OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
Yea cause I am have a mew bolt anyway. It was pretty easy to cut out
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
My tubes inside the swing arm are sticking out about like 5 mm too much on one side they aren't playing nice and I can't get them in any farther even though there is a good gap in the center. I tried heating the swing arm case and rubber mallet with minimal results. Any suggestions? I am trying to mount the engine
@christopher_55934 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Ossessionato
@christopher_55934 avatar
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
UTC quote
Cdevillasante wrote:
My tubes inside the swing arm are sticking out about like 5 mm too much on one side they aren't playing nice and I can't get them in any farther even though there is a good gap in the center. I tried heating the swing arm case and rubber mallet with minimal results. Any suggestions? I am trying to mount the engine
I use a piece of all thread through center, fender washers on both sides, nuts on both sides, deep well socket and 1/4" electric impact and tighten everything until it's pulled into place.

I find Clause mounts easier also.

https://www.claussstudios.com/store/p538/Vespa_PX200E__Polyurethane_Engine_Mounts.html
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
Thanks I will try that! Yay all hope is not lost ( one of those days )
@frank_n_stein avatar
UTC

Addicted
Jet 200, P200E (x2), T5
Joined: UTC
Posts: 562
Location: Paris & Los Angeles
 
Addicted
@frank_n_stein avatar
Jet 200, P200E (x2), T5
Joined: UTC
Posts: 562
Location: Paris & Los Angeles
UTC quote
Never tried the clauss PU mounts, but word among those I know who've used them is that they vIbRaTe like hell.

You can use tire mounting paste the next time you try to install silent blocks: it helps things slide.
@geeklion avatar
UTC

The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2295
Location: PNW from LBC
 
The Dude
@geeklion avatar
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2295
Location: PNW from LBC
UTC quote
Frank N. Stein wrote:
Never tried the clauss PU mounts, but word among those I know who've used them is that they vIbRaTe like hell.

You can use tire mounting paste the next time you try to install silent blocks: it helps things slide.
Clauss mounts really dont vibrate like that. IMHO. They arent solid & hard, like some of the race mounts. Slightly firmer than stock, but with extra reinforcement on the outer edge. They are much easier to install, compared to stock rubber.
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
The engine, she is in! And the t5 carb box fits nicely. not sure what would be good to do next, cables? Electronics?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
That's awesome!
UTC

Addicted
1968 VBB150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 703
Location: OC
 
Addicted
1968 VBB150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 703
Location: OC
UTC quote
Maybe timing and button up the motor with an exhaust? Then you can have the big parts handled- just will have to connect, connect and adjust cables.
@gmontag avatar
UTC

Addicted
1964 GS160, 1966 90SS, 1966 Sears Bluebadge (90SS replica)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 515
 
Addicted
@gmontag avatar
1964 GS160, 1966 90SS, 1966 Sears Bluebadge (90SS replica)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 515
UTC quote
Cdevillasante wrote:
The engine, she is in! And the t5 carb box fits nicely. not sure what would be good to do next, cables? Electronics?
Center stand boots. Yellow preferred
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
Yellow boots indeed! I am doing research on the timing from older posts and they all start after finding tdc and btdc, but how do you find it? and tdc = top dead center, btdc=?
looks like its study time

Chandlerman this looks good Finding TDC with an Inclinometer
chandlerman wrote:
So far as I know, credit for the idea of using an inclinometer goes to Scooter Republic, the Buzzwangle inventors.

Now a decent inclinometer is pretty cheap, like $25 on Amazon. But the CNC'ed attachment tool they provide, along with the piston stop, which is redundant for me, made it hard to justify the cost.

What I did instead is tape a neodymium magnet to the back of my inclinometer, stick that to the flywheel, and do it that way.

For whatever reason, I decided to work this out to deal with checking the Sprint's timing over the weekend and once I sorted it, the entire process took about two minutes, plus no messing with attaching paperclips to the cases, sucking my printed degree wheel into the flywheel (yeah, I've done that before), or any other complexity. And as an added bonus, the arithmetic is easier, too.

