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@phangtonpower avatar
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Owned Vespa Rally 200, V90, Li150 series II...now a PX200
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Owned Vespa Rally 200, V90, Li150 series II...now a PX200
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Quick question.
I'm replacing my rear brake cable on my px. I'm not sure if the cable outer is teflon or not, so I'm not sure if I need to grease it. Is there a way to tell?
I'm not sure on the year, but it has to be after the 2000s. It is a disk brake model.
@exmayor avatar
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64 V90 survivor '65 Allstate survivor. '75 V90 SOLD. '77 P200 SOLD
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@exmayor avatar
64 V90 survivor '65 Allstate survivor. '75 V90 SOLD. '77 P200 SOLD
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Location: Madison WI
UTC quote
Phangtonpower wrote:
Quick question.
I'm replacing my rear brake cable on my px. I'm not sure if the cable outer is teflon or not, so I'm not sure if I need to grease it. Is there a way to tell?
I'm not sure on the year, but it has to be after the 2000s. It is a disk brake model.
Since you will have to pull the rear pedal to change the inner cable you might want to consider installing the T5 conversion cable.
The modifications to the pedal assembly is simple, just dremel a slot so the new cable can slide thru.
Changing the lever is a little more complicated but not terribly difficult.
Yuo will need to remove the rear hub and brake backing plate. Then swap out the levers and reassemble. You will also need to remove threaded adjuster and drill the cable stop out to 7mm.
Rear cable adjustments then become a simple process of holding the cable tang with a vice grip (mole grip) and adjust the nut with a 10 mm socket.
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/conversion-kit-brake-cable-rear-vespa-t5_J50015000
Slot for new cable
Slot for new cable
Simple adjustment process
Simple adjustment process
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@phangtonpower avatar
Owned Vespa Rally 200, V90, Li150 series II...now a PX200
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Location: Fukui, Japan From San Diego
UTC quote
exmayor wrote:
Since you will have to pull the rear pedal to change the inner cable you might want to consider installing the T5 conversion cable.
The modifications to the pedal assembly is simple, just dremel a slot so the new cable can slide thru.
Changing the lever is a little more complicated but not terribly difficult.
Yuo will need to remove the rear hub and brake backing plate. Then swap out the levers and reassemble. You will also need to remove threaded adjuster and drill the cable stop out to 7mm.
Rear cable adjustments then become a simple process of holding the cable tang with a vice grip (mole grip) and adjust the nut with a 10 mm socket.
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/conversion-kit-brake-cable-rear-vespa-t5_J50015000
I was thinking about it, but parts are hard to come by here. Maybe when I have another big order with sip. You wouldn't happen to know how to tell if my outer is teflon coated?
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@phangtonpower avatar
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UTC quote
No love?
Alright what about this. Is there a grease or oil that can be used for either?
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'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '65 VBB, '66 Allstate SF, '66 180SS, '58 LD 125 (150)
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Maybe silicone, graphite, or synthetic grease ? Nothing at all ?
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Location: Madison WI
UTC quote
Phangtonpower wrote:
I was thinking about it, but parts are hard to come by here. Maybe when I have another big order with sip. You wouldn't happen to know how to tell if my outer is teflon coated?
I ordered mine thru Scooter Mercato just use this form https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Vintage-Vespa-Parts/SIP-Part
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UTC quote
exmayor wrote:
I ordered mine thru Scooter Mercato just use this form https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Vintage-Vespa-Parts/SIP-Part
I live in Japan
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Moto64 wrote:
Maybe silicone, graphite, or synthetic grease ? Nothing at all ?
yeah I guess I'll grease it up with what ever I have. I've heard that greasing cables with teflon outer's isn't a good idea. I guess it's cheap and easy enough to replace if I have to. Then I can upgrade to the T5 style setup. The newer PXs are supposed to have teflon outer cables.
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UTC quote
It's a thick cable in a short sheath running in a relatively straight line and the return spring pressure and the action of braking is hard and short. I doubt you even notice the difference between standard and teflon liners in this instance. I imagine that most times the cable is changed is because it might have sat for a long time and rusted or it is so frayed at the rear end that it is hard to attach to the clamp.
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@geeklion avatar
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Has anyone done a vivisection of the 'teflon' cable outers, compared to the ptfe (plastic lined) cable outers? I'm curious if teflon is really teflon, or is it just marketing speak for newer-ish plastic type liner.

I'm also curious about what lube is best for each instance. Stainless cables/ galvanized cables/plstic liner/teflon liner. I'm currently using plastic lined outers with stainless cables+Motion-Pro cable lube; all works well
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UTC quote
GeekLion wrote:
Has anyone done a vivisection of the 'teflon' cable outers, compared to the ptfe (plastic lined) cable outers? I'm curious if teflon is really teflon, or is it just marketing speak for newer-ish plastic type liner.

I'm also curious about what lube is best for each instance. Stainless cables/ galvanized cables/plstic liner/teflon liner. I'm currently using plastic lined outers with stainless cables+Motion-Pro cable lube; all works well
Petroleum based lubricants can cause some plastics to swell up and deteriorate.
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UTC quote
GeekLion wrote:
Has anyone done a vivisection of the 'teflon' cable outers, compared to the ptfe (plastic lined) cable outers? I'm curious if teflon is really teflon, or is it just marketing speak for newer-ish plastic type liner.

I'm also curious about what lube is best for each instance. Stainless cables/ galvanized cables/plstic liner/teflon liner. I'm currently using plastic lined outers with stainless cables+Motion-Pro cable lube; all works well
Good question!
PTFE is Teflon. Teflon is a trademark, so product descriptions will use PTFE.
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Owned Vespa Rally 200, V90, Li150 series II...now a PX200
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Location: Fukui, Japan From San Diego
 
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@phangtonpower avatar
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Joined: UTC
Posts: 218
Location: Fukui, Japan From San Diego
UTC quote
Moto64 wrote:
It's a thick cable in a short sheath running in a relatively straight line and the return spring pressure and the action of braking is hard and short. I doubt you even notice the difference between standard and teflon liners in this instance. I imagine that most times the cable is changed is because it might have sat for a long time and rusted or it is so frayed at the rear end that it is hard to attach to the clamp.
True, but it would be nice to know for when I need to change other cables.

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