OP
UTC

Addicted
Rally 180, li150, P125, p200, p200, p200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 650
Location: Va
 
Addicted
Rally 180, li150, P125, p200, p200, p200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 650
Location: Va
UTC quote
Here's the skinny. I'm a mechanical guy. I can get electric stuff figured out in most cases, but the internet has tossed way too many options at me when trying to search out the answer to my issue.

The machine: 1979 P125 with a 150 5 port jug swap, rejetted, s(h)ito exhaust, bitubo shocks. Still points, still has battery. GPS verified to 62mph.....but it is happy at 45-50.

The problem: I can't ride the damned thing more than a couple hundred miles before the battery is DONE. like really done. As in won't even recharge done. I have yet to determine if there is some sort of parasitic draw when shut down, but it will kill a freshly installed battery on a weekend ride, which tells me that there isn't any juice getting from the stator to the batterty when running down the road. What should I be testing for and where?

Solutions? Batteries are now 80 buck or more around me. I've given up on replacing them and now only ride in day light with hand signals. Batteryless conversion? I don't really care about signals, but would like a tail/stop light for early morning trips into work.
@scooterist avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
71' Sprint Veloce , 05' Vespa PX150, 1978 P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1558
Location: Tucson, AZ
 
Molto Verboso
@scooterist avatar
71' Sprint Veloce , 05' Vespa PX150, 1978 P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1558
Location: Tucson, AZ
UTC quote
Save your time and headache. There is not a single P series in the world that wouldn't drain the battery. Part has to do with the size of the battery and YES, they all have parasitic loss.

All of my scooters ruined my batteries, no exceptions. The only realistic solution is to disconnect the battery terminal or to put a trickle charger.

Even when you do what i am doing and assuming your stator charges well and all of that these batteries last 2 years if you are lucky. By the way, you are correct, these batteries gets ruined so fast that it appears that you can't even recover them anymore once the go so low in voltage. I personally go to the PITA steps of having to remove the terminals.
@scooterist avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
71' Sprint Veloce , 05' Vespa PX150, 1978 P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1558
Location: Tucson, AZ
 
Molto Verboso
@scooterist avatar
71' Sprint Veloce , 05' Vespa PX150, 1978 P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1558
Location: Tucson, AZ
UTC quote
The batteryless conversion works "OK", you will always have a weak horn. The electricity produced is adequate, the lights typically dim a bit at idle. I got a new stator on my sprint Veloce and it works just fine, I use hand signals.


Sometimes run my PX150 without battery but the horn doesn't work, the high beam doesn't work and you can't shut-off the engine using the red switch. The lights are a bit weaker. on the P200E the horn is unusable and all the lights are weak. You canmake them bright by reving the engine.

I totally understand your frustration, I have been there so many times and is not just me, it is everyone on this forum.
OP
UTC

Addicted
Rally 180, li150, P125, p200, p200, p200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 650
Location: Va
 
Addicted
Rally 180, li150, P125, p200, p200, p200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 650
Location: Va
UTC quote
scooterist wrote:
Even when you do what i am doing and assuming your stator charges well and all of that these batteries last 2 years if you are lucky.
Yeah, see where you are coming from, but a fresh battery being rendered useless in a DAY while riding seems like I should be digging into things. Might be time to look at a non-batt conversion?
@scooterist avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
71' Sprint Veloce , 05' Vespa PX150, 1978 P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1558
Location: Tucson, AZ
 
Molto Verboso
@scooterist avatar
71' Sprint Veloce , 05' Vespa PX150, 1978 P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1558
Location: Tucson, AZ
UTC quote
Davetopay wrote:
Yeah, see where you are coming from, but a fresh battery being rendered useless in a DAY while riding seems like I should be digging into things. Might be time to look at a non-batt conversion?
You probably have a circuit draining or something shorted too.
@rowdyc avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1346
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
 
Molto Verboso
@rowdyc avatar
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1346
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
UTC quote
Probably a bad regulator or a bad stator if battery is ok.
To check use a mutimeter to measure stator voltage and battery charging voltage at the regulator side while idling and revving motor. Make sure battery is good and fully charged. If battery is not up to snuff, checking the wires at the regulator don't mean anything.

The two yellow wires coming from the stator and plugged into the two "G" slots on the regulator should have around AC 13.8v or higher. These are the volts to charge the battery. If less then around AC 13.8v unplug and check AC volts on wires. If the volts stays low the stator maybe bad and not producing enough volts. If volts goes up there maybe a bad ground on battery side.
The pink wire in slot "B+" goes to battery and I think its for a sensor to tell the regulator battery condition so it knows how much volts it needs to charge.
Purple wire in slot "C" is the charging wire. Check for around 13.8v DC. If you have lower while revving, regulator is prob bad. That regulator is not made anymore but there is an alternative.

Good luck!
OP
UTC

Addicted
Rally 180, li150, P125, p200, p200, p200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 650
Location: Va
 
Addicted
Rally 180, li150, P125, p200, p200, p200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 650
Location: Va
UTC quote
rowdyc wrote:
Probably a bad regulator or a bad stator if battery is ok.
To check use a mutimeter to measure stator voltage and battery charging voltage at the regulator side while idling and revving motor. Make sure battery is good and fully charged. If battery is not up to snuff, checking the wires at the regulator don't mean anything.

The two yellow wires coming from the stator and plugged into the two "G" slots on the regulator should have around AC 13.8v or higher. These are the volts to charge the battery. If less then around AC 13.8v unplug and check AC volts on wires. If the volts stays low the stator maybe bad and not producing enough volts. If volts goes up there maybe a bad ground on battery side.
The pink wire in slot "B+" goes to battery and I think its for a sensor to tell the regulator battery condition so it knows how much volts it needs to charge.
Purple wire in slot "C" is the charging wire. Check for around 13.8v DC. If you have lower while revving, regulator is prob bad. That regulator is not made anymore but there is an alternative.

Good luck!
THIS was the info I need. I'll have to dig into this and see what's hurt. THANKS!
@ray8 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1893
Location: Los Angeles
 
Molto Verboso
@ray8 avatar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1893
Location: Los Angeles
UTC quote
Wires in good shape?
If you plan to use it as a daily rider this upgrade will make you much happier:
https://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Electronic-Ignition-Kits/51007RD0_2

You can ride without a battery if you're okay with a flickering headlight at idle.
Matt at SM helped me a lot on a few details. You'll need to back-feed one of the yellows via the purple wire (before connected to C) for DC at the headlight, controlled by the switch. This can also be done at the headset, but that wire is just sitting there anyway.

If your wiring is solid enough it's PNP.
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