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Yea cause I am have a mew bolt anyway. It was pretty easy to cut out
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My tubes inside the swing arm are sticking out about like 5 mm too much on one side they aren't playing nice and I can't get them in any farther even though there is a good gap in the center. I tried heating the swing arm case and rubber mallet with minimal results. Any suggestions? I am trying to mount the engine
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Cdevillasante wrote:
My tubes inside the swing arm are sticking out about like 5 mm too much on one side they aren't playing nice and I can't get them in any farther even though there is a good gap in the center. I tried heating the swing arm case and rubber mallet with minimal results. Any suggestions? I am trying to mount the engine
I use a piece of all thread through center, fender washers on both sides, nuts on both sides, deep well socket and 1/4" electric impact and tighten everything until it's pulled into place.

I find Clause mounts easier also.

https://www.claussstudios.com/store/p538/Vespa_PX200E__Polyurethane_Engine_Mounts.html
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Thanks I will try that! Yay all hope is not lost ( one of those days )
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Never tried the clauss PU mounts, but word among those I know who've used them is that they vIbRaTe like hell.

You can use tire mounting paste the next time you try to install silent blocks: it helps things slide.
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Frank N. Stein wrote:
Never tried the clauss PU mounts, but word among those I know who've used them is that they vIbRaTe like hell.

You can use tire mounting paste the next time you try to install silent blocks: it helps things slide.
Clauss mounts really dont vibrate like that. IMHO. They arent solid & hard, like some of the race mounts. Slightly firmer than stock, but with extra reinforcement on the outer edge. They are much easier to install, compared to stock rubber.
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The engine, she is in! And the t5 carb box fits nicely. not sure what would be good to do next, cables? Electronics?
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That's awesome!
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Maybe timing and button up the motor with an exhaust? Then you can have the big parts handled- just will have to connect, connect and adjust cables.
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Cdevillasante wrote:
The engine, she is in! And the t5 carb box fits nicely. not sure what would be good to do next, cables? Electronics?
Center stand boots. Yellow preferred
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Yellow boots indeed! I am doing research on the timing from older posts and they all start after finding tdc and btdc, but how do you find it? and tdc = top dead center, btdc=?
looks like its study time

Chandlerman this looks good Finding TDC with an Inclinometer
chandlerman wrote:
So far as I know, credit for the idea of using an inclinometer goes to Scooter Republic, the Buzzwangle inventors.

Now a decent inclinometer is pretty cheap, like $25 on Amazon. But the CNC'ed attachment tool they provide, along with the piston stop, which is redundant for me, made it hard to justify the cost.

What I did instead is tape a neodymium magnet to the back of my inclinometer, stick that to the flywheel, and do it that way.

For whatever reason, I decided to work this out to deal with checking the Sprint's timing over the weekend and once I sorted it, the entire process took about two minutes, plus no messing with attaching paperclips to the cases, sucking my printed degree wheel into the flywheel (yeah, I've done that before), or any other complexity. And as an added bonus, the arithmetic is easier, too.

Here's my specific technique, with pictures, and happy timing, everyone!
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Use a piston stop, should be found at the local auto parts store= lifesaver.
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dsnyder586 wrote:
Use a piston stop, should be found at the local auto parts store= lifesaver.
that's going on the list!
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Cdevillasante wrote:
that's going on the list!
Lol Cant find mine....its here somewhere
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dsnyder586 wrote:
Use a piston stop, should be found at the local auto parts store= lifesaver.
Agreed

If you go the inclinometer route, you can also stick it to the stator for precision adjustment when you finalize timing after strobing it. And while it might be overkill if you're not going to make a habit of working on motors, an adjustable timing light makes a world of difference for all timing tasks.

As to assembly, I do the wiring harness, then cables, then the motor. It's a LOT easier to do them when you can flip the frame around, turn it over, whatever else you need to get good angles and good access for running the wiring and cables.

