor that redlines at 6,000.

Any modern kit is going to be good to at least 7-8k, though, at which time points start to die rapidly.
OP
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Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
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UTC quote
Jack,

Thanks for the info! I appreciate it! If I do go electronic ignition I would need a stator and voltage regulator for my head light correct? I think for now I'll run with my points ignition as it's all new with the exception of the ignition coil. Once I get it running I'll evaluate the ignition system. As long as the scoot can get me to 55-60 MPH smoothly and reliably I'll be happy!

Today I installed the Stator,, ignition coil, rear wiring junction box, gapped the points to 0.4mm and set the timing to 20 degrees BTDC. I have no idea of what the timing should be set at for my set up. My service manual specifies 18 BTDC. Of course this assumes a stock P125X engine. I did make scribe marks on the stator and engine case prior to disassembly . I initially installed the stator based on aligning these scribe marks. The result was timing set to 22 degrees BTDC. That's why I set the timing to 20 degrees BTDC splitting the difference between the service manual and what it was set when I got it. Any suggestions on timing settings?
I set the timing statically using my flashlight continuity tester. The flashlight has two leads that plug into the end. If the leads touch each other it lights up. If I unplug the leads it works just like a flashlight. I connected one lead to the green wire that connects to the ignition coil and the other lead to ground. When you rotate the flywheel CCW from TDC the light gets really bright when the points close. Otherwise it's dimly lit. As soon as it gets bright I stop rotating the flywheel and check the degree wheel to determine the timing.

By the way I have a nice blue spark!

Hec
I know, I know,  Points
I know, I know, Points
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Timing set to 20 degrees BTDC.
Timing set to 20 degrees BTDC.
Statically timed using my flashlight continuity tester.
Statically timed using my flashlight continuity tester.
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
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Location: Nashville

134 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
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134 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
You should set timing to 18 BTC with that top end.

And start shopping for an electronic ignition, because it will get you to points-killing RPM's pretty easily.
UTC

Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
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Location: London UK
 
Jet Eye Master
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UTC quote
Pretty sure the lights side of the stator and regulator is the same on electronic. Just need a US stator. Got to be one on eBay.

On points the timing should be set to 22, on electronic 18. I wouldn't run a shiny new kit on points for too long.
@langolson avatar
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Hooked
Vespa 125 VMA, Vespa SS 180
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@langolson avatar
Vespa 125 VMA, Vespa SS 180
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
UTC quote
Hec,
The cheapest way to get electronic ignition is to buy an electronic ignition pick up and remove your points. It takes a little work, but based on your thread it seems that you're more than capable.
See pics.
Lang
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Remove the points.
Remove the points.
Comparison of US P125 points stator to other electronic stators.  You can see that your stator is ready for an electronic pick up.  You may need to enlarge and thread the hole that holds the pick up.
Comparison of US P125 points stator to other electronic stators. You can see that your stator is ready for an electronic pick up. You may need to enlarge and thread the hole that holds the pick up.
The other issue is that your US P125 flywheel will have it's "trigger" roughly 20 degrees later than it should be.  See the P200 flywheel on the left for the typical location relative to the keyway.  Both keyways are pointing N.
The other issue is that your US P125 flywheel will have it's "trigger" roughly 20 degrees later than it should be. See the P200 flywheel on the left for the typical location relative to the keyway. Both keyways are pointing N.
You will need to lengthen the slots in the stator so that the stator can be rotated another 20 degrees counter clockwise.  This will allow your flywheel to trigger at the proper timing.
You will need to lengthen the slots in the stator so that the stator can be rotated another 20 degrees counter clockwise. This will allow your flywheel to trigger at the proper timing.
Red wire gets re soldered here.
Red wire gets re soldered here.
Green wire on the new pickup gets soldered where the old grey wire from the points went.
Green wire on the new pickup gets soldered where the old grey wire from the points went.
OP
@hec_in_omaha avatar
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Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
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Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
 
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@hec_in_omaha avatar
1980 P125X US Spec
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UTC quote
Langolson wrote:
Hec,
The cheapest way to get electronic ignition is to buy an electronic ignition pick up and remove your points. It takes a little work, but based on your thread it seems that you're more than capable.
See pics.
Lang
Langolson,

Wow! Thank you for that tip and excellent instructions! Have you actually done this mod? If so, how's it holding up? It doesn't look too hard to do either. I like the fact that I wouldn't need to add a voltage regulator to the headlight. So if I use a P200E flywheel I wouldn't need to enlarge the slots on the stator right? I'll keep my eyes open for a good used P125X stator to use for this mod. I'd hate to bugger the one I have now. It's in great shape.