Here's my specific technique, with pictures, and happy timing, everyone!
UTC

Addicted
1968 VBB150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 703
Location: OC
 
Addicted
1968 VBB150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 703
Location: OC
UTC quote
Use a piston stop, should be found at the local auto parts store= lifesaver.
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
dsnyder586 wrote:
Use a piston stop, should be found at the local auto parts store= lifesaver.
that's going on the list!
UTC

Addicted
1968 VBB150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 703
Location: OC
 
Addicted
1968 VBB150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 703
Location: OC
UTC quote
Cdevillasante wrote:
that's going on the list!
Lol Cant find mine....its here somewhere
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10883
Location: Nashville

281 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10883
Location: Nashville

281 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
dsnyder586 wrote:
Use a piston stop, should be found at the local auto parts store= lifesaver.
Agreed

If you go the inclinometer route, you can also stick it to the stator for precision adjustment when you finalize timing after strobing it. And while it might be overkill if you're not going to make a habit of working on motors, an adjustable timing light makes a world of difference for all timing tasks.

As to assembly, I do the wiring harness, then cables, then the motor. It's a LOT easier to do them when you can flip the frame around, turn it over, whatever else you need to get good angles and good access for running the wiring and cables.

I'm loving the color, too. Moar Citrus FTW!
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
the color reminds me of this
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@christopher_55934 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Ossessionato
@christopher_55934 avatar
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
UTC quote
That yellow is going to look good with black trim and accessories.
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
So I have run into a problem which I hope is not as bad as I think. When looking at images of stator placement I noticed my screws are not as tight as most pics I saw. So I tried to tighten them down and they started to move, then loosen them the nut comes off. It feels like the bolts are spinning. Any ideas? Do I need to split the cases again? They were torqued, but seemed like the nuts could go deeper
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
The stator screws or the case bolts?
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
The case bolts, just talked to a friend who said I may have put them in too deep or not used loctite on them. He says I need to remove and replace the bolts, hopefully they play nice.

oh just noticed in the previous post I said screws but meant bolts
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
Oh no! Hope they're not stripped. That's fixable, though

It's good to use a torque wrench on those. They're kind of tight but not too tight.
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
Well got one out so far and I'm wondering if these are just too short or did I put them in backwards? The darker side went into the case, lighter stuck. They were torqued but just didn't seem long enough
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
That's right. Are the threads in the case ok?

On mine, I got a set and the threads seemed too shallow. I think FA Italia. They had some play. So I got a second set and they were fine.
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
I have some sip ones. Just gotta find em.
Hopefully the case threads are ok, they seem normal. What was stripped was the very top of the bolt
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
Here's what mine look like, if it helps.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
Thanks I'm gonna order a new set.
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
Come to think of it. For the posts in the crank case, I just reused the original ones.

The others got rusty, but these ones were ok.

They should stick out a bit.
@autojack avatar
UTC

Addicted
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 711
Location: Melbourne
 
Addicted
@autojack avatar
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 711
Location: Melbourne
UTC quote
In these situations I always ask myself, "Are they the right way around? Or, are some intentionally longer than others?" Like with the case bolts, for example.
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
It sucks because I have the originals and they are in good condition except 1 which has two barely flattened threads, enough to stop the nut, arghhhhh. Now to order them the shipping is more than the bolts, and the wait is a pain. I am tempted to use a friends tap and die set, ....or maybe just pay and wait.....
@autojack avatar
UTC

Addicted
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 711
Location: Melbourne
 
Addicted
@autojack avatar
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 711
Location: Melbourne
UTC quote
I would totally run the originals through a die if you have one. Seems fine to me. I guess if they are that old maybe the threads are stretched and new ones would be better.
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
The threads were squashed by pliers but I am just going to work on something else and find other parts I need to order so I can wait a bit, There are lots of things still to do!
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
Did you order from Scooterwest?