I'm loving the color, too. Moar Citrus FTW!
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the color reminds me of this
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That yellow is going to look good with black trim and accessories.
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So I have run into a problem which I hope is not as bad as I think. When looking at images of stator placement I noticed my screws are not as tight as most pics I saw. So I tried to tighten them down and they started to move, then loosen them the nut comes off. It feels like the bolts are spinning. Any ideas? Do I need to split the cases again? They were torqued, but seemed like the nuts could go deeper
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The stator screws or the case bolts?
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The case bolts, just talked to a friend who said I may have put them in too deep or not used loctite on them. He says I need to remove and replace the bolts, hopefully they play nice.

oh just noticed in the previous post I said screws but meant bolts
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Oh no! Hope they're not stripped. That's fixable, though

It's good to use a torque wrench on those. They're kind of tight but not too tight.
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Well got one out so far and I'm wondering if these are just too short or did I put them in backwards? The darker side went into the case, lighter stuck. They were torqued but just didn't seem long enough
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That's right. Are the threads in the case ok?

On mine, I got a set and the threads seemed too shallow. I think FA Italia. They had some play. So I got a second set and they were fine.
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I have some sip ones. Just gotta find em.
Hopefully the case threads are ok, they seem normal. What was stripped was the very top of the bolt
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Here's what mine look like, if it helps.
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Thanks I'm gonna order a new set.
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Come to think of it. For the posts in the crank case, I just reused the original ones.

The others got rusty, but these ones were ok.

They should stick out a bit.
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In these situations I always ask myself, "Are they the right way around? Or, are some intentionally longer than others?" Like with the case bolts, for example.
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It sucks because I have the originals and they are in good condition except 1 which has two barely flattened threads, enough to stop the nut, arghhhhh. Now to order them the shipping is more than the bolts, and the wait is a pain. I am tempted to use a friends tap and die set, ....or maybe just pay and wait.....
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I would totally run the originals through a die if you have one. Seems fine to me. I guess if they are that old maybe the threads are stretched and new ones would be better.
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The threads were squashed by pliers but I am just going to work on something else and find other parts I need to order so I can wait a bit, There are lots of things still to do!
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Molto Verboso
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Did you order from Scooterwest?

Shipping on small orders is more than the orders sometimes, but they're so good about shipping. Everything always in two days.
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I've got an M7x1.0 tap and die if you want to chase the threads on the original studs, or the case.
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oopsclunkthud wrote:
I've got an M7x1.0 tap and die if you want to chase the threads on the original studs, or the case.
Thanks Oops, but I wont be able to make it in to the city till at least the weekend so I will just order some new ones. Scooterwest also has a piston stop so I will get that too
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hjo wrote:
It looks like all the parts are there.

There's a 12 volt version, and one that doesn't say (I'm guessing it's 6 volt), but they look the same, so not sure which it is.

I thought all of those were 12V. They don't make a 6v that I have seen.
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Birdsnest wrote:
I thought all of those were 12V. They don't make a 6v that I have seen.
That's probably right.

There are two versions, and one says 12v, one doesn't specify. They look the same, aside from the CDI and regulator. Might just be newer/older versions in stock.
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Scooterwest rocks 2 day shipping pretty consistently. And it seems the piston stop is Italian because I see bloccapistone on the tag. Excited to carry on until the next "damnit I don't have that…."
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Cdevillasante wrote:
it seems the piston stop is Italian because I see bloccapistone on the tag.
The tag shows the end of Buzzetti, which is Italian, but it also seems to show the last letters of "Taiwan".

In any case, it seems to be a one size fits all affair.

Having several scooters with different combustion chamber architectures, I made a modular piston stop out of a hollowed out spark plug, and a long bolt. Cheap, works great, and you can adjust the length of the bolt to suit different needs.
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Hooked
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Frank N. Stein wrote:
The tag shows the end of Buzzetti, which is Italian, but it also seems to show the last letters of "Taiwan".

In any case, it seems to be a one size fits all affair.

Having several scooters with different combustion chamber architectures, I made a modular piston stop out of a hollowed out spark plug, and a long bolt. Cheap, works great, and you can adjust the length of the bolt to suit different needs.
well at least the Italian is nice in theory! I saw on scooterhelp that one could make one from a sparkplug, but I was trying to justify the shipping. it was like 15 bucks so I went for it
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Molto Verboso
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Cdevillasante wrote:
Scooterwest rocks 2 day shipping pretty consistently. And it seems the piston stop is Italian because I see bloccapistone on the tag. Excited to carry on until the next "damnit I don't have that…."
I love them. The parts always arrive super fast.
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