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Hi members.
I noticed some oil drops once every hour or so coming down from my header. Do you think that I have drop the entire engine and change my head gasket? or do you think that only valve caver and partial engine drop will suffice? my vespa has about 20k miles and I am so sad that I can't ride for a while now. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Please take a look at the photos below.

thank you all.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Molto Verboso
GTS 300ie
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Why can't you ride it?
@madison_sully avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
MP3 500, GTS 250 (both 2008 MY), 2013 Piaggio BV 350, 2014 Can Am Spyder RT
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UTC quote
Looks more like coolant to me.

But, why no clamp on your exhaust?
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UTC quote
My 2009 GTS developed a leak like that at 20,000 miles. I replaced the head and base gasket and it went away. Mine only happened after a ride. I would clean it up after it cooled and no leak. Next ride it was back.
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
2019 GTS 300 HPE SuperTech 70,000km
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UTC quote
Very good chance it's a loose hose clamp on a coolant hose
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UTC quote
steelbytes wrote:
Very good chance it's a loose hose clamp on a coolant hose
that is a great point. I will check it out to make sure that is not that case. I wish that it is an easy fix
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Madison Sully wrote:
Looks more like coolant to me.

But, why no clamp on your exhaust?
I have akrapovich exhaust and i find that clamp serves no purpose. No leak comes from the exhaust now. It only makes it hard for me to take it off when I do oil changes etc.
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Pinkscooter wrote:
My 2009 GTS developed a leak like that at 20,000 miles. I replaced the head and base gasket and it went away. Mine only happened after a ride. I would clean it up after it cooled and no leak. Next ride it was back.
when you replaced your gaskets did you partially or fully drop your engine?
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Molto Verboso
2018 GTS 300 Touring Rosso Vignola, 2020 BV 350 Matte Green, 1956 VL3
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UTC quote
Is GTI 300 a typo?
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UTC quote
I started to take the engine apart. Drained the cooling fluid. took off zip ties. took off thermostat. next is wheel so that I can take off the back brake caliper. Then oil drain. Air box to get to get to the rear shocks. I hope that I can put it all back together!
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@berto avatar
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Ossessionato
2006 LX150 (carbed) | 2007 GT200
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UTC quote
So you ruled out a loose clamp or leak from somewhere other than the head?
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UTC quote
berto wrote:
So you ruled out a loose clamp or leak from somewhere other than the head?
correct. I checked all of the hoses no leaks
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GT 200
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UTC quote
You can get a complete top end gasket kit, with everything you need to do the top end for $60. We have them. The part number is 4975516.
Take photos before you take everything apart, so you know how it goes back together. Disconnect the battery before you start taking the engine out.
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Motovista wrote:
You can get a complete top end gasket kit, with everything you need to do the top end for $60. We have them. The part number is 4975516.
Take photos before you take everything apart, so you know how it goes back together. Disconnect the battery before you start taking the engine out.
amazing info and checked out your site--amazing prices. I was getting all of my parts from scooterwest. I will definitely have this site in my favorites!
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UTC quote
I can't believe but I actually detached the engine! I don't know if I will be able to put back together, but I am going to open it up and see what is causing the leak!!
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
20k miles never changed the spark plug. going to change it for the first time!!
20k miles never changed the spark plug. going to change it for the first time!!
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@lebo avatar
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Molto Verboso
2018 GTS 300 Touring Rosso Vignola, 2020 BV 350 Matte Green, 1956 VL3
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Keep up the good work. Positive vibes directed your way!
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Lebo wrote:
Keep up the good work. Positive vibes directed your way!
thank you!!!!
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Tethys - 2012 GTS 300
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UTC quote
I am impressed - good going!
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GTS 300 HPE
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diffuzion wrote:
I can't believe but I actually detached the engine! I don't know if I will be able to put back together,
Good work. Be careful you don't have any screws left over.
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Sledge wrote:
Good work. Be careful you don't have any screws left over.
good advice haha. I put all of the screws already where I took them out of. I don't have any screws laying around. I know it's doing the work twice, but it keeps the screws/bolts organized.
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Hooked
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UTC quote
This winter I did a head gasket and Base Gasket putting a Malossi kit on my GTV 300.

