Modern Vespa

The one they sent me came with four adapters. Made my own Lusso axle adapter before realizing it came with one

Needs thread cleaning, and maybe some truing love on the adapters. It's a solid enough tool to build around, should you want to make other tools based on its function as a puller/pusher.

Howdy All,

Here is an update on my moist maker. I have been busy welding, repairing, straightening and dry fitting everything prior to one more final disassembly in preparation for sand blasting. I did add a Euro Taillight and welded up the OEM holes for the USA Spec Taillight. I also welded up the holes in the front fender where the OEM USA Spec reflectors were mounted. The wire harness has been removed too.
So the plan is to haul the steel parts to the sandblaster on Monday. I considered CO2 blasting but it's over 2 times more expensive. Some chrome parts will be chrome plated next week too. Namely the cowl guards, cowl guard mount, rear cowl guard mount, front fender crest, and a few other bits and pieces.
Oh yeah I should be picking up the fork, brake drums, front hub, Battery Tray, Rear Brake Backing Plate and rims from the powder coating guy this week.
This week I received my tire order from Scooter West. Three new Michelin S83's with tubes and mounting hardware. If you bought at least two tires before March 7 you got a $30 Visa Gift Card from Michelin! Score!

Here are some pics.

Enjoy!

So after much consideration and consultation with Greasy125 , and reading the recommendations of Ray8 and others, I have gone ahead and ordered a VMC 177 Stelvio Kit for my engine build. Finding one was tough as all the usual suppliers are out of stock! I found the Stelvio Kit from an Ebay seller in Italy. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
In addition I also ordered the Malossi 23/64 Gear Kit. I will pick that up this week in person from Scooter West. My family and I will be in San Diego for Spring Break and I will be dropping into Scooter West. Can't wait to check them out! I am a firm subscriber to the phrase "Why is there never enough time and money to do it right the first time, but there's always enough time and money to do it right the second time?"

So I won't be using my P150X Cylinder, New Head ,New Piston, and New Rings now. If anyone is interested in the 150 CC set up let me know. I'll make ya a Hec of a deal!

Hec

Good choice. I have that on my Allstate with a Polini box and it pulls like a rhino.

Howdy All,

Need some help sourcing replacement passenger foot peg rubber covers. The Originals are pretty beat up. They have an inside diameter of 19mm and a length of 102mm. I can't seem to find anything that will work as a replacement.

Thoughts?

Hec

How about a set of hand grips?

Thanks. I have looked at hand grips but the inside diameter is too big. I have looked at motorcycle foot peg covers and their are the same. I even looked at mini bike hand grips but their too short.

Look for some 19mm ID radiator hose. It won't be the prettiest, but it'll get the job done and you can't beat the price.

You could get some large od heat shrink tubing, shrink it on, then slip.grips over top. Get tubing with glue in it it so it won't move around. Grips usually come in two diameters, get the smaller one.

https://www.steadygarage.com/store/vans-fcult-motorcycle-waffle-grips-7-8-150mm

Great idea! 7/8" is 22.2 mm. The peg is 19mm OD. Heat shrink will make up the difference!

Thanks!

Hec

I think those are Vigano. Still available.

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/rubber-vigano-crash-bar-foot-peg_25062300

HJO,

Thanks for the recommendation. I will be definitely be looking into those!


Update:

I have received all my body parts back from Sandblasting. I will hand sand everything with 180 grit then follow up with 220 Grit, then 280 grit. Then I will turn the parts over to the painter. Doing this myself will save some cash on the paint job! I will also knock out the bearing race at the bottom of the fork tube prior to painting. Still waiting on my powder coated parts. Should have them back this week.

Two weeks ago me, my wife and kids took a trip to San Diego for spring break. While I was there I dropped in on Scooter West! What a cool place! Kevin gave me the grand tour to include the service dept. I even got to meet Robot!. Everyone there was so nice! While I was there I picked up some parts for my engine build. I purchased a Mallossi Up gear kit and a T5 fourth gear. I now have all the parts I need to rebuild the engine except for an assortment of Main jets 120-130.

Engine Components Acquired so far:
* VMC Stelvio 177 CC Kit. Aluminum Cylinder.
* Mazzuchelli Race Cut crank 60 mm stroke
* New SI 24 mm carb
* New Bearings and seals
* Mallossi Up gear kit
* T5 fourth gear
* New clutch plates and clutch bushing
* New motor mount bushings
*2.5 mm gear set shim.
*SIP fast flow tap
* New SIP gasket set
* SIP Road 2.0 "Sport Style" Exhaust

I will start engine disassembly as soon as I get the body parts in the paint shop!



Hec


Getting some free stickers!

Robot!

Do you have an EFL transmission? Because the 36 tooth T5 4th gear only fits the EFL transmission. If you have a non-EFL transmission, then you need to search out a 36 tooth 4th gear that came in the P125's.

