OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
UTC
quote
My tubes inside the swing arm are sticking out about like 5 mm too much on one side they aren't playing nice and I can't get them in any farther even though there is a good gap in the center. I tried heating the swing arm case and rubber mallet with minimal results. Any suggestions? I am trying to mount the engine
|
![]() UTC
Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547 Location: Rochester, Minnesota |
|
|
UTC
quote
Cdevillasante wrote: My tubes inside the swing arm are sticking out about like 5 mm too much on one side they aren't playing nice and I can't get them in any farther even though there is a good gap in the center. I tried heating the swing arm case and rubber mallet with minimal results. Any suggestions? I am trying to mount the engine I find Clause mounts easier also. https://www.claussstudios.com/store/p538/Vespa_PX200E__Polyurethane_Engine_Mounts.html |
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
![]() UTC
Addicted
Jet 200, P200E (x2), T5
Joined: UTC
Posts: 562 Location: Paris & Los Angeles |
|
|
UTC
quote
Never tried the clauss PU mounts, but word among those I know who've used them is that they vIbRaTe like hell.
You can use tire mounting paste the next time you try to install silent blocks: it helps things slide. |
The Dude
![]() Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2295 Location: PNW from LBC |
UTC
quote
Frank N. Stein wrote: Never tried the clauss PU mounts, but word among those I know who've used them is that they vIbRaTe like hell. You can use tire mounting paste the next time you try to install silent blocks: it helps things slide.
Positive
|
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
UTC
quote
The engine, she is in! And the t5 carb box fits nicely. not sure what would be good to do next, cables? Electronics?
![]()
Positive
|
Molto Verboso
![]() Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
|
UTC
quote
Maybe timing and button up the motor with an exhaust? Then you can have the big parts handled- just will have to connect, connect and adjust cables.
|
|
UTC
quote
Cdevillasante wrote: The engine, she is in! And the t5 carb box fits nicely. not sure what would be good to do next, cables? Electronics? |
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
UTC
quote
Yellow boots indeed! I am doing research on the timing from older posts and they all start after finding tdc and btdc, but how do you find it? and tdc = top dead center, btdc=?
looks like its study time Chandlerman this looks good Finding TDC with an Inclinometer chandlerman wrote: So far as I know, credit for the idea of using an inclinometer goes to Scooter Republic, the Buzzwangle inventors. Now a decent inclinometer is pretty cheap, like $25 on Amazon. But the CNC'ed attachment tool they provide, along with the piston stop, which is redundant for me, made it hard to justify the cost. What I did instead is tape a neodymium magnet to the back of my inclinometer, stick that to the flywheel, and do it that way. For whatever reason, I decided to work this out to deal with checking the Sprint's timing over the weekend and once I sorted it, the entire process took about two minutes, plus no messing with attaching paperclips to the cases, sucking my printed degree wheel into the flywheel (yeah, I've done that before), or any other complexity. And as an added bonus, the arithmetic is easier, too. Here's my specific technique, with pictures, and happy timing, everyone! |
|
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
UTC
quote
dsnyder586 wrote: Use a piston stop, should be found at the local auto parts store= lifesaver. |
|
![]() UTC
Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10883 Location: Nashville 281 Days Since Last Explosion |
|
Lucky
![]() 76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10883 Location: Nashville 281 Days Since Last Explosion |
UTC
quote
dsnyder586 wrote: Use a piston stop, should be found at the local auto parts store= lifesaver. If you go the inclinometer route, you can also stick it to the stator for precision adjustment when you finalize timing after strobing it. And while it might be overkill if you're not going to make a habit of working on motors, an adjustable timing light makes a world of difference for all timing tasks. As to assembly, I do the wiring harness, then cables, then the motor. It's a LOT easier to do them when you can flip the frame around, turn it over, whatever else you need to get good angles and good access for running the wiring and cables. I'm loving the color, too. Moar Citrus FTW! |
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
![]() UTC
Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547 Location: Rochester, Minnesota |
|
|
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
UTC
quote
So I have run into a problem which I hope is not as bad as I think. When looking at images of stator placement I noticed my screws are not as tight as most pics I saw. So I tried to tighten them down and they started to move, then loosen them the nut comes off. It feels like the bolts are spinning. Any ideas? Do I need to split the cases again? They were torqued, but seemed like the nuts could go deeper
![]() |
Molto Verboso
![]() Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
UTC
quote
The case bolts, just talked to a friend who said I may have put them in too deep or not used loctite on them. He says I need to remove and replace the bolts, hopefully they play nice.
oh just noticed in the previous post I said screws but meant bolts |
Molto Verboso
![]() Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
Oh no! Hope they're not stripped. That's fixable, though
It's good to use a torque wrench on those. They're kind of tight but not too tight. |
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
UTC
quote
Well got one out so far and I'm wondering if these are just too short or did I put them in backwards? The darker side went into the case, lighter stuck. They were torqued but just didn't seem long enough
![]() |
Molto Verboso
![]() Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
That's right. Are the threads in the case ok?
