Modern Vespa

So whilst I wait to buy a disc kit, I got inspired to remove the anti-dive adaptor, and ended up buying a fork adaptor from Quarta and a fuel tank rubber seal (why didn't anyone make this before?? Would save the paint job)

Was looking at the CMD anti dive too… but shy'd away from it.

Just realised something.

I still have the 6v horn installed on a 12v harness.

Does it make a difference?

No, if the horn still gets AC power. Piaggio sells 6V horns for the 12V AC P2s…

Thanks! That's great to know

Yeah it gets ac power.

Was wondering if it would be the same as bulbs where you'd normally swap to 12v ones.

The AC horns are 6V/12V on SIP, so I've always assumed they'd work either way. They might even be loud enough to be worthwhile with 12V running through them.

Yeah it's still a duck squawk, but it is stock.

So kinda nice that way.

CM… it's on!!!

(Silver smallie is the egig 170)

https://youtube.com/shorts/2aLevRzhZx4

Other than the part where there's no sound....Yasssssss!

Urgh… why is there no audio??

Thought this was interesting.

The CHT sensor to be attached to the cylinder fins.

A nut welded on. Thinking about how the wire would be routed. Hole and grommet in the cowl?

Yeah, from EGIG's feedback on CHT sensors under the plug, apparently it's a bit inaccurate because the adaptor that screws in is so long, that its getting cooled by the time it reaches the wire. So it'll never be near the temp that's near the plug.

Still meaning to install one without using the SIP/Koso Speedo

Looks to me like someone just wants to measure the temperature of the very ends of the cooling fins....and that's on the intake side of the cylinder too, not the exhaust side of things. Seems like grasping for straws to me.

Not sure.

Screenshot was from EGIG's YouTube channel and the cylinder seems to be a different version (maybe earlier) because of the cowl holes.

Apparently a reading under 350F is good for this position.

Skeptical because it's so far away from the cylinder.

Seems handy because there's no danger of messing up cylinder heads.

The only way that screenshot's probe location would make sense to me is if the probe can reach all the way to the cylinder wall itself. And even then, it's not going to be a good measure because it's not capturing most of the heat of combustion.

It's called a Cylinder *Head* Temp gauge for a reason...

Nah, something tells me no sensor is touching the cylinder wall…

Actually that's a good point.

Would a cylinder wall reading be more beneficial than a cylinder head reading?

Granted I'm imagining the cylinder is doing to most expanding during a seize.

I don't think it would make sense, but don't have any actual evidence to back that up.

The head is a great big heat sink, plus it's the only part of the cylinder that's actually taking the force of the ignition directly (the other side is the piston), so it's going to be taking a lot of the heat.

The area above the exhaust port also takes a lot of heat, but I don't know if you could accurately measure that or, more importantly, do so in a timely manner. An EGT would do a much better job of tracking exhaust heat anyway.

(speaking of EGT's, I'm still trying to figure mine ut. Part of me is wondering if I'm just not running (able to run?) the motor hard enough for it to matter, in which case, I guess, "Yay, me?")

Back burner stuff… just happy to be riding around on the smallie.

With you on the "if I'm not pushing it hard enough and it survives, should be good enough"…

I don't think I'll end up installing any sensors short term. Kinda over trying to think of ways to install everything in a tiny space.

Have some pet peeves with the drum brake, throttle and suspension, that's enough to keep busy.

I add heat shrink tubing to my adapter that goes under plug to keep air from cooling it. I noticed it with my cast iron cylinder that gets to about 350°F and locks up.

Hi all,

Was wondering if anyone has any tips on removing and installing back on the spring on the clutch cover actuation arm?

I think removing I can do with a flat blade… but not so confident about getting it back on.

Actually a more relevant question would be, how do you make a crimaz cover arm start 90deg from the face of the plate? When it's shipped, it comes flat.

You can tweak it a little by adjusting the meshing of the teeth between the lever and the plunger.

On mine, once the slack is taken up on the clutch cable, it's about right on the adjustment, though.

α ρε σάφη... πάνω που έψαχνα να βρω τι τύπο ρουλεμάν χρειάζομαι. just saying that i was looking for the bearing type and this answer helped me

So I tried on the Parmakit engine clutch cover (which is the same crimaz..) and it doesn't seem to go very far…

Definitely not 90degrees like the screenshot below.

Mine is more like the screenshot once the slack in the cable is taken up.

Maybe your plunger isn't meshed far enough in? Try removing the plunger, then rotate the arm all the way forward and re-insert?

Yeah tried that, only could end up around 20deg.

So that's why I was thinking "maybe take the spring off"… but I'm like "does it make a difference???"

Nah, the spring just isn't that stiff.

Nah, I mean to remove it for positioning…

It's fairly easy to push it all the way to the end…

Some riding footage before the weather turned sour.

Had to slow down for the traffic camera. But engine was hardly trying.

