Modern Vespa

I have the Crimaz anti-dive and am going to install it at the same time as I do the front shock. It may be a few days, but I'll definitely share my experience when I do.

I didn't think it changed the shock angle like that, though, but have never seen one before to know.

I think I'd try to shift the top of the shock back to keep them parallel if that's required.

pound to fit; paint to match.

I found some photos online, seems like some bikes have the slant, some don't.

I'm thinking if it's the fork length that's different??

And I'm thinking if it's straight, would it look weird, like it's too far away?

What's really weird is that it seems like you have more of an angle that in those pictures. Maybe it's the camera angle, but if that's the way it needs to be to work (it's changing the geometry, after all), then so be it.

Think it might be the angle in the photo.

Have some updated pics…


Don't think it's so prominent with this pic…

Got rid of the stock indicators (which I hate when I'm on the bike, but like the period feel) for something more minimal. (Thanks person on NSM who posted this… I managed to find them) they're actually from a Ferrari F360

Exhaust side… egig unisex

Maybe it's just because I looked at all those pictures with the anti-dive installed, but yours looks totally now!

I'm considering throwing on the pwk30 onto the engine.

You're using a 34? What jetting have to got at the moment? I know you're still dialing in…

I'm running a PWK 34 with, currently, 158 MJ, 45 Idle, KLK-3rd. It feels lean at lower throttle settings, so I already know I need to swap to a smaller diameter needle to start, plus I still need to find the splutter point for the main.

Might give the pwk a try, have one on the shelf.

This is my second Polini PWK34. It's solid quality, but half the price of a Keihin. If you need to upsize, I'd suggest you take a look at the Polini's.

Yoshi, quick question.

Do you know if I can install a primavera gearbox and output shaft on my 50 s2? I think it's an s2 it has 4 gears currently

Actually, even a Pk gearbox?

Just thinking about compatibility issues, if there are any.

I think I might need to replace my gearbox, it's was worn anyways, but I shimmed it, but something tells me the gear selector on it is wrong too.

Worn and wrong

Shifting from 1st into neutral is painful and it jumps from 2nd straight into 3rd often. There's false neutrals between 3rd and 4th

The 2 shafts are M14 threads? The primavera and the oddball?

Yep

Thanks! Good to know.

I think a sensible option would be to swap out the drive shaft.

But your photo gives me hope that I might take a gamble and figure out which selector it should be!

Stripping down the engine, managed to take a photo of the clutch cover and the areas ground down

As you can see, it's not a lot of metal.

I didn't have any fitment issues with mine. I was all ready to grind when I started, too.

Yeah, my rear wheel just didn't spin freely. The brake shoes weren't straight because the plate wasn't flush against the engine, so ended up scrapping on the drum regardless.

Just sharing the Egig 170 engine sound before taking everything apart to get to the gearbox… lol

And there is no way in hell you can split the cases with hammering and levering…

Pulling tool definitely needed.

That thing sounds great! Definitely deserves a proper gearbox.

Yeah doesn't help I can't get into neutral… lol…

I definitely think the gearbox tolerances are less forgiving than on a largeframe.

Maybe because of the primary and input shaft being on bearings? I don't know.

But after taking things apart and knowing more, things are definitely too loose… swapping all the old bearings out now. Not just the crankshaft ones

Yeah sounds ok, but I think it's a bit more clickity clackity than the Q engine on yours…

Install a NU204 on the flywheel side and splitting is easier...

I ended up getting a NU1005-XL-M1 instead… not installed it yet.

Any thoughts on NU1005-XL-M1 vs NU204?

Ah I think it's the wrong size for me… the NU1005 is for the 24/25 crank I think

The NU1005 is for using an ETS crank on older cases. The later cases with the 24/25 crank used a normal PX bearing. For a 19/20 or 20/20 crank you need a NU204...

Another run to the bearing shop……

Managed to swap the NU1005 for the 204.

Guy at the store was like "theyre totally different sizes…."

I was like "my bad… read the description wrong…"



New input shaft bearing too

Question to the floor: smaller pros again…

How do you shim a Christmas tree properly??

How will you know when it needs shimming?

I kinda know why you would need to, but I'm trying to think where I would look for rubbing…

It's rubbing on the cases up by the crankcase? you could either put a small washer on the shaft or get a 1mm taller bearing, I'd think, since you seem to have local access to bearings.

I'm thinking it'll rub on the cases and maybe on the clutch basket on the primary?

Have to be an assembly, check then dismantle? Glad I added the NU204 bearing all of a sudden

Empirical measurement is going to be king here, so your best bet is always going to be dry-fitting in situations like this.

Urgh… multiple assemblies…

Will have to give it a go.

Right, lesson learned again. Don't skimp on the gearbox when you inherit a bike… new assembled Pk gearbox is rock solid compared to the old one.

Which I found out was a weird mix. 14mm Primavera shaft, Pk gear selector with what I think is worn PK gears.

Super iffy shifts and way too much play. Even with a decent SIP shim.

Brought the fabbri Pk selector. @CM, if you get into the gear box, definitely recommended, see below


New "not going to be used" PK selector

Fabbri selector, the teeth are way more pointy. Shifts really crisp and doesn't jump past gears.

Super dig the "thundercat" logo

Slow progress with opening and closing the cases…

Making sure the bearings are all seating properly, spent nearly 3 hours looking for the Polini flywheel side seal which I managed to cleanly save when swapping in the NU204. But ended up giving up…

Everything seems to be spinning a lot smoother than the first time I built the engine… wonder if the primary and input shaft bearings were gone…?

Luckily I didn't need to shim the Christmas tree… had a scare when I closed the cases and could hear the kick start gear engaging when in shifted in gear… knocked the shaft towards the bearing and solved that. Seems it wasn't seared properly.

Will be doing a leak down test next.


Double checking the Pk shaft fits before installing into the crankcase

Clutch basket back in

Holding pressure well

Yasss!

You're going to be rolling in no time! Is there a first (re)start video yet?

Not yet…! But should be this week!

Feels like it's taking forever as things have been a pita.

Rear brake pads fouled with gear oil, brake cable and shifter cables are frayed (just from moving them around the crankcase). The exhaust fouling the cowl (don't know why… it's the same! maybe the exhaust has shifted position?)

But engine feels a lot more solid this time around, so kinda glad I'm going through the motions


Clutch cover on…

Does that intake thingy really go through the original opening on the frame?

Yup it does without any problems. Egig has a short video of the engine swinging down and clearing the frame.

Tested it, same deal. Should've taken a video for reference.

But…… intake did get scratched because my rear shock is barely working and bottomed out a few times.

Just finishing up last checks before starting it up.

Came to the sad realisation that I've only managed to save the gear shift mechanism (which only just survived, I'll be replacing it in the future for sure) and crankcase.

The rest is newly replaced… kinda sad wasn't able to save more.


Here's the new PK gearbox, which looks like a 1980's kids toy with the blister pack looking packaging. No matter, hopefully it'll help out. SDjohn was right. Smallie go fast parts are way cheaper than largeframe ones.

You might need a shock spacer. The SIP shock was shorter than the OG shock, but lucky for me I had a spacer on hand. All depends on which go-fast parts you're buying, I think. My Quattrini is the most expensive scooter part I've ever bought, hands down.

Yeah the average go fast parts are cheaper but if you're going for the cutting edge you will pay dearly.

Polini 136 with a decent pipe, maybe a better clutch but not the best, a DRT short 4th tree and you are golden for pretty cheap.