On mine, I got a set and the threads seemed too shallow. I think FA Italia. They had some play. So I got a second set and they were fine. |
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
UTC
quote
I have some sip ones. Just gotta find em.
Hopefully the case threads are ok, they seem normal. What was stripped was the very top of the bolt |
Molto Verboso
![]() Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
Molto Verboso
![]() Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
Come to think of it. For the posts in the crank case, I just reused the original ones.
The others got rusty, but these ones were ok. They should stick out a bit. |
|
UTC
quote
In these situations I always ask myself, "Are they the right way around? Or, are some intentionally longer than others?" Like with the case bolts, for example.
|
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
UTC
quote
It sucks because I have the originals and they are in good condition except 1 which has two barely flattened threads, enough to stop the nut, arghhhhh. Now to order them the shipping is more than the bolts, and the wait is a pain. I am tempted to use a friends tap and die set, ....or maybe just pay and wait.....
|
|
UTC
quote
I would totally run the originals through a die if you have one. Seems fine to me. I guess if they are that old maybe the threads are stretched and new ones would be better.
|
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
UTC
quote
The threads were squashed by pliers but I am just going to work on something else and find other parts I need to order so I can wait a bit, There are lots of things still to do!
|
Molto Verboso
![]() Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
Did you order from Scooterwest?
Shipping on small orders is more than the orders sometimes, but they're so good about shipping. Everything always in two days. |
|
UTC
quote
I've got an M7x1.0 tap and die if you want to chase the threads on the original studs, or the case.
|
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
UTC
quote
oopsclunkthud wrote: I've got an M7x1.0 tap and die if you want to chase the threads on the original studs, or the case. |
Not So Moderator
![]() VNB VSC VMA VSX - o9c vmb vse
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8887 Location: Hustletown, TX |
UTC
quote
hjo wrote: It looks like all the parts are there. There's a 12 volt version, and one that doesn't say (I'm guessing it's 6 volt), but they look the same, so not sure which it is.
Positive
|
Molto Verboso
![]() Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
Birdsnest wrote: I thought all of those were 12V. They don't make a 6v that I have seen. There are two versions, and one says 12v, one doesn't specify. They look the same, aside from the CDI and regulator. Might just be newer/older versions in stock. |
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
UTC
quote
Scooterwest rocks 2 day shipping pretty consistently. And it seems the piston stop is Italian because I see bloccapistone on the tag. Excited to carry on until the next "damnit I don't have that…."
![]() |
![]() UTC
Addicted
Jet 200, P200E (x2), T5
Joined: UTC
Posts: 562 Location: Paris & Los Angeles |
|
|
UTC
quote
Cdevillasante wrote: it seems the piston stop is Italian because I see bloccapistone on the tag. In any case, it seems to be a one size fits all affair. Having several scooters with different combustion chamber architectures, I made a modular piston stop out of a hollowed out spark plug, and a long bolt. Cheap, works great, and you can adjust the length of the bolt to suit different needs. |
OP
![]() UTC
Addicted
1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
|
OP
Addicted
![]() 1975 Rally 200, 2007 GT 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 589 Location: San Francisco Bay Area |
UTC
quote
Frank N. Stein wrote: The tag shows the end of Buzzetti, which is Italian, but it also seems to show the last letters of "Taiwan". In any case, it seems to be a one size fits all affair. Having several scooters with different combustion chamber architectures, I made a modular piston stop out of a hollowed out spark plug, and a long bolt. Cheap, works great, and you can adjust the length of the bolt to suit different needs. |
Molto Verboso
![]() Scattered remnants of (two!) 1974 Rallys
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1847 Location: San Francisco, CA |
UTC
quote
Cdevillasante wrote: Scooterwest rocks 2 day shipping pretty consistently. And it seems the piston stop is Italian because I see bloccapistone on the tag. Excited to carry on until the next "damnit I don't have that…." |
Modern Vespa is the premier site for modern Vespa and Piaggio scooters. Vespa GTS300, GTS250, GTV, GT200, LX150, LXS, ET4, ET2, MP3, Fuoco, Elettrica and more.