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2004 PX150E
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Location: Brooklyn NY
 
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Moto64 wrote:
The cush springs are often over-looked. They were by me, anyway.
They are under compression the entire time the motor is driving the wheel or the wheel is driving the motor. They can only take so much of that and lose tension. Sometimes they break into pieces because they become just coils of wire and get smashed around (you can hear them rattle) and sometimes they are still intact but the tension is gone.
The rivets are 3mm.
Thanks! This would probably help explain the heavy clunk I always had when shifting into first gear, lol.
I got a cush drive rebuild kit from scootermercato in my cart. Going to pull the trigger by sunday.
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Cleaned some parts last night

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And got to work on this stuck exhaust bolt. The thing won't budge at all. Multiple heat cycles with a map gas torch, tried heating the case and spraying the bolt with an upside down compressed air cannister to freeze it. No dice.

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Ground some flats on the threads to see if I could twist it loose, no dice

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Started to drill it out but I can't get parallel and centered with the drill because it's too long and fouls on the hub/brake drum pivots.

Also pulled the cush drive out.

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To do list and to buy list keeps growing! Nearly certain I'll be pulling the trigger down the road on the malossi cast iron 177cc kit and pairing with a sip road 2.0 box
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dropping the cases off at Scooter Bottega to get the bearings replaced tomorrow. Moving right along here! Spent some time cleaning the cases earlier today but still have a long way to go. Hoping the shop can run em through a parts cleaner if they have one.

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Cases got dropped at the shop last night! Getting new bearings and seals pressed in and hopefully they can pop that seized exhaust bolt out.
Parts are on order and I can't wait to start putting this all back together.

I'm seeing a few of people running a 20/20 carb with the malossi 177 cast iron cylinder. Would it be better to bite the bullet and get a 24/24 or can I get it tuned just fine with the carb I have?
@roland87 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
'13 LML Star 200, '81 50 Special, '81 P 150 X, '87 PK 50 Nuova, '84 PK 50 S
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Molto Verboso
@roland87 avatar
'13 LML Star 200, '81 50 Special, '81 P 150 X, '87 PK 50 Nuova, '84 PK 50 S
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Location: Ukraine. Kyiv.
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For sure you can tune 20/20 but with 24/24 it will give you more fun.
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Got the cases back from the shop with new bearings and a mazzuchelli crank pressed in! The owner of Scooter Bottega confirmed this is a 2005 vespa as the green was an anniversary color specific to 2005. Glad that my original guess (and the sellers) was correct and I won't have to fudge my registration.

After about 3 hours of drilling, heating, hammering I finally got the seized exhaust bolt out

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Rebuilt the cush drive as well

taken apart

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back together

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Malossi 177cc kit, 24/24 carb and hopefully the last other bits are on order from mercato. Very very excited to get this thing back together! If anyone has a jetting baseline to start, that would be great to share. The full setup will be:

24/24 carb
malossi 177cc iron cyl kit
sip road 2.0 box

I'm planning on doing a mild port match, nothing crazy though. Just want to make sure the majority of the holes are lined up relatively well. I also found a glass medicine cabinet shelf on the sidewalk yesterday, so I'm going to use it to level the surfaces of the carb and carb box lol. Don't want to be chasing air leaks all the time.
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Feels like I'm shouting into the void here but still going to keep updating

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Cases are almost ready to be back together! Did a very mild port patch with the malossi cylinder last night. Was going to bolt the cases back together tonight but the kickstart gear doesn't engage enough for my liking and I can see a fair bit of wear on the teeth. So I'm waiting on a new gear from mercato and then I can get these back together and throw the engine into the frame!

Also the jetting I'm starting with is the following:

Main 122
Pilot 50-120
BE4 atomizer

with the following setup:
24/24 carb
malossi iron 177cc with mild port match to cases
sip road 2.0
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Ossessionato
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Ossessionato
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Always one little part to wait for right when everything is ready to go back together. Good that you are replacing it if doesn't pass muster. Great progress!
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Molto Verboso
2006 LX150 (carbed) | 2007 GT200
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Molto Verboso
@berto avatar
2006 LX150 (carbed) | 2007 GT200
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Thanks for posting! I'm enjoying the well documented progress!
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Thanks guys!