A tip I learned and will always use when doing major motor work. I went to Goodwill, purchased Cup Cake trays. 2 of them about 10, 12 Cupcake slots per tray.
I used 1 tray for the Left side of the bike and a tray for the right side of the bike.

Made organizing and reinstallation very simple. When the trays are empty, then you are done.

I have multiple GTS 300's which I adore, however I always go back to the GTV, why? Because I rebuilt it. Once you are done, you will be giving yourself a High five, everytime you ride it.

Good luck.
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GTS 250ie
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Location: The Jerz
 
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UTC quote
Gildod wrote:
This winter I did a head gasket and Base Gasket putting a Malossi kit on my GTV 300.

A tip I learned and will always use when doing major motor work. I went to Goodwill, purchased Cup Cake trays. 2 of them about 10, 12 Cupcake slots per tray.
I used 1 tray for the Left side of the bike and a tray for the right side of the bike.

Made organizing and reinstallation very simple. When the trays are empty, then you are done.

I have multiple GTS 300's which I adore, however I always go back to the GTV, why? Because I rebuilt it. Once you are done, you will be giving yourself a High five, everytime you ride it.

Did you do a bigger displacement cylinder and the Maolssi head? Did you get good gains?


Good luck.
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Hooked
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UTC quote
I went with a bigger bore 75.5 mm, and the Malossi head with bigger valves.
I went with the thicker gasket, in my research it showed I would get a little lesser compression than going with the Thinner one.

This is my Cannonball bike, so long periods of time at 60-70 MPH, got me thinking the motor would run a few degrees cooler more reliably. Whether this holds true or not, is yet to be seen.

To answer your question. It is not as fast as my HPE bikes, but it is faster than my 2015 300. Even with a giant windscreen I can still get her going as fast as I want. Still in the break in period, so I have not pushed it yet, but I am hoping to in another 200 miles.

I hope this answered your questions.
UTC

Hooked
2013 BV350, 2014 GTS , 2016 GTS, 2013 Downtown 300i, 2018 Like 150i
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UTC quote
I also just rebuilt a top end with new cylinder/piston/head/waterproof. In fact, I did it twice because one of the engine bolts twisted and broke when torquing down the engine. I had to order 4 new bolts and take it apart and do it again!

I ran into other issues... like the exhaust rocker had a flat spot and the camshaft was galled slightly there. I ordered an original equipment replacement rocker from a shop in Italy, and it took 6 weeks in the Italian Post before it got here, so a weekend job turned into two months.

When the time came, it cranked first time, ran for 20 minutes to do a muffler paint bake , then ran 130 miles two weekends ago. All seems okay so far! No coolant or oil leaks inside or out. I'm cautiously optimistic that my rebuild is good.

This is a 2016 GTS purchased very cheaply with the description "blown head gasket". I decided to do a top end rebuild with an inexpensive known good head, new cylinder and piston, and a waterpump for good measure.
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rdhood wrote:
I also just rebuilt a top end with new cylinder/piston/head/waterproof. In fact, I did it twice because one of the engine bolts twisted and broke when torquing down the engine. I had to order 4 new bolts and take it apart and do it again!

I ran into other issues... like the exhaust rocker had a flat spot and the camshaft was galled slightly there. I ordered an original equipment replacement rocker from a shop in Italy, and it took 6 weeks in the Italian Post before it got here, so a weekend job turned into two months.

When the time came, it cranked first time, ran for 20 minutes to do a muffler paint bake , then ran 130 miles two weekends ago. All seems okay so far! No coolant or oil leaks inside or out. I'm cautiously optimistic that my rebuild is good.

This is a 2016 GTS purchased very cheaply with the description "blown head gasket". I decided to do a top end rebuild with an inexpensive known good head, new cylinder and piston, and a waterpump for good measure.
where did you buy those spare parts?
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UTC quote
It looks i have to replace the rubber dampener for screw that holds the engine to the scooter body. Does anyone know what this part is called? I am not that technical when it comes to various bolts, washers, etc.
what is this part called?
what is this part called?
@corn avatar
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Hooked
2010 GTS300 Super
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UTC quote
I think that's the silent block (272750) / rubber engine mount bushing. Double check that part number for your specific model/year.
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The Hornet (GT200, aka Love Bug) and 'Dimples' - a GTS 300
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UTC quote
That silent block is a right royal PITA to remove.

