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Jack221 wrote:
You cannot jet these with the carb cover off
It runs totally shite with cover on. I have no option. Uploading some videos now. Please take a look.
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It's quite apparent that I am shit at rebuilding engines. Would anyone be willing to rebuilt it for me if I pay for all parts and decent labour charges? I really want this thing running. I can possibly drop off the engine as I travel a lot. Please? No rush either.
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All these videos are with 20/20 carb as 24/24 just wont work well.
⚠️ Last edited by roody76 on UTC; edited 1 time
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Runs shit with carb lid on. Usually stalls. Mixture screw fully in. If I turn it out even just one turn with lid on then it stalls.
⚠️ Last edited by roody76 on UTC; edited 1 time
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130 main jet fitted. Still very smokey with 120 fitted. I think it's buring oil again as it smells weird.
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What do you think?
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If I can work out why the carb lid is affecting idle so much then that's a start and I think the cause of some of the tuning issues. Also putting carb lid on almost stalls bike. Explain that one.
⚠️ Last edited by roody76 on UTC; edited 1 time
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From your video, and if the fuel mix screw is all the way in, I'm guessing you have an air leak somewhere…

Probably at the carb base…

That would explain the huge main jet and tons of smoke and the ability to still be able to run.

And seems like you're collecting fuel/oil because of your weird jetting

If you changes jets and nothing changes, you have an external factor affecting what's going on.

It's best to do a leak down test (which isn't carb cleaner/wd40 sprayed around because you can't track down clutch side seal leaks with that…)

You'll be going round in circles if the basics aren't covered.
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Surely and air leak would raise the revs not reduce them at idle. Also mixture screw in is lean so that does not make sense either. I don't think it's an air leak but I will check. Leak down test was good before engine install into bike.
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Not necessarily the case an air leak would just cause revs to rise.

I wouldn't rule it out, you don't have many other things to look into at this point, you'll need to cover all bases

How are you doing the leak down test?
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Blocking inlet off with rubber strip under carb. Then bike inner tube and blood pressure pump with gauge. Holds 240mmg for over 5 mins.
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Gear oil coming up through the shaft. Maybe this is what's burning.
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What inner tube you using mate??? Lol

240? Should explode… and expand to be huge… especially if the tube isn't a loop around from the carb to the exhaust
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108 wrote:
What inner tube you using mate??? Lol

240? Should explode… and expand to be huge… especially if the tube isn't a loop around from the carb to the exhaust
LOL. It does swell up in places but holds the pressure according to the gauge.
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Are these the correct carb and base gaskets?
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Tub doesn't look to be sealing…
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I have managed to get it running with the vortex and lid fitted, although when I go into gear it wants to stall. 132 main fitted with 120/BE4. I think I will sell it but be honest that it needs some work doing to it with regards to jetting etc.

If it sells I will buy another standard bike if possible or one that is lightly tuned, say a 177 kit fitted.

This bike is too much for me to setup and quite frankly I am a bit sick of it.
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Wish I could buy it off you.

I'll be back in the uk Dec if it can wait
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108 wrote:
Wish I could buy it off you.

I'll be back in the uk Dec if it can wait
It's on ebay now. Just been out for a quick ride bit rich and when you wind it on, it bogs down and accelerates slowly until about 4k then it takes off. At least it works, but for how long. Might still be for sale in Dec.
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SaFiS wrote:
Tub doesn't look to be sealing…
That must have been the oil it was burning because it is not doing it anymore I have taken a look and replaced the gasket. Would gear oil make the engine run crap and not idle well?
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Just been out for an hours ride. All appears well. Do you reckon it's worth fitting the 24/24 carb and trying that again? Max running temp of 130 C when cruising. A bit less when giving it the beans.
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Can somebody confirm that when running with autolube I should add another 1% in the tank to give 3% overall? Runs well. 132 main was a bit spluttery. Changed to a 128 and its got rid of the splutter and feels more peaky. Only issue is when pulling away from idle it's a bit hit and miss. Sometimes it wants to stall but the idle screw ias all the way in. Ticks over at 1500 with idle screw fully home. Mixture screw is 2.5 turns out. Bike still runs with mixture screw all the way in but revs higher. Weird. I have a 55/160 idle fitted. Could this be too rich if it runs with idle screw fully in?
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With the 24/24 carb fitted, I can't get it to big down. Started with a 160/BE3/132. Changed main to a 145 and it did not feel or sound any different. That's a big change but didn't affect it. Am I missing something? No vortex fitted at the moment. With the 20/20 carb fitted and using 120/BE4/132, bogs down and splutters. Must be an issue with the 24/24 carb somewhere. When in neutral, what should be the max revs at wot?
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Put the 20/20 jets in the 24/24
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Jack221 wrote:
Put the 20/20 jets in the 24/24
OK I will give that a go tomorrow. The only reason I used the 160/BE3 is because some vespa expert said that it what is used on every 177 to 225 kit. Fuck knows.
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roody76 wrote:
OK I will give that a go tomorrow. The only reason I used the 160/BE3 is because some vespa expert said that it what is used on every 177 to 225 kit. Fuck knows.
And what do you think after the 145mj experience?
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Jack221 wrote:
And what do you think after the 145mj experience?
No noticeable difference between 135 and 145 main on the 24/24. However, it's much more lively than the 20/20. I wonder if I have not drilled that 2.5mm hole deep enough causing a bottleneck. I am using the Pinasco chamber cover and Fast Flow 2 Tap. It was never hesitant throughout the rev range and did not feel nor sound lean. In fact the plug colour is quite dark.
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Jack221 wrote:
Put the 20/20 jets in the 24/24
So running it on 120/BE3/132, 55/160 (slightly lean at 5 turns out), carb cover on and using snorkle.