Today I set the ignition timing to 22 degrees BTDC and torqued the flywheel nut to 45 ft-lbs and installed the flywheel nut cover and rubber points access plug.

Since Fatbear was working on his neutral light, I decided to see if my new neutral light worked too. It works and looks great! It's nice and bright too!
I also hit the kick starter, with the spark plug out to see if the headlight starts to glow. It does!
Timing marks made
Timing marks made
This is my circuit tester used to set the timing.
This is my circuit tester used to set the timing.
Neutral light and switch working fine!
Neutral light and switch working fine!
Timing set
Timing set
Headlight glows!
Headlight glows!
⚠️ Last edited by Hec In Omaha on UTC; edited 1 time
@langolson avatar
UTC

Hooked
Vespa 125 VMA, Vespa SS 180
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Posts: 210
Location: Minneapolis, MN
 
Hooked
@langolson avatar
Vespa 125 VMA, Vespa SS 180
Joined: UTC
Posts: 210
Location: Minneapolis, MN
UTC quote
Hec In Omaha wrote:
Have you actually done this mod? If so, how's it holding up? It doesn't look too hard to do either. I like the fact that I wouldn't need to add a voltage regulator to the headlight. So if I use a P200E flywheel I wouldn't need to enlarge the slots on the stator right? I'll keep my eyes open for a good used P125X stator to use for this mod.
Yes, I did this to a `79 P125. Works great. Takes a little effort to get the stator reslotted, otherwise pretty easy. I sold the P125 to a friend. Still running great. P200 flywheel, any PX, or Stella should work without reslotting.
OP
@hec_in_omaha avatar
UTC

Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
Posts: 394
Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
 
Hooked
@hec_in_omaha avatar
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
Posts: 394
Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
UTC quote
V oodoo wrote:
Great idea!

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
Just did it!

Howdy all! Happy New Years! This morning I went ahead and drilled the hole in the top case to mount the switch that controls the SIP Rev Counter 2.0 speedometer.

Before I started drilling, I hooked up the new switch and did some testing. I must say I can scroll through the menus and settings with ease as compared to using the rubber coated SIP switch. The SIP switch takes considerable amount of pressure to actuate it. I also found myself pushing the SIP switch multiple times to get it to actuate once. The new switch is effortless to use even with a gloved hand! With the testing completed, I soldered the SIP switch plug onto the new switch wiring and installed. I ended up shortening the wire due to the shorter distance needed. This cleaned up the wiring under the headset too. I am very pleased on how the switch functions and looks. I also like that no wires are exposed, the switch is metal, waterproof, not mounted with adhesive tape, and compliments the Neutral light I installed!

Time for college football! Hook'em horns!🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Hec
Testing new switch for function
Testing new switch for function
New switch wire harness made.
New switch wire harness made.
Switch harness plugged in.
Switch harness plugged in.
Done
Done
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
X marks the spot to drill
X marks the spot to drill
OP
@hec_in_omaha avatar
UTC

Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
Posts: 394
Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
 
Hooked
@hec_in_omaha avatar
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
Posts: 394
Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
UTC quote
Howdy all,

I am still trying to keep my promise to myself of trying to get something accomplished everyday. No matter how small. Tonight after work I installed the mirrors. Stay tuned.

Hec
Mirrors on!
Mirrors on!
OP
@hec_in_omaha avatar
UTC

Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
Posts: 394
Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
 
Hooked
@hec_in_omaha avatar
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
Posts: 394
Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
UTC quote
Howdy all,

I have working on the headset area lately. Speedo, neutral indication light, and mirrors. This reminded me to address my windscreen install.
When I bought my scoot it had a brand new ginormous Faco windscreen on it. It was removed on the first day. I hated it as it is too tall for my liking. It's been sitting in a corner of my basement ever since. My plan was to cut it down and reinstall it or find something else. I do like the height of qascooter's windscreen.

qascooter how do you like your windscreen? Can you provide me a height of your windscreen measured from the top of the headlight to the top of the windscreen?

I also found Robbie 11's post on his hand made windscreen which looks awesome! However, drilling holes in my headset to mount it is a no-go. Maybe I can modify his design to attach to the mirror brackets instead? I could weld something up for that. Hmmm.

Decisions decisions..

