OP
UTC

Enthusiast
ET2 MP3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 81
Location: ND
 
Enthusiast
ET2 MP3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 81
Location: ND
UTC quote
So I ended up with a cylinder seal breaking and making quite the mess of brake fluid. Since the scoot is 20 years old, decided to replaced all the front brake bits (rotor and caliper). The new caliper, from Scooterwest, does come with new pads pre-installed.

This is the first time I've done a disc brake replacement before. Is there anything I should do to prep the rotor for the caliper?

My thoughts on the steps

1. Drain all the old fluid that is left
2. Pull off the old caliper
3. Pull off the old rotor
4. Bolt on new rotor (any specific torque setting?)
5. Install new caliper.
6. Flush new fluid through the system and top off.

I've heard of sometimes shims need to be used. Don't know what that means how I would know I need this?

Thanks!
@jixaw avatar
UTC

Hooked
2003 Vespa ET2
Joined: UTC
Posts: 449
Location: Cambridge, MA
 
Hooked
@jixaw avatar
2003 Vespa ET2
Joined: UTC
Posts: 449
Location: Cambridge, MA
UTC quote
these steps look good to me

dont forget to fully compress the pistons on the new caliper before installing
@oscarsass avatar
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 434
 
Hooked
@oscarsass avatar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 434
UTC quote
phlegmer wrote:
So I ended up with a cylinder seal breaking and making quite the mess of brake fluid. Since the scoot is 20 years old, decided to replaced all the front brake bits (rotor and caliper). The new caliper, from Scooterwest, does come with new pads pre-installed.

This is the first time I've done a disc brake replacement before. Is there anything I should do to prep the rotor for the caliper?

My thoughts on the steps

1. Drain all the old fluid that is left
2. Pull off the old caliper
3. Pull off the old rotor
4. Bolt on new rotor (any specific torque setting?)
5. Install new caliper.
6. Flush new fluid through the system and top off.

I've heard of sometimes shims need to be used. Don't know what that means how I would know I need this?

Thanks!
Number 3 specifically: Swear lots as you try to get the front hub off. Hope you've got a good mallet.

While you're in there, you may as well re-grease everything (cleaning the old grease off is optional). If there's the original factory grease in there, you'll see a white/yellow goo that's not really lubricating anything.

Number 4: 5 to 6.5 nm. It's a stainless steel bolt going into an aluminium hub, so not too tight. Blue threadlock (loctite 242) for security. EDIT - make sure you spray the new rotor with brake cleaner (they often come with an oil coating, to prevent corrosion in storage). Give it a thorough degreasing else your new pads can get contaminated.

Number 5: 20 to 25 nm. Again, steel into alu (I think), but a lot bigger this time. Again thread lock it.

Number 6: Maybe flush fluid through the old one first… you don't want any nasties in your new caliper. Mine was super cruddy (but it had been off the road for 11 years). New copper/crush washers for your banjo bolts. Make sure the banjo bolt is nice and clean before you install.

RE the shims/washers: I hope I've not led you down the garden path - either the washers (the thicker ones) were on the wrong/front side of the carrier (backstreet garage worked on it at some point), or my new caliper needed those washers on the rear side of the hub carrier thingy due to being a different part that superseded the original. The diagrams aren't clear to me, so I just made sure it cleared the disc equally on both sides (with no pads installed).

Just realised the workshop manual is here, wish I'd spotted it earlier:
https://manuals.wotmeworry.org.uk/Vespa/ET2/Vespa%20Service%20Manual%20ET2%2050cc.pdf
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