Managed to sneak out for a little bit today-I'm taking advantage of the easier access to replace all the cables as well. Busted housings and frayed ends make any adjustment feel halfass considering the cost of new cables.

Helped to take the horn cover off and guide the new clutch cable housing into the right tunnel

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and remove the foot brake pedal to continue feeding it into the right spot

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Also replaced the foot brake cable, but need to clean that assembly up and scrub the underside of the scoot while I'm down there in a few days.

Anyone have any tips for a leaky oil tank? Theres blue oil everywhere inside this thing. on the plus side it s a rust proofer but also a gunk builder
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Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
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Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
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the_worm wrote:
After about 3 hours of drilling, heating, hammering I finally got the seized exhaust bolt out
Note for the readers. On this model the exhaust bolt is zinc plated from the factory. They don't seize. This one has seized because someone thought it would be even better with copper grease on it. When copper gets wet it reacts with the aluminium, actually causing the corrosion they thought it would prevent.
Otherwise, great work, carry on.
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Jack221 wrote:
Note for the readers. On this model the exhaust bolt is zinc plated from the factory. They don't seize. This one has seized because someone thought it would be even better with copper grease on it. When copper gets wet it reacts with the aluminium, actually causing the corrosion they thought it would prevent.
Otherwise, great work, carry on.
could also be because this thing was definitely half submerged in the water at some point lol

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you can see the water line in these pics

clutch cables were a pain
Fed em down through the top

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until they spat out the bottom

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took the grommet out

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Squeezed em through and fed the hose and grommet back over the housings

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Current state of affairs:

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Last bits are en route from mercato-hoping for first kick this weekend. Those in the northeast understand my haste here with our first 65 degree day+daylight savings time

anyone got any tips for the throttle cable? Looks like its gonna be really fiddly to feed through
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Managed to get the throttle cable pulled through with no issue!

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Cleaned off both housing ends and clipped the barrel off the end of the old cable, taped the new cable housing to the old housing and fed the new housing in from the top, while pulling the old housing out of the back where it exits the frame

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Panicked when it got hard to pull through and was worried the tape wouldn't hold but it all stayed together. All in all took about 15 minutes.

Going to not bother with the front brake cable because the cable looks just fine for now. So that wraps up new cables.

Mercato package comes tomorrow and I can get the cases buttoned up and everything all back together this weekend. Need to also deal with a leaky oil tank because I don't want this thing seeping all over or at all if I can help it. Got a fresh tube of hondabond ready to go, lol.
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Engine is in!

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used a castle nut for the clutch this time to be able to lock it in pace with that cage

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heres the old kickstart gear:

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and the new one:

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Not a ton of extra engagement on the teeth if any, but at least some peace of mind I guess.

twisted off a barrel adjuster on the gear selector while trying to back it out to put a new one in. Just plinked right off

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luckily I have some of the taps from my bike frame fabrication days (shameless plug: faster.mfg on instagram if anyones curious)

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how it's sitting today ^ Hoping a friend of mine is bringing by a timing light as I just slapped the stator in the spot where it originally was in the hopes that it'll be fine, but I'd really like to dial this in as best as I can.

Need to pull the tank back out as the gas line is bound up somewhere and can't reach the carb anymore, and when I tested the clutch cable it just pulled out so the internal retaining clip must have fallen off or something. Once those things are fixed I can get back to plugging things in and tightening screws.

Hoping for first kick attempt this evening
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Lil bit of this

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And it started up second kick!


