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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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autojack wrote:
I hate to say this, but I bought a SIP loom for my US Rally 200 with indicators, and ended up having to modify it extensively to match the electronics in the bike. I had thought it would just be minor mods to get the indicators hooked up. But in fact the CDI, horn, and even brake pedal switch wiring were all different between the original harness and the SIP one. In hindsight I felt I would have been better off just making up a whole loom from scratch to match the original.

This may not be an issue for you if you are replacing other electrical components or you have already mapped out the connections and you know you're good. Just a heads up...
I really appreciate this thread. I found it when doing some research, and was about to buy the same loom.

The SIP loom seems fine, as long as you configure it exactly as it's designed, I guess. Using the same switches and such.

It seemed like a big pain to make it adapt to a 1974 American bike, with all the weird/unique things.

I'm just going to make one from scratch instead.
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'76 Vespa Rally 200
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There's a screw in the headset for that ground. If memory serves, it's one of the screws that also holds the nylon cable routing piece.
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Cdevillasante wrote:
Well I did it, re routed the loom in front of the steering lock. What is this black ground for and where does it go ?
Also I am putting in all new components and the euro style blinkers on the handlebars.
Mine was under a screw where the throttle tube stop is. But I'm on a VNA so yours won't be the same but it should go somewhere on the stem of the headset. The stem being the part that slides onto the fork tube. That chunk of metal. Should be able to attach it to that
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Cables in and floor mat started but I torqued my back and have to sit out for a bit. So I will order parts. Next up I will do the front forks/ hub and brakes and the rear hub and brakes.
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Why do my pics keep uploading in portrait direction?
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bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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Happens to me too. Try cropping them on your phone before posting.
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Vinegar and water really do help clean up aluminum! The rear hub was nasty before elbow grease. Here are a couple progress shots. Got the floor Matt and rails in cables and harness in. Front fork is next, it's built so gonna slide in
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Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
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Looking good!
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Thx man! Slow but steady! So next thing is I am working on the front fork. I put in a new shock (wrestled it in) and I am at stuck on the spring. I did a spring for an Allstate but this seems different. I took off the nut holding the spring and removed the hub and the brakes. Do I remove the bolt which holds the breaks and the swing arm?
If so do I take out that 10mm bolt on the other side?
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Sorry to say, if I remember right you need to do this in the reverse order. Put the spring on first while everything is loose, then the shock. When I did it, I had the fork already in the bike. I attached the shock at the top, and then had a friend push the front end down repeatedly while I tried to pop the bottom bolt through. That worked better than trying to slowly compress and hold the spring.
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Whwn I did the allstate I used straps to compress the spring. I found this, Is it applicable to the rally as well
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Well he's doing the spring first as well. I think he has the same problem, figuring out how to compress it enough to line everything up. The spring wants to resist compression, so you either need to tension it manually with straps or something, or you need to force it down all at once like I did. I couldn't get straps or zip ties to work, and I couldn't lever it down with anything either. Maybe if I'd had a larger pry bar.

It doesn't look like taking off the middle pivot bolt would help that much. I've only done this once so I can only tell you what worked for me - spring first.
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Molto Verboso
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oh yeah. Pain.

No need to take off the pivot.

install the spring first. you can kind of screw down the top mount a bit, so it's easier to fit through. then move it back out.

Should be able to do this with a channel lock, and something that protects the threads from getting chewed.

The shock. attach the bottom part first. It has a key/slot that fits in the swing arm.

Put the hub back on (not super tight), and you can usually get it into place just pushing on it.
Moving this it farther makes it easier to get the top bolt in.
Moving this it farther makes it easier to get the top bolt in.
1. Then move the top shock mount back. 
2. attach the bottom bolt first.
1. Then move the top shock mount back. 2. attach the bottom bolt first.
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thanks! I will try it. Was removing the spring difficult? mine doesn't budge. (maybe after I remove the damper)
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Totally worked when I did it in the order you laid out! Thx.
Your fork looks so good. Is it new?
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Molto Verboso
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Oh good!