Added a FRT throttle mechanism to the top of the VHSH, not sure it works properly yet (had to tilt the carb a few degrees to make sure it didn't foul on the fuel tap), will have to ride a bit more.

The carb with slight tilt works ok.

Not sure if I prefer the FRT throttle mech over the CMD. Does feel easier to open, there's less friction on the slide.

But changing jets might be a bitch to do though

Rides well though.

https://youtube.com/shorts/puW_MeCr5jE?feature=share

Getting a bit ridiculous with the EGIG now.

I'm not finding things to do… honest…

I just keep seeing these parts which kinda look like a good idea.

Maybe it's the placebo effect, but I feel like the throttle response is pretty good after installing it. Sounds smoother and less "bubbly".

Yeah, slight update on trying stuff out.

1. Air leak through the top of the FRT throttle mech. Through the hole at the top where the short cable comes out (did think about some sort of accordion rubber grommet). Idle was unstable at traffic lights. Sad to see it go, miss the super quick throttle action on top of the MRP short throttle.

CMD snakehead is back… reliable.

2. Removed the malossi fuel filter… restricted fuel flow. Not sure if it's because it's on its side, so it just created a cavity of air to appear and slowed the flow of fuel… tried priming it by pumping fuel in by squeezing the fuel hose. Air would come back after about a Km. Having the tank full helped, but I wasn't a fan of refuelling after half tank.

Night and day difference without the filter. Not sure if anyone has got it to work on a fuel demanding carb.

The filter did work and catch a bunch of rust. Disappointed I had to remove it.

Those malossi filters are awful. I too have one in my drawer of junk. Same issue. Use a bigger car type filter. Just a plastic cheap one of eBay will do. Bigger volume is no restriction.

Sure that quick throttle is that bad an airleak? Can't hide it with a bigger pilot jet?

Definitely an air leak. Tried making the air mix screw richer, the upped the jet 1 size.

Tested it over 6days. Riding 4kms a day.

Exactly the same, rides good, but coming down from a 3/4 open throttle sprint to a traffic light, high revving. Then just riding around, nothing more than half throttle, and it would be high revving.

Of course with the bigger idle jet, it just ran terrible.

Swapped it over to the CMD, nothing else changed, literally nothing (no turning of the idle screw or air mix screw). And the riding over the next 2 days totally stabilised.

It's funny, I used a fuel filter from one of my vintage Hondas, with the orange/yellow filter and it was worse for me. That's why I changed to the malossi. Works if you don't hammer it.

Is there another filter in the carb?

There must be some part missing from the FRT throttle. They must work somehow.

Yeah there's a small filter in the carb, doesn't do much though, float bowl was still dirty with rusty bits. Granted they're not big bits, but the malossi filter helped out. Shame it doesn't work.

Nah, all the parts are there. In all honesty, the FRT mechanism is for racing… so if it's revving higher at traffic lights I think it's forgivable…

That is one delicious looking motor

Yes amigo, yes…

DEA engineering…

Just look at those insane ports…

Didn't realise you had a real carburetor. Can take a while to set up the pilot jetting on that.
A cut down rubber outer boot will help enough. I have the same on all my big dellortos.

What are the main atomiser, pilot jet and pilot atomiser in there now?

It's just a VHSH 30, but good enough for fuel economy. Any bigger and I'll be refuelling more than riding…

DQ266, k98 needle, clip second from the top, B42, 60 pilot.

VHSH is a great carb, many argue the best 30 ever made.

First thoughts; a K98 won't have the guts for a higher performance 170cc. K98 is stock on 125 go-karts.
What other needles and main atomisers do you have?

60IJ is fine but B42 is too small. B48 would be a good place to start.

So tried jetting with the following jets:

B40, 42, 44, 46, 48 (all with the 60ij, I did try the 62, totally didn't work. No idle at all)
DQ262, 264, 265, 266, 267, 268
Main 145 - 180 (13 jets)

Tried 70% of combinations, going from 180 all the way down, (some weren't even worth testing, like 180 main DQ268. I just jumped to 168, because it was so rich).

With DQ264, 265, 266. I tried all combinations also with 4 clip positions, just as a process of elimination. Then there's nothing that can be second guessed.

Majority of the time was getting it to idle properly after hitting WOT that ran super fast. Wheelies of course needed or I'm not getting proper torque.

Must've been 2-3months of just riding around… everyday when it didn't rain. I think there was 5-6 days I'd be doing it for about 8 hours a day.

Messed around with the fuel filter and throttle after I'd landed on the jetting. The exhaust did get soaked on the inside for the majority of the time, but it's kinda quietened down, could probably do with new fibreglass wool on the inside now.

It runs great at the moment.

Wheelies in 1st and 2nd. Does 110km/h gps without breaking a sweat.

Accelerates up 2:1 gradients, no over heating. No stalling, stable idle.