Whipped up a quick screwdriver attachment on the 3d printer to reach around the starter and adjust the idle mixture screw on the carb:

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If anyone wants one of these I can print a million and will just charge the cost of postage. They attach to a 1/4" bit driver like this one:

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Ordered a timing light to make sure this things all timed right, it currently sounds pretty good but I want to just double check

Also painted the carb and flywheel covers:

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It was very quick to adjust the idle properly - makes me feel a little better about how much of an inconsistent pain the previous engine was to get running right. Lots of loose bearings and stuff makes for a moving target I guess.


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Going to start tuning the carb this week starting with this setup:

NGK BR7HS spark plug
Main 120
Pilot 50-120
BE4 atomizer

24/24 carb
malossi iron 177cc with mild port match to cases
sip road 2.0


Really need to give this thing a good scrub down. It'll be the first time its back on the street/sidewalk in a looong while (I think at least 6 months?). There are 4 steps to get up to the level of my building so I have to throw a 2x6 down as a makeshift ramp to get it in and out of the backyard. It's a major pain to take it out and I want to figure out a way to lock it up on the street with some confidence. I'm thinking about a front disc for this thing - not for performance but so that I can use a disc lock and lock it up on the street.
@108 avatar
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Ossessionato
V range 50s
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Ossessionato
@108 avatar
V range 50s
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UTC quote
the_worm wrote:
Whipped up a quick screwdriver attachment on the 3d printer to reach around the starter and adjust the idle mixture screw on the carb:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

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I'll buy one from you. Looks useful, always a pain adjusting that screw…

PM'd you
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Location: Brooklyn NY
 
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2004 PX150E
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UTC quote
108 wrote:
I'll buy one from you. Looks useful, always a pain adjusting that screw…

PM'd you
In the middle up upgrading the printer but should be able to get these out early next week.

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Took it on it's maiden voyage to a friends shop. The blue scooter is his "race" bike -
malossi 177+sip road 2+20mm carb+lightweight flywheel+quick throttle and it's super fun to brap around on. The white scooter is just a clean stock p200.

Next order of business is a good wash (still) and restoring the seat. I think I'll take all the foam off and reshape the whole thing, but it'll be a bit before then I think. Plenty of other projects moving to the front of the line. Still haven't done a plug chop but it idles so well and I haven't felt or heard anything other than smooth revs so I don't feel like I need to check immediately. I wish these had an rpm gauge.
@safis avatar
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Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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Posts: 4161
Location: Veria, Greece
 
Ossessionato
@safis avatar
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4161
Location: Veria, Greece
UTC quote
the_worm wrote:
used a castle nut for the clutch this time to be able to lock it in pace with that cage

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
A Cosa type clutch requires a different type nut…

Option A is a wavy lock washer with a nut and option B is a pinched type lock nut (replaceable every time)…

Wavy lock washer
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/locking-washer-clutch-cosa-2-m12-mm-o-13x24-mm-th-1-2mm_69820000

Nut that goes with the washer
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/nut-m12x1-5-mm-clutch-cosa-2_21214100

Pinched type lock nut
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/nut-m12-mm-hexagonal-clutch-cosa-2-piaggio_87263000
Wavy washer
Wavy washer
Plain Nut
Plain Nut
Pinched type nut
Pinched type nut
OP
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Member
2004 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 44
Location: Brooklyn NY
 
Member
2004 PX150E
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Posts: 44
Location: Brooklyn NY
UTC quote
SaFiS wrote:
A Cosa type clutch requires a different type nut…

Option A is a wavy lock washer with a nut and option B is a pinched type lock nut (replaceable every time)…

Wavy lock washer
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/locking-washer-clutch-cosa-2-m12-mm-o-13x24-mm-th-1-2mm_69820000

Nut that goes with the washer
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/nut-m12x1-5-mm-clutch-cosa-2_21214100

Pinched type lock nut
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/nut-m12-mm-hexagonal-clutch-cosa-2-piaggio_87263000
ahh - I can swap back for the previous setup I had (wavy washer+nut). Is there a special reason the castlenut is a bad idea? so far I haven't had any issues...
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