Modern Vespa

piaggio oem
polini
galfer
braking wave
ebc
rms (cheap?)
malossi (expensive - please don't recommend)
zelioni (hell expensive - please don't recommend)
sip (expensive - please don't recommend)
other?

what do I want? to not spend the earth and survive aggressive riding and all weather. ie, I want everthing

piaggio OEM or RMS

DP and EBC are both good as well.

until you upgrade your calipers, OEM quality and the like will be just fine.

I bought OEM + new matching bolts in case I damage the heads. Fuck just realised I only bought new bolts for the front - hope I don't damage the rear bolts.

Was hoping to install them tomorrow, any tips on removing / installing the bolts?

The replacement bolts came with what looks like pre-applied loctite (about a 1cm stripe of blue on the threads), is that fine or should I add loctite? Am I gonna need heat like the rear abs tone wheel bolts famously need - those go into the wheel where as the bolts I'm dealing with are into the hub on both the front+rear? Also the front specs in the manual have 'disc tightening screws' and 'brake disk screws' ... which?

PS, also installing frando callipers front + rear

so there's like, 5 different bolts. there's the bolts that hold the front wheel to the hub. then there's the bolts that attach the tone wheel and disc on the front.

out back, you have the bolts that hold the wheel to the hub, the "screws" that attach the tone wheel screw into those bolts, then you have the bolts that attach the disc to the hub with nuts. be careful, but deliberate. if you don't have an impact driver it'd be a wise investment. heat certainly helps. don't use bits that are rounded or worn. the pre applied locking compound is sufficient. you can add a drop if you like, but it's not necessary. use it sparingly! you may need heat on the tone wheel bolts, I'd give them a whack to see if I could shock them loose and if not then I'd apply some heat and get after it. the front specs that list as "tightening" and "disk screws" is probably just a misprint or some type of formatting error. if you look at the table, it doesn't list a torque value under the "tightening" but does under "disk screws", I'd follow that number. excellent! you should like them. they're kind of a pain to bleed down, but they will. if you don't have a power bleeder, a handheld one is cheap or you may be able to borrow/rent one. makes a miserable job a little easier.

The Frando rear caliper gave me more issues when it came to bleeding it than any caliper I've ever installed. I'm not sure why.
I ended up removing it from the bike, holding it up in the air, and bleeding it with the nipple pointing straight up.

I'm currently struggling with the front caliper. rear had no problems.

EDIT: which way around do you think the bleed and brake line should be? seen photos with both bleed above and bleed below. they came in the box with bleed below but I switched to above as made more sense.