My fork is original, just all repainted.
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I f'n did it! Thx for the tips !
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Cdevillasante wrote:
I f'n did it! Thx for the tips !
Yeah boi! That's a tough one, nice job.
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Molto Verboso
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Awesome! That will ride a lot better!
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UTC quote
this is a bit un related but my kickstart lever on my p200 just slipped a spline and the bolt underneath is stripped to almost round..... any suggestions how to get it off?
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79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
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Vice grips?
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tried, made it worse Facepalm emoticon
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I've sometimes had luck with wrapping a fastener with tape, to get a better grip on it with a tool. Also, I'd hit it with a penetrating oil just to make sure it's as easy as possible to break free.

Failing that, a grinder or Dremel with a cutoff wheel.
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Thanks yea I put some liquid wrench. Hoping it gets in there
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Got it! It was a weird soft brass nut that got all mangled by the visegrips. It was on there when I bought it and I knew it would give me trouble someday…..my kickstart lever was shot inside too but the shaft is perfect so that's a win
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Making good progress on the rally but there's a rub….. I mounted the front fork and the fender rubs the leg sheild when turning right. It's not a lot but enough to stop the turn. Left is fine. Any ideas why or what to do? Maybe modify the fender?
Oh and I changed the lock thanks scooterhelp! http://www.scooterhelp.com/tips/body/70s.locks.html
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
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UTC quote
Cdevillasante wrote:
Making good progress on the rally but there's a rub….. I mounted the front fork and the fender rubs the leg sheild when turning right. It's not a lot but enough to stop the turn. Left is fine. Any ideas why or what to do? Maybe modify the fender?
Oh noes!

Something is bent, most likely the fork, I hate to have to tell you.

Make sure the two sections are both parallel to each other and that viewed front-on, it's all straight and in line. The easiest way to do it is to take some good photos from each angle and then draw lines on it on the computer.
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Noooooo! Is a bent fork fixable? Or do I need a new fork?
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Looks close to me?
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'76 Vespa Rally 200
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UTC quote
I know you don't need me to tell you how to use the search function, but I was curious myself...

Front fork / fender installed right? suggests among other things you may have a bearing or spacer wrong/missing/etc. If you think about it, basically getting the fork to sit slightly lower in the tube might be all you need.

(Full disclosure: I have never dropped the fork in a Vespa.)
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UTC quote
Thanks for that. I was looking at a couple others but didn't see that one. I do have an extra spacer… might be worth a try. But I will do lots more research too
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Could be a bent fork. Did it sit correctly before?

Could be that something isn't seated right.

There should be some space there.
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Is there a bearing cup on that fork? I may just not be seeing it in the pics.
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
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UTC quote
definitely no dust shield or bearing cup on that photo. It's pretty obvious if you put a fork in without them (or even the bearings).

You get a lot worse misalignment that that if you stick a bare fork in the frame, though.

OP will have to let us know current state to be sure, though.
OP
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yes that was before assembling everything
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Cdevillasante wrote:
yes that was before assembling everything
Ok, then I am going to go with you need to shim it.
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UTC quote
How much clearance should be between horn mount and fender? Maybe someone with same model can give you an idea what that clearance should be. So you have an idea of how much you need.

What about how fender mounts? Does it have front and back mounts? Could you put a washer under a front mount to give it a bit more angle to help with clearance?

Did you do any metal work to fender? Could you have bent fender so it rubs in one direction?
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UTC quote
Quote:
What about how fender mounts? Does it have front and back mounts? Could you put a washer under a front mount to give it a bit more angle to help with clearance?
I cant get anything under the dust cover because it would be super hard to move that at this point, the inner track for the lower bearing was a bitch to get on and is tight tight tight.

I am attaching the parts diagram that I am following[/quote]

I will take it out again later today and look at the fender, also check that all parts are there (using the Rally 200 parts book) then install it again. I haven't done anything to the fender but I suspect it may be out of shape a bit.....heres hoping I just installed it wrong the first time, but I did look at new forks....
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'76 Vespa Rally 200
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UTC quote
Let me know if some pictures from my 76 Rally would help.
OP
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1979 P200, 1960 Lambretta s2, 1975 Rally 200
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UTC quote
I would love some pics! Thx man
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