Modern Vespa

Greasy,

Yes the HL ring was chromed. I didn't care for the look of the OEM black look.
You have a good eye my man! I also chromed the cowl latches, steering lock cover, mud guard crest, mud guard bumper, passenger foot rest, and cowl protectors. Everything else that is metal is shined up! . I did buy new control cables, cable pulleys, and hand grips for the headset. My ultrasonic cleaner really does wonders on cleaning up parts. Take a look at the headlight mount, wiring socket and the control cable bushings. They were run through the cleaner with Simple Green solution (Green kind).



Hec

Yeah, simple green solution in an ultrasonic cleaner works almost disturblingly well. I finally replaced my fluid a few weeks ago and there was about a 1/4" layer of greasy sludge at the bottom, but parts were still coming out totally clean somehow, even if the water looked like the Chicago River before they got all environmentally concerned about it.

Interesting looking headlight.
All other is so nice and fresh. Great work!

Here is a tip I use when I want to degrease parts in the ultrasonic cleaner and don't want to change out the solution because I have a milder solution in the ultrasonic cleaner, (Simple Green Purple) or a solution of Dawn dish soap water, while working on aluminum parts.
I take a glass canning jar and drop my nasty greasy parts in the jar with simple green solution (Green) or kerosene and then place the jar right in the milder ultrasonic cleaner solution. The sound-waves still travel through the glass jar and clean the parts inside. It's cool to watch the grime coming off the parts in the jar. By doing this I don't cross contaminate my solutions!

Hec

Howdy all,

I am to the point of wrapping up the headset wiring and have a question. Where is a good spot to mount the push button switch for my SIP Rev Counter 2.0 Speedo? I was thinking of mounting it on the right switch cover or near the steering lock or even inside the glove box. What do you guys think?

Thanks in advance!

Hec

I have mine easily accessible for reprogramming (they always lose time after a week or so) and for going through the functions while riding...

Thanks SaFiS!

Have you ever had any issues with the push button switch's durability? FM has a video of the wires pulling out of his push button switch.
Since I have already drilled a hole for my neutral indication light in the headset cover, I am now thinking of adding a push button switch to the opposite side of the top headset cover. This will appeal to my sense of symmetry and OCD! Not to mention that it will be mounted with a nut and not with adhesive tape and no wires will be exposed. I did some testing of my SIP push button switch and it's a simple normally open momentary switch that does not latch. Push the button and the circuit is closed. Release the button and the circuit is open. This push button switch is waterproof, similar in size to the neutral indication light, and appears to be better made than the SIP one.

What do you guys think of this idea?

Hec

Great idea!

IMHO better put button as SaFiS or on one of the switches. Much easily accessible while riding. Only need to cut a very little in the switch cover.

Right hand:

Great pictures Roland!

Do you switch back and forth between settings while riding? If so which ones? Or do you switch settings while stopped? Handlebar mounting makes sense if you are changing settings on the fly.

Hec

Never had issues with the button on mine. A friend though, has already gone through two, but he's a bit of a barbarian

Sometimes I use it while riding. And I always use it to reset to 0 one of tripmeters when I put fuel tap to reserve.

You can get switchgear with an extra button for the SIP speedo for some models, but the one for mine has been out of stock for ages.

Not for P or PX.

Howdy all!

Spent today wiring up the scoot's headset. I had to make a small wire harness for the new led neutral indicator light. I didn't use the purple wire as it's for the old speedo backlight. So I ended putting a piece of heat shrink tubing over the spade connector and stuffed it back inside the wire loom it's inside of.
Going through my disassembly pics has me confused. Specifically the wires to the hi/low and turn signal indicator bulbs. Both bulbs were wired up with black ground wires connected to the + (positive) terminal on the bulb housings . Shouldn't the black ground wires be connected to the terminals marked -(negative)? I remember them working fine before I took the scoot apart, however this doesn't seem right to me.


Hec

One consideration with switches is how they are connected. On small switches, I often soldered wires directly to the switch thinking it was the most secure way. Turns out, soldered joints can break with vibration. I had this happen with the main power switch on my bus. It would suddenly cut out while driving, then back in again resulting in a huge backfire. It took me a long time to trace the fault to the switch since the wire was still attached, but not always making contact.

Nice progress on your ride.

Howdy all!

Today I got more done! It was a good day. I hooked the front brake and I wired up my Euro Tail Light. I don't know why but it had a blue wire that supplied ground to both bulbs. Why they used blue for a ground wire I'll never know. To confuse things more, there is actually a blue wire run to the tail light. It's for the brake light. My first instinct was connect blue to blue. Not! So I made a black wire harness for the bulb grounds. Now black wires for ground makes sense to me. I also got the wiring tucked away in the head set too. So then came the big moment! I hooked up a small moped 12V battery and turned the ignition switch on! No smoke and no blown fuse! The one thing that didn't work was the turn signal idiot light on the headset. Turned out the flasher crapped out. So I ran to NAPA Auto Parts and picked up a new one for $5.59 US. The new flasher did the trick and the turn signal idiot light works. Horn and tail light work too! Wahoo!
BTW push button switch for speedo is on order.