Shipping on small orders is more than the orders sometimes, but they're so good about shipping. Everything always in two days.
@oopsclunkthud avatar
UTC

Banned
3:5
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9053
Location: San Francisco
 
Banned
@oopsclunkthud avatar
3:5
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9053
Location: San Francisco
UTC quote
I've got an M7x1.0 tap and die if you want to chase the threads on the original studs, or the case.
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
I've got an M7x1.0 tap and die if you want to chase the threads on the original studs, or the case.
Thanks Oops, but I wont be able to make it in to the city till at least the weekend so I will just order some new ones. Scooterwest also has a piston stop so I will get that too
@birdsnest avatar
UTC

Not So Moderator
VNB VSC VMA VSX - o9c vmb vse
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8887
Location: Hustletown, TX
 
Not So Moderator
@birdsnest avatar
VNB VSC VMA VSX - o9c vmb vse
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8887
Location: Hustletown, TX
UTC quote
hjo wrote:
It looks like all the parts are there.

There's a 12 volt version, and one that doesn't say (I'm guessing it's 6 volt), but they look the same, so not sure which it is.

I thought all of those were 12V. They don't make a 6v that I have seen.
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
Birdsnest wrote:
I thought all of those were 12V. They don't make a 6v that I have seen.
That's probably right.

There are two versions, and one says 12v, one doesn't specify. They look the same, aside from the CDI and regulator. Might just be newer/older versions in stock.
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
Scooterwest rocks 2 day shipping pretty consistently. And it seems the piston stop is Italian because I see bloccapistone on the tag. Excited to carry on until the next "damnit I don't have that…."
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@frank_n_stein avatar
UTC

Addicted
Jet 200, P200E (x2), T5
Joined: UTC
Posts: 562
Location: Paris & Los Angeles
 
Addicted
@frank_n_stein avatar
Jet 200, P200E (x2), T5
Joined: UTC
Posts: 562
Location: Paris & Los Angeles
UTC quote
Cdevillasante wrote:
it seems the piston stop is Italian because I see bloccapistone on the tag.
The tag shows the end of Buzzetti, which is Italian, but it also seems to show the last letters of "Taiwan".

In any case, it seems to be a one size fits all affair.

Having several scooters with different combustion chamber architectures, I made a modular piston stop out of a hollowed out spark plug, and a long bolt. Cheap, works great, and you can adjust the length of the bolt to suit different needs.
OP
@cdevillasante avatar
UTC

Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
 
Addicted
@cdevillasante avatar
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
UTC quote
Frank N. Stein wrote:
The tag shows the end of Buzzetti, which is Italian, but it also seems to show the last letters of "Taiwan".

In any case, it seems to be a one size fits all affair.

Having several scooters with different combustion chamber architectures, I made a modular piston stop out of a hollowed out spark plug, and a long bolt. Cheap, works great, and you can adjust the length of the bolt to suit different needs.
well at least the Italian is nice in theory! I saw on scooterhelp that one could make one from a sparkplug, but I was trying to justify the shipping. it was like 15 bucks so I went for it
@hjo avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@hjo avatar
Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847
Location: San Francisco, CA
UTC quote
Cdevillasante wrote:
Scooterwest rocks 2 day shipping pretty consistently. And it seems the piston stop is Italian because I see bloccapistone on the tag. Excited to carry on until the next "damnit I don't have that…."
I love them. The parts always arrive super fast.
DoubleGood Design banner

Modern Vespa is the premier site for modern Vespa and Piaggio scooters. Vespa GTS300, GTS250, GTV, GT200, LX150, LXS, ET4, ET2, MP3, Fuoco, Elettrica and more.

Buy Me A Coffee
 

Shop on Amazon with Modern Vespa

Modern Vespa is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com


All Content Copyright 2005-2025 by Modern Vespa.
All Rights Reserved.


[ Time: 0.0222s ][ Queries: 5 (0.0068s) ][ live ][ 327 ][ ThingOne ]