I once called ScooterWest looking for a part. The guy who answered sounded like Robot and before I could stop myself, I asked, Is THIS Robot? I was embarrassed, because I sounded like an 11 year old girl at some boy band concert. His videos are excellent.

According to Scooter West the T5 fourth gear mod is used all the time on P125X's and even a couple of guys at Scooter West have this mod on their Sprint Veloce's. They say it brings 3rd and 4th gears closer together. By the way the receipt says VNX2 shorter 4th gear.

https://www.scooterwest.com/4th-gear-vnx2-performance-shorter-4th-gear-for-p200e-77-83-36-teeth-178124.html

The T5 fourth gear has 44 teeth as compared to the 36 teeth of the P125X. Fourth gear. I hope my counting is right!🤪 The T5 fourth gear is physically thicker too. I installed it and it rides perfectly on the wear marks of the original P125X gear. I stacked both gears on top of each other and they are identical in terms of their inner bore.
My transmission is a stock 1980 P125X Transmission.

Here are some pics.

Hec

The T5 came with the 36 EFL never with a 44. The 44 came with the 1st gen P125X where they used the Sprint gearbox (57/54/48/44 - 12/16/20/25) and a 22/67 primary. They later changed it to (58/42/38/36 - 12/13/17/21). There are two versions of the later boxes, pre-EFL and EFL. You can't mix different "gen" gear cogs. There's lots of misinformation on the net. From the link you posted, if you have a pre-EFL box, they gave you the correct gear cog. The T5 (VNX5T) is the one below…

https://www.scooterwest.com/4th-gear-vnx5-vnr1-2-vnx2-36-teeth-2232295.html

Thanks for the great explanation! Looks like I'm set up with the right part! Scooter West knows their stuff!

Hec

Great write-up! I just restored my P125X as well! Still working on paint touch up and will likely look more into the transmission mod you did. I appreciate the pictures and details information.

Morthos,

Nice Scoot!

Update,

So the "Rona-Virus" got me. I have been under the weather for about 10 days. I am back now and motivated again to continue on with the moist maker. This week I started sanding all my sandblasted body panels and frame with 150 Grit Sand Paper followed by 220 Grit Sand Paper. The painter said I could save money by sanding myself. So I'm all over that! All parts should be in the paint shop by the end of next week! Still need to pick up my powder coating parts. I need to drop by and see if they are done!

So here is a question for you guys. Do you prefer the the plastic chrome leg shield trim or the original type crimp on trim? At this point I am leaning on the aluminum crimp on trim but I'm worried about screwing it up. Any tips on installing the crimp on trim. I know I'm at least a month before I'll be ready to install the trim but I like to plan ahead.

Hec

Pics? Some of us need to mourn the demise of the pristine blue marine so we can move on with encouraging you with your project.

The crimp on original trim. 100%

I did that on a P. Thread here.
Gray p200 Rebirth

It's a pain, but the difference is worth it.

On the original trim, some takeaways:

- definitely mask around it, otherwise the tool will touch the paint.
- fit it, crimp it in places, then roll over. Like a million times.
- It doesn't roll on, but the roller smooths it out.
- The higher quality tool from SIP is worth it. I got a cheap one from ebay, it was crappy

This video helped.

hjo,

Your P restoration turned out great! I think you have convinced me to pull the trigger on the SIP trim tool and aluminum leg shield trim. I have watched the video you posted a bunch of times too. I love that guys channel! Man I wish I could speak Italian. I watch his videos with my phone right up to the TV speaker while using the Apple Translate app. The app works pretty good but every now and then you get a goofy translation that makes you laugh out loud! I watched one video on installing the axle shaft in a PX engine case and the app said "Now carefully put the shaft in Andria's hole." What in the wild wild world of sports? I played it back several times and got the same translation. I laughed my ass off! On the plus side, I have learned what a forcella, montaggio, and cuscinetti mean!

Hec

Thanks!

I was really happy with the trim.

And this detail. There's a place called Second Avenue Scooters that makes repro VIN stickers.

https://2ndavenuescooters.com/

hjo,

Thanks for the heads up on reproduction VIN Stickers. I just sand blasted mine off! I do have pics of the old ones and have been looking hi and lo for repro's. Now I have a source!

Thanks again!

Hec

98 octane. Holy cow!

That's RON, as used in Europe. Translates to about 93 AKI, as used in the US.

Do think that's a misprint on the Repro? Here is my original. It's a little blurry but it reads 79 Octane.

Hec

Might be a different year.

Those aren't exact. They're made of plastic, not aluminum. but they're very close, and a detail that always gets lost with paint.

Here are some pics of my progress. Sanded right cowl, glove box, and front fender. Still need to sand left cowl, gas tank, and frame. I forgot how much I hate sanding by hand! Hand sanding is the only way to get in all those tight spaces though!
Got my rims back from powder coating so I mounted the new tubes and tires. Note that the rim studs have powder coat on the ends! Details details. Finishing up my Dos XX break so back to sanding👍.