Hec

Lovely.

BTW when my P had indicators I tried several times to get the damn lamp to work and never could

Thanks Roland! I already have all the parameters set in the SIP Rev Counter 2.0. I remember you mentioning the speed sensor pulled out of its metal housing on your scoot. So I gave mine a light tug on the speed cable and my speed sensor popped out too! I examined the speed sensor and metal housing and there is tiniest indication , 1/16"/1.6mm dia. evidence of a glue spot, that a drop of glue was applied. Not Grade A SIP! How's the super glue repair holding up on yours? I am considering using epoxy. For now, I have reinserted the speed sensor in its metal housing. It still works, I even gave the front tire a good spin and registered 1 MPH on it.

Today's project is installing the stator, ignition coil, flywheel, and set the timing. When I bought my scoot it came with a bag of spare parts which included a brand new ignition coil. I was planning on installing it since it was brand new. I should have taken a closer look at it. The ignition coil is for electronic ignition. D'oh! I have a points ignition. So I'll be installing the old coil. Hey it ran when I parked it!

Stay tuned!

Hec

Is the engine stock? Although it will run, points are not good with a kit. Most PX points flywheels work with a CDI. I would quickly buy a new stator.

Jack,

What kind of issues can I expect with my points ignition? The engine is not stock.

Build Specs

Cylinder/Head - VMC Stelvio 177

Clutch - SIP Ultrastrong -https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/clutch-sip-cosa-2-race-ultrastrong-23-teeth-primary-64-teeth_93445300

Crankshaft - Stroked Mazzuchelli
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/long-stroke-crankshaft-mazzucchelli-k2d_45046000?q=Long%20Stroke%20Crankshaft

Gearing
Stock P125-X gears with Malossi Up Gear Kit.
https://www.scooterwest.com/malossi-gear-kit-23-64-for-p125-150cc-m673730.html

Carb-24/24 SI Carb - Drilled Carb Bowl to 2.3mm

Ignition - Stock points

Exhaust - SIP 2.0 Road Sport Style
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/racing-exhaust-sip-road-20-sport-style_24156300?q=SIP%20road%202.0.

Hec

Points will run but not perform the best. The stock electronic stator is good enough but better ignitions are available.
Points don't do timing accuracy very well at higher rpm. Timing has to be set higher to compensate. Spark is less strong in general. Good for simplicity but can't be trusted for higher rpm performance.

Points start to float/bounce by 7,000 RPM's, which is fine for a motor that redlines at 6,000.

Any modern kit is going to be good to at least 7-8k, though, at which time points start to die rapidly.

Jack,

Thanks for the info! I appreciate it! If I do go electronic ignition I would need a stator and voltage regulator for my head light correct? I think for now I'll run with my points ignition as it's all new with the exception of the ignition coil. Once I get it running I'll evaluate the ignition system. As long as the scoot can get me to 55-60 MPH smoothly and reliably I'll be happy!

Today I installed the Stator,, ignition coil, rear wiring junction box, gapped the points to 0.4mm and set the timing to 20 degrees BTDC. I have no idea of what the timing should be set at for my set up. My service manual specifies 18 BTDC. Of course this assumes a stock P125X engine. I did make scribe marks on the stator and engine case prior to disassembly . I initially installed the stator based on aligning these scribe marks. The result was timing set to 22 degrees BTDC. That's why I set the timing to 20 degrees BTDC splitting the difference between the service manual and what it was set when I got it. Any suggestions on timing settings?
I set the timing statically using my flashlight continuity tester. The flashlight has two leads that plug into the end. If the leads touch each other it lights up. If I unplug the leads it works just like a flashlight. I connected one lead to the green wire that connects to the ignition coil and the other lead to ground. When you rotate the flywheel CCW from TDC the light gets really bright when the points close. Otherwise it's dimly lit. As soon as it gets bright I stop rotating the flywheel and check the degree wheel to determine the timing.

By the way I have a nice blue spark!

Hec

You should set timing to 18 BTC with that top end.

And start shopping for an electronic ignition, because it will get you to points-killing RPM's pretty easily.

Pretty sure the lights side of the stator and regulator is the same on electronic. Just need a US stator. Got to be one on eBay.

On points the timing should be set to 22, on electronic 18. I wouldn't run a shiny new kit on points for too long.

Hec,
The cheapest way to get electronic ignition is to buy an electronic ignition pick up and remove your points. It takes a little work, but based on your thread it seems that you're more than capable.
See pics.
Lang

Langolson,

Wow! Thank you for that tip and excellent instructions! Have you actually done this mod? If so, how's it holding up? It doesn't look too hard to do either. I like the fact that I wouldn't need to add a voltage regulator to the headlight. So if I use a P200E flywheel I wouldn't need to enlarge the slots on the stator right? I'll keep my eyes open for a good used P125X stator to use for this mod. I'd hate to bugger the one I have now. It's in great shape.

