Modern Vespa

Hi all. 2002 Vespa et4 150.

I have the rear back tire removed (and exhaust) and had someone fix the stem valve.

My questions :

I need to replace the rear brake cable. It doesn't come in until Friday. Is it "easier" if I leave rear wheel off etc to do the rear cable? Or it doesn't matter.

Also while I have the rear tire off, should I grease anything inside of the axle or wheel back there?

Thanks again. Appreciate it.

Change rear hub oil if you have not done it yet

It isn't necessary to have the rear wheel off to change the brake cable. I don't think it makes a difference either way as the cable attaches to a bracket on the belt cover on the left side of the bike anyway. BUT it is so much easier to change the trans oil with the wheel off.

I changed my trans oil using a syringe (designed for oil changes). I sucked it out through the filler hole (YMMV).

Thing is you'll have to check the level beforehand, to ensure it's at the right level (ish) to start with - then measure how much you get out with the syringe (just to make sure you get most of it out - ie with mine, it was close enough to 85ml IIRC, so I felt happy that most of it was out).

I have also used a syringe but I like to take the plug out and check for metal particles

While the wheel is off, a thin coating of copper anti-seize paste on the axle splines will help make your next tire change easier. Use a small amount on the exhaust studs, too.

As for your rear brake cable, it's more of a process of removing the plastics- headlight, legshield, and floorboard for access. Not so much the wheel.

Agreed. They can be a pain to remove. Copper slip is wonderful stuff.

Not saying that I'm correct (or that my method is better), but I used thread-lock on the exhaust bolts & studs (my theory being it'll hold them firmly in place, but won't let water/salt in over time preventing a seizure. The blue stuff (medium, which is 20-40nm IIRC?).

My exhaust bolts were absolutely seized solid due to corrosion, and I had to borrow a 100nm rattle gun to get them out (risky, because the heads are only 6mm hex). Nothing broke thankfully, but a long bar would certainly have ended play very abruptly and left a mess to drill out of the case!

I don't think the hub oil change is all that difficult as long as you use a tinfoil ramp to guide the oil down, and loosen the plug by reaching through the rear wheel. Once it's drained and the plug replaced, the replacement amount is 100cc. Job done.

I also made a oil slide out of a plastic milk jug and stapled 2 parts together.Works perfect with no hub oil on wheel or tire.