Robbie 11's windscreen https://modernvespa.com/forum/view/post2134775

Hec
Look familiar qascooter?  The height on this windscreen is what I am shooting for.
Look familiar qascooter? The height on this windscreen is what I am shooting for.
Robbie 11's sweet windscreen
Robbie 11's sweet windscreen
My Ginormous FACO windscreen.  I want to cut height down and round off the edges.
My Ginormous FACO windscreen. I want to cut height down and round off the edges.
@qascooter avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4188
Location: Florence, OR
 
Ossessionato
@qascooter avatar
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4188
Location: Florence, OR
UTC quote
I love it! There's Ruby and one of her windscreens!

I've cut down numerous windscreens,, mainly tailored to my 6'3" frame. While sitting on the scooter with the ginormous screen mounted, I look through it about 30 ft to the ground and mark the spot. That's how high I can cut it down to and look over it, which keeps head buffeting to a minimum.

I then find center and use a string and marker to draw the perfect arch that I want on the windscreen. Masking tape both sides, redraw arch, and scroll saw with fine tooth metal blade, scroll saw on pretty high, but no pressure on plexiglass or it'll crack.

After it's cut, sand the edge down and voila, custom windscreen for your height.

8ve actually ditched all mine recently. The low boys cause too much buffeting unless I tuck, and the big one I cut down too low because I cracked it while cutting the first line

I'll get the measurement for you tomorrow|
OP
@hec_in_omaha avatar
UTC

Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
Posts: 394
Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
 
Hooked
@hec_in_omaha avatar
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
Posts: 394
Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
UTC quote
Thanks qascooter! Can't wait to get your windscreen measurement.

In the mean time I went ahead and drew up a windshield template in AutoCad just to mess around. I went for a more rounded eliptical top curvature as compared to most of the squarish ones on the market. Here's what it looks like taped on the ginormous windscreen! I would need to move the top mounts down about 3 inches, or 76.2mm for you party peoples outside the U.S.!

I don't know if I like the rounded top once I added the template on the scoot. Hmm I'll make another template tomorrow and see how that one looks.


Stay tuned!

Hec
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Malossi style
Malossi style
OP
@hec_in_omaha avatar
UTC

Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
Posts: 394
Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
 
Hooked
@hec_in_omaha avatar
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
Posts: 394
Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
UTC quote
Howdy all!

Well my first windshield pattern "A" is a no go. Looks like the Pope's hat to me. So I went back to the drawing board and I came up with windshield pattern "B". It's better but the top corners are too square or not rounded off enough. Once again, back to the drawing board. This time I came up with windshield pattern "C" and used the top of the Legsheild corner radius for the top corners. This looks much better!
I better get outside and bring in the Christmas decorations before they are frozen in place till spring! Don't want to be that guy! ROFL emoticon Snow is on the way! Crying or Very sad emoticon

Hec
Three's a charm?
Three's a charm?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Ginormous!
Ginormous!
@qascooter avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4188
Location: Florence, OR
 
Ossessionato
@qascooter avatar
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4188
Location: Florence, OR
UTC quote
You might want to keep the width as wide as possible down low. It's nice for the hands...
OP
@hec_in_omaha avatar
UTC

Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
Posts: 394
Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
 
Hooked
@hec_in_omaha avatar
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
Posts: 394
Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
UTC quote
qascooter wrote:
You might want to keep the width as wide as possible down low. It's nice for the hands...
The only problem with extra width for your hand is that the mirror stems are resting on the windshield. My mirror adjustment is affected too.

My windshield pattern looks taller than qascooter's I may need to shorten even more!

Hec
⚠️ Last edited by Hec In Omaha on UTC; edited 1 time
@orwell84 avatar
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Joined: UTC
Posts: 2914
Location: northern New York
 
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@orwell84 avatar
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Location: northern New York
UTC quote
Lol. I was also thinking it looked like a pope's hat. Last one is much better.
OP
@hec_in_omaha avatar
UTC

Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
Posts: 394
Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
 
Hooked
@hec_in_omaha avatar
1980 P125X US Spec
Joined: UTC
Posts: 394
Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
UTC quote
Howdy all!

Well I am up to Version "D" for the windshield cut down template. "D" for D-Lux! ROFL emoticon

Here are the changes made from ver. C

• Shortened height 1"
• Narrowed the overall width 2" at the base
• Retained the hand guards but lowered their height so mirror stems have more rotational adjustment.

I think I'm getting close now with the template.

What do you think?

Hec
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@qascooter avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4188
Location: Florence, OR
 
Ossessionato
@qascooter avatar
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4188
Location: Florence, OR
UTC quote
Sorry for the delay Hec.

6 3/4 inches from top of headset to top of windscreen.
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