GTS 300 crankcase silent block replacement question (solved)
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If that bushing looks like that, I wonder what the Shock bushings look like? Should they be replaced as well?
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Hooked
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UTC quote
diffuzion wrote:
where did you buy those spare parts?
Scooterpartsco
Scooterwest
SIP
Various Italian shops
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UTC quote
Gildod wrote:
If that bushing looks like that, I wonder what the Shock bushings look like? Should they be replaced as well?
They should be fine pretty much for the life of the bike.

If those crankcase silent blocks are compromised, then it's worth checking the swing-arm needle bearings while the engine is out. That's the swingarm in front of the engine, NOT the exhaust support bracket that everyone mistakenly refers to as the swingarm.
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jimc wrote:
They should be fine pretty much for the life of the bike.

If those crankcase silent blocks are compromised, then it's worth checking the swing-arm needle bearings while the engine is out. That's the swingarm in front of the engine, NOT the exhaust support bracket that everyone mistakenly refers to as the swingarm.
great points!
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UTC quote
Just when I thought that I was going to put my engine together. While I was torquing screws where the valves are, I hear a pop and one of the screw/studs is now lose that is coming out of the black part of the engine, which I am thinking is the cylender head. I am devastated. Do I need the entire new cylinder head or can I just torque the three screws?
loose screw/bolt/stud
loose screw/bolt/stud
my daughter helping me work on the engine:)
my daughter helping me work on the engine:)
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Hooked
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UTC quote
Sounds like a cylinder head stud broke. You may need to remove the cylinder and piston to have a look.
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UTC quote
Sorry. Do not pass go. You're going to need to fix that before you move on. Also, do get yourself a torque wrench if you don't have one.
UTC

Hooked
2013 BV350, 2014 GTS , 2016 GTS, 2013 Downtown 300i, 2018 Like 150i
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UTC quote
As I wrote earlier:
rdhood wrote:
I also just rebuilt a top end with new cylinder/piston/head/waterproof. In fact, I did it twice because one of the engine bolts twisted and broke when torquing down the engine. I had to order 4 new bolts and take it apart and do it again!

So, been there done that. You should get 4 new cylinder head studs and try again. Things like base gasket and head gasket are single torque items, so you should also replace those again too, even though they are brand new.
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rdhood wrote:
As I wrote earlier:




So, been there done that. You should get 4 new cylinder head studs and try again. Things like base gasket and head gasket are single torque items, so you should also replace those again too, even though they are brand new.
thanks for the tip! tell me how do you screw the stud and unscrew it? with pliers or is there a special tool?
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UTC quote
rdhood wrote:
I also just rebuilt a top end with new cylinder/piston/head/waterproof. In fact, I did it twice because one of the engine bolts twisted and broke when torquing down the engine. I had to order 4 new bolts and take it apart and do it again!

I ran into other issues... like the exhaust rocker had a flat spot and the camshaft was galled slightly there. I ordered an original equipment replacement rocker from a shop in Italy, and it took 6 weeks in the Italian Post before it got here, so a weekend job turned into two months.

When the time came, it cranked first time, ran for 20 minutes to do a muffler paint bake , then ran 130 miles two weekends ago. All seems okay so far! No coolant or oil leaks inside or out. I'm cautiously optimistic that my rebuild is good.

1. you are amazing
2. this is inspiring. I was on the edge of giving up today, but now i feel re-energized.
This is a 2016 GTS purchased very cheaply with the description "blown head gasket". I decided to do a top end rebuild with an inexpensive known good head, new cylinder and piston, and a waterpump for good measure.
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UTC quote
diffuzion wrote:
thanks for the tip! tell me how do you screw the stud and unscrew it? with pliers or is there a special tool?
Use two nuts on the top of the stud - bind them together using two wrenches then use your torque wrench on the upper one to wind the stud into place. Then unbind the nuts.

It's not a bad idea to use a trace of blue Loctite on the bottom threads.
UTC

Hooked
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UTC quote
diffuzion wrote:
thanks for the tip! tell me how do you screw the stud and unscrew it? with pliers or is there a special tool?
I used vice grips to get them out, cleaned the holes/threads, then used back-to-back nuts to get them in and tightened

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