One Cowl sanded.



Fender



Glove Box





Rim stud ends powder coated!

Update

I worked some more on my 1980 P125X. I started sanding the frame. I spent 6 hrs on it today and got about 60% done. Still need to get the fender well and fork tube with 150 grit sand paper. Then hit the whole thing again with 220 grit sand paper. I also knocked out the lower fork tube bearing race. All fork bearings and races are being replaced.

It's getting closer!

Enjoy!

Hec


Tools needed to remove lower fork tube bearing race.

Tool inserted into fork tube

Tool resting on bearing race

2 smacks on the tool and out she came!

Legshield half sanded

Hand sanding stinks

Half sanded

Did you have it blasted, then sand, or did you sand it all from the get-go?

I can't recall, but it's looking great either way!

Thanks Chandlerman,

Yup all metal was sandblasted. If you look closely you can see the light pitting in the metal that the sandblasting produced. My painter wants me to sand it all down vs trying to fill in the pitting with hi build primer etc. This ensures that body lines stay crisp. The pitting sands out easily but it does take time. The glove box door didn't get sandblasted as the sandblaster was afraid of it getting heated up and getting distorted. I have watched the youtube videos of the Asian guys refinishing Vespa's and some use a Torch to remove all the paint. I wonder how much metal warping that caused? That is probably why they coat the entire thing with body filler!

Hec

I suspected that was sandblasting, but have never had it done, so didn't know for sure. I think I'll stick with my masochistic hand-stripping, at least for a while longer.

And I think it was Ray8 who said he uses a blasting/powder coater/paint shop who just use a propane torch like for sealing roofs to bake the paint before they even start on it.

I'd be interested in experimenting a little bit if that would speed the removal process. I know my heat gun helped a lot on the VBB, but that was a PITA in its own right.

What would you like people to say other than your sand blaster did on okay job removing the Piaggio paint which is a crying shame.

Hec, looking good. I am at the same stage - sanding. I am using lots of tools and home made make shift tools.

Have you thought about seam sealer? I am going to add the seam sealer after the first epoxy primer but not sure which seams get it and which don't! Also, the method of applying it with tape guides seems the best from my research.

Chatis,

Thanks man!
The only seam sealer I saw was under the fuel tank and on the bottom of the frame by the rear cross member support. Mine is yellow and its in good shape so I did not disturb it. I originally contemplated acid stripping the paint off but was advised against it by Scooter West as the acid would destroy the seam sealer. So sandblasting it is!

Hec

I have seen pics of scooters with all the seams sealed or at least along the tunnel seems. I usually sandwich seam sealer between layers of epoxy primer. Whatever is in good shape from the factory should be left in place. Probably made of stuff that can't be used anymore. Lead made paint durable and flow like nothing else. Asbestos was an awesome insulator, especially the paste stuff you could schmooze around pipe elbows.

Long time no post. Summer is here and boating, Jetskiing has taken up my time. So no progress on my scoot.😩
However, this week my SIP order from Dec 2021 arrived which included my crankshaft installation tool. That didn't take long did it?😤. Almost done sanding out the sandblasted frame and parts. I hope to get it in for paint in the next month or so. Hard to sand the frame when the beers are cold and the sun is out!

Hec[img][/img]


Forth of July off the boat!

I am back on my moist maker project! The P is 95% ready for paint.
This weekend I worked on stripping the paint off the aluminum clutch twist tube and aluminum handle bar housing. I used a spray on paint stripper that worked great on the clutch twist tube. I was hesitant to hit it with sandpaper for fear of damaging the stamped numbers. The paint stripper bubbled up the paint in about 12 hours and I scraped it off with a plastic scraper. So no damage to the aluminum. The aluminum handle bar housing was spayed with the paint stripper this morning. I noticed that the paint was applied directly on bare metal in some areas and over a thick layer or primer/sealer in others. On the same part!
I also managed to get the little key switch wiring diagram off the upper plastic handle bar housing so I can glue it back on after painting. I used a heat gun and a pair of tweezers to lift the decal off without damaging it. I did the same for the Piaggio emblem on the horn casting.

Question for everyone: Did the P series come factory with painted handle bar twist tube ends? I noticed the end of the clutch twist grip was painted blue with the rubber handle bar grip glued to the paint. The throttle twist grip tube had no paint and the rubber handle bar grip was glued to the bare metal end. Should I have the painter paint the both ends or duplicate what I had? Seems odd to me that only one twist tube was painted? I want to give the painter explicit instructions of what needs painting and what needs to be masked off. I don't want him painting the twist tube bosses that the twist tubes slide in etc...

Thanks in advance!


Clutch Twist Tube

Switch Cavity

Paint Stripper

Key Switch Wiring Decal