When revving from idle, peaks at around 8000 rpm. Splutters and loads of smoke. Good. I will work my way down from there. Will be better once I have had a quick ride to check for it bogging down etc.

Hopefully, after all of this, I am almost there. Still undecided on whether to fit the vortex or not.

Thanks.
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Change the BE3 to BE4 before going too far
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Jack221 wrote:
Change the BE3 to BE4 before going too far
Sorry, I have the BE4 fitted. My bad. Waiting for my new idle jets to arrive. Start with a 58/160 I think.
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Jack221 wrote:
Change the BE3 to BE4 before going too far
Should I continue to add 1% oil to the tank even though the kit is now run in? Thanks.
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Hang in there dude. I am also a member of the shitty engine builders club. I have made some really bone headed mistakes in spite of many years of wrenching on other engines. I think you have to be a shitty engine builder for awhile before you are a good one. Looks like you are getting there.
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orwell84 wrote:
Hang in there dude. I am also a member of the shitty engine builders club. I have made some really bone headed mistakes in spite of many years of wrenching on other engines. I think you have to be a shitty engine builder for awhile before you are a good one. Looks like you are getting there.
Lol. Hopefully I am there and can ride this thing without worrying about WOT. What is a safe max engine temp to look out for? I have been told different values. One figure was anything under 250c is ok for CHT. Hottest mine has been so far is around 170 going up hill in 4th.
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roody76 wrote:
Should I continue to add 1% oil to the tank even though the kit is now run in? Thanks.
I only put extra oil in for the first tank.

AC120 BE4 vortex, carb lid and bellows fitted, or you're just riding around for fun.
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Jack221 wrote:
I only put extra oil in for the first tank.

AC120 BE4 vortex, carb lid and bellows fitted, or you're just riding around for fun.
In that case, I shall also fit the vortex and jet up as needed.
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Jack221 wrote:
I only put extra oil in for the first tank.

AC120 BE4 vortex, carb lid and bellows fitted, or you're just riding around for fun.
I don't have the 200cc oil pump so is it worth adding a bit?
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roody76 wrote:
I don't have the 200cc oil pump so is it worth adding a bit?
In that case, it's a tough call. Your kit will rev about 2000 rpm more than the 150 but still less oil than the 200 pump would. Too much oil will cause issues too.
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Jack221 wrote:
In that case, it's a tough call. Your kit will rev about 2000 rpm more than the 150 but still less oil than the 200 pump would. Too much oil will cause issues too.
Fuck it. I will add bit more. Maybe 0.5% just to be awkward. What about temps?
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Can somebody give me an idea on safe engine temps measured using a cht gauge? Cruising using 1/4 to 1/2 throttle the temps go up to 160 to 170 degrees C. Wot it seems to drop a bit but not much. I don't want to melt it again. Thanks.
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roody76 wrote:
Can somebody give me an idea on safe engine temps measured using a cht gauge? Cruising using 1/4 to 1/2 throttle the temps go up to 160 to 170 degrees C. Wot it seems to drop a bit but not much. I don't want to melt it again. Thanks.
I like to see about 177°C max, I've seen 185°C but don't like it.

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