Today I set the ignition timing to 22 degrees BTDC and torqued the flywheel nut to 45 ft-lbs and installed the flywheel nut cover and rubber points access plug.

Since Fatbear was working on his neutral light, I decided to see if my new neutral light worked too. It works and looks great! It's nice and bright too!
I also hit the kick starter, with the spark plug out to see if the headlight starts to glow. It does!

Yes, I did this to a `79 P125. Works great. Takes a little effort to get the stator reslotted, otherwise pretty easy. I sold the P125 to a friend. Still running great. P200 flywheel, any PX, or Stella should work without reslotting.

Just did it!

Howdy all! Happy New Years! This morning I went ahead and drilled the hole in the top case to mount the switch that controls the SIP Rev Counter 2.0 speedometer.

Before I started drilling, I hooked up the new switch and did some testing. I must say I can scroll through the menus and settings with ease as compared to using the rubber coated SIP switch. The SIP switch takes considerable amount of pressure to actuate it. I also found myself pushing the SIP switch multiple times to get it to actuate once. The new switch is effortless to use even with a gloved hand! With the testing completed, I soldered the SIP switch plug onto the new switch wiring and installed. I ended up shortening the wire due to the shorter distance needed. This cleaned up the wiring under the headset too. I am very pleased on how the switch functions and looks. I also like that no wires are exposed, the switch is metal, waterproof, not mounted with adhesive tape, and compliments the Neutral light I installed!

Time for college football! Hook'em horns!🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Hec

Howdy all,

I am still trying to keep my promise to myself of trying to get something accomplished everyday. No matter how small. Tonight after work I installed the mirrors. Stay tuned.

Hec

Howdy all,

I have working on the headset area lately. Speedo, neutral indication light, and mirrors. This reminded me to address my windscreen install.
When I bought my scoot it had a brand new ginormous Faco windscreen on it. It was removed on the first day. I hated it as it is too tall for my liking. It's been sitting in a corner of my basement ever since. My plan was to cut it down and reinstall it or find something else. I do like the height of qascooter's windscreen.

qascooter how do you like your windscreen? Can you provide me a height of your windscreen measured from the top of the headlight to the top of the windscreen?

I also found Robbie 11's post on his hand made windscreen which looks awesome! However, drilling holes in my headset to mount it is a no-go. Maybe I can modify his design to attach to the mirror brackets instead? I could weld something up for that. Hmmm.

Decisions decisions..

Robbie 11's windscreen https://modernvespa.com/forum/view/post2134775

Hec

I love it! There's Ruby and one of her windscreens!

I've cut down numerous windscreens,, mainly tailored to my 6'3" frame. While sitting on the scooter with the ginormous screen mounted, I look through it about 30 ft to the ground and mark the spot. That's how high I can cut it down to and look over it, which keeps head buffeting to a minimum.

I then find center and use a string and marker to draw the perfect arch that I want on the windscreen. Masking tape both sides, redraw arch, and scroll saw with fine tooth metal blade, scroll saw on pretty high, but no pressure on plexiglass or it'll crack.

After it's cut, sand the edge down and voila, custom windscreen for your height.

8ve actually ditched all mine recently. The low boys cause too much buffeting unless I tuck, and the big one I cut down too low because I cracked it while cutting the first line

I'll get the measurement for you tomorrow|

Thanks qascooter! Can't wait to get your windscreen measurement.

In the mean time I went ahead and drew up a windshield template in AutoCad just to mess around. I went for a more rounded eliptical top curvature as compared to most of the squarish ones on the market. Here's what it looks like taped on the ginormous windscreen! I would need to move the top mounts down about 3 inches, or 76.2mm for you party peoples outside the U.S.!

I don't know if I like the rounded top once I added the template on the scoot. Hmm I'll make another template tomorrow and see how that one looks.


Stay tuned!

Hec

Howdy all!

Well my first windshield pattern "A" is a no go. Looks like the Pope's hat to me. So I went back to the drawing board and I came up with windshield pattern "B". It's better but the top corners are too square or not rounded off enough. Once again, back to the drawing board. This time I came up with windshield pattern "C" and used the top of the Legsheild corner radius for the top corners. This looks much better!
I better get outside and bring in the Christmas decorations before they are frozen in place till spring! Don't want to be that guy! Snow is on the way!

Hec

You might want to keep the width as wide as possible down low. It's nice for the hands...

The only problem with extra width for your hand is that the mirror stems are resting on the windshield. My mirror adjustment is affected too.

My windshield pattern looks taller than qascooter's I may need to shorten even more!

Hec

Lol. I was also thinking it looked like a pope's hat. Last one is much better.

Howdy all!

Well I am up to Version "D" for the windshield cut down template. "D" for D-Lux!

Here are the changes made from ver. C

• Shortened height 1"
• Narrowed the overall width 2" at the base
• Retained the hand guards but lowered their height so mirror stems have more rotational adjustment.

I think I'm getting close now with the template.

What do you think?

Hec

Sorry for the delay Hec.

6 3/4 inches from top of